Hi I have a 2000 acrua Tl and when I step on the gas like to pass a car the engine bogs down and trans will not go into passing gear.
I get falt codes PO300 to PO306.
I gave the car a tune-up with new pluges and air filter and PVC.
it runs great at normal around town , but when I go to step on it, bad news. could it be a bad coil pack?

 

what spark plugs did you use- exactly?

multi mis codes are often a wire loose at coil or 1 bad coil
see any of the recent threads on same subject

 

I used Ngk

 

ngk iridium -iridium IX- platinum -or lazer irid?
if they were in the range of 8 bucks each they are correct
2 buck plugs are not for our system

first ck all the connections to the coils and coils bolted down square and tight

If you recall setting one coil down hard when removed to change plug- that can mess it up, and when a coil goes it causes a multi cyl code just like you got

after cking work is good, you can try pulling a coil connector one at a time and testing if the rpm stays the same- good coils will drop rpm when taken away from the game.
dead coil or dying coil wont make a differance

or buy 1 coil at parts store for 50 bucks
take the code sheet and start at the first cyl listed as bad- try new coil there
reset ECU by removing the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute
test drive
if not better, move new coil to next possible- reset ecu- repeat until fixed

cyl numbering
rear-towards firewall pass to driver 123
front pass to driver 456

good luck- this happens all the time after plug change, and on its own due to mileage
Hope its just a loose connection!

 

Thanks, I'll try what you said tonight and see if i can get her to run right. I also noticed that it doe's not matter if the car is under load or not as soon as the tach gets to 3000 she bogs down. the more i try to give her gas she won't go over 3000 rpm. but it don't happen all the time. I'll do as you said and let you know.
Thanks again

 

ok stop the boat!!

if it wont rev above 3 its probably in Limp Mode, to protect the engine
when it senses danger from misfire or other issue

 

OK then where do i go from here? I should tell you about a probulem I had. the car would keep dieing and not starting about 2 mo ago. I had it towed to a shop and they found a lose wire in the c103 conector. the coils wern't geting the signal from the ECM. once they fixed it they cleared the computer and it starts and runs fine. after about 2 weeks i started haveing this trouble. I've replaced the spark plugs and it ran better, but still miss. I;ve replace 4 coils so far and it runs better each time. I have the last 2 on order and am going to put them in so at least i know that part of it;s OK. the only other thing I can think of is a sensor is going bad some where.
when it acts up the trans misses shifts and the engine bogs down till i let up on the gas.
sometimes when its in park and i rev the engine and try to go over 3000it just starts to mis and fals down to 2000RPM.
If i let it sit and idel for 2 or 3 min it will act normal. it will rev over 4000 if i want it to.
It's just nerve racking.you never Know what to expect.
What do you think it could be? HELP

 

could be a throttle position sensor or cam sensor,,or ????
what codes are you getting now?
Has the shop looked at it again?

are you resetting the ecu by pulling the clock fuse after each try?- after new coil etc?
thats a must to clear codes and make it run a self test, maybe generate new codes

Who are the resident experts on this subject?
where are our real acura techs?

 

Ok ; on a hunch it may be temp related i changed the coolant tep sensor. it ran real good around town and on interstate.
on the intersstate at about 70 mph i could feel slight miss. almost like a bad plug wire. I have a code reader wich will read the computer while i,m driving. even when it miss i have no codes. reader reports O codes.
I'm begining to think it's sensor related. somthing is not reporting the right info to the EMC.
It could very well be the TPS or IAT or the MAP or all of them.
I also replaced the EGR becuse I got a code P1491 but that was last week and it never came up again.
the car has 184000 so it could be anything

 

could it be the coil only gos bad under load?

 

It seem to be load related, just taking it easy around town its ok but as soon as you try to lean on it it say's NO THANKS

 

i have a 2000 acura tl 160,000 its kinda of doing that when its in d5 when i go up a hill the front end shakes somtimes but when i have it on d4 it dosent do that no codes showing and no lights of check engine, hope its not the tranny

 

coil will show under load faster than at idle- thats correct

you installed the correct 8 dollar each spark plugs?
if 2 dollar specials remove and install right stuff
rare to need several coils unless all damaged in a plug change
coils are easily damaged - set it down hard and its hurt inside

bad coil should throw a misfire code
Ck all the connections to the coils- the power wire in tight and locked
all coils are on right--might remove and redo the job- remove a few spark plugs to get readings
they tell the truth of whats going on inside
Give me a set of plugs and I can tell you if its lean or rich and potential reasons

Maybe your code reader is off? go to parts store and see what they can find--its free

 

have you both done the EGR port cleaning of the intake manifold???
2 hour diy with extas like lube throttle cables and IACV service on TB- TB air plate cleaning etc

it causes a slight miss at idle and bad running under power
Need to remove intake manifold and clean all ports and passages all the way thru the egr system with a wire coat hanger!! = approx every 75Kmiles
failure to do so will result in unusual symptoms- as most techs wont think of it--not a `normal` car problem,,, but the TL has a serious crud buildup problem

 

Vic:
ck your motor mounts- especially front and passenger side
front and rear are vac bosted-oil filled units

if at ~45mph and trying to climb a hill- try D4 and see if prob goes away or changes
Smell trans fluid- burnt sugar or atf smell?
color reddish-pink- brown- black?
history of atf changes?

you are curent on maitenance items?- plugs, seafoam , clean TB throat air plate and the egr port cleaning

 

you need to check the fuel pressure and the fuel system for issues, dicking with the coils plugs and what ever elese old boy is rambling on about is just a waist of time as if they are bad it will throw a code to the ECU, with fuel issues it won't send/set any code unless it's a sensor issue and there isn't a sensor to monitor fuel pressue or the regulator either.

 

has anyone actually found fuel system probs on the TL before?

`old` also means been around to see many problems that dont fit normal diagnostics

ALL the maitenance needs to be current to help figure out whats wrong
120kmiles on OE plugs--lets start there!
never did egr cleaning--thats every 75kmiles!!

 

once again a bunch of bullshit to run them around instead of dealing with the issue and diagnoising the problem, lets waist money time and effort runing around chasing your fucking tail and fixing nothing, there are no codes diaphrams in a regulator never develope pin holes and go bad, fuel pumps never go bad,

Plugs what the hell symptoms do they cause, misfires, poor gas milage maybe rough idle they sure as hell don't quit fucking working when they hit a specific RPM

EGR valve what happens when it goes bad rough ilde poor gas milage, trouble codes too

so lets dick with this dick with that dick with everything that has nothing to do with the fucking problem. cenial old coot, hell while their at it might as well check the battery to after all the engine needs it to run after it's started right, the alternator is only for charging the car right there Dumb ass isn't that what you tell everyone anyway, the alternator is just to charge the battery and the battery is what supplies the power for the whole car even when it's running, wrong but hey you've got it all figured out and maybe why you just ramble on for post aftger post after please get a F'n clue.

 

Well how about we start with your piss poor reading skills

1 the plugs are brand new

2 the ERG is new too

so what bennefit is there to fuck with them again? obiously they aren't the problem.

 

hello old dude reading getting harder with age?

 

Hello is anyone reading these?

 

KNOCK IT OFF. These type of comments arent needed

 

This was meant as general info for all:
ALL the maitenance needs to be current to help figure out whats wrong
120kmiles on OE plugs--lets start there! (used as example for diagnostic)
never did egr cleaning--thats every 75kmiles!!

replaced egr valve is not the cleaning thats needed- OP has more than twice the recommended miles between egr service of every 75- per fsttmys personal experience of 400,000 miles on a TL and a few egr services along the way~

OP never answered my question of exactly which ngk plugs-
so I have to assume thats part of the problem- store sold 2 buck specials- until I hear otherwise

alt and battery work together on modern cars- thats true, they ~support each other~ more than on older cars with less electronics,, both must be healthy, cant run the car without one for very long~

you need the system running on spec to get good processing of info from all the sensors and proper running,,so an easy test of the elect. system never hurt a diagnostic.
Actually one of the first things a good shop will test!!! OK we have good volts and amps, now we can proceed to find where its not getting that power thru....
or-
we have weak volts and not repsonding to load test- try another battery, still not responding- move on to alternator testing, bad diode found = prob found

while I may get details wrong- trying to help several threads at once can get confusing as to who replaced what,,in general I think my opinion is well respected- at least thats what the thank yous I get say

the pay here stinks,, but its hard to find harrassment of a higher quality~

 

maybe the OPs original problem of loose wire has come back,,or hurt the ecm somehow?
or another one is loose,,

4 coils is extreme start to fixing a problem,,then he throws a temp sensor at it on a hunch..

 

well the shop found the trouble. Pluged cat coverter. the car had 15Lb of back pressure. they took off the cat and it was completly pluged. put new cat on car runs like raped ape!

 

Doh!! I should have thought cat was plugged when it wouldnt rev--but mind went to the cars systems-

what gas have you been running--91 good quality brand? fuel cleaners?
car miles?

 

run 91 amoco 180000 miles It runs real good now, just wonder how many miles and how long? I use only mobil 5W30 Sync oil, change every 6000 with new filter Trans has been rebuilt at 174000 all new parts and converter from honda. all we can do is keep going till the next thing thanks for everyones help

 

for others in need- ck our sponsor Excelerate for cats of different performance levels and prices

180 kmiles is good life from any cat- normal wearout by that point

you can run 7500 miles between oil change if you want, thats what the oil reminder/Mait Req light system is set for --on regular oil no less!

 

ck your control arm bushings and sway bar end links,,the other main wearout parts with mileage

 

Well I see rcb's "diarrhea of the mouth" must have finally got him .

 

rumor has it -Mod gave him a 7 day vacation

 

O K Will do. Thanks again

 

hmmm sounds like an injector problem to me....i have had cases in the past where the misfire would change from cyl to cyl with codes p0300-p0306

 

I think the problem was solved? It was a problem with the cat.

 

I know the new guy is bringin the thread back but I had the same symptoms and the problem was fixed. DO NOT use aftermarket coil packs for your car. NGK plugs are a must as aftermarket will also blow your packs. The aftermarket wire connectors with the coil packs fit too loose and caused multiple misfires. Go OEM and save yourself piece of mind and future hassle. I brought my car to an ASE certified mechanic and told him to put in all OEM. He did not and now I'm suing. Funny thing is I brought the car to him when I had the first misfire and he said someone put in autolite spark plugs for a Ford! Then he goes and puts NGK plugs in but then tries to gauge me on price and sneak in aftermarket coil packs. Do not go cheap it doesn't pay. Hope this helps. Be sure to adjust your valves every 75k b/c if you're not going to the dealer or aren't a mechanic yourself you may not know that. I haven't found any other posts with people complaining aftermarket coil packs were to blame because the wire connectors fit too loose and caused misfires so I thought I'd give my 2 cents.