Check engine--and tcs light
#1
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~~~ SKY'S THE LIMIT ~~~
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 248
Likes: 7
From: milwaukee wisconsin
Check engine--and tcs light
sooooo whenever im driving my 99 TL on the highway and i get off the off ramp-----the check engine and the tcs light come on-------ALWAYS---------its a pain in the ass-------does this happen to anyone else on here-----------let me know guys-------thanks
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#8
I have the same problem, but I havent gotten an alignemnt yet ever since I lowered my car on coilovers. I think that's what is causing the problem...BUt I also have a slight misfire, so that might be the issue too.
Last edited by swllen_cu; 01-26-2011 at 01:57 PM.
#9
find the misfire- coil or plug,,dont drive around with that problem!
a multi cyl misfire code series is often 1 coil- dont freak and buy 6
diy egr port/system by removing intake manifold- clogs every 60-75kmiles
99s had a recall for it- see if that was ever done
acura usa 1 800 382 2238x5 have your VIN ready to give them
clutch codes/pressure switches are trans related
you can replace a few external parts and change the fluid
see if that solves it or reduces prob- a step in the right direction
when was the last trans fluid change?
color and smell of fluid now?
a multi cyl misfire code series is often 1 coil- dont freak and buy 6
diy egr port/system by removing intake manifold- clogs every 60-75kmiles
99s had a recall for it- see if that was ever done
acura usa 1 800 382 2238x5 have your VIN ready to give them
clutch codes/pressure switches are trans related
you can replace a few external parts and change the fluid
see if that solves it or reduces prob- a step in the right direction
when was the last trans fluid change?
color and smell of fluid now?
#10
lowering the car doesnt cause it to stall or give codes
get the alignment soon to protect the tires and make it easier to drive
the front end goes `toe out` when lowered- trying to split the car in half as it goes down the road, car wanders easily
makes you look like a drunk driver~
spec is 0 camber with limit of neg 1 degree
you can be at neg 1.5 and its fine on the tires- based on experience with the TL
When they try to sell you camber kits if below that number-
tell them to `Set the TOE and let it go` it will be fine
all you can adjust on the TL is toe- unless you install camber kits
the TL turns in better to the corner with a little neg camber anyway
get the alignment soon to protect the tires and make it easier to drive
the front end goes `toe out` when lowered- trying to split the car in half as it goes down the road, car wanders easily
makes you look like a drunk driver~
spec is 0 camber with limit of neg 1 degree
you can be at neg 1.5 and its fine on the tires- based on experience with the TL
When they try to sell you camber kits if below that number-
tell them to `Set the TOE and let it go` it will be fine
all you can adjust on the TL is toe- unless you install camber kits
the TL turns in better to the corner with a little neg camber anyway
#11
if you caught a speed sensor wire during the lowering.. or after,,
that could cause some codes and lights
do a visual ck of those, might be cut wire shorts out on certain brake and turn combination?
Do the cruise control and ABS systems work?
that could cause some codes and lights
do a visual ck of those, might be cut wire shorts out on certain brake and turn combination?
Do the cruise control and ABS systems work?
#12
lowering the car doesnt cause it to stall or give codes
get the alignment soon to protect the tires and make it easier to drive
the front end goes `toe out` when lowered- trying to split the car in half as it goes down the road, car wanders easily
makes you look like a drunk driver~
spec is 0 camber with limit of neg 1 degree
you can be at neg 1.5 and its fine on the tires- based on experience with the TL
When they try to sell you camber kits if below that number-
tell them to `Set the TOE and let it go` it will be fine
all you can adjust on the TL is toe- unless you install camber kits
the TL turns in better to the corner with a little neg camber anyway
get the alignment soon to protect the tires and make it easier to drive
the front end goes `toe out` when lowered- trying to split the car in half as it goes down the road, car wanders easily
makes you look like a drunk driver~
spec is 0 camber with limit of neg 1 degree
you can be at neg 1.5 and its fine on the tires- based on experience with the TL
When they try to sell you camber kits if below that number-
tell them to `Set the TOE and let it go` it will be fine
all you can adjust on the TL is toe- unless you install camber kits
the TL turns in better to the corner with a little neg camber anyway
I think the TCS light is coming on because I have a slight misfire. It started misfiring after I washed my engine bay a month ago. I'll check ALLDATA and see how to test the coils individually
#13
thanks for the advice bro, but i've been modding cars long enough to do it the right way. haha
I think the TCS light is coming on because I have a slight misfire. It started misfiring after I washed my engine bay a month ago. I'll check ALLDATA and see how to test the coils individually
I think the TCS light is coming on because I have a slight misfire. It started misfiring after I washed my engine bay a month ago. I'll check ALLDATA and see how to test the coils individually
maybe you should track down the loose connector first instead of chasing your tail dicking with the coils that have nothing to do with the traction control system.
it isn't uncommon for the very fine wires used by the wheel sensors to break internally throwing the code and light then again maybe the connectors are loose there as well.
what codes does your show?
#14
swllen: I tend to write in a way that may answer the current question AND for future users of the site- give some tips that shops wont tell you (as a retired tech)
it is possible to damage a speed sensor if the calipers are placed on the backing plate
or pulled on, other are just old and lived in rust country
Get some oil or covering of crud on the sensor ring itself and that will cause probs
if its a coil for misfire it will give a code! -often says multi cylinder misfire but its really just one
you can do the cheater method of coil testing- remove connector and see if idle is affected--the one that doesnt change rpm slightly is the bad one
may want to replace that plug if it looks like coil has been a prob for a while-loading up plug so it wont fire correctly now
if over 70kmiles you may want new ngk iridium ix spark plugs now
it is possible to damage a speed sensor if the calipers are placed on the backing plate
or pulled on, other are just old and lived in rust country
Get some oil or covering of crud on the sensor ring itself and that will cause probs
if its a coil for misfire it will give a code! -often says multi cylinder misfire but its really just one
you can do the cheater method of coil testing- remove connector and see if idle is affected--the one that doesnt change rpm slightly is the bad one
may want to replace that plug if it looks like coil has been a prob for a while-loading up plug so it wont fire correctly now
if over 70kmiles you may want new ngk iridium ix spark plugs now
#15
maybe you should track down the loose connector first instead of chasing your tail dicking with the coils that have nothing to do with the traction control system.
it isn't uncommon for the very fine wires used by the wheel sensors to break internally throwing the code and light then again maybe the connectors are loose there as well.
what codes does your show?
it isn't uncommon for the very fine wires used by the wheel sensors to break internally throwing the code and light then again maybe the connectors are loose there as well.
what codes does your show?
The only code I have is the Torque converter clutch solenoid. I think its throwing that code because my uncle (who rebuilt the transmission) put in some universal Synthetic fluid.... Only problem I have with that is that the transmission doesn't go into lock up, which according to my dad(owns a transmission shop and has been doing it for 30+ years) won't affecting anything. I just need to gradually drain and refill with Honda ATFZ-1 until the entire trans is filled with it ad it should go away.
But I'll check the Codes with the TCS light on this weekend..
Last edited by swllen_cu; 01-27-2011 at 02:05 PM.
#16
do a 3x3 atf change and get the right stuff in there, at least for break in miles
then many are going to redline or other type f fluid--see post by I hate cars for details on that
he is using it to revive a dead 99 trans,,dont know how it works on rebuilts
then many are going to redline or other type f fluid--see post by I hate cars for details on that
he is using it to revive a dead 99 trans,,dont know how it works on rebuilts
#17
washing the engine- low presure rinse and air compressor to dry out connections
or-your leaf blower works- on low at a safe distance~~
Spray wd40 or other water dispersant everywhere you can reach the straw
I usually start the engine after rinse and blow dry- to get any moisture out now before it causes a problem
or-your leaf blower works- on low at a safe distance~~
Spray wd40 or other water dispersant everywhere you can reach the straw
I usually start the engine after rinse and blow dry- to get any moisture out now before it causes a problem
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