Hey all i need some help. i remember there were two times when my rotors were warped and the dealer replaced them under warranty. my car is past 50k and they are vibrating again and the dealer said i have to pay for the new rotors is that true or is there some type of known defect in them? because for the price he quoted me, i might as well buy aftermarket ones and not worry about a thing

 

one price was he quoting you at? heck u can buy a set of brembo slotted and drilled rotors look good and last for a dam long time.

 

take that off your mind, even aftermarket brakes (other than BBK) will warp, guaranteed.

I went through KVR Cross Drilled rotors, Regular "blank" aftermarket rotors and Rotora slotted rotors. That was after i went through 2 sets of OEM rotors...

TL + warped rotors go very well together.

 

do a search on my rotors are warped I think...

I think you should just get slotted.. don't get drilled because of cracking...

I think Rotora and EBC Greenstuff or Ceramic is supposed to be quiet/durable/least brake dust... , but check on there for sure.

 

Quit washing your car after you drive it... Hot Rotors and Cold Water don't go together...

 

Thanks fellaz for the quick response NOW>>>>> does anyone know where i could get some ROTORO rotors for the front for a damn good price. the cheapest i found for installation is 78per Hr for 2 hrs ... i saw a group buy, but i dont know if it ended already.

 

Sorry, I don't... That is next on my agenda because mine have been shaking for a year or more now... I don't think it has gotten worse though.

 

Yea I'm gonna have to do something about my damn brakes..... my shits warped again now, after like 25K. I just need to find a good brake shop here in Atlanta, and get a good combo of pads and rotors that will last for a while.

 

I do not know about the Acura rotor quality, but my Sable's rotors warped too frequently. After doing research, I found the common consensus was cheap metal! I replaced them with a pair of Brembo rotors and ceramic pads, never warped again! Aftermarket products are often better and therefore you get the better performance. Although, if you drive hard then only racing quality will suffice as that is what they are designed for.

 

www.streetbeatcustoms.com offers the rotora slotted for about ... 160$ i think.. free shipping too.

 

I never do that.

We all know TL brakes are weak, period.

 

No kidding. But I've recently installed Rotora slotted rotors and they're already warped (or warped to begin with), and I haven't washed my car in since installing the rotors over 2 k miles ago.

 

I've been easy on my rotors ever since mine went out at 20K miles after tackling some twisties in the mountains of SW Virginia. The dealer replaced them under warranty, but I'm really surprised that a TL Type-S which is supposed to be a sports sedan had that problem.

Next time I need rotors for the TL-S I'll put on a good set of aftermarket rotors and be all set. I put on some aftermarkets cross-drilled rotors on my Stang about 70-80K miles ago and they're just now needing to be replaced -- not bad considering I put on some harsh pads and hammer the brakes regularly.

 

so i guess i should pull over to the side of the street every time it rains then? you're crazy...

 

This has been posted before...

http://www.ceramicbrakes.com/whitepa...otors_myth.htm

I'm just the messanger.

 

Using your parking brake regularly, especially in warm/hot weather may be the reason for your rotors being warp. When you apply a parking brake, it's the same as putting a weight on your break pedal and leaving it there. Hot rotors cooling off with pads squeezed around them = warping.

 

INCORRECT my dear friend. the parking brake uses the "drum in disc" component of your braking system. when you apply the parking brake you are not applying pressure to the disc brakes whatsoever (as this is a hydraulic system), you are in fact pulling a cable that engages the drum brake that is embeded in the rear disc brakes. the parking brake is incapable of warping anything whatsoever.

 

edalang: is it the same side that keeps warping or both front? if it's the same one that warps then it's probably ur caliper binding and overheating it causing them to warp. change out the caliper if so...

Jay

 

Unless the rotors were meant for cross-drilling, they will crack and warp. That's why the cross-drilled Brembo blanks are bad -- they are made as solid discs, then other companies buy them, drill and slot them. They were not meant to be drilled and/or slotted.

Contact Scott at Insight Motorsports. I get a lot of my parts from him, and he's good to work with. Send him an IM at TLSon19z and tell him Rob from Michigan sent ya, and mention my screen name GrandPrixC just in case he doesn't remember. He'll take care of ya.

If you can swing the cash, then get the Rotora BBK. I got my BBK and rear Rotora slotted rotors from Scott, and they are fabulous.

 

Hey guys, I have a new shipment of ROTORA slotted rotors coming in and I do have the combo rotors in stock. PM me for prices.

 

How much do your rotoras go for?

 

PM Sent. Thanks Josh.

 

Au contraire;

Where do you think the parking brake applies to? The rotor hub. If you drove with the parking brake on for a long time, it will produce intense heat, which will heat up the hub along with the rotor, and eventually the wheel. At this point, if you sit still with your brakes applied, then it could warp the rotors.

 

Actually, Doc Holliday is absolutely correct. You should not introduce water (especially cold) to the rotors immediately after driving the car.

However, it's a different story in the rain example you mentioned, because the pads are in constant contact with the rotors even when you are not applying the brakes. So this keeps the braking system at operating temperature, which is enough to dissipate any rain water that gets to the braking system.

Also, since the braking system rests within the wheel, not a whole lot of water gets in there in the first place. But even if it did, the spinning momentum of the rotors would just spit out the water.

 

but the fact that its the rear and not the front so the fronts warping hyave nothing to do with the rear..

2 very big keys to making rotors last longer is when new DO NOT bed the pads in until the rotors have had a chance to heat cycle. meaning drive nice and easy on them for atleast 300 miles avoiding hard stopping if possible.

2nd make sure the rims are torqued properly and not over torqued.

and lastly unless your rotors were just used at the race track (meaning if you were driving normally) water wont hurt them.
and if you were doing some very spirited driving, drive arounds a while to let them cool before you park the car

 

Right; the parking brake doesn't affect the front brakes. But it can cause a problem in the rear if left engaged while driving.

 

Agreed. A lot of shops use air guns to torque lug nuts. Saves them time so they can get to more cars. This is a major cause of my warp rotor problems. Even tire shops don't use torque wrenches properly. Invest in a $50 torque wrench and loosen then re-torque your lugs after someone works on your wheels.

 

If your around when the shop is putting the wheels back on the car hang out w/ them and ask to torque them to 80ft-lbs (?). They'll either use a torque wrench or torque sticks attached to the impact wrench. The torque wrench is prefered. Oh and criss-cross pattern should be obvious but make sure they do it.

 

DAMMIT. I knew about #2...BUT I think I must of read FALSE info on this board prior to installing my rotors/pads...since I was advised that the proper thing to do is Bed in your brakes ASAP.

So guess what...I did just that...now my rotors (brand new Rotora & Axxis Ultimates) vibrate when I do moderate braking from 60-80 MPH.

What's REALLY weird is that I get NO vibration at all at other speeds...and if I do HEAVY braking from 60-80 I get no vibration either.

 

OK now i need to get some nice rotors for a good price can someone gimme suggestions? i dont know if i need some regular vented ones, cross drilled, slotted or both i just want something that will stop the car so i my head wont end up in someones sub box or something or even end up laying my head on some kids lap from the trunk with my head stuck BASICALLY I NEED A GOOd ROTOR AND BRAKE PAD COMBO HELP

 

get a set of brembo blanks and ebc green stuff pads

 

yea common misconception. i learned that from racing, be easy on them first, then bed them in. my brakes would last 3 times longer than if i just went and bed them in right away

 

I wonder if the hard braking is for established rotors and new pads. ??

I do know that when you put new rotors you're supposed to baby them for the first xxx miles. On cross-drilled you don't want them to crack.