I got my DC headers installed by a buddy of mine today and he also tried to install my UR Crank Pulley set.

But he told me he couldn't get the crank pulley off - something about the bolt being on there really tight. Did anyone else have this problem?

He also said the 2nd gen TL-S crank pulley was a harmonic balancer type of pulley. I thought the TL-S stock crank pulley didn't have a harmonic balancer?

 

There is a thread about this- you need a special tool or
use a long breaker bar against the ground and turn the
key to start a few times and that gets it loose

A few users report slight vibration with the UR pulley- not enough to not run it though!

 

There are?

 

Yes its on tight. VERY tight. You either need the tool or the above method. And NO he TL DOES NOT have a harmonic Dampener pulley. Do a search on this subject.

 

Yeah Fsttyms1, I know. I've searched and read all the posts on it, but this guy swears that it is a harmonic dampener pulley.

Well I'm too afraid to do this myself, and the guy couldn't get it off with a breaker bar... said the breaker bar started to bend. Guess I'll have to ask Heeltoe if he can do it.

Thanks though.

 

Marcus will hook you up no prob- he has done many of them
Call him - fastest way to get an appointment 1-949-295-1668

Kris- I was reading a thread recently- maybe gen 3 possibly 6mt cars???-where there were some with minor vibration in the gear shift after pulley install.
No one was willing to part with the pulley so it cant be that bad!
You have no probs with it correct?

 

Where is he located?

 

so, the TL stock crank pulley isnt a dampener that absorbs engine vibrations, like most older honda crank pulleys? the 4 cyl engines all use damper crank pulleys, and lightened, undampened pulleys like UR etc are not recommended because they dont absorb the vibrations..

 

Correct. The TL DOES NOT use a dampener pulley.

From their site

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that makes them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke length, displacement, inline, V configurations, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

 

Bravedemon, were those the 3 bolt headers that you bought? I think you may have bought them from me, right? How did everything fit? Any noises?

And the stock crank pulley is not a "harmonic balancer".

 

Yeah excelerate, they were the 3 bolt flanges. I'm only on my second day of driving on them. I plan to put up a post with a review and pics of them installed in a couple days.

Thanks again Excelerate. Was a pleasure doing business with you. Now only if I can find someone who can install the Crank Pulley here in Orange County.

 

MrHeelToe is in Mission Viejo, hopefully not too far from you- right off I-5
1-949-295-1669
Tell him your from Acurazine

 

MrHeelToe is in Mission Viejo, hopefully not too far from you- right off I-5
1-949-295-1668
Tell him your from Acurazine

 

the crank pulley is so easy to get off. i recommend doing it yourself. buy yourself a craftsman ratchet and just rest it on the subframe. pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine and the bolt will loosen up. i'll measure how long my ratchet handle is. i used a craftsman 1/2" drive and it was just the right length to sit on the subframe.

tightening it up is more of a problem, you might have to devise some sort of holding tool to keep the pulley from spinning as you turn the tightening ratchet.