cansat

Hi there members,

I want to start by saying 'Hello'! I was on another forum, and unfortunately there is absolutely no support or active members so I thought I would post some questions here.

So I have some questions, I hope I can get most of them answered but no worries if I cant get them all done. If I am reposting or asking in the wrong section, I do apologize in advance.

My Car - 1999 Silver TL, 244000kms, no mods (just strip lights in the front and stereo system).

1) So this is my biggest issue. Recently, so about three months ago, came into a problem with my car where it would not turn on or it would rev really high for no reason when in park. It suddenly one day stopped and hasnt returned with that issue since. But it lead to a bigger issue now.

So the issue at hand is when I stop, or get close to stopping, and push on the throttle the car loses almost all power. I can still move, just a lot slower and the engine is reving at about 3-5k. So when I got this issue I brought it to PartSource to use the OBDII reader and see what it would say. It posted 'Cylinder 1 Misfire'. Now I read up on what this codes mean, but there is so many options of what it could be. I thought I would start by replacing plugs, havent done it yet, but has anyone had this issue before?

2) So in partial relation to my last question, for Spark Plugs do I have to use a certain kind? I have gotten mixed messages on the internet spanning from people swearing by the expensive plugs, but then others saying go cheap!?

3) Mirrors - SO CONFUSED on this one! When I bought my car we got spare side mirrors. The ones on my car would not heat up for those winter mornings. So about two months ago myself and my father decided to change up the mirrors. They were working fine before I changed them, but after changing just one mirror they both stopped working (Heat and movement). We checked the fuses and there is power going to the mirrors, but nothing happens!? So confused!

4) AC - Not such a huge deal, but I was just wondering what the AC should be blowing at in a TL? My girlfriends Honda Fit seems a lot colder than mine, although its newer and my AC is still cold. Blows at about 10 degree Celcius.

5) Headlights - I know this has been spoken of many times, but I thought I would ask in my post here to save time (sorry) - But is there cheaper alternatives to the TL headlights over paying like 90$-120$ per bulb?

6) Can parts from a 99-02 Accord be swapped with a 99 TL?

7) My cars interior is Tan, but the shifter nob is black...Is that normal? Is it expensive to buy black leather seats for the tl?

I want to thank anyone who can help me, or even anyone who simply reads my problems with the car so far!

Thank you very much!

WdRg

did that high reving happen during winter time or when its cold out ?

cansat

Oh wow, I feel kinda dumb that I actually put that there. Sorry, the reving we did infact fix a few months back. I just looked over my notes again. We cleaned the throttle and that fixed the issue on that one. But it was end of winter, barely any snow left on the ground when we were having the issues.

WdRg

I used to have '00 Nissan Maxima and I had the same problem. It would even shut off. Right until the engine would warm up. I had problem with idle system but it didn't really concern me because after 5 min of driving it would work perfectly.

2. http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1410310

I would spend some more money on spark plugs considering they are the ones who run your engine.

6. Black interior leather covers will cost you at least 100$ ea. Just change the shift knob.

cansat

Yeah, for me its completely random. Usually when I start the car its fine, then I drive about 3 blocks, then when I stop at the stop sign and then push the throttle it will bog and be slow until it changes to second gear. But its completely random! Not pattern at all. Usually I put the car in sports shift and keep it in 2nd gear as long as I can.

WdRg

Could be transmission problems, what kind of codes did pop up ?

3.2TLc

Try swapping that cylinder's coil with one near to it. If the misfire code comes up on a different cylinder, then you'll know that the coil is at fault. Plugs could cause a misfire along with poor fuel quality. try the simplest things first !

Skirmich

1.- The Rev problem could be a Typical sticky/dirty IACV this happened to me not long ago just clean TB and IACV (Cheap) and the problem must go away..

2.- For Spark Plugs do NGK (Anything NGK but V-Power) Use Double Platinum, or Iridium IX. 99 TLs Use Denso Iridium as Stock. Just Remember DONT USE TL-S Spark Plugs!!! Incorrect Heat Range!

Correct Plug Codes for TL-P:

Double Platinum: PZFR5E-11
Iridium IX: ZFR5FIX-11
Laser Iridium (Super Long Life): IZFR5F-11

TL-S uses All above but Heat Range is Colder by 1 Example: PZFR"5"E-11 instead of Heat Range "5" TL-S uses Heat Range "6" so its PZFR"6"E-11 you must not use TL-S heat Range or you will have some MPGs Issues and Shorter Plug life with no added power, Etc.

3.- Have you tried to Undo the Installation? Maybe your father forgot to Plug the Wires into the Mirrors??

4.- Almost all Honda/Acuras have an very Cold A/C systems, I have never met a Honda that wasnt chilly enough in Summer even older Civics go Stone Cold.... Perhaps you need a Refill + Service any Honda Dealer will do it for about 100 bucks....

5.- Yes any Aftermarket HID D2C bulb will work you can Check on Ebay for the Cheapest Route (But You can get a Defective Bulb) or go to Online Sellers! Example:
http://www.carhidkits.com/d2s-hid-bu...-pair-215.html
That pair goes for 99 bucks with 2 Year Warranty...

6.- We share alot of Parts with the Accord Platform you just need to cross-reference them, Mostly Brake Pads, Shocks, Alot of Suspension Parts, Etc.....

7.- Shifter knob only comes in Black with no Regard of Interior, And yes you can Swap the Black Interior with no major Mods...


Hope that Helps you Out bud! and Welcome to AZINE!!!!!

cansat

Okay thanks guys! I got two emails from the website and then nothing so I did not know that I had more replies.

I am going to try some of these fixes the next two weeks.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

You can't say knob on here now?? Since when is there a censor?? About the shift knob, there's a factory wood knob. There has to be because when I got mine it had an Acura wood knob in it already and this guy was the original owner he didn't add any mods to it. Try searching for one on eBay or a different site.

01tl4tl

you need to remove and inspect or just spend 50 and get a new ignition switch back- the electrical part
every 99 goes thru at least 3 in its life

use NGK Iridium spark plugs

Do the egr port and passage cleaning of the intake manifold -clogging causes running probs- easy diy

run seafoam thru gas tank 1 can to just under half tank,,repeat on next tank when down to 8 gal==just below half

replace PCV 10 bucks just because its old

01tl4tl

bulbs,,ptttt,, we have big problems with moisture in headlight lens killing ballast

Get a brand new waterproof kit with new everything you need for 59 bucks at www.hidextra.com
suggest 5000k color bulbs for best to see with

3.2TLc

Apparently, you've resolved the "revving in park" problem. But your code indicates a "misfire". This could be as simple as bad gas, try a quality fuel system cleaner in a 1/8 full tank, run it ! Also clean the intake, egr, and throttle body as previously suggested. After all of that is done, replace the air filter and spark plugs with oem quality parts. Run the car again, hopefully cleaning things up along with some new parts will remedy the runabilty issues. Is so, treat the Tl to some premium fuel ! If not, hopefully the car will throw a code to tell you what's ailing it. The misfire then would likely be a cylinder's coil pack. Try the simple stuff first.....!

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Lol I swear last time I read this thread it was saying shift **** instead of shift knob. Now I come back and it's fine and I look retarded. Go me!

cansat

Hey guys,

I appreciate everybodies comments up to this point! Thank you! I have not yet worked on it (hoping this upcoming weekend we have nice weather).

I had to get a new battery yesterday, but that didnt resolve anything. Went for a 850CCA so should be good for a while.

Also to comment, we did the air filters and put cleaner through the gas to see if that was a problem. Nothing went better though. I always use Premium gas at Shell. Somebody at Partsource said the TL engines use a higher octane than what 95% of gas stations use - Is that true? Cause theres one place in town that has like 97 or 98 Octane and he said he always goes there.

3.2TLc

About the "octane" rating of premium fuel for the TL. Acura recommends using premium, but I must admit that once the fuel prices started going up......I'd alternate regular and refill at half a tank with premium. I've experienced no ill effects in runabilty at all. Apparently the computer compensates the timing automatically for detonation.

Is the car displaying a check engine light ? If so, have the codes read and proceed from there. As previously mentioned, clean the egr and intake passageways per the "DIY" section. My bet is that you're car has a bad coil causing the problems you've stated earlier in this thread. Doing the simple stuff never hurts, but at some point more effort may be required in the trouble-shooting process. Remember that the car usually will display a code fault leading to the cause.

cansat

Okay cool. Thats good because I do the same. Ill put premium, then a little regular and so on.

So as for the people who are asking about codes, i picked up a OBDII reader and got only one code so far. Forget the code but it was a EGR Flow Insufficient. Its not showing up anymore (I did not do anything).
The misfire code is not popping up, but since I got the reader my car hasnt had the hesitation is usually does.

So much fun!

3.2TLc

Aha, the magic reader !
They are a good trouble-shooting tool. I think it's trying to tell you to clean the intake and egr passageways, as 01tl4tl had earlier suggested for you to try. I've done this a few times and it does help considerably. I remember the first time I done it shortly after buying the car....wow, was it gummed up with carbon residue ! Once it was cleaned out, the car idled and ran smoother. It's a good PM for our cars.

01tl4tl

egr lift code = clean egr system in intake manifold

dont run 87 octane,,car is made for 94, will accept 91 MINIMUM
87 forces timing to retard too much
lowers mpg,,net savings zero dollars
and more carbon loading, plug wear etc etc
follow maker orders and use right fuel
also use tier1 quality gas,,has more cleaners = that we can use!

cansat

Okay so we got the code P0401 EGR Insufficient flow.

So my dad is saying we need to replace the EGR valve, some gaskets and what not. Do you guys think thats the issue? There is no more misfire code anymore either :S

01tl4tl

sorry dad is off on this one,,but its a prob specific to the TL and most techs are fooled too

you need to perform the egr port and passage cleaning of the intake manifold
those are clogged and the flow is low

the egr valve gets lubed while off but not replaced, as long as its arm moves freely

simple diy under 2 hours with breaks and total caution

do buy 2 new TB spacer gaskets- one for each side
and an IACV cover gasket so you can service idle control for good measure

see diy thermoblock install and egr cleaning

reset ecu afterwards by removing CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for a minute

01tl4tl

110 bucks gets you a thermoblock spacer system,, which is really trick
lowers intake manifold air temp = better for car
www.outlawengineering.com for info

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

+1 for the outlaw thermoblock spacers. Easy install plus give you the opportunity to clean your intake and egr system.

cansat

Hey guys,

01tl4tl, could you clarify the process a little better? I think we got the got, but would be great to have clearer instructions. Not having to buy a gasket valve is huge since they cost a fortune.

Also, the thermablock requires that we drill into the piece eh?

And only questions my dad has is where the arm is? Our bet was the inside of the EGR, but just want to check. We should be working on it on Sunday, weather permitting.

Thanks everyone!

cansat

Hey guys,

Okay so this week I had a little free time and excellent weather so I got to work on my car with my dad. He broke his hand last weekend so that didnt help for speedy work, but we got it done.

We cleaned the throttle body and the EGR (and everything pretty much that could be cleaned) but my issue persisted.

I did notice some power gain, but then when I come to a complete stop at a stop sign.. BAM, barely any power and I creep until I hit 2nd gear, then it takes off.

Now, I was not sure because the explanation you gave was a little broad and the DIY for EGR cleaning did not specify, but were we supposed to take apart the EGR unit? (small thing that requires nothing to be taken out of the engine? We did not do that. Could it be the issue?

3.2TLc

[QUOTE=cansat;13911441]
So the issue at hand is when I stop, or get close to stopping, and push on the throttle the car loses almost all power. I can still move, just a lot slower and the engine is reving at about 3-5k. So when I got this issue I brought it to PartSource to use the OBDII reader and see what it would say. It posted 'Cylinder 1 Misfire'. Now I read up on what this codes mean, but there is so many options of what it could be. I thought I would start by replacing plugs, havent done it yet, but has anyone had this issue before?


Hey Cansat : Getting back to your original posting, concerning the losing power when attempting to move from a stopped position. Are you presently getting any codes ? If so, this would help considerably. My experience with the EGR being gunked up caused a poor inconsistent idle, not quite as severe as the current no power situation which you've described.

It almost seems as though the motor is starved for fuel. Check the fuel pressure. It could be the TPS acting up. Have you tried a quality fuel system cleaner yet ? Things like a vacuum leak or even the seal on the intake manifold can cause poor running. If one of the coils is on the edge, that could also be the culprit. You are going to have to eliminate the simpler stuff first.

01tl4tl

can- did you remove the entire intake manifold from the engine and place on workbench to clean out the length of the egr passage thru manifold?
plus each port to a cylinder,
,using 3 cans carb cleaner and a wire rod like a coat hanger or welding rod to poke crud out?

egr valve itself must be removed from manifold to clean the 2 holes under it-that feed the entire system
You were supposed to run a wire coat hanger thru those holes to the opposite end of manifold where they end

the egr valve operating arm is visable when removed- hit it with silicone or wd40 so it moves easily

dont need a gasket set..just 2 tb spacer gaskets and 1 iacv covr gasket so you can clean that too

also the top gasket of engine cover can be flipped on install and cause running probs- it looks ok when set on engine but its upside down
match to cover or it blocks egr port

for the cyl 1 misfire swap coils around and retest to see if code follows coil,,number 1 is pass side rear plug
MUST reset ecu after coil move by pulling the CLOCK fuse on pass end of dash for a minute
drive and feel, get codes read

01tl4tl

can what did you mean thermoblock requires drilling?
if you install the outlaw thermoblock kit= you change a few studs to longer ones, but no drilling

99s years ago had a recall to drill out the single egr port to 8mm and insert a smooth sleeve
it helped but was not a cure for the fact we have to clean ours every 75kmiles

cansat

Okay, so just want to be clear that we did do all the pulling out and cleaning of the parts. So, like I stated above my issue did come back - But a new code now showed up. My car has been acting up even more since we cleaned the EGR port but we got the code P0730. This code seems to be a..um well rather not so good issue, from what I read.

We just purchased another EGR Valve, and my dad is going to take apart the old one and maybe we might just put the new one in, but since the old code is not coming up im thinking the new code would be more important.

ARGGG so much issues!! aha

3.2TLc

The restricted passageways are what's causing the flow problem. How bad were they when you cleaned them ? Try working the EGR valve stem and oil it, but I doubt that a new one will cure your problems. Make sure that all of the vacuum hoses are not clogged or cracked. Check all of the connections for a potential leak. Reset and clear any ECU codes after doing the repairs. It's strange how the "misfire code" went away ! Keep plugging away at the simple stuff.

cansat

Hey guys,

So I want to thank everyone for assisting and helping me out with all of my issues. My dad took the car out for a drive today after we did some more work to it, and the cars transmission is slipping (only now he saw it first hand).

So I am going to drive it until it dies, but now all my pennies are going into buying a new car.

So I do thank everyone for helping me, it was much appreciated!

3.2TLc

Hey Cansat:
To possibly help it run a bit longer, consider doing the 3x3 drain and fill of the tranny's fluid using genuine Honda fluid. While you're at it, replace the external filter for the tranny and clean the shift solenoids. Less than $100 and a Saturday afternoon of bonding with your Dad is money well spent, along with a priceless opportunity to put a bandaid on the TL.