Brake Lamp light on
#1
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Location: Southern Cal
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Brake Lamp light on
My 02 tl-s brake lamp indicator on my dashboard just turn red today, after work I checked my brake light and it is good.
since the bulb are still working, what can cause this.?
since the bulb are still working, what can cause this.?
#4
Sorry to ask you this question, but you know there are two filaments on the brake lights... (when low beams are on). Also the 3rd high mount stop light could have gone out...
My brake light just went out a couple weeks ago.
My brake light just went out a couple weeks ago.
#5
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#6
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It can also be your fluid. Low fluid will trigger the light.
I just noticed that you were in So Cal. But for the colder states, I realized that the BRAKE light comes on (some TLs) when the weather drops below 30 degrees and goes back to normal once the car warms up. Happened to me.
I just noticed that you were in So Cal. But for the colder states, I realized that the BRAKE light comes on (some TLs) when the weather drops below 30 degrees and goes back to normal once the car warms up. Happened to me.
#7
the LAMP warning means just that- you have a bulb out in the brake light system-
ck them all carefully with buddy holding brake on
look from outside- center lights- everything
in cold the master brake warning may trigger if the slider inside the res cap is getting stuck
changed your brake fluid recently?
with new pads should come new brake fluid so you dont backwash crud in the system as you compress the caliper piston
ck them all carefully with buddy holding brake on
look from outside- center lights- everything
in cold the master brake warning may trigger if the slider inside the res cap is getting stuck
changed your brake fluid recently?
with new pads should come new brake fluid so you dont backwash crud in the system as you compress the caliper piston
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mcottrell95 (02-24-2014)
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#8
if it really thinks there is a brake light problem: it wont shift for you to be able to drive
thats when the nuetral safety override comes into play- the slot on right side of shifter
remove cover- insert car key and push down
shift to N- remove key from slot- start car and drive
Will lock itself like that every time shut off until you fix the prob--often brake light switch at pedal fails and causes the prob
thats when the nuetral safety override comes into play- the slot on right side of shifter
remove cover- insert car key and push down
shift to N- remove key from slot- start car and drive
Will lock itself like that every time shut off until you fix the prob--often brake light switch at pedal fails and causes the prob
#9
the LAMP warning means just that- you have a bulb out in the brake light system-
ck them all carefully with buddy holding brake on
look from outside- center lights- everything
in cold the master brake warning may trigger if the slider inside the res cap is getting stuck
changed your brake fluid recently?
with new pads should come new brake fluid so you dont backwash crud in the system as you compress the caliper piston
ck them all carefully with buddy holding brake on
look from outside- center lights- everything
in cold the master brake warning may trigger if the slider inside the res cap is getting stuck
changed your brake fluid recently?
with new pads should come new brake fluid so you dont backwash crud in the system as you compress the caliper piston
more solid tail chasing suggestions from the all knowing dick 01tl4tl
I would suggest that if the OP really wants good advice you should have pointed him in the direction to inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, the wiring of the sensor at the master cylinder and the brake switch mounted behind the brake pedal which are the only things that can activate the idiot light on the dash. What the hell the guy must not know how to check the lights out even though he has all ready done that and did not find an issue and even if he did it still wouldn't activate the idiot light on the dash.
Last edited by rcb2000; 01-12-2011 at 09:14 AM.
#10
maybe you should try reading the service manual sometimes and the wiring diagram for the curcuit. If a light bulb is burnt out it will not activate the light in the instrument cluster.
more solid tail chasing suggestions from the all knowing dick 01tl4tl
I would suggest that if the OP really wants good advice you should have pointed him in the direction to inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, the wiring of the sensor at the master cylinder and the brake switch mounted behind the brake pedal which are the only things that can activate the idiot light on the dash. What the hell the guy must not know how to check the lights out even though he has all ready done that and did not find an issue and even if he did it still wouldn't activate the idiot light on the dash.
more solid tail chasing suggestions from the all knowing dick 01tl4tl
I would suggest that if the OP really wants good advice you should have pointed him in the direction to inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, the wiring of the sensor at the master cylinder and the brake switch mounted behind the brake pedal which are the only things that can activate the idiot light on the dash. What the hell the guy must not know how to check the lights out even though he has all ready done that and did not find an issue and even if he did it still wouldn't activate the idiot light on the dash.
Lol dude, so then when my light bulb went out, it was pure coincidence the dash light came on, then went off when i replaced the burnt out light. Go figure!
It may be the system bases the burnt out light on </> resistance than if the bulb is burnt out.
#11
my 01 TL owner book says if a tail bulb loses an element the brake LAMP light will come on the dash
I have said many times before about the RED brake warning being master cyl cap slider bad or loose wire to it, low fluid level of course, and the ever popular brake pedal switch- which should trigger the nuetral safety switch and force a manual override with the detent next to shifter
I have said many times before about the RED brake warning being master cyl cap slider bad or loose wire to it, low fluid level of course, and the ever popular brake pedal switch- which should trigger the nuetral safety switch and force a manual override with the detent next to shifter
#12
yes aspec, the system is looking at resistance for blown bulb-
when you install LED lights in the system you must use a resistor to fool the dash,, or the lamp light will always be on,,LEDs being lower power and resistance
See diy thread on LEDs if you dont trust me
I dont claim to know everything- some things I know a lot about, and some a little,
and some nothing at all~
I usually know which is which too!! ( I think)
when you install LED lights in the system you must use a resistor to fool the dash,, or the lamp light will always be on,,LEDs being lower power and resistance
See diy thread on LEDs if you dont trust me
I dont claim to know everything- some things I know a lot about, and some a little,
and some nothing at all~
I usually know which is which too!! ( I think)
#13
when cking the tail bulbs the brakes must be pushed, every brake bulb (4) must be brightly lit,, and the center brake light on rear deck as well
just looking at the running lights will fool you
just looking at the running lights will fool you
#14
yes aspec, the system is looking at resistance for blown bulb-
when you install LED lights in the system you must use a resistor to fool the dash,, or the lamp light will always be on,,LEDs being lower power and resistance
See diy thread on LEDs if you dont trust me
I dont claim to know everything- some things I know a lot about, and some a little,
and some nothing at all~
I usually know which is which too!! ( I think)
when you install LED lights in the system you must use a resistor to fool the dash,, or the lamp light will always be on,,LEDs being lower power and resistance
See diy thread on LEDs if you dont trust me
I dont claim to know everything- some things I know a lot about, and some a little,
and some nothing at all~
I usually know which is which too!! ( I think)
#15
the diy section has all you need to know with step by step pics
here is the diy master list- please save to your browsers favorites
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
the type in a metal case with heat fins on it still gets very hot when lights are in use (see examples online- resistor for LED should get plenty of results)
Mounting in a safe location is important
again- the diy on it is an excellent guide
here is the diy master list- please save to your browsers favorites
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
the type in a metal case with heat fins on it still gets very hot when lights are in use (see examples online- resistor for LED should get plenty of results)
Mounting in a safe location is important
again- the diy on it is an excellent guide
#16
I looked through the diy list before posting in this thread and it has nothing specific to my problem... The leds i have are plug and play so i dont see how i can add resistors easily. Im sorry if im missing something and i appreciate your help.
#17
you dont modify the bulb itself
the resistor will have 2 wires, 1 to power for bulb and the other you attach to the body as a ground--it causes the system to think regular bulbs are there and the volts/amps are all correct
Determine which is the power wire to the bulb, use an inline tap or other method to attach to it
use sheet metal screw or existing ground spot to attach other wire from resistor to ground
Hot does not begin to describe the temps these reach when the brakes or TS are activated
the resistor will have 2 wires, 1 to power for bulb and the other you attach to the body as a ground--it causes the system to think regular bulbs are there and the volts/amps are all correct
Determine which is the power wire to the bulb, use an inline tap or other method to attach to it
use sheet metal screw or existing ground spot to attach other wire from resistor to ground
Hot does not begin to describe the temps these reach when the brakes or TS are activated
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rescuewindow13 (10-18-2011)
#19
Brake lamp in dash board is on after replacing to LED
When replacing incandescent light bulb with more efficient LED, the car will assume that the bulb is burned because LED consume about 5 times less current for the same brightness.
if the bulb is the left/right blinker, the dash board arrow light and relay sound will indicate burn bulb detected by blinking faster.
If you replaced the brake lamps with LED, the electronic will turn on the brake lamp in the dash board after you press the brake pedal.
It is recommended to add a resistor in parallel with the LED to simulate the current that incandescent bulb are using. This means that you waste all the energy saved by the LED ... You show off those modern LED to appear like if you care for saving energy to save the planet, but the stupid car designers force you to waste the same energy in resistors.
Here another option: you can use incandescent light bulb instead of resistors. You install the pretty LED for everybody to see and hide the original incandescent inside the car frame.
You still need to make sure that the heat of the bulb will not affect the wire or burn the plastic parts inside the car. Using the bulb resolve the question about which value of resistor needed..
If you use 12 ohm, the resistor would take 1 amp and generate 12 watts of heat
6 ohm, 2 amp, 24 watts
3 ohm, 4 amp, 48 watts : this is the power if head lamps which is much more than blinking/brake light.
if the bulb is the left/right blinker, the dash board arrow light and relay sound will indicate burn bulb detected by blinking faster.
If you replaced the brake lamps with LED, the electronic will turn on the brake lamp in the dash board after you press the brake pedal.
It is recommended to add a resistor in parallel with the LED to simulate the current that incandescent bulb are using. This means that you waste all the energy saved by the LED ... You show off those modern LED to appear like if you care for saving energy to save the planet, but the stupid car designers force you to waste the same energy in resistors.
Here another option: you can use incandescent light bulb instead of resistors. You install the pretty LED for everybody to see and hide the original incandescent inside the car frame.
You still need to make sure that the heat of the bulb will not affect the wire or burn the plastic parts inside the car. Using the bulb resolve the question about which value of resistor needed..
If you use 12 ohm, the resistor would take 1 amp and generate 12 watts of heat
6 ohm, 2 amp, 24 watts
3 ohm, 4 amp, 48 watts : this is the power if head lamps which is much more than blinking/brake light.
#21
1996 rl 3.5 premium. Brake lamp light.
My brake lamp light came on a few days ago. Turns out one of my bulbs was burnt. Changed the bulb, pretty easy fix. The light has gone away since.
Just my two cents.
Just my two cents.
#23
Led
yes aspec, the system is looking at resistance for blown bulb-
when you install LED lights in the system you must use a resistor to fool the dash,, or the lamp light will always be on,,LEDs being lower power and resistance
See diy thread on LEDs if you dont trust me
I dont claim to know everything- some things I know a lot about, and some a little,
and some nothing at all~
I usually know which is which too!! ( I think)
when you install LED lights in the system you must use a resistor to fool the dash,, or the lamp light will always be on,,LEDs being lower power and resistance
See diy thread on LEDs if you dont trust me
I dont claim to know everything- some things I know a lot about, and some a little,
and some nothing at all~
I usually know which is which too!! ( I think)
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