300hp
300 to the crank can be reached with all the bolt ons. 300 to the wheels you'll need all the bolt ons and s/c or cutom turbo, or in my case 75-100 shot of nitrous.
^thats on a TL-S not a TL-P
^thats on a TL-S not a TL-P
Originally Posted by S1CK TypeS
300 to the crank can be reached with all the bolt ons. 300 to the wheels you'll need all the bolt ons and s/c or cutom turbo, or in my case 75-100 shot of nitrous.
^thats on a TL-S not a TL-P
^thats on a TL-S not a TL-P
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
i doubt you would be at 300bhp even with all the bolt-ons unless you went to 3.5L
TL-S = 260
headers = 20ish
cai = 7-10
pullies = 10ish
spacers = 5-10
Originally Posted by S1CK TypeS
u gotta be pretty damn close to 300 crank if not over.
TL-S = 260
headers = 20ish
cai = 7-10
pullies = 10ish
spacers = 5-10
TL-S = 260
headers = 20ish
cai = 7-10
pullies = 10ish
spacers = 5-10
first of all, the original stock 260hp would not be under todays standards, you have to figure it according to the WHP recorded.
the most i have ever seen a n/a auto put down is about 230whp, given that, and given 20% drivetrain loss, that puts it at 287.5BHP... trust me... on the 3.2 and an automatic, it will be VERY hard and cost a lot more than 2,000$ to get to 300bhp
the most i have ever seen a n/a auto put down is about 230whp, given that, and given 20% drivetrain loss, that puts it at 287.5BHP... trust me... on the 3.2 and an automatic, it will be VERY hard and cost a lot more than 2,000$ to get to 300bhp
You'll Never Walk Alone
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well these people are talkng about the earlier standards since the car was made back then(ie, 260 rated hp when stock). Obviously they know that with the new SAE standards and/or whp, it's not close to 300. But it will be around 300 crank hp using the old standards.
Originally Posted by CleanCL
first of all, the original stock 260hp would not be under todays standards, you have to figure it according to the WHP recorded.
the most i have ever seen a n/a auto put down is about 230whp, given that, and given 20% drivetrain loss, that puts it at 287.5BHP... trust me... on the 3.2 and an automatic, it will be VERY hard and cost a lot more than 2,000$ to get to 300bhp
the most i have ever seen a n/a auto put down is about 230whp, given that, and given 20% drivetrain loss, that puts it at 287.5BHP... trust me... on the 3.2 and an automatic, it will be VERY hard and cost a lot more than 2,000$ to get to 300bhp
Snowman dynoed at 240whp without a vafc and thermoblock spacers. hes the 2nd one on the TL side to dyno 240whp. i thought it was more than 20% drivetrain loss
240 is very high, i wouldnt trust that dyno, do you know what corrections were used?
btw - you can't say "well according to old standards its over 300hp" thats BS. just use the WHP run on a dyno and figure it out.
but i dont know what drivetrain loss actually was, 20% is pretty high, but i wouldn't put it past that it's more like 25%, by your logic i'm making over 333hp =]
btw - you can't say "well according to old standards its over 300hp" thats BS. just use the WHP run on a dyno and figure it out.
but i dont know what drivetrain loss actually was, 20% is pretty high, but i wouldn't put it past that it's more like 25%, by your logic i'm making over 333hp =]
under the new hp ratings the 02-03 tl-s has about 240-245, so even with every bolt-on, a tune, and vafc the power would be just under 300.....also that bs of 20 from headers no way, those "dyno proven" numbers are always bs.....when they do those test the car is pulled three times and they get the lowest hp rating and then they pull the car three times with the headers and take the highest hp rating, which is how companies get these crazy numbers, same goes for intakes, exhaust.....cars are not as restricted as they once were, so changing something like the exhaust doesn't do as much as it used to,
Originally Posted by dreem1er
under the new hp ratings the 02-03 tl-s has about 240-245, so even with every bolt-on, a tune, and vafc the power would be just under 300.....also that bs of 20 from headers no way, those "dyno proven" numbers are always bs.....when they do those test the car is pulled three times and they get the lowest hp rating and then they pull the car three times with the headers and take the highest hp rating, which is how companies get these crazy numbers, same goes for intakes, exhaust.....cars are not as restricted as they once were, so changing something like the exhaust doesn't do as much as it used to,
You'll Never Walk Alone
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Then it really depends on how you look at it right? Some people prefer comparing using the old standards, some like the new standards...imo nobody is wrong here, I say the method that makes you happier is the right one.
technically your car is making the same hp under the new/"more accurate" rating, the only thing is that people fail to realize that if your model car production was stopped before the new ratings were put into place they never went and retested em.....i.e the 3.2tl...it was no longer being made there is no reason to waste money and test it under the new hp rating.....which is why people get confused,
for instance the new accord has 244 under the new rating, but it can take out a tl type s......
for instance the new accord has 244 under the new rating, but it can take out a tl type s......
Originally Posted by HockeyMan0920
buy the ebay ghetto turbo kit, under 2g's and will give you all the power you need for the 10 minutes it works before it breaks.
moddin the TL-P? Yea, I was thinkin about that too on my '03 TL-P w/ headers, intake, and pullies. Although I've read in the forums that exhaust really doesn't do much 'cause our TL-P/TL-S are already free flowin enough.
its doable.. u can built a turbo setup and put down 100hp. 2k is a decent budget and it definetly could be done with some careful shopping and knowing where to look for parts. for a few hundred bucks, u can buy a inexpensive t28 type turbo thats good for 350hp or more, use muffler tubing to rig up the intercooler and turbo plumping, skip the expensive fuel management eletronics and use mechanical fuel regulators and a mechanical boost controller, hit the junkyard to pick up a mk3 supra intercooler for less then $100, and finish it off with a cheap blow off valve.
2k for 100hp isnt a difficult task. theres nothing that says it has to look good or be made from new parts. if u want a nice looking setup thats gonna be reliable and consistant, then youll need a bigger budget. the others are right on that.
2k for 100hp isnt a difficult task. theres nothing that says it has to look good or be made from new parts. if u want a nice looking setup thats gonna be reliable and consistant, then youll need a bigger budget. the others are right on that.
can lighten the car for free too. it will FEEL faster without costing a dime. the less weight its pulling around, the less HP it needs to move the car. and the more of it u can feel.
you could have extensive head work too... smoothing the combusion chambers, having the valves fitted to the ports, having all the flow areas polished, get a custom ground cam.
one muscle car trick is to lighten the engine internals as well... lighter connecting rods and a lightened crank will reduce rotaing mass and "free up" HP. basic engine theorys revolve around engines losing power through friction areas, so making the motor work less to overcome the friction is one way to get of the power to the ground instead of being lost on its way to the wheels. work like that is more advanced and goes beyond simple bolt ones as well as need to be preformed by a machine shop to do the work
you could have extensive head work too... smoothing the combusion chambers, having the valves fitted to the ports, having all the flow areas polished, get a custom ground cam.
one muscle car trick is to lighten the engine internals as well... lighter connecting rods and a lightened crank will reduce rotaing mass and "free up" HP. basic engine theorys revolve around engines losing power through friction areas, so making the motor work less to overcome the friction is one way to get of the power to the ground instead of being lost on its way to the wheels. work like that is more advanced and goes beyond simple bolt ones as well as need to be preformed by a machine shop to do the work
Originally Posted by MyPearl02
so the only way that any of us are gonna make that 300 mark is to have real deep pockets and be smart.....? shit im out im broke and im not smart
u can do it without forced induction... but its not cheap. it requires a master engine builder who understands how to milk out every last HP from custom ground cams, custom cut pistols, lightened internals, ported heads, etc.
people have been getting huge numbers without forced induction since they started racing cars. its not impossible to do it with a TL... just not nessicary. way too expensive and without purpose other then bragging rights.
people have been getting huge numbers without forced induction since they started racing cars. its not impossible to do it with a TL... just not nessicary. way too expensive and without purpose other then bragging rights.
Originally Posted by Juliet
u can do it without forced induction... but its not cheap. it requires a master engine builder who understands how to milk out every last HP from custom ground cams, custom cut pistols, lightened internals, ported heads, etc.
people have been getting huge numbers without forced induction since they started racing cars. its not impossible to do it with a TL... just not nessicary. way too expensive and without purpose other then bragging rights.
people have been getting huge numbers without forced induction since they started racing cars. its not impossible to do it with a TL... just not nessicary. way too expensive and without purpose other then bragging rights.
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