Car throttles on its own in drive and in park
#1
Car throttles on its own in drive and in park
I am writing in hopes to get information regarding repairs needed for my car. It is a 2003 acura tl. The problem I am having is, I went over a big puddle and the car basically just died in the middle of driving yesterday. I figure water got into the CAI because the wheel well was removed and the CAI filter sits low. So I waited 20 minutes and started it a few times and it started. Only when it turned back on it would rev high around 3-4k and drop back to 1k. Every time it hits 1k it picks back up to 3-4k, back and forth. If I put it into drive it bucks and then takes off on it’s own. So if I am stopped at a light I have to push the brake down to keep the car from flying off. The CAI sounds as if it’s sucking air a mile a minute (driving/idling no less than 1500 rpm) and I get several CEL codes, the most occurring one being p0108 for a map sensor, a few misfires and pending fault with IACV. When the car idles in park or neutral that’s when it bounces from 1000-4000 RPM, when placed into drive and brakes applied it will bounce from 1000 to 1500 rpm back and forth jerking until I release the brakes then it will take off. It’s like I have foot on gas and brake constantly revving up and down. I replaced the MAP sensor with no luck and replaced the IACV with no luck. After removing the intake manifold, cleaning, drying it out and sticking the new IACV on there it worked fine for about 3 minutes, then I throttled hard down the road to test it and it started again (but started over a shallow puddle so thinking water got back in there). Tried leaving battery off overnight and again no luck. While in drive it will constantly rev between 1000-1500 rpm in a quick jerking motion and I “drive” basically by letting it throttle and breaking to keep the speed level. The best way to describe it is as if the car is forcing itself to try and throttle. If I release the gas to coast the rpms will drop and the throttling becomes jerky (1000-1500 rpm) and sometimes stalls. If I am “driving” down the road I need to keep foot on brakes to stop from going +50. I am hoping someone as an idea what this could be because I cant keep throwing money at the problem trial and erroring parts. I am nervous about it being a TPS cause I do not own a dremel and cant take too much time off work trying parts. I am hoping it is the ECU because it sounds like that may be an easier fix. Any information or insight that can be provided is extremely appreciated.
#2
Safety Car
If Rpm`s are fluctuating between 1000-1500 you can do a few things like pulling out the IACV valve and give it a good cleaning. While you have the Throttle body off that should get a good cleaning also. To finish up lube the throttle plate hinges and lube up TB springs.
Very rare too have to replace IACV valve and Map Sensor break.
Very rare too have to replace IACV valve and Map Sensor break.
Last edited by Nicks2001tl; 05-03-2014 at 09:20 AM.
#3
Hey, thanks for the reply. I replaced the IACV with a new one without any change. I completely took off the intake manifold, cleaned it and the throttle body before applying the new IACV. After I put everything back it ran great for 3 minutes before I punched the throttle down the road to test it and ran thru a shallow puddle. It started pretty much immediately after the puddle and has been unchanged. The 1000-1500 rpm jumps only happen when I am in drive. Say I put into gear and dont press any pedals... it will then violently jerk forward gassing itself until its 1500 then it will stop gassing (feels like going into a lower gear) which lunges the car forward until 1000 rpms...where it will then start gassing again (pushing you back in seat) until 1500 repeat etc. If I press the gas pedal I can kind of "drive over" the hesitation and force past 1500 but the throttle seems to always be open. So if I were to let go of the gas while doing 50 it will kind of keep the speed throttling on its own (and i need to constantly press break pedal during this to keep it from climbing over 50) and eventually the rpms start to slowly drop near 1000 it will buck again and hesitate while reving back up to 1500. The 4k rpm starts when the car is in neutral or park. So if I am at a red light and don't want everyone seeing my car lunge back and forth literately every 1 second and go in neutral, it will (loudly) rev up to 4k, stop abruptly and go back down to 1k and back up to 4k drop repeat over and over. I tried pulling some sensors with the engine idling but not much difference when i pull any of them. There is no change with the engine running. If I pull the tps though with car running then it will do that 1k to 1.5k reving that it would only do previously if I had put the car into gear. If I pull the MAP sensor THEN turn car on it will idle at about 1200 with no fluctuations and will drive "hard". But pulling the IAVC really didnt have any effect with the car running or off.
#4
![Thumbs down](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon13.gif)
The problem I am having is, I went over a big puddle and the car basically just died in the middle of driving yesterday. I figure water got into the CAI because the wheel well was removed and the CAI filter sits low.
Only when it turned back on it would rev high around 3-4k and drop back to 1k. Every time it hits 1k it picks back up to 3-4k, back and forth.
If I put it into drive it bucks and then takes off on it’s own. So if I am stopped at a light I have to push the brake down to keep the car from flying off.
I get several CEL codes, the most occurring one being p0108 for a map sensor, a few misfires and pending fault with IACV. When the car idles in park or neutral that’s when it bounces from 1000-4000 RPM, when placed into drive and brakes applied it will bounce from 1000 to 1500 rpm back and forth jerking until I release the brakes then it will take off. It’s like I have foot on gas and brake constantly revving up and down.
I replaced the MAP sensor with no luck and replaced the IACV with no luck. After removing the intake manifold, cleaning, drying it out and sticking the new IACV on there it worked fine for about 3 minutes, then I throttled hard down the road to test it and it started again (but started over a shallow puddle so thinking water got back in there). Tried leaving battery off overnight and again no luck and in a quick jerking motion and I “drive” basically by letting it throttle and breaking to keep the speed level. The best way to describe it is as if the car is forcing itself to try and throttle.
If I release the gas to coast the rpms will drop and the throttling becomes jerky (1000-1500 rpm) and sometimes stalls. If I am “driving” down the road I need to keep foot on brakes to stop from going +50.
I am nervous about it being a TPS cause I do not own a dremel and cant take too much time off work trying parts. I am hoping it is the ECU because it sounds like that may be an easier fix.
Only when it turned back on it would rev high around 3-4k and drop back to 1k. Every time it hits 1k it picks back up to 3-4k, back and forth.
If I put it into drive it bucks and then takes off on it’s own. So if I am stopped at a light I have to push the brake down to keep the car from flying off.
I get several CEL codes, the most occurring one being p0108 for a map sensor, a few misfires and pending fault with IACV. When the car idles in park or neutral that’s when it bounces from 1000-4000 RPM, when placed into drive and brakes applied it will bounce from 1000 to 1500 rpm back and forth jerking until I release the brakes then it will take off. It’s like I have foot on gas and brake constantly revving up and down.
I replaced the MAP sensor with no luck and replaced the IACV with no luck. After removing the intake manifold, cleaning, drying it out and sticking the new IACV on there it worked fine for about 3 minutes, then I throttled hard down the road to test it and it started again (but started over a shallow puddle so thinking water got back in there). Tried leaving battery off overnight and again no luck and in a quick jerking motion and I “drive” basically by letting it throttle and breaking to keep the speed level. The best way to describe it is as if the car is forcing itself to try and throttle.
If I release the gas to coast the rpms will drop and the throttling becomes jerky (1000-1500 rpm) and sometimes stalls. If I am “driving” down the road I need to keep foot on brakes to stop from going +50.
I am nervous about it being a TPS cause I do not own a dremel and cant take too much time off work trying parts. I am hoping it is the ECU because it sounds like that may be an easier fix.
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
#5
Senior Moderator
Do you have a volt meter? Measure the voltage the TPS is showing throttle closed
#6
No volt meter. I dropped it off at mechanic who is saying same thing that its iacv. Specially since that's only code that comes up that and the map sensor one 108. He thinks maybe new part is defective. Im not convinced. Im thinking about just overnighting a tps and trying that.
#7
Senior Moderator
^ if a IACV code is coming up it very well could be that, or a faulty gasket there.
Trending Topics
#8
Safety Car
Ditto.
It very well cold be a defective part. If you put it in recently there should be warranty or return policy from the company for the part. Also, if you still have the original IACV valve try to give it a good cleaning and reinstall it. Check the gasket also.
#9
![Angry](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif)
I replaced the IACV with a new one without any change. I completely took off the intake manifold, cleaned it and the throttle body before applying the new IACV.
After I put everything back it ran great for 3 minutes before I punched the throttle down the road to test it and ran thru a shallow puddle. It started pretty much immediately after the puddle and has been unchanged.
So if I am at a red light and don't want everyone seeing my car lunge back and forth literately every 1 second and go in neutral, it will (loudly) rev up to 4k, stop abruptly and go back down to 1k and back up to 4k drop repeat over and over. But pulling the IAVC really didnt have any effect with the car running or off.
After I put everything back it ran great for 3 minutes before I punched the throttle down the road to test it and ran thru a shallow puddle. It started pretty much immediately after the puddle and has been unchanged.
So if I am at a red light and don't want everyone seeing my car lunge back and forth literately every 1 second and go in neutral, it will (loudly) rev up to 4k, stop abruptly and go back down to 1k and back up to 4k drop repeat over and over. But pulling the IAVC really didnt have any effect with the car running or off.
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
#11
![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon6.gif)
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
#13
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Sounds like throttle plate issue to me. Check the slack on the throttle cable it may need adjustment.
#14
10th Gear
Just wait
This happens to my car every time it rains. I have the AEM V2 CAI. It usually stops after a couple days of cruising and not opening up the throttle too much.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mugen TSX
Eastern Canada
0
09-01-2015 11:05 PM