I'm new to this but any help would be greatly appreciated...

I blew the timing belt on my 99 acura 3.2tl last week and i'm not certain whether I'm getting ripped off or not. I don't feel comfortable with the shop I have it at but before I call around I want to see if I can get a ball park figure to be looking for. This shop is telling me around $1,800 but they won't give me a print out or break down of charges and are rude when I try to get details so I definitely feel like something is up. I know the timing belt/water pump change along is going to be around 600-800 but to replace the valves and possibly head gasket does anyone know a better guess overall?

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

And now that I'm thinking about it how do I know for certain the timing belt has blown. What happened was I was driving down the road doing about 40 or so and it just shut off on me and i coasted to a stop and it won't fire back up. If the valves did bust too wouldn't I hear that? Or at least some kind of nasty noise? It all sounded pretty smooth. I wouldn't have really noticed it shut off had the gas petal not completely loosened up.

 

Can you go see the car?
If they won't give you an itemized estimate, it's time to take your car somewhere else.

 

Take your car somewhere else.

If it broke you should have heard the motor make all sorts of wrong noises as it broke. On our cars if the T belt goes so does the motor. Being you have a 99 is it possible your ignition switch failed (as its a common problem and shuts the car off while driving?

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm most definitely going to take it some place else but I would like to have an idea what I'm getting myself into before I pay to have it towed again. Now that I've put more thought into it possibly not being the timing belt I think it will be worth it to pay to tow somewhere else and get a second estimate. Any idea what an ignition switch replacement may cost?

 

Sounds like they are fucking you big time. If your T-Belt broke, you would know the sounds afterwards were not good, the car wouldn't just "shut off and coast". I would get it to a more reputable shop.

 

I would diffenately get a 2nd opinion. If they (that shop) were to give me the run around like you stated with out a list or showing me i wouldnt give them a dime.

IF it is your ignition its free. There is a recall for it on 99s.
IF it is your timing belt look for it to be very costly. Our engines are interference motors. Meaning if the timing belt goes odds are the motor is shot, or at the least costly valve and head work.

 

fsttmys has it right
Call the dealer with your VIN number and ask if you are part of the ignition recall

have it towed there, and ask them for a diagnostic of the engine and timing belt
They can remove a plastic cover or 2 and visually see if the belt is where its supposed to be.
If the belt is broken and the valves contacted the piston- you are better of with a rebuilt engine or even junkyard motor than trying to fix yours- 2500$ is normal if you break the belt
How many miles on your car? never did the water pump timing belt job before ?

 

Def get that car out of there. Bring it to your nearest honda dealer.

I had a shop tell me my 94 Integra needed a new distributor when all it was that needed to be replaced was the main fuel relay once I had to towed to Acura.

 

If I am reading this correctly, is it better to get your timing belt changed before it goes because when it goes then the motor goes. So a cheap insurance on your vechile would be getting this replaced at how many miles? I have a 99 TL. Thanks.

 

For most of the TL years, suggested is around 100k miles-105k miles
Usually the belt last more miles than that- but time is the enemy of rubber
The water pump- timing belt and tensioners should all be replaced together in the 100-125k miles range- If you drive it really hard- sooner is not going to hurt.
My 01 has 80k and 6 years, so I figure the same as you- cheap insurance to do now~

 

Thanks 01. So I did read correctly and a timing belt going means the motor will go because of it?


Also, how much would a new timing belt cost?

 

I just got mine done for about 600. Dealer wanted about 800. Take it to someone you trust. My bro had an eclipse and got his t belt done at some cheapo place. It f-d his motor up because they didn't get it on right.

 

Yes you read correctly. These motors are interference motors. If the timing belt breaks the pistons will hit the open valves and you will destroy your motor. If your still driving around with a 99 i would highly suggest you get that belt replaced soon. Age kills rubber faster than mileage.

As for price, shop around with your local mechanics that you trust. Its going to vary from 600-1200. You should have your water pump replaced at the same time

 

There are 140k miles. I just bought it a few months ago for fairly cheap knowing I may have to put some work into it but didn't think anything like this. The guy I bought it from told me he had the timing belt and water pump done at 60k and 120k and he gave me a whole stack of maintenance logs but I can't find the receipt for this so no confirmation of it. I'm pretty confident in the guy I bought it from and it seems to me (not knowing much of course though) that it's in damn good shape so I really doubt it has anything to do with tbelt and wp at all now. Where it's at right now is closed Sunday so I want to go up there and take a look at it myself because it's not fenced in or anything. How can I tell by looking if the timing belt is for sure gone or can I at all? And is there any way for me to find out on my own if it may be the ignition switch? Once again it shut off really smoothly and no noise so yeah.....

 

there is a small rubber inspection hole that you can see into on the front side of the t-belt cover (on the passenger side of the motor, it will be a black cover (like a upside down U) you should be able to look into is and see if the belt is tight and on. Thats about the only way without taking it off to look (like should be to be inspected)

 

This is the cover and the hole circled in red

 

Thanks for the pic. My dad and I went and took a look and we saw the little hole but weren't quite sure whether the belt was on or not. We couldn't see the belt but we also couldn't visibly see where it should have been. I attempted to start it while my dad took a look and he said he didn't see anything move in there so could that be an indication that it's blown? Also, what's the procedure if we were to do it ourselves? We ordered the service manual and my dad would like to attempt if it's possible and we have some time on our hands. Would we have to take the engine out just to do the tbelt or can we do it from the top?

 

use a flashlight- if you dont see the outer side of a rubber belt.....its gone

The timing belt job itself is done mostly from the top- you dont remove the engine to service it. The problen you face is -assuming broken belt- you also have at least a few or several valves bent from contacting the top of the piston. So you have to remove both cylinder heads and have them checked and the suspect valves replaced- then if there is damage to the piston top- its replace piston time and probable damage lower in the engine from all the pounding....

What also happens when the belt breaks and someone keeps trying to start the car:
The valves are not moving but the pistons are- so any valves that are open get another chance to do some engine damage.

I would be calling shops that have rebuilt engines ready to drop in- save time - money- hassle and have a good engine with a warrantee.

 

Thanks for the info 01. So it looks like it probably is gone then because we didn't see anything, we had a flashlight and looked the best we could. How much of a pain in the ass would it be to get to the valves and check those?

 

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

 

if the belt broke your most likely better off looking for a used lower mileage motor and sticking it in. It would be cheaper (400-800 bucks) and easier to do than trying to repair the damage

 

A test for valve damage without dismantling the top of the engine and removing cylinder heads- would be a cylinder leak down pressure test. That will give the final answer

 

I've finally got the car home and started to check things out. I removed the front timing belt cover and everything looks fine so I got to the back one and everything is fine there. Here's a picture of it all. If the timing belt were indeed certainly broken as the shop told me wouldn't it be completely gone or is it possible that it's broken underneath but the top is still there as such? I also went ahead and looked into the ignition switch. I'm having trouble getting a hold of anyone worthy of talking to at the dealer but I checked the current according to the service manual and it looks like that should be fine. When we try to start it (did so before we removed anything and only for a second) my dad says the crank shaft turns but the timing belt doesn't move at all. Also, any ideas on getting the side engine mount bracket nuts off? They're not budging whatsoever.

 

 

Is the timing belt tight? It appears to be tight.
When you say you tried to start it, does it just sit and crank, just not start running?
The belt doesnt look to be in good shape though. Kinda hard to tell from the pics. Are the groves/teeth still on the Timing belt?

 

So to make sure I understand:
Dad saw the bolt/crankshaft at the bottem center of the motor turn, and no movement was seen on the timing belt or the cam gears at the top?

Can you pull on the timing belt and it comes free in your hand?
That would mean dont bother rebuilding- there are plenty of good engines at the auto recycler yard.

 

That timing belt looks like it's toast. When you attempted to restart the motor, did you hear any loud banging? That would be your pistons smashing into the valves. If the belt is gone you would also notice the car makes a different sound when attempting to start it. It should sound like the starter's spinning faster because there isn't that much of a load on it now. I'm praying for you man.

 

The timing belt is on pretty tight and yeah, the grooves of belt look to still be pretty in tact. No loud banging noise or anything, I'm pretty sure the piston aren't shot at this point.

 

Well if the crank was turning then the upper had to be turning. Do you hear any weird noises while trying to crank it over

 

Could it be a broken pin/key that does not allow the crankshaft to transfer the power to the belt? Just thinking!!!

 

Could be but its big. and has no where to go but out. It cant do that with the crank pulley in place.

#16

 

#16. Is that a key of some sort that slides into a groove on the crank shaft locking #12 ?
The T-belt is wraped around that and in turn ................ .
If indeed #16 function is as described above , and that part is sheered.
Would it not allow the crank shaft to turn the other components minus the timing belt?
Best regards.

 

Oops being in a hurry owned me, i meant to type 16.

I highly doubt that sheared.I woudl say it would be more likely the gear did, but in which case the belt should be loose. While i suppose it could i think there would be more signs of damage. I would place a wrench on it and turn by hand to see if you can see every thing moving the way it should .

 

Need pics from different angles to possibly see a cause. A video would be even better.

 

ive always wondered, can you tell the wear by looking at the belt? i bought my car at 130K and im wondering if i should replace it? the belt looks fine, but who knows? what is the price range for replacement?

 

Okay we are on a common ground! How about removing the crank pulley,take the cover off and lets go from there.

 

Age is a factor as well as miles...the cars age as well as the drivers
You cant tell anything about the innner-working side- of the belt without completely removing it.
The book calls for timing belt and water pump at 105k (gen2 cars)
Since you are past that, I would start asking local shops for pricing and what exactly they do.
You can save by replacing the filters and spark plugs yourself at home.
The pump and belt and tensioners run 600-800- add hoses and extras 1000$ plus throw in valve adjustment for another $150-200 and be good to go an other 100k, with nothing more than oil changes to keep her perfect

And as always- SEAFOAM!!!

 

No not really. If in doubt replace it. Age is worse than miles on rubber. close to 1k for someone to do it. Do a search, its discussed alot, there is even a diy

 

[QUOTE=spiro]Okay we are on a common ground! How about removing the crank pulley,take the cover off and lets go from there.[/QUOTE} Yea that might be a good idea. Though the OP really needs to describe what happens better when trying to start it.