whining sound and it smells like something is burning.
#1
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
whining sound and it smells like something is burning.
Just started yesterday. I noticed a whining sound coming from the engine so i opened the hood to hear where it's coming from and it's from the belt side. I don't think it's any belt since it smelled like something is burning(like electric motor burning).Alternator?
#2
whining........burning ?
It appears as though your baby is getting sick.
Check the drive belts and all the associated drive pulleys for wear. A bad bearing could be whining on a pulley. Is the belt tracking well ?
If belts and pulleys are ok, then look closer at the external components that they drive. ( P.S. pump, A.C. unit, and the alternator ).
You indicated that the smell was more like "hot electric", and not so much like oil or rubber. This is usually more distinctive. Does the alternator feel exceptionally hot ? Check the wiring harness plug. Perform a load test of the charging system.
Hope you are able to fix the problem before it decides to crap out on you !
Check the drive belts and all the associated drive pulleys for wear. A bad bearing could be whining on a pulley. Is the belt tracking well ?
If belts and pulleys are ok, then look closer at the external components that they drive. ( P.S. pump, A.C. unit, and the alternator ).
You indicated that the smell was more like "hot electric", and not so much like oil or rubber. This is usually more distinctive. Does the alternator feel exceptionally hot ? Check the wiring harness plug. Perform a load test of the charging system.
Hope you are able to fix the problem before it decides to crap out on you !
#3
use a long screwdriver or get a mechanics stethoscope, $4 at hft, 10 at parts stores
place tip on non moving area of ac belt tensioner base--the thing behind alternator at top of engine
smooth sound is good,
sounds like the neighbor kids heavy metal band practice? not good
thats a common wearout part and will cause belt issues too if its not turning right ie: bearing siezure
or it may not be keeping belt tension constant-tension spring failure
mine finally went at 80kmiles after making noises since 45
that stethascope can test any moving part for noises that dont belong
every mechanic should have one and every diy ziner too!
place tip on non moving area of ac belt tensioner base--the thing behind alternator at top of engine
smooth sound is good,
sounds like the neighbor kids heavy metal band practice? not good
thats a common wearout part and will cause belt issues too if its not turning right ie: bearing siezure
or it may not be keeping belt tension constant-tension spring failure
mine finally went at 80kmiles after making noises since 45
that stethascope can test any moving part for noises that dont belong
every mechanic should have one and every diy ziner too!
#4
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
All my belts were changed 2 years ago when i changed the timing belt.
How hot is the alternator supposed to get? I mean if you came back from a drive, it get's damn hot. I burnt my fingers?
How hot is the alternator supposed to get? I mean if you came back from a drive, it get's damn hot. I burnt my fingers?
#5
Quite frankly, I honestly don't know the difference between normal running and the possibility of being "overheated" due to the internals of the alternator starting to fry, disintegrate and eventually seize up. Have it checked by a pro !
If you feel confident that the belts, along with all the pulleys are ok....then what's left ?
Try loosening the idler/tensioner pulley, remove the belt and then check the pulleys by hand for play or binding. After 10 years of spinning the pulley bearings will wear. Things like the Alternator, AC clutch, and PS pump are not immune to failure.
If you feel confident that the belts, along with all the pulleys are ok....then what's left ?
Try loosening the idler/tensioner pulley, remove the belt and then check the pulleys by hand for play or binding. After 10 years of spinning the pulley bearings will wear. Things like the Alternator, AC clutch, and PS pump are not immune to failure.
#6
have a parts store run an electrical test- ck alt output etc
burning fingers hot seems a bit excess
do the listening test on the belt tensioner near alternator
if it wasnt replaced with the belts its a likely suspect
burning fingers hot seems a bit excess
do the listening test on the belt tensioner near alternator
if it wasnt replaced with the belts its a likely suspect
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#9
that old school alt test does not apply to modern cars that require huge amounts of electricity to operate
take the car for testing
or remove alt and tensioner, parts store test alt
and leaking bearing or siezed is easy to tell in your hand
take the car for testing
or remove alt and tensioner, parts store test alt
and leaking bearing or siezed is easy to tell in your hand
#10
One old quick trick to eliminate the "idler pulley bearing" as the source of the whining noise would be to spray a small amount of penetrating oil onto the center part of the pulley on each side to temporarily lube the worn bearing. By doing this, and then starting up the car the noise may disappear.
I'm unsure of your TL's present mileage, but at after 10 years of service, the alternator has served a long life. The alternator can be rebuilt..... or you can just swap it for a reconditioned one at any parts store for less than $150. It's not all that difficult to pull off and replace. Do the tensioner if in question for another $25. Less than $200 total, plus a few hours of your time.
I'd rather be safe than sorry.....if you were stranded at night with the alternator going bad ? Without "AAA", your tow bill could easily top that $200 ! At a minimum, have it tested at your earliest convenience. Free, at most auto parts stores.
I'm unsure of your TL's present mileage, but at after 10 years of service, the alternator has served a long life. The alternator can be rebuilt..... or you can just swap it for a reconditioned one at any parts store for less than $150. It's not all that difficult to pull off and replace. Do the tensioner if in question for another $25. Less than $200 total, plus a few hours of your time.
I'd rather be safe than sorry.....if you were stranded at night with the alternator going bad ? Without "AAA", your tow bill could easily top that $200 ! At a minimum, have it tested at your earliest convenience. Free, at most auto parts stores.
#11
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
I checked the battery while the car was on and got 12.6V and when I gave I a bit of gas, it jumped up to 13.1V. Could the alternator be over charging?
#12
Hey 1st timer, actually what you just stated as happening is normally good.
However, the true test comes when you check the battery output under load with the AC on full, heater blower, rear window defrost, heated seats, headlamps on bright......ladidah !
You may very well witness a change !
However, the true test comes when you check the battery output under load with the AC on full, heater blower, rear window defrost, heated seats, headlamps on bright......ladidah !
You may very well witness a change !
#13
the accessory belt pre tensioner is more than 25
maybe for just the roller part but the real failure is in the internal spring part that adjust the tension
75-100 for the entire unit depnding on where you shop and Canada prices
mine rattled like a failed chevy water pump,,could hear it outside the car on it last days!!
change sound with rpm, change sound when in gear, ac load changes sound
go buy the part and be done with it
alt does increase output when load applied--more `stored amps` needed to operate systems= recharging device works harder some times
,,means the voltage regulator is functioning
the alts job is to replace juice taken from the battery by the car to run
maybe for just the roller part but the real failure is in the internal spring part that adjust the tension
75-100 for the entire unit depnding on where you shop and Canada prices
mine rattled like a failed chevy water pump,,could hear it outside the car on it last days!!
change sound with rpm, change sound when in gear, ac load changes sound
go buy the part and be done with it
alt does increase output when load applied--more `stored amps` needed to operate systems= recharging device works harder some times
,,means the voltage regulator is functioning
the alts job is to replace juice taken from the battery by the car to run
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-04-2012 at 07:15 PM.
#15
replace that tensioner too
take it off and spin by hand to verify,,, but its worth doing
if it jams up= thats hard on the alt and will need a new belt then too
if a parts store will tell you whats failed,,diode pack, brushes or voltage regulator,,,you can replace those
ck around- rebuilt alternator is not cheap in the USA,,add 45% for Canadian Tire markup...
take it off and spin by hand to verify,,, but its worth doing
if it jams up= thats hard on the alt and will need a new belt then too
if a parts store will tell you whats failed,,diode pack, brushes or voltage regulator,,,you can replace those
ck around- rebuilt alternator is not cheap in the USA,,add 45% for Canadian Tire markup...
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-05-2012 at 05:31 PM.
#16
2007 TL
Did you ever figure out what this was?? I’m having the same issue at 155k miles. It does not seem is the alternator but above it. Burning smell and whining noise.
#17
Senior Moderator
#18
2007 TL
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