JIGS

Yes. 2 and 4 is reversed in the drawing. this way 3 and 4 can be either side of the bulb, which is what the table shows.

As of the continuity test, i checked the continuity between 1 and 3 in middle position, with no power, and it is fine.
Please see the video below, for the whole test.

TLer trash

Your new pictures of the switch make it clear that the factory diagram is, in fact wrong. It didn't make sense to me before, so I chose to ignore it. You should too. Focus on the one thing that is wrong. You only have a problem in the middle position. For now, let's assume the other 2 positions are ok. If you measure resistance across 1 and 3, with the connector off, you will be measuring the resistance of the bulb. You have already said you have power at 3. Unless you have substantial resistance between 2 and 1, your problem is further along the ground circuit. With your negative lead grounded, check voltage at 1 and 3 with the door open. It will be 12v on 3, and 0v at 1. With the door closed it should be 12v at 3, and 12v at 1. It won't be, because you have a problem with the ground circuit that terminal 1 is connected to. Do the voltage tests with the housing connected, bulb installed.

JIGS

wooooohhhhhh.....
Finally after multiple pictures and video, i was able to convince atleast a few of you that the table does not match the drawing.

i will do the voltage tests tonight.

JIGS

did the voltage check.
Door open.
Ground to 3 = 12V
Ground to 1 = 3V
Door closed
Ground to 3 = 12V
Ground to 1 = 3V

Also did the passenger Multiplexer wires check as per note #34.
everything is fine.

only thing that is not checked is the multiplexer itself.

JIGS

To update on this, i ordered a used multiplex unit for the passenger side from ebay. it was $20 and the guy also sent me the the passenger side fuse box assembly (which i did not use).

I did not replace the whole fuse box assembly, as that would be too much work, so i decided to remove the multiplex unit from the fuse box assy, and replace just that. Getting the multiplex unit out of the fuse box is a bit of a pain, as it is really tight and nothing to hold on to pull it out. there are 2 tabs in the front and 2 tabs at the back that holds the multiplex unit. the front tabs are easy to release but the back tabs are really difficult, as the 24 pin socket that connects to the fuse box is too tight. you cant unlock the tabs and pull the multiplex unit at the same time. while prying i broke the 2 tabs on the back, and even then it took some effort to get the multiplex unit out. same thing happened with the one i bought from ebay. broke both the back tabs to get the multiplex out.

So finally after replacing the multiplex unit, the switch started working as normal. I thought it was done.
But when i tried to lock my car, it would not lock. so i had to reprogram both my keys/transmitters with the new unit. i guess the codes for the transmitters are stored in the passenger side multiplex unit. programming it is a bit tricky as you have to time it perfectly. below is the programming details.

thats the end of this problem. i hope there is nothing else tied to this multiplex unit, which i am not aware of..... as yet.

Thank you all for your help, troubleshooting this issue.

01acls

Nice job dude, glad you got that figured out.

You are one lucky sob. That multiples is a little under $300. The left side one is $350. lol

JIGS

i found others on ebay for around $50, but this was going cheap so i bought it..

JIGS

I forgot the add the part number for the multiplex unit.
As per the manual the part number for the passenger side multiplex unit is 38850-S0K-A02 SYSTEM UNIT, MULTIPLEX CONTROL(PASSENGER SIDE).
But since on the unit itself, the part number on the sticker is 38010-S0K-A020M1, it is also sold as this part number.
Or it might also be sold with the BOX ASSY., FUSE (PASSENGER SIDE); 38210-S0K-A01.