I am getting all different answers. DO you adjust the valves on this 3.2L VTEC engine. In a Chiltons manual it says that they cant be adjusted. The dealer said the enging has to be cold to adjust the valves. A mechanic said the engine had to be warm to adjust them due to metal stretching. Can you set me straight here?

 

They CAN be adjusted, i do it cold.

 

Yes they can be adjusted. I believe the Valve Lash is .22mm +/- .02mm on the intake side and .30mm +/- .02mm on the exhaust. this can also be found on the underside of the hood. Adjsutment preffered when cold but in all reality any temp under 100 degrees is okay according to honda.

 

Engine should be overnight cold.

 

agreed engine should be left overnight cold, and then adjust the valves. under normal conditions you may find exhaust valves tight and intake valves lose, adjust them to spec.

Whats the mileage on the engine?

 

dont let that tech work on your car

under 100,,to get that it has to sit several hours if its been run more than a few minutes

The most accurate measure will be cold- so the same metal temp is present for each valves adjustment = precision

a standard `Go- No Go` feeler guage is preferred, again for accuracy

 

Around 87K Miles on the engine.

 

its called for at the 105kmile service `as needed`
but people dont understand that means `insert the feeler guage- if its not on spec then
`its needed to adjust`!!
they will go by old school method of loud ticking, none heard so job not done

Others will do it based on miles- and have documented the before and after settings on here for us to referance

Its way smarter to stay ahead of this, gas prices being what they are and valve adjustment being all-important to the operation of a fuel injected engine

If you have done any valve adjust with the `wrench on locknut-screwdriver adjust on top` design, you have done all the training needed

Here is your new best friend- the azine DIY master list
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

Suggest you run half a can of `seafoam` thru oil for at least 30 minute drive,
then change warm- new oil and filter BEFORE the valve adjustment
That will get all the surfaces spotless for best job on setting to spec

 

while you are in there:
the EGR port and passage system inside the intake manifold
needs to be cleaned out with carb cleaner/solvent and a wire rod,
poked all the way thru the length of the manifold and out the other end ports

thats needed every 75kmiles and isnt found in the repair books or maitenance schedule
You will have plenty of crud buildup by now

remember the Throttle Body- clean its air plate on both sides and edges, lube return springs,,,lube entire throttle cable
Good idea to flip TB over and remove iacv/Idle control valve to clean its air slit

new spark plugs if you didnt do that yet, anytime after 70 they are ready
use NGK Iridium IX or NGK Iridium (plain) or NGK platinum if they dont have those.
plat was stock in gen2 but irid is gen3 stock = better for us too
8 bucks each, dont try to use some cheap stuff instead- wont work