EastBayTL

Howdy folks, I've read several threads here regarding cam mods on our 2nd Gen TL's and the findings were less than what I guess we might have hoped for. Today I got an email from a guy that seemed really knowledgeable regarding the J32 engine in my 99 TL. He shared with me that he just recently purchased a rebuilt 3.2L J32 engine for his CL. He described it as a 3.2L that is stroked to a 3.7L, and this is how he broke it down:

Pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft are all Honda factory parts. Valvetrain parts are available from super tech or KMS. Mine are new Honda springs that are stiffer and lighter, from the new TL-S. Cam options are new TL-S cams or a Bisimoto regrind.

The cams out of the TL-S from 07-08 are easy to identify because they are hollow cams. They do require a spacer on the end so all the belts line up though, and the heads need a little bit of relief work to clear the lobes, but they rev really fast due to being hollow and they are factory reliable which is why I chose those over the Bisimoto regrinds. They focus more on the middle of the power band too, much better for DD, the Bisimoto cams need to rev a lot higher to make power.

I thought it would be a good idea to throw this out to the forum for some feedback from folks that are more knowledgeable than myself. It sounds great to me especially since I have read that some other owners have swapped out their intake manifolds and throttle bodies for the newer 07-08 engines.

I'm all ears fellas!

ParaSurfer1979

Wasn't there a thing somewhere that RL cams were more agressive that the TL's?

EastBayTL

OK, fellas. Here's where I'm at with my 99 TL so far:

I installed a AEM cold air intake, DC headers, and APEXI cat back exhaust a while back.

Today I just got the car back after having an Eibach Pro Kit with Eibach sway bars installed along with the Stop Tech drilled big break kit, matching drilled Stop Tech rear rotors, steel braided Stop Tech brake lines all around (thank you Casey at XLR8!), new TSW 18" x 8" wheels with Hankook 235/40 ZR tires put on the car. I have to say this thing rides like frickin' wet dream! Any resemblance to the stock ride is entirely deleted. This Acura now rides like a new BMW M class sedan. I just fell in love with my car all over again.

Next week I will have a test pipe put in to replace the cat, get the vales adjusted, and have a lightweight UR underdrive crank pulley (I found it used on eBay just this week) and brand new XLR8 P/S and Alt pulleys installed.

My car currently has 178,500 miles on it and I bought it with only 3,000 miles from the dealer in 1999. Cosmetically, the car is immaculate.

After all this, I am starting to feel like I owe it to the ride to go ahead and do a high performance rebuild on the motor. I'm still doing research and looking through old threads. I'm hoping to find some helpful information. My thoughts are to go with the stock crank, piston rods, and pistons, and to install the cams, intake manifold, and throttle body from an 07-08 TL-S. Possibly go with stock throttle body, but have it bored (I'm not sure yet). Then have it tuned with a quality EMS.

One mechanic suggested to do the rebuild with all stock internals with the exception of low compression pistons and then add a CT Supercharger. The CT Supercharger (which is CARB legal... and this is good because I am in Cali) comes at a pretty price tag of $3,995 new. At this point I'm trying to figure out what the greatest return on my investment would be.

I'm also considering a steering dampner, but that's another story. :wink:

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

AZsilverTl

The cheapest and most potent power solution for this car is 100HP shot of nitrous and a stand alone tune for ECU. You have the power when you want it, and still cruising fine when you don't. Here is what 75 shot nets HP wise on the 3G TL. I know before I get rid of my TL-S, I will run her on 150 shot at the strip and see if she can hit 12s.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Stroke it to a 3.7!!!


J32A2 long block
-J37 bottom end internals
-2008 TL-S hollow cams
-2008 TL-S valve springs
-Timing Belt/ Waterpump/Tensioner/Cam & Crank Seals/Valve Cover Gasket
-Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley (Underdrive)
-P&P heads
-P&P intake Manifold
-Aluminum Plenum spacers
-Throttle Body bore by King Motorsports (new TPS from Blox)
-P2R thermo spacers (intake manifold & throttle body)
Some other little things I may be missing

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Wow after 11 years of stock you're really going balls out. Keep us posted on your progress.

Stephen00TL

I am in the same boat as you. I was going to add a supercharged but realized with my motor having 200k miles I decided I'm going to build a new one next year. I'm a get a used j32a2 then get a mdx3.7 crank, rl pistons, and probably 08 tls cams. Right now i have a 09 tl intake manifold sitting in my room, then I'm getting ported type s intake runners, and bored type s throttle body to put on the engine I have now. Then I will transfer to my new engine when I build next year

EastBayTL

It looks like I finally woke you guys up! Thanks for chiming in and sharing. This is exactly the kind of feedback I was hoping for. Awesome input. Now I just have to decide what, and how, I want to get started.

EastBayTL

I'm thinking that if I can find a used supercharger kit for a good price I might just start there for now to have some fun. A rebuild is definitely in the long term picture, though.

epiles

If I use a J32A1 (2000 TL) instead of the J32A2 , would the list of parts be the same?

fsttyms1

Just the block sure. But the A2 block is better due to its cyl lining.

EastBayTL

Justnspace:

Your set up sounds awesome. Do you know how many ponies you are pushing to the wheels with that set up? I'm very interested. Thanks.

fsttyms1

Im doing something very similar to what he has posted but with a much different intake, knife edged and lightened crank and am looking for at least 350 at the wheels after a full tune.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

350 at the wheels plus the 6 speed??? Are you gonna wear diapers while u drive like Lisa Nowak when she drove to Orlando??!

rush

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=epiles;14051964]If I use a J32A1 (2000 TL) instead of the J32A2 , would the list of parts be the same?[/QUOTE
dont forget to bore the block for tl sh awd piston to make it a 3.7... good luck with your trany

fsttyms1

Its also why im going to be running 275/35/18s, even with 255s now 1st is useless wot and 2nd spins like crazy. Id like 400 (who knows i may get there) but for me to get there with a DD its probably just not that practical. What im really looking forward to is the larger amount of tq i have with this new motor.

EastBayTL

fsttyms1: Dude, I'd love to hear the recipe you're cooking up under the hood. I may just go with the stock crank, but am all ears when it comes to how you guys are rebuilding the top end of these motors. The more ideas the better. Especially if you are expecting 350 to 400 whp. For the record, I would be completely satisfied with a 340 whp set up. If I hit 350 to 400, I can guarantee you I'd be wearing a diaper while driving.... for entirely different reasons. It's either a diaper, or a jiz guard for the dash!

fsttyms1

If and when the wife ever lets me buy the last few parts it will be assembled(was hoping for this summer but other things came up so most likely this fall to winter) completely. You have to think outside the box for some things and read some of the other forums for others. HP can be made. Lots of it. Just depends on how much time and money you are willing to stick into it. I have test run the short block without the new upper stuff and with the reduced mass from the flywheel, crank and pulley the motor accelerates and decelerates when reving like a motorcycle (up to the 3500-4k ive reved it while being virgin and not broken in. It will get better with the higher compression head work.

02ACTcLean

iTrader: (3)

Lurking hard on this thread..

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i dont think you can stroke a 3.2L to a 3.7L....

the stroker motor would be a 3.6L....and will be comprising of the following parts:

RL Pistons, MDX crank and rods, New block bearings, oil pump, TL-S cams, all gaskets, water pump and all timing componets

Stephen00TL

You can a couple of people have two of them have cls, Nva-av6 (paul) has done it. Acuraspook, richardparker, and rush I believe all have done it

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

yes they are all stroked to 3.6L

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

this is from when i was thinking of doing the same....mind it, I have a 3G (J32A3 i think)

J32A3: Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 86 mm (3.4 in) = 3208.4 hence 3.2L
J35A8: Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 93 mm (3.7 in) = 3469.6 hence 3.5L
J37A4: Bore is 90 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 96 mm (3.8 in) = 3662.4 hence 3.7L

My engine will be:
Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 96 mm (3.8 in) = 3581.5 hence 3.6L

now if you BORE and STROKE, it wont be called a "stroker" motor....

you can certainly bore the block to 90mm and run a 96mm stoke to get to a 3.7L but then as i said, it wont be called a "stroker" motor....

EastBayTL

Alright, I'm learning lots of great stuff here guys. Thank you. Now you guys have me rethinking this rebuild. If I were to go for it and have a J32A built from the ground up I need a few things clarified to get my head wrapped around the project. Here are a few key questions:

1. Is the J32A2 from the 02-03 TL-S the correct block?
2. For bottom end internals (crankshaft, piston rods, bearings, etc.), is the J37A1 from the 07+ MDX the correct engine?
3. 2008 TL-S cams and valve train?
4. Stay with the 1999 heads and have relief work done for cam clearance then have them ported and polished? Or, are heads from another J motor recommended?
5. Stay with the 1999 intake manifold and have it ported and polished? I've heard talk of using the intake manifold from the 09 TL-S? Pros, cons suggestions?
6. After a rebuild like this, what is the opinion on having it supercharged too?

I figured the only stupid question is the one I don't ask right?

I'm starting to think that buying this thing one part at a time and having it built is the way to go. This way I can drive my car while the beast is being crafted!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^
MDX Crank/Rods/Bottom end and use the RL Pistons, J35Ax Cams, I would go with KMS or Bisi Valvetrain, J32Ax heads (they flow better than J35heads), J37Ax Manifold + TB, custom Intake

Or you can use Paul's Dual TB and Intake setup

Stephen00TL

I know civicdrvr has 3.6 but i'm pretty confident that richardparker and acuraspook both have 3.7

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Stephen....my point was, you can be stroked to 3.6L but you will have to bore out to be at 3.7L....there is no way to be "stroked" to 3.7 as you will need a bigger bottom end/rods/cranks which dont exist in the J series

Stephen00TL

Now I get what you mean sorry for the confusion

fsttyms1

Don't know how that its possible they flow better. I'm pretty sure they are the exact same part number right down to the valve ?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I know Andy (Gerzand) is using base heads on his Type S with Bisi Stage 2 cams....he told me Base head flows better and i trust that guy blindly

EastBayTL

Dang! This has turned into one tasty thread fellas. I have all kinds of ideas floating around in my head now. Gracias mi amigos!

One mechanic told me that since I have a 99, I might want to stay with the stock J32 A1 block due to sensor hookups, and other small differences that might become problematic (?). Then of course, I'm in Cali and have to pass smog every two years (Ugh!).

Even so, the recipes listed here give all kinds of options. I'm gonna be printing some of this stuff out and running it by some mechanics very soon.

fsttyms1

It may be with the A3 but the MDX shares the same heads as the Type-S with the A2. Both have the same 12100-P8E-306 part number, meaning they have to be the exact same.

fsttyms1

You can get an A2 to work just fine in your 99

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Won't he have a issue if he try's to use the A2 ecu with the 99 trans ?

TLer trash

I don't think boring a stroked motor makes it any less a "stroker" motor. A 383 chevy is probably the most common "stroker" motor and it's bored at least .060", or more depending on which block you started with.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

damn i just checked it and you are correct Sir....

the part #'s for the heads in the 3G base and 3G type S are the same....my mistake

Stephen00TL

Yes because the the type s ecu will cause it to search for 5 gears and there will only be 4. The only way to do it would be to use the stock 99 ecu

assclown

iTrader: (1)

true, but if he's already throwing all this kind of money down, why not just go all out 6speed? It'll only help free up HP anyway.

Stephen00TL

True as long as he has money for it, someone or himself to do it, time, and like to shift gears manually

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Best thing I've ever done to my car was throw a 6 speed in.