Recently I've been feeling alot of small lunges forward and backwards in my 20000 TL. While cruising at 20-45 mph I can feel the car kind of wobble forwards while Im set at one speed. It's not a transmission or Torque Converter shudder, (which I already have, so i can feel the difference )

It doesn't do it at idle,I set the cruise at 45mph and looked at the RPM gauge and it was fluctuating up and down by 300-500 RPM As soon as I hit gas or stay over 60mph the fluctuation stops. But it can be felt while driving at a set speed with the gas pedal at a steady position. The car has 130k miles on it, I really dont know what it could be the exhaust was checked and there was nothing wrong with it. I dunno if it could be the same problem, but I also have a Hissing sound which is coming from the airbox every time I hit gas, when I let the the hissing stops but its really faint only can be heard with windows down could these two problems go hand in hand.

I'm scared this car is gonna fall into peices soon, especially with all the shuddering going on....

 

HAHAHAHHHAAHAHH OMG Im having the problem for past 9 months.. blew atleast $1,000 changing parts and service.. NO CEL.. although i ordered 2 new o2 sensors recently and they should be in this week.... when it got worse like 2 months ago.. my gas mileage is really bad and smells like rotten eggs... once the car is warmed up from start up... then i get the same problem like yours.. so i took the car into so many shops.. and they said the o2 sensor is mostly likely the cause... now im at 128,000km..

 

i changed the EGR Valve, cleaned the ports, IACV, MAF,THrottle body service,Coilpacks,Sparkplugs,Valve Adjustment,Tried different gas NO HELP,Oil change,Catyalic converter checked .....

 

your right it's not the transmission.. i got that checked out too.. lol..

 

well the scary thing is, I was doing a search through the forums and every thread seams to give these symptoms of a tranny right before its dieing. Especially with the fluctuations in RPM's member's have had this problem along with the shuddering (at exactly 38kph for me) is leading to the death of the tranny.

I just hope my tranny isnt toast, shifts are fine and tight in every gear although I get a shudder and the fluctuations on RPM's. I'm leading to believe this is an issue with the Torque Converter locking and unlocking but I cant seem to put the pieces together. Im just really tired of driving a car that shakes, spudders, stutters, hesitates and farts on me while Im driving. Im already at 215K on my second tranny I wonder how much longer until my time is up!

 

the trans death shudder is at 2nd 3rd gear shifts- not cruising speeds-

An air leak sound may be a massive or small vac leak- check the front and rear motor mounts for fluid leakage from them- vac boosted mounts leak air when they go bad
Check the airbox lid for damage- check the hose clamps on snout tube to TB
Clean the TB plate!
Seafoam the intake manifold and redline the gas tank

Whats you vac reading at idle?
how do the plugs look?- they tell you whats happening inside

 

So I think i have fixed the problem.. not 100% sure.. but.. it's running proper at the moment.. So here's what happened.. I just installed my 19'z yesterdai... and i had the rubbing issue on the rear fender.. so i took out the sub to reduce weight also the fuse from the power wire running from the battery... this happend at the tire shop..by the way. So then i was heading home the car drove fine rpm didn't surge up and down while I'm cruising. It looks like the battery must have been weak.... it makes sense because after i installed my system my car drove kinda ruff.. i have a heavy system in the car but no capacitor.. so maybe that's why..... i will let u know once i replace the battery .. So "MOBB" cross ur fingers......

 

easy enough to get a battery checked
If you have big amp you may want an extra ground wire or two
Cant hurt to improve the weak wiring system of the TL

 

Thats really weird, I have a system too im running 2 10"s at 600w rms 1200peak, with 4 gauge wiring and a 1 farad cap.
I never thought it could be that, but would it it makes sense that when the RPMs surge up and down shouldnt the lights dim?? Cuz none of my lights dim and my battery is a OEM replacement thats about a year old.

 

a good battery will keep the lights strong- with the HIDs it would be hard to change the brightness since its a gas

OE battery is not the best in the world= stop by a parts store and have it tested, check the entire charging system

 

Have teh battery load tested. It could also be a alternator. They will often give symptoms like that.

 

thats what I meant by have the battery tested. My local parts store can do a load test- starter draw, alt output etc. all for free

Anyone who does replace a battery should drive an hour to charge it fully, then return to the store for a systems check
Often one part will take out the other~

 

Update: changed the o2 sensor today... no luckk although drives a little better than before.. .. tommarow ill be changing the battery .. getting a Interstate Mega Tron.. see if it solves the issue..