I may have posted/ask before.

My 2G TL has the 'hot start' problem, i.e. after driving for more than 30mins, if you let it sit for 15-20mins, it cannot be started. Starter ok, engine crank, and you can feel it is misfired, very rough and will stop in 3-4 seconds. Most of the time, I will just shut it off to prevent getting the CEL and TCS light.

What I have done?
1) 6 new NGK platinum spark plug
2) Test the coil, all doing fine
3) Clean the intake manifold, blah blah
4) Seafoam the intake, and fuel tank, didn't put it in the engine oil as I just changed the oil not long ago.
4) Check the main relay(aka fuel pump relay?), the soldering points are good.

So now the next possibility will be fuel pressure regulator? I heard that replacement cost of this option is >$1k. I can live with it if that's the case.

Any other suggestions?

As it is kinda of a TSB, can I check with Acura with free or big discount service?
As the transmission has be recalled before, I guess the ECU will be up to date. Can I just get a new fuel pressure regulator and replace the old?

How can I check whether my FPR is the newer design one or the old one?

 

I noticed that in my car maintenance report, the FPR, ECU, transmission have all been replaced due to the recall.

What other causes will contribute to this symptom?

 

the `main relay` is not the `fuel pump relay`
ck threads here--someone had same prob recently and it was the `fuel pump relay`
says where its located etc

visual on a relay is not testing it,,swap with one of same color to test function

 

ck trans bolt heads for blue paint--meaning its a warranty unit

Im not familair with all the recalls you mention,,
on the trans `recall to install external oil jet kit`,,if certain heat damage was found with a boroscope, then the trans was replaced as warranty
certain vins require a new ecu and it came with the trans

TSB are not recall or warranty!
Technical Service Bulletins are for techs,, shops/corp finds a problem and fix on strange symptoms--its added to the TSB reports, so other dealers dont waste time--they look up prob and fix in minutes

 

it would be very odd to see an actual fpr failure
Look around for other possibles,,its probably not the big dollar fix~

new to seafoam: repeat gas and vac port a 2nd time
gas at 2 oz seafoam per gal fuel = half tank of gas w/1 can
and half can thru MASTER VAC PORT not side vac line
also clean TB air plate for good measure,,front back, edges too
you cleaned/replaced pcv ?

 

It is me who asked.

According to the reply, the main relay contains the fuel pump relay inside.

How can I test it? Or I just spend few tens to get a new one?

 

If TSB 01-001 has already been done to your car, then you'd better go back to the dealer and have them re-test the FPR and ECU and explain to you WHY you are still having the heat soak rough idle issue. This TSB fix was supposed to empty the fuel line back into the gas tank when the car is shut off so it will prevent the gas from separating with the heat of the engine bay, thus causing rouge idle until the bad gas in the line is consumed.

Adding a good dose of fuel stabilizer into your gas tank will prevent this from happening.....but we can't be expected to run fuel stabilizer with every fill-up. So this has nothing to do with seafoam, carbon build-up or anything like that. This is an issue of winter gas and its separation. This only happens to me on warm days in the fall, winter and spring. After the gas companies remove winter gas from the supply, it will never happen again until late in the fall.

I have investigated every avenue to fix this problem, short of replacing the FPR and ecu (too much money).

 

will try to go back and ask.

So if I add the fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and if it solves this problem, 99% the problem is due to the FPR and ECU.

 

NOPE!
PGM-FI Relay Activates the Fuel Pump, Someone asked this question a couple of weeks ago so I had to check the Manual.

 

Does the fuel pump relay exist? If you say PGM-FI relay activates the fuel pump?

If it exits, where is it? Thanks.

 

There isnt a Fuel Pump Relay... The PGM-FI Relay activates everything related in the Fuel Injection system, Fuel Pump Included.
Double checked the Manual for that matter

 

That's what I want to indicate in my descriptions, although I got it wrong to some extend.

01tl4tl makes me feel that there is a "fuel pump relay".

I have taken out the PGM-FI relay and visually inspect, no bad soldering point(s).

 

Your pgm-f1 relay should be ok, but you can re-solder all its connections just so you won't have any future problems with it....that's what I did. If it was bad or acting erratically, your engine would stall, even while driving. This is obviously not the issue you are having, so no need to spend money replacing it.

 

Pretty Much a bad Fuel Pump will just DIE most of the Times = Stall every Crank.
The good thing is that the Fuel Pump isnt very expensive and its easily replaceable just Remove the Spare Tire cover and you should see the Fuel Pump Holder going into the Fuel Tank and some cables running out of it...

 

I think the fuel pump is ok as I have no issue when the car is cool/cold.

So it must be some particular component which refuses to work when its temperature is high.

 

Have you thought letting the CEL comes on, then check the code?

 

it is P0301, P0300, P030x, randomly misfire.

coz it cannot get enough fuel to run, will run very rough and stalled. Codes won't give you any useful information for this problem.

 

Exhaustive researching on my part has led me to conclude only that victus is right here ^^

I can quote all of the 80-billion (obviously literal) threads and posts here I've investigated but conclusion is quoted above.




For further proof - Temps hit mid/high 80's here in Atlanta, pumps switched back to summer blend and guess what?

Have not had one single stall out since.

 

Oh and forgot to mention as an added benefit - Fuel economy is up 1-2 mpgs.

 

Bingo! Same here!
I won't see this problem again until late fall when the stations start getting winter gas.

I have noticed that adding several doses of fuel stabilizer, or even seafoam to the gas tank will prevent this problem. I guess it doesn't allow the heat of the engine compartment to separate the gas in the fuel line.


Like I said before....the only "cheap fix" to this heat-soak problem is to figure out a way to empty the fuel line to the gas tank when the engine is shut off.

I am sure that somebody has the know-how to figure out how to do this.

 

I don't think emptying the fuel line would do much good. The problem is a lack of fuel in the fuel rail and lines due to the fuel boiling. Upping the fuel pressure raises the boiling point, the pcm changes the fuel map to correct for the increased pressure the regulator provides. This has been an exceptionally warm winter and early spring, and the problem usually lasts less than a minute, I'm telling my customers to ignore it. If you can get fuel with no ethanol, that helps a lot.

 

zmwang.. I i know it an old post.. I'm currently experiencing the same problem, 'hot starts' misfire in all cyl.

Did you resolve this problem..?

 

Im having the same issue ever since I did the type s swap along with the fuel pressure regulator that it came with. Thinking of switching back to the TLP regulator since it never had a hot start issue. If that fixes it ill post back

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...starts-757230/


Check that out. The person had a similar problem and he said changing o2 sensor fixed his problem.


I too have the same problem and am researching.

 

Common problems with our cars are bad main relay. And clogged EGR ports. I would check those out first if you have. Unfortunately for me, I've cleaned egr ports, replaced egr valve, replaced main relay, and my car will still have hard start after driving and then stopping for like 30 minutes.

 

there is an electrical spec for the O2 sensor, but its not uncommon to need one if the car has over 150kmiles

Many cars call for a new one every 50k, so once in our cars lifetime doesn't seem so bad
Its the front sensor that fails/gunks up, also called pre-cat or Bank 1 sensor in the parts book

Do buy the O2 sensor installation tool at parts stores, also get the stock DENSO brand - sold at any parts store as the standard replacement

denso is the OE supplier = no connector hassles- plug in- reset ECU via clock fuse remove for 1 minute and replace method, and play

 

I live in Colorado when they use the winter blend fuel it will start happening, it is a vapor lock condition if you let the car sit longer and cool down it will restart. At least that is what works for my 2000TL and what a pain.

 

that's not a fix!!! what about repairing the actual problem instead?

 

Well reporting back a year later, Its not the FPR. I replaced it with a known working one from my last engine that did not have this issue.
Im gathering evidence to solve this problem.

Some also mentioned ECT sensor, tried that (from my last engine that did not have this issue) same outcome. Could not come up with evidence that it was that either.

Im aiming to check the CMP sensors next since those control the injectors at start up according to the service manual. Don't waste your money on parts wait for solid evidence.

 

^^^Have you checked the fuel pressure to see if it bleeds down with car off, like a leaky injector might cause.

 

I have the similar issues with the hot start. I replaced my thermostat, ECT, radiator fan switch (Mishimoto - lower temp), seafoam, EGR, IAVC, plugs, coils, and re-solder the main relay. So far the re-solder of the main relay board seems to be culprit but it's been only a week.
I am waiting for the FPR because I did notice my plugs were not as dry as before and I get a gas smell from the exhaust during idle start-up. My car is old so replace these parts wouldn't hurt.

 

I am having same issue. Check out this thread, there are a lot info regarding this problem. https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...l-102k-849862/