jaaaydeeem

Been having a weird acceleration issue lately...

*Keep in mind that this happens in first gear in an automatic.

When I shift into D5, I'll let the car roll a bit before pressing the gas right away. Occasionally when I press on the gas, nothing will happen and the car will still roll. If I press a littler harder I hear a weird knock sound (just one knock). So in order for me to get the car to accelerate, I have to fully let off the gas and then press it again and the car runs smooth after that. Another way I've tried to get it to go was lightly keeping my foot on the pedal to see what happens... Eventually it will go but jerks really hard... Don't know what it could be!!! Any info/help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I recently changed my spark plugs, coils, EGR, cleaned my manifold, Ports. Also did a oil change and seafoam.

Only major thing I haven't done was change my Mounts and Tranny flush.

Other than that, I've keep keeping up with my maintenance.

3.2TLc

Hey Jaaaydeeem, was the car doing this same weird stuff before the recent PM work ?

If so, and it didn't help.....recheck past work and then consider replacing the mounts if bad.
Also perform a drain & fill of the tranny using Honda DW1 fluid.

Does the tranny run normally after getting past starting out ? Nothing out of the ordinary ?
Could be just worn mounts, IDK. Try to eliminate the basics. Good luck !!!

jaaaydeeem

Thank you!!! I'll keep that in mind and I'll double check my past work. It did start happening after I changed my Spark plugs, coils and manifold cleaning... I'm hoping it's just something minor lol.

But the cars runs super smooth other wise... And I'm looking into Mounts, but haven't decided on what Brand (that'll be my last resort). Also I'll be doing a Drain/Fill this weekend(hopefully) so we'll see how that goes. Thanks again, appreciate the response!

3.2TLc

The front and passenger side top mount are known to go bad, causing similar issues which you described.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

Did you torque down the coil packs and spark plugs correct/tight when you changed them out? That's the only reason I could think that would lead to a knocking noise and a hesitation in acceleration. Especially because you said it started happening after changing them out.

I don't think it'd be related to the manifold cleaning or the EGR because that will increase throttle response after cleaning, especially since it was clogged before.

I'd re-check those then proceed to the flush and replace mounts if need be, but hopefully it isn't a major issue. Good luck bro!

jaaaydeeem

Yes, I torque them accordingly! But i'm going to double check to see if there is anything wrong with them!!
If nothing, then I'll proceed to do a flush...
Lol trying to go from least to greatest cost wise!!

Thank Teo!!

Lol go figure. But well, any mount recommendations?

3.2TLc

Did ya use NGK plugs ? If you're sure that the plugs were properly torqued, then it must be something else, IMO. Any CEL codes ?

Perform the tranny "drain and fill" method using Honda DW1 fluid. Consider replacing the inline spin on filter and perhaps cleaning the shift solenoids if the fluid was dirty.

Don't pay the big bucks for Acura mounts.....check around for online pricing of aftermarket parts. Sometimes you can get all the mounts for a good price. The labor is the killer, especially the rear one. Check the "DIY" sticky for more info.

jaaaydeeem

Yeahh... NGK Plat. but no CEL codes. I even ran it on an OBD2 that scans the whole car for any issues... But still nothing..

Checked my Tranny fluid as well. Not super dirty but going to flush anyways and fill. and will check the solenoids as well!!

And thank you! I'm def trying to avoid going to the dealer lol cause their "price quote" is RE-DICK-ULOUS!! So I have been referring to the DIY's jus in case I do have to change my mounts!

01tl4tl

please stop using the word FLUSH near the acura transmission
we do a gravity/manual drain and refill

tell the wrong person or place to flush and they will attempt to use a machine made for American cars from decades past- using dextron atf no less- the very stuff the 3x3 total fluid change-out method was written by acura: in case someone accidentally added ANY dextron to the TL trans-

01tl4tl

you can get aftermarket non-vac boosted mounts and plug the vac line at source point,
a little less technology but holds the engine in place!

uk8ntcme

I've got a 2000 tl that is doing the same thing. it had an idle air problem and a check engine light for the egr so I took it apart and cleaned the manifold, egr, and throttle body. the car idles fine now and the light went off but now it's doing the no throttle response but it usually does it when it has been sitting long enough to cool off. after the first take off when it messes up it will run fine. I just don't get it

dewisant

I just bought a 1999 3.2 TL with 145k on it and after doing some basic fluid and torque maint. I discovered that there is NO BOLT through the passenger side motor mount. The R/F fender had been hit and repaired, but this missing bolt was a bit of a shock. The car has a bit of a shudder when starting the engine, but seems to run fine otherwise. I use it as a commuter and have no intention of racing it.

3.2TLc

Welcome Uk8ntcme !!!
Tell us more about your TL's mileage and any other problems.
Was it only the EGR code that previously came up with the CEL ?

When was the last tune-up ? Perhaps fresh NGK plugs and an air filter may help.

Try some fuel system cleaner first. Check the fuel pressure and have the electrical system load tested. Carefully inspect all of the grounds, as they are critical. Does the tranny seem to function smoothly ?

01tl4tl

hey 3.2 does that sound like a FPR issue, hot start described above? or maybe fusebox/relays solder issue?

jaaaydeeem

Just an update.

Did my DRAIN & FILL for my tranny flush and also found that the culprit was a bad spark plug.

Turns out there was oil getting in cause when I took out the coil, there was oil residue. So I cleaned it out, changed the spark plug and coil and seems to have helped resolve the issue... I'm hoping..

Thanks A-ziners!

3.2TLc

Hey Jaaaydeeem, when ya recently had replaced the plugs before, were there any signs of oil seepage ? Do ya have any idea where or how the oil may have gotten into that particular plug's cylinder ? Only just one ?

The coil should have still been ok, if they were all replaced along with the spark plugs previously. Ya may wanna recheck the "culprit" replaced plug in a few weeks to see if the oil comes back again.

jaaaydeeem

Good question. But when before I recently changed the spark plugs/coils, there were no signs of oil seepage. I know for sure because I had a misfire code for a really long time and took me a while to fix it. So I was constantly swapping out coils to find the bad one. And I know there was no oil seeping in anywhere. Also, I did notice that the spark plug that I replaced wasn't torqued as much as the others, so with it being loose, that might have been why oil was seeping in. And it was just that one. (the 4th cylinder). I checked all of them to make sure.

And I wanted to change the Coil just in case, but I have lifetime warranty on them so why not. Also I will be keeping tabs on that cylinder to make sure. Lastly, Thank you for the !! It is much appreciated!!

01tl4tl

a loose spark plug will blow some oil out, oil hitting contacts of coil could put the final hurt on it

uk8ntcme

sorry for the late reply but it has 120xxx miles and it just had the timing belt, plugs, transmission rebuilt and and new fuel pump. the check engine light was on for the iac system and egr. once I cleaned those it started with this acceleration problem. it only does it when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I can get it up to about 1800 rpm and then it drops all rpms for a few seconds and then it just picks up all of a sudden and will run perfect

01tl4tl

I would be looking at solder connections under relay box and the relay itself for fuel pump, also never trust new parts- ck new pumps connections- grounds

Do you get any dash lights when power fails? or prob occur on turns- bumps?
Then you may have the ignition switch issue, 99 had a recall to replace the electrical back part of switch once, and many owners have to replace it again 2- 5 times in the life of car
is it so hard to believe the problem continued a few model years? (reference: current recall on decade worth of a certain car makers ign switch)
go aftermarket 50 bucks on the switch
can inspect for signs of burn- darkening of plastic etc with a small mechanics mirror and see our DIY on the subject

wiggle the key and see if anything happens, many keys- more than 3 on ring? bad for switch
ours burns inside, melts the back, smoke from steering column FIRE etc

3.2TLc

Hey Uk8ntcme, Apparently you've had alot of recent work done. Hopefully, the tranny rebuild....t-belt, and fuel pump were all competently repaired. It appears as though the latest EGR and IAC cleaning is what may've potentially caused your problems.....by the way in which you've explained the sequence of events.

If everything was good after all of the other work, then recheck your EGR and IAC work. The problem could be something simple like a flipped intake gasket, loose vac or electrical connection ?

theDragon

Sounds electrical to me or maybe a loose connection.

uk8ntcme

a lot of the work was just regular maintenance other than the trans cause it went out. but I've gone over my work 10 times now with the egr and idle air and I don't see anything wrong so I'm starting to think it's just a coincidence and like you suggested that it's the ignition switch failing so i'll check it when ever I get some more time

uk8ntcme

ok I replaced the ignition switch and the main relay under the dash and it's still doing it. anybody have any other ideas? I was reading up on the tdc senors and it says they can make it act like that. anybody had issues with these before?