1999 EGR Port Cleaning
Hi TLer's :
After a long and complicated road, I finally resolved my check engine light issue.
After changing out a charcoal canister and EVAP shut valve, then acquiring a code reader, which led to the discovery of a EGR Lift Insufficient fault, I now have no codes on my DTC. After cleaning the EGR port, I have some additional tips that might help someone in the future.
In removing the fuel/air plenum, it may not be necessary to remove the connections on the throttle body (TB) as the plenum can be removed from the TB by lifting up on the other side and sliding the TB off, freeing the plenum from the engine.
Also, I found a significant amount of black crud in the intake manifold EGR port that needed to be "dug out". I also sprayed the crab cleaner down into this port the make sure I got it all.
Hope this helps others with this same issue.
smartypants
After a long and complicated road, I finally resolved my check engine light issue.
After changing out a charcoal canister and EVAP shut valve, then acquiring a code reader, which led to the discovery of a EGR Lift Insufficient fault, I now have no codes on my DTC. After cleaning the EGR port, I have some additional tips that might help someone in the future.
In removing the fuel/air plenum, it may not be necessary to remove the connections on the throttle body (TB) as the plenum can be removed from the TB by lifting up on the other side and sliding the TB off, freeing the plenum from the engine.
Also, I found a significant amount of black crud in the intake manifold EGR port that needed to be "dug out". I also sprayed the crab cleaner down into this port the make sure I got it all.
Hope this helps others with this same issue.
smartypants
Why did you change out the charcoal canister and EVAP shut valve. I didn't think that would be related to the intake manifold. I have code P1457 on my 99 TL. I need to have some troubleshooting done to see what needs to be replaced. I keep reseting it every couple of days. It seems that the EVAP shut valve fails the most. Will the issue with the intake manifold casuse the EVAP code or is that a separate code?
Thanks
Thanks
Hi Roscoe :
As I said, long and complicated. When the CEL first came on, I took it into the stealership and was charged $120 (diagnostic fee...give me a break !) just to read the code and they pronounced, on paper, I needed an evap canister and shut valve. Since the car was running fine and I knew I wasn't damaging anything, it was a couple of years before I got around to ordering installing the parts. I installed the parts and reset the CEL, but the light returned after a couple of days.
Since I didn't know 100% for sure if I had the same code, I knew I needed to verify code before I blindly replacing anymore parts. Rather than paying the stealership another $120, I went and bought a reader for $135...the months continue to roll by. Once I got the reader, I discovered I was getting a 1491 and not a 1457.
Could it have been two codes (1491 & 1457) all along and the earlier parts corrected the 1457 ? I have no idea as I couldn't read the codes myself. I find it hard to believe a tech would mis-read the code intentionally although the 1491 was covered under an extended warranty and the 1457 was not. Could the stealership be that predatory ? I have no evidence either way but I'm left with a suspicion of being taken advantage of.
I have cleaned to EGR port and am still getting a 1491 which I have discussed in another thread. I'm following the advice to remove the EGR valve and clean underneath the valve and lubricate the part. Hopefully this will be the end of the saga.
I warned you this was complicated !!
smartypants.
As I said, long and complicated. When the CEL first came on, I took it into the stealership and was charged $120 (diagnostic fee...give me a break !) just to read the code and they pronounced, on paper, I needed an evap canister and shut valve. Since the car was running fine and I knew I wasn't damaging anything, it was a couple of years before I got around to ordering installing the parts. I installed the parts and reset the CEL, but the light returned after a couple of days.
Since I didn't know 100% for sure if I had the same code, I knew I needed to verify code before I blindly replacing anymore parts. Rather than paying the stealership another $120, I went and bought a reader for $135...the months continue to roll by. Once I got the reader, I discovered I was getting a 1491 and not a 1457.
Could it have been two codes (1491 & 1457) all along and the earlier parts corrected the 1457 ? I have no idea as I couldn't read the codes myself. I find it hard to believe a tech would mis-read the code intentionally although the 1491 was covered under an extended warranty and the 1457 was not. Could the stealership be that predatory ? I have no evidence either way but I'm left with a suspicion of being taken advantage of.
I have cleaned to EGR port and am still getting a 1491 which I have discussed in another thread. I'm following the advice to remove the EGR valve and clean underneath the valve and lubricate the part. Hopefully this will be the end of the saga.
I warned you this was complicated !!
smartypants.
I bought my TL 2 years ago with a CEL showing EGR insufficient flow and EVAP problems, did the work today got it all fixed! I know there is NOTHING for a good guide on this, but here is some pics.
All you have to do is disconnect the battery (need to do anyways to reset computer, might as well do now), then remove the plastic cover on the engine (4 screws) and then you will see the intake runner assembly (big oval aluminum piece can't miss it) there is 10 or 11 bolts (12mm) that you will need to remove. Pull everything off the throttle body and remove the intake/tb as one piece. In my pictures I show the EGR hole that needs to be cleaned out! It will probably be fully clogged... I used carb cleaner and a wire brush and an air compressor to clean it out. Put it all back together and replace battery cable. it took a 5 minute run to stop the engine from cycling revs and WHAAAM no CEL, feel increase in power and will see about fuel economy!
pics are from my phone but turned out pretty good!

All you have to do is disconnect the battery (need to do anyways to reset computer, might as well do now), then remove the plastic cover on the engine (4 screws) and then you will see the intake runner assembly (big oval aluminum piece can't miss it) there is 10 or 11 bolts (12mm) that you will need to remove. Pull everything off the throttle body and remove the intake/tb as one piece. In my pictures I show the EGR hole that needs to be cleaned out! It will probably be fully clogged... I used carb cleaner and a wire brush and an air compressor to clean it out. Put it all back together and replace battery cable. it took a 5 minute run to stop the engine from cycling revs and WHAAAM no CEL, feel increase in power and will see about fuel economy!
pics are from my phone but turned out pretty good!

Hi 03rejo :
Glad you're code free !
Not to rain on your parade but the EGR and EVAP are completely different systems and cleaning the EGR port will not cure EVAP issues. Also, you may not see these codes for a few days and with EVAP issues it could even take up to a month for the light to come on.
Hopefully you will be fortunate and your issues are solved.
BTW, my 1491 coded has not returned for some weeks now and I think I can finally declare my problem resolved !
smartypants.
Glad you're code free !
Not to rain on your parade but the EGR and EVAP are completely different systems and cleaning the EGR port will not cure EVAP issues. Also, you may not see these codes for a few days and with EVAP issues it could even take up to a month for the light to come on.
Hopefully you will be fortunate and your issues are solved.
BTW, my 1491 coded has not returned for some weeks now and I think I can finally declare my problem resolved !
smartypants.
Last edited by smartypants; May 18, 2010 at 10:47 AM.
I bought my TL 2 years ago with a CEL showing EGR insufficient flow and EVAP problems, did the work today got it all fixed! I know there is NOTHING for a good guide on this, but here is some pics.
All you have to do is disconnect the battery (need to do anyways to reset computer, might as well do now), then remove the plastic cover on the engine (4 screws) and then you will see the intake runner assembly (big oval aluminum piece can't miss it) there is 10 or 11 bolts (12mm) that you will need to remove. Pull everything off the throttle body and remove the intake/tb as one piece. In my pictures I show the EGR hole that needs to be cleaned out! It will probably be fully clogged... I used carb cleaner and a wire brush and an air compressor to clean it out. Put it all back together and replace battery cable. it took a 5 minute run to stop the engine from cycling revs and WHAAAM no CEL, feel increase in power and will see about fuel economy!
pics are from my phone but turned out pretty good!


All you have to do is disconnect the battery (need to do anyways to reset computer, might as well do now), then remove the plastic cover on the engine (4 screws) and then you will see the intake runner assembly (big oval aluminum piece can't miss it) there is 10 or 11 bolts (12mm) that you will need to remove. Pull everything off the throttle body and remove the intake/tb as one piece. In my pictures I show the EGR hole that needs to be cleaned out! It will probably be fully clogged... I used carb cleaner and a wire brush and an air compressor to clean it out. Put it all back together and replace battery cable. it took a 5 minute run to stop the engine from cycling revs and WHAAAM no CEL, feel increase in power and will see about fuel economy!
pics are from my phone but turned out pretty good!


i can usually find anything online, searched for some step by step but never found a pic... got the step by step from a mdx 3.5 guide. as for codes i'm only hoping i guess... it's optimism beaming out my every orifice now that summer is here... every other time I reset the computer the codes were back wthin the first 20 miles, and I put 180 on since the reset so far so lucky.
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i can usually find anything online, searched for some step by step but never found a pic... got the step by step from a mdx 3.5 guide. as for codes i'm only hoping i guess... it's optimism beaming out my every orifice now that summer is here... every other time I reset the computer the codes were back wthin the first 20 miles, and I put 180 on since the reset so far so lucky.
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