My car is making an odd wuhwuhwuh noise from the front .. I do have a bad axle in the front driver side that iam replacing this week.. That was causing alot of vibration.. Now im getting this noise is it axle related or is it a wheel bearing! ?? Thanks ahead of time

 

ck for wheel movement with the car jacked up

cant be sure without a stethascope, and the other known prob fixed

 

Okay ill check

 

Also when i break i get a vibrating inthe wheel axle related? I dont want to think its a rotor because it only does it when slowing down from fast speeds and idk lol its like one thing after another by the time im done i will replace everything!

 

i got no movement in the wheel while jacked up

 

sounds like a bearing issue, but with all the other issue you have you need to get them fixed first just to eliminate them from the list.

 

if the cv bearing has been bad a long time and you keep driving-
its vibration, and resistance to normal motions, can take a toll on the hub bearing

at this point- may as well replace it while the system is apart for axle
see diy section

 

BarryTL,

Is the vibration also felt in the steering wheel? Also, do you get a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal? If yes, then the problem may be warped rotors.

My wife's 02TL has consistently run into warped rotors ever since we bought it new. Each time, the rotors were resurfaced them and they run smooth for 30-40K miles. So far, I've gone through two sets of Acura rotors with each being resurfaced once before swapping them out; all under warranty. The current set are NAPA replacement rotors and pads. Same problem...pulsating pedal and vibrating steering wheel.

I'm beginning to wonder if an ill adjusted front hub or bearings are the real culprits.

Any thoughts?

 

hub runout, crud on mounting surface
acura rotors not very good,,not worth resurfacing
napa varies in quality depending on maker and price

any good mechanic can listen with a stethascope and find out if bearings are at fault

even blasting the lug nuts on can warp the rotors!

 

do you flush the brake fluid every few years? make sure calipers are operating properly?

 

Hey you guys are good; much better than average I must say.

Should I replace all below items during one all-out, jacked-up, event!

2003 TL-Premium
155,000 orig miles

Must Do:
1) Brakes, pads, rotors (rotors are 155k miles old; finally at min. thickness.
2) CV joints, boots, and Axles (getting some whining noise; small grease leak at outer boot)
3) Wheel Bearings x 4 wheels ( getting some of that Wha..Wha..wha noise)
4) Shock Absorber: (maybe even stock ~$80; lasted a long time; >150k)
Question: Are there really choices for better ride or/or performance?
5) Replace brake fluid with my new vac pump.

Maybe Dos:
a)Sway Bushings: Done once at 60K miles

b)New Calipers: Are those two pistion calipers really any better? Does anyone had a joyful, reliable, and lengthy, braking experience with the alternate calipers that supposedly bolt right on. Correct? (03 TL) Is there more brake feel? More even forces applied to pad? [My 67' Mustang Fastback GTA actually had 4 pistons on each side, whatever that means?]

c) New tie rod ends (inner/outer) One side was already done this summer.
d) Stainless Steel Brake Lines.

Check; maybe leave alone if okay:
a) Balljoints,
b) Control Arms,
c) Bushings,
d) Strut Hats
e) Hardware


Question1:Which items should be Dealer-only? which should be aftermarket? Suggested parts and URLs are very welcome?

Question 2: Is there something else I should check or overhaul while I've got the front end disassembled? (those AT switches?, or solenoids?, ATF filter, etc.)

 

why not have a mechanic look at it on the lift for needed parts and replace those

legend calipers rock,, and for the same price as TL calipers!!
more pistons = better force distribution to pads
search or scroll for the threads on subject,
I have them with RacingBrake brand pads and rotors-from MrHeelToe on here,,-now it stops like it should!!
SS lines with them YES, dont swell like rubber so always good pedal feel
and same result from your input to caliper regardless of brake temps

 

for the total cost you are looking at- are you keeping the TL as a 400 kmile car??
then its worth making everything right at once, a new car when done

are you DIY or paying someone or someplace?

 

clean all the trans shift selenoids/pressure switches and new filter

 

Yep, It would be a DIY job. Do I denote a lack of confidence in 03DaytonTL? Just kidding.

I estimate about $1200 +- $300 parts. Dealer service would be impractical and cost-prohibitive. Plus I wouldn't haven't any fun with my tools =, including my new Alum Racing Jack, Aluminum Jack Stands (they may fail, but they look pretty) and 24" Breaker Bar. Not to mention my new vac pump that just sucks...fluid. The DIYs are great. I use that as my first recourse (next to my Acura SErvice Manual)