Hello everyone I just got done(5:30a.m.) changing my Trnsmission in my 2nd gen, and when I went to pull it out of the garage it kinda only like half way engaged, then I put it in drive, to see if it would move about 2 feet forward, it did, but I had to like really hit the gas for it to move forward, could it be the fluid is low? the auto parts is all closed, so I couldn't fill it with fluid. Any input would be greatly Apreciated. I tried to explain the best way I can.....

 

Changing your transmission or transmission fluid?

I'll assume the latter.

This car is sensitive on the amount of fluid you put in. It must be between the 2 dots on the stick. Also, expensive Honda dw-1 is REQUIRED. Not z1 or dextron or anything else 'compatible' with Honda fluid.

 

Yes I changed the whole transmission unit, but when I went to move it out of the garage, it barely wanted to move. hoping its because its low on fluid to cause it to move like this. The only reason I moved the car was, half way into the garage.
I searched and searched for about a week, and was only able to come up with removal, nothing about installation AT ALL

 

Another thing I was wondering, was if it could be that replacement transmission is from a 00, and my car is a 02...

 

You were able to replace an entire transmission by yourself but can't check the dipstick to see if your transmission fluid level is low.. ?

 

You're Misunderstanding, Im trying to figure out if the reason i had to give it extra gas for it to move was the result of having low fluid, I know its low, because it had to be drained in order to remove or install. I know all cars are different, and they all show reactions to low fluid....

 

Lets start with how much fluid did you put in?
capacity is 7.3 qts of Honda dw-1

was the torque convertor new, or used straight from junkyard?
It can hold ~3 qts of old fluid in it!!

So you might be under or over, start by looking at the dipstick

 

Yes, low fluid level will cause the trans to slip as you described.

 

 

- I didn't put any in yet. Does it have to be dw-1 from the dealer, or would Castrol transmax dw-1 work?
- the torque converter was swapped over from the old transmission that had a hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear when leaving from a complete stop, and shifted fine every other gear besides that and showed no signs of letting go or any false Neutrals. I'm giving the car to my younger Sister for her first car, so I want it to be as close to perfect as possible.

 

Never run your AUTOMATIC trans on low fluid.... Regardless of trans, make, car, world.. Its a recipe for clutch pack destruction.
Use only HONDA DW-1 only a few aftermarket fluids works on Honda Autos.

 

For the future, it's good to know that you have the skills to do things like this - keep in mind that our trans have a high failure rate so if/when this fails in the future I'd put in an AV6 from '06-'07 honda Accord - the car will last through armageddon.

 

Thanks good to know.
I'm not to familiar with automatic trans care as I tend to stay away from them, I'm More of a Manual German car person, but I happen to love the TL platform, such fun to drive. These may seem like dumb questions, but I just wanted to make sure I didn't install a transmission, that was in worse condition than the unit I replaced. thats alot of work for someone not familiar with major Acura repair like myself using basic tools alone without help. If this was a VW I do those transmissions with my eyes closed.

As far as running it I moved it about 3 to 4 ft, because the car was half way into my garage, hopefully that isn't enough to bother anything to bad..

 

Thanks I found this Out after I bought the replacement. From what I understand There's a hole that needs to be drilled, or some type of modification of that nature.

 

An automatic transmission is fluid coupled. Make sense? This is HoF worthy already.

 

Its fine dude! we all been there.. Just make sure to not even start your engine with the trans on Low Fluid.. The trans uses the ATF to self lubricate, Running on low atf fluid will toast the little fluid inside and burn the clutch packages.

 

That this is a great relief, and even bigger help.

PS. is there a Specific coolant I should refill with?
I only ask, because the German cars use G12 which I can only get from the dealer, there's No substitute besides water to get you to the dealer and back home.

 

You can likely use aftermarket coolant however I prefer to use the Honda/Acura type2 stuff. ..but I've owned/own a few legends with finicky cooling systems and headgaskets so those cars really should run the type 2.

 

IF it says approved for Honda then it should be ok
BUT
many prefer the coolant, ps fluid and auto trans fluid be direct from Honda dealer or aftermarket store selling their products
Certain parts of the TL are picky!

 

Yah I prefer OEM Type 2 as well.. Not only it gives piece of mind but I also dig the blue color a lot.

 

and as we all know, how the maintenance makes you feel is what its about~

 

^ I have to be honest here... The Blue Color sells me completely to the Type 2 OEM A/F.... It is my favorite color after all..
I cant stand the green fluorescent A/F, I rather have the Preston Orange A/F over the Green any day of the universe.. But Blue? BITCH TAKE MA MONEY!

 

So Blue it is then. The reason I asked about the coolant is, the replacement transmission leaked a lil bit of blue out of the shiny looking round thig-a-ma-jig I guess its their failed attempt at a tranny cooler, and the coolant that was in the system in the car looked like dexcool, I have to admit the blue did look a lil neat, it was the first time I saw it...

 

Its listed as a trans warmer, not cooler (though once up to operating temps im sure it helps to wick away some heat)

And as said before, NEVER drive or start the motor with a trans low on fluid. Did you replace the torque converter as well with the swap? If so that would most likely have been drained and should have been filled before instal. Starting the engine and even worse trying to drive it (even if it was only 2-3 ft) is a big no no.

 

As stated before I used the Torque converter from the old transmission, it still had fluid in it. Oh man if I have to take this trans back out I will myself. Without hesitation, If I had a transmisson jack I wouldn't really mind I think..

 

Is it ok to use Castrol Transmax dw-1 for now I really can't make it to the dealer

 

at your own risk! Should be ok as long as it says acura approved

 

oh yes I made very sure of that. When the trans fliud is being drained, does it also drain the torque converter? I Googled the very question, and came up with nothing.

 

No it does not. We usually do a 3x3 drain and refill. Meaning draining is about 3qts at a time but it doesn't get what's in the torque converter. So you drive it around some hitting all gears, then drain and repeat 2 more times. This gets most of the old fluid out of the whole system. So in your case, if old fluid was in the torque converter, you may want to do this method to make sure all new fluid is in there

 

The torque converter is NOT drained when you drain the trans. Only fluid in the trans case is, which is about ~3 quarts. Use your dipstick to make sure you have the proper amount in!

 

Total capacity of the transmission is 7.6 quarts, but plan on purchasing at least 10 quarts for the 3 drains and fills.

 

I know to use the dipstick to check the level, I think couple of other people such as yourself is misunderstanding the thread, I'm far from car illiterate, just un familiar with automatic transmission changing all cars have different proceedures, and or processes that needs to be done. For example German cars have Seal transmission units so there isnt any dipstick, or anything to check the level...

 

Thanks for specifying, I was reading on the 3x3 the other night, but they didn't explain it as doing a lil driving, they were just saying just drain and refill 3x's, but I guess that would've been a lil common sense there that I missed.

 

see the trans service threads for help

Of the total (iirc its 7.3 not 7.6) When you drain trans ~1/2 of that total is stuck in the TC, allowing a typical 3 to 3.5 qts to drain

Drive around the neighborhood using each gear up and down a few times (include PRN) - in 5 minutes, max speed needed 35mph
then drain and refill with 3 more, repeat

The idea is push the old fluid out of the TC and thru the various paths inside the trans, making its way to the drain!

Don't forget to replace the external atf spin on filter, looks like an engine oil filter under battery tray area

 

there is no telling what crud was left sitting inside the old TC when you swapped it over
Most people go with a rebuilt unit that has been scrubbed clean
Also want to clean the external solenoids screens= for smoother shifting

 

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and actually this is my first post. I need some help with my 2002 tl type s, its has 110k miles. About a little over a year ago my transmission started acting up and sometime wouldn't shift from 3rd to 4th gear, I either go to sport shift mode and manually shift up the gear or released the gas pedal and wait for the rpm dropped down to 1000 and the car start drive back to normal, always happened when accelerating from a completed stop. One other thing that I noticed its that when the gear shifting from 2-3 or 3-4 there is a jolt and also the rpm will raise 1000 above normal and quickly jump down. Few months ago engine light came on with dtc p0730, cleared the code and i did 3x3 drained and filled with redline d4 atf and also replaced all the solenoids but that didn't help, fluid seem dark just after 10 minutes drive from each drain and filled. Couple days ago while getting on the freeway engine light came on and also vsa light as well, check the dtc and p0740 came on at 68 mph. This morning on my way to work the transmission acting up on me 4 times, got stuck in third. I've been reading on this forum and seem like I need a rplacement transmission. Any information will greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

Hi ttvegas2002, welcome to Azine, you came to the right place.

It sounds to me like your transmission is about to bite the dust. How many miles on yours?

Ordinarily people would typically say you're SOL but fortunately we have instructions around here on how to find an '06-'07 Honda Accord AV6 transmission which will bolt right into your car. You can find them on wrecked cars for about $800 and install for about $500-$600 and be done with transmission issues FOREVER.

 

Thank you Chojun, mine has 110k miles, I thinked I just found out my 3rd gear is gone. Car wouldn't drive in third gear now. Can you tell me about the 06-07 3.0l accord tranny? What does it meant by VIN M (5th digit)

 

Yeah if you're new to the technical side of owning a 2g TL, our cars' transmissions have a flaw which causes the 3rd gear clutch pack to burn up. The shedding material on the clutch pack clogs everything up as the transmission is gasping for its last breath, which causes all of the shifting oddities that people experience before it gives up the ghost.

I thought the AV6 thread was stickied - apparently it's not - any mods around here know why not?

Here is the best one that I've been able to find:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...n-swap-905115/

You'll want to print these instructions out for your mechanic or refer them to that page. There is TONS of info around here about the AV6 swap, and the swap has as far as I can tell been universally successful. If you prefer a stick/manual then there's even instructions on how to do that, too

Let us know if you go down the AV6 route so we can celebrate with you as whenever a 2G TL gets its AV6 one of satan's minions dies.

 

When you say "Replaced all the solenoids"? Using the diagram as reference below, which solenoids did you replaced?