AcuraJP08

I just did a power steering swap and also flushed my power steering fluid throught the entire system of my 1999 acura tl. After I turned on my car and the pump works great and all sounds good. Then... after having the car on for a few seconds I noticed that the car was idling higher then it used to. It was currently idling at 1000 RPM's used to be at 800 RPM's. Also, the car starts reving up and down constantly from 1250 RPM's to 1850 RPM's up and down..... I'm not sure if something happened when I installed the new pump, I do remember when I was flushing the system that a lot of fluid got sprayed around the engine compartment, surrounding the automatic timing belt tensioner, all the belts including serpentine, water pump, alternator, etc. Can this have something to do with it. I just don't want to spend $75 going to a shop to see what's wrong. Maybe a sensor got broken now or maybe wet and needs assistance lol. Thanks you all!!!!!!

fsttyms1

Doubtful it has any thing to do with it. Check the throttle body area. Make sure the TB cable isnt pulled or kinked. Usually when the car idles up and down like that its the IACV. (located on the bottom of the TB) and it just needs to be cleaned.

1st timer

What is the best way to clean it?

gold2003tl (90)

i found that out the hard way

my.daily'tl'

I know the engine doesn't like to get wet. Did you check to see if any plugs were loose? I disconnected my IACV to clean it and never put it back. :duh: With that problem its usually the throttle body. Like fsttyms said I'd check the valve its on the bottom of your throttle body looks like a little black bow with two screws on the front. I would suggest you read the seafoam threads. Also an egr port would clean everything out too. Funny thing: my engine used to shake like crazy. I replaced a front mount, seafoam and intake/egr port cleanout, new plugs. It was running yesterday and I didn't know it was on! :thumbup: I did all the work from searching on this site. I've learned that the search button will save your life!

AcuraJP08

Does anyone have a diagram of how the IAC VALVE looks like and is axactly located as well as the TPS the shop said it could be either or of what my car is doing now. I don't know exactly if I should buy a bew IAC and install it or if I should clean it like mentioned before. I don't know how to take it all apart and find the damn thing. Thanks guys!

my.daily'tl'

Follow your air box up the big black pipe. At the end of the pipe is your throttle body. Your throttle body has two cables attached to one side. On the back side nearest your windshield. Directly on the front side nearest the bumper is the tps (throttle position sensor). It has a plug connected to it. Second the IACV is on the bottom of that same assembly underneath on the bottom. You'll find a plug connected to it also. Its held by two screws directly on the front. Its getting dark outside right now. If you need pics ill try and post tomorrow. Hope it helps.

thinhthan

yea i think my car has a idling prob to but its only when its in drive. when its in park its normal

fsttyms1

Look in the DIY thread. There are links and pics on how to clean it.

1st timer

Earlier today my car was idling at around 2k rpms and i just disconnected the map sensor to see what happens and the idle dropped to 1k rpms and was stable,does this mean i have to change the map sensor?

gold2003tl (90)

i have had some random moments only when it was hot outside and A/C on full blast that i had a high idle around 2k. it took extra breaking to hold the car at a stop. it doesn't happen very often but i can predict what conditions will trigger it (hot day full A/C on).
i know i am not over heating because the temp needle is normal.

gold2003tl (90)

today i had another major idle problem, 2500 rpm and i could not get it down. so i pulled over and opened the hood and manually open and closed the throttle valve to get it "unstuck". and yes that worked, it idled fine at 600 rpm. until i tapped the gas again, the rpms went up and did not come back down any lower than 2000 rpm.

take a look at part # 16, thats were the cable comes in from the gas petal and has a double nut to adjust it. that throttle wire was just a little bit too tight and was pulling back just a little bit on the spring loaded throttle. since the cable had a little tension on it, it was keeping the inner cable from retracting all the way. i readjusted the cable so it sat farther up and relieved the tension.

bottom line is that too much tension on the throttle cable will not let the throttle body close back to the original position, resulting in high idle after letting up on the gas.

its also a good idea to clean out part #2 the idle control valve. and also lube up the throttle cable area.

this seemed to fix my problem, for now

gold2003tl (90)

nope its not fixed, i think the other cable closest to the throttle body is also too tight


when the engine heats up it expands that cable or something and it sticks, thus why this only happens on warm days, or after the car has been sitting for a while getting hot.

its reallys suck having like 2500 rpm idle at a red light, i have to shift into neutral to keep the tranny from burning up.

and this whole things starts after i let up from the gas pedal

TLin401

Have you cleaned the throttle plates and bore? Since you pulled over and got it unstuck by moving the throttle them that may be your problem. Trying cleaning it and see what happens.

gold2003tl (90)

yea i cleaned everything out when i did my egr port cleaning, i am going to take another look at everything and see whats making it stick.

i might post a video to show whats really going on, cus its mad annoying


what else can be causing this?

thinhthan

how do you lube the throttle cables?

gold2003tl (90)

ATTENTION ALL WITH HIGH IDLE

all you have to do is adjust these, so the cable has less tension on it

no lube of cables or extra cleaning is needed, please check these cables and there adjustments if u have a high idle or sticking throttle.






take a close look at the once closest to the intake pipe, that one i belive is for cruise control and it was WAY too tight with extra tension and was pulling back on the TB not letting it return to the original position.

you can tell just by how much further up it has been adjust compared to the other cable (gas petal) to compensate for the extra tension it used to have.



Hope this helps you guys out, it fixed it for me

03_tl_driver

Does your cruise still work like before or not?