I was wondering, just a random thought... I was hoping of using this for future references when it comes to another future mod on the car. The shops, when they replace your exhaust and headers, the tools they use make those rusted pieces of shit come off easily... Question is, how much ft./lbs. of torque do their air tools put out to make the job so easy?

 

I have no idea about how much torque their air tools have but who cares. The point is that they have the right tools to do that line of work. Thats why they do it for a living.

 

True, but my neigbor's got tools also.. I wanted to see if their tools would be almost the same as his so that I can use his impact wrench/compressor rather and avoiding a mechanic at all costs... You already know the crap I have to deal with in my current situation

 

In my experience the pros cut everything off with a torch or power saw. At home I use penetrating oil and a long handle on the sockets, but I still expect many of the nuts to twist off (break off). Strength really isn't an issue.

 

Up north - the torch is your friend. Down south - the regular set of impact tools do just fine.

No rust under the vehicle down here!

 

I got myself some rust remover.. it's mostly Phosphoric Acid... After a while of working it at the bolts, a decent impact wrench could remove it or will there still be an issue?

 

It depends on the extent of the rust. Many times it's easier to heat up the bolt and impact wrench it. Sometimes it's easier to break it off, then replace it with a new one.

If unsure - get a pro to do it. You'll spend all day under the car (perhaps unsucessfully) for a job they could do in a half hour.

 

Heat and Air Tools usually always work for me. if not impact chisles and saws work well too. The key is to always be 1 step ahead of the bolt!

 

Up in the Northeast impact tools are really enough to get most bolts out. The cars though that have been absolutely beat on, barely maintained, sat with the salt from the roads, etc.. those bolts you take a nice torch too. And I'm not talking those little torches that cost $20 from Home Depot. I, myself, like to use a oxy-acetylene torch... that bolt looks like lava in about 20 seconds.

 

500 ft lbs and more and you also need the right size air compressor to run the tool at its rated capacity. When I tried to install my Comptech Axlebacks, I used penetrating oil and my 500 ft lb impact wrench (IR). After an hour of trying, I went to Midas. In less than an hour, they had the Comptechs installed. They used an OA torch to burn the rusted bolts out.

 

VERY TRUE. NOT OFTEN I NEED A TORCH FOR ANYTHING. WD-40 WORKS FINE, I PREFER "HODA-LUBE", CHECK YOUR LOCAL DEALER. WORKS GREAT & A HONDA PRODUCT.

 

The penetrating oil we use is PB Blaster. My mechanics always ask for it.

 

So even with an impact wrench of over 500 ft./lbs., that still won't be able to get the bolts off?.. geez! To find the right compressor and wrench is not the problem, just these bolts are. I found a wrench that boasts around 740 ft.lbs at home depot, and found the right size compressor.. knowing myself, I'll do the job and just return it lol, but would that be enough? Even though i'd spend 200+ for tools, at least they're returnable and I end up with a free install... I just don't want to bring the car to a mechanic ever again other than for transmission repair

 

Just rent a oxy-acetylene torch for removing anything from cat back. The rest will only require basic air tools/tools.

 

oh how i hate rust...

 

Don't waste your money on massive impact tools, for the occasional exhaust job, a sawzall (reciprocating saw) will make short work of cutting the system into small pieces, no need to grunt with the rusted clamps & flanges.

The only fasteners's you'll need to take care with are the studs on the exhaust manifolds. Penetrating oil the night before & a torch if that doesn't get it. A broken stud can be an absolute nightmare to replace.

 

Where would I be able to rent a oxy-acetylene torch? Also, doens't the cost depend on the size of the tanks also?

 

That was another thought of mine also actually, it seems waaay cheaper, ..if I did go in that direction, the only worry I'd have is any metal dibris getting into the catalytic converter while cutting... or would that not be a problem at all?

Wow.. this is starting to be come an informative thread.. I'm liking this