Valve Adjustment
09-01-2010, 03:48 PM
#1
Valve Adjustment
My car has been lacking a little bit on power as well as fuel mileage as of lately...After doing some reseacrh on here, I've came to the conclusion that it may be time for a valve adjustment...?
First off, what exactly is involved with a valve adjustment and could this be the root of my problem?
Are there any signs that I should look for to know if they need adjusting or not?
I have done the full seafoam method, regularly use fuel injector cleaner, use 93 octane only...I also just did an oil change and trans fluid change if it has any relevance.
First off, what exactly is involved with a valve adjustment and could this be the root of my problem?
Are there any signs that I should look for to know if they need adjusting or not?
I have done the full seafoam method, regularly use fuel injector cleaner, use 93 octane only...I also just did an oil change and trans fluid change if it has any relevance.
09-01-2010, 04:24 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
Do you hear any ticking from the valves while the motor is running?
09-01-2010, 04:32 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
needing a valve adjustment.
09-01-2010, 06:26 PM
#6
2003 TL-p
you have to take off the IM and remove the valve covers. ull need a wrench and a feeler gauge. i have not done this yet, but its pretty straight forward. google valve adjustment diy or something.
Valves:
E = .28-.32 mm (.011-.013 inches)
I = .20-.24 mm (.008-.009or.008 inches)
locknut 14f/lbs
someone correct me if i am wrong.
Valves:
E = .28-.32 mm (.011-.013 inches)
I = .20-.24 mm (.008-.009or.008 inches)
locknut 14f/lbs
someone correct me if i am wrong.
09-01-2010, 06:41 PM
#7
Senior Moderator
you have to take off the IM and remove the valve covers. ull need a wrench and a feeler gauge. i have not done this yet, but its pretty straight forward. google valve adjustment diy or something.
Valves:
E = .28-.32 mm (.011-.013 inches)
I = .20-.24 mm (.008-.009or.008 inches)
locknut 14f/lbs
someone correct me if i am wrong.
Valves:
E = .28-.32 mm (.011-.013 inches)
I = .20-.24 mm (.008-.009or.008 inches)
locknut 14f/lbs
someone correct me if i am wrong.
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09-01-2010, 06:42 PM
#8
Senior Moderator
If that is the problem it could be. How do you know you are down on power? Dyno? 1/4 times slower? You do know its dead of summer when temps and humidity is at its highest which slow the car.
09-01-2010, 08:22 PM
#9
stop running fuel cleaner all the time- it will hurt the plugs if done to excess
seafoam it in the tank twice a year and buy Tier1 gas
If you dont know how to listen for a loose valve- let a pro do the adjustment
Its easy to screw things up in a big way
seafoam it in the tank twice a year and buy Tier1 gas
If you dont know how to listen for a loose valve- let a pro do the adjustment
Its easy to screw things up in a big way
09-02-2010, 01:46 AM
#11
ok, I was concerned you were getting crazy with the gummyout or something
but sounds like you are on the right program
I got a bit excessive with repeated foam in the bike gas tank-
Based on `plug reading` charts, they had a distinct fuel cleaner buildup on them,,
glad they are 4 for $10,, not 10 each~
but sounds like you are on the right program
I got a bit excessive with repeated foam in the bike gas tank-
Based on `plug reading` charts, they had a distinct fuel cleaner buildup on them,,
glad they are 4 for $10,, not 10 each~
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-02-2010 at 01:52 AM.
09-02-2010, 01:51 AM
#12
OP
if the mileage is down and so is power-assuming new plugs, seafoam, air filter good, tire pressure right:
get the Cat checked at a muffler shop- they do a heat and flow test, most places for free
and you or they can do an electrical test on the O2 sensor
anywhere over 100kmiles and its ready for valve adjust- will be a few off at least
if the mileage is down and so is power-assuming new plugs, seafoam, air filter good, tire pressure right:
get the Cat checked at a muffler shop- they do a heat and flow test, most places for free
and you or they can do an electrical test on the O2 sensor
anywhere over 100kmiles and its ready for valve adjust- will be a few off at least
09-02-2010, 05:46 AM
#13
OP
if the mileage is down and so is power-assuming new plugs, seafoam, air filter good, tire pressure right:
get the Cat checked at a muffler shop- they do a heat and flow test, most places for free
and you or they can do an electrical test on the O2 sensor
anywhere over 100kmiles and its ready for valve adjust- will be a few off at least
if the mileage is down and so is power-assuming new plugs, seafoam, air filter good, tire pressure right:
get the Cat checked at a muffler shop- they do a heat and flow test, most places for free
and you or they can do an electrical test on the O2 sensor
anywhere over 100kmiles and its ready for valve adjust- will be a few off at least
And 95k on the car.
09-02-2010, 11:20 AM
#15
what plugs did you use? NGK Iridium or NGK Platinum?
or 2 buck Chucks specials they told you would work?
or 2 buck Chucks specials they told you would work?
09-02-2010, 10:00 PM
#17
I need 2 more gears
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Springvale, Maine
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OP
if the mileage is down and so is power-assuming new plugs, seafoam, air filter good, tire pressure right:
get the Cat checked at a muffler shop- they do a heat and flow test, most places for free
and you or they can do an electrical test on the O2 sensor
anywhere over 100kmiles and its ready for valve adjust- will be a few off at least
if the mileage is down and so is power-assuming new plugs, seafoam, air filter good, tire pressure right:
get the Cat checked at a muffler shop- they do a heat and flow test, most places for free
and you or they can do an electrical test on the O2 sensor
anywhere over 100kmiles and its ready for valve adjust- will be a few off at least
OP have you ever cleaned your EGR valve? CAT plugged or close to it will absolutely destroy performance and MPG like 01tl4tl said.
09-02-2010, 11:05 PM
#21
a go/ no go is a specialized feeler guage, thats what you want
Old school type has one thickness along the blade- and you have to guesstimate correct amount of `drag`. ok for well experienced,, but the average person should use the right tool for the job
a go/no go:
The end of blade is thinner and goes up to a thickness where there is a step that blocks it at a set height
The thickness just before the stop will be stamped on each one
you slide it in and if it has slight drag and stops at the bump,,not going past it (which would be `loose`) you are good on that valve
try a size up and down to be sure of pressure and correct feel, its easy with the guage
If it wont go in, its a `tight` valve
Both conditions are bad for different reasons - but `on spec` makes everything work better, as the valves open and close when, and for how long they are supposed to.
At least 2-3 or more will be off spec, that limit being very close
myself- before valve adjustment, run seafoam ~1/2 can and drive 30+ minutes, change oil and filter
Now the adjustment areas will be clean and running fresh oil ,so clearances will set right the first time
as for 100kmiles being a `rule`- where it says As Needed (guess how you tell if its needed--stick a feeler guage in it!)
the book also says earlier if severe service conditions
Find me someone on Earth NOT driving in severe conditions~
With your mechanics stethascope you can monitor the valve noise and tell when one is not perfect anymore, it stands out thru them
fuel injected cars need good valve settings- its constant calculations against formulas and sensors
With all that done at spec on a new engine
While you may think your car runs great now- it will run better with this done
Old school type has one thickness along the blade- and you have to guesstimate correct amount of `drag`. ok for well experienced,, but the average person should use the right tool for the job
a go/no go:
The end of blade is thinner and goes up to a thickness where there is a step that blocks it at a set height
The thickness just before the stop will be stamped on each one
you slide it in and if it has slight drag and stops at the bump,,not going past it (which would be `loose`) you are good on that valve
try a size up and down to be sure of pressure and correct feel, its easy with the guage
If it wont go in, its a `tight` valve
Both conditions are bad for different reasons - but `on spec` makes everything work better, as the valves open and close when, and for how long they are supposed to.
At least 2-3 or more will be off spec, that limit being very close
myself- before valve adjustment, run seafoam ~1/2 can and drive 30+ minutes, change oil and filter
Now the adjustment areas will be clean and running fresh oil ,so clearances will set right the first time
as for 100kmiles being a `rule`- where it says As Needed (guess how you tell if its needed--stick a feeler guage in it!)
the book also says earlier if severe service conditions
Find me someone on Earth NOT driving in severe conditions~
With your mechanics stethascope you can monitor the valve noise and tell when one is not perfect anymore, it stands out thru them
fuel injected cars need good valve settings- its constant calculations against formulas and sensors
With all that done at spec on a new engine
While you may think your car runs great now- it will run better with this done
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-02-2010 at 11:07 PM.
09-02-2010, 11:09 PM
#22
you will need 2 valve cover gaskets
09-03-2010, 08:51 PM
#23
I need 2 more gears
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Springvale, Maine
Age: 45
Posts: 3,228
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a go/ no go is a specialized feeler guage, thats what you want
Old school type has one thickness along the blade- and you have to guesstimate correct amount of `drag`. ok for well experienced,, but the average person should use the right tool for the job
a go/no go:
The end of blade is thinner and goes up to a thickness where there is a step that blocks it at a set height
The thickness just before the stop will be stamped on each one
you slide it in and if it has slight drag and stops at the bump,,not going past it (which would be `loose`) you are good on that valve
try a size up and down to be sure of pressure and correct feel, its easy with the guage
If it wont go in, its a `tight` valve
Both conditions are bad for different reasons - but `on spec` makes everything work better, as the valves open and close when, and for how long they are supposed to.
At least 2-3 or more will be off spec, that limit being very close
myself- before valve adjustment, run seafoam ~1/2 can and drive 30+ minutes, change oil and filter
Now the adjustment areas will be clean and running fresh oil ,so clearances will set right the first time
as for 100kmiles being a `rule`- where it says As Needed (guess how you tell if its needed--stick a feeler guage in it!)
the book also says earlier if severe service conditions
Find me someone on Earth NOT driving in severe conditions~
With your mechanics stethascope you can monitor the valve noise and tell when one is not perfect anymore, it stands out thru them
fuel injected cars need good valve settings- its constant calculations against formulas and sensors
With all that done at spec on a new engine
While you may think your car runs great now- it will run better with this done
Old school type has one thickness along the blade- and you have to guesstimate correct amount of `drag`. ok for well experienced,, but the average person should use the right tool for the job
a go/no go:
The end of blade is thinner and goes up to a thickness where there is a step that blocks it at a set height
The thickness just before the stop will be stamped on each one
you slide it in and if it has slight drag and stops at the bump,,not going past it (which would be `loose`) you are good on that valve
try a size up and down to be sure of pressure and correct feel, its easy with the guage
If it wont go in, its a `tight` valve
Both conditions are bad for different reasons - but `on spec` makes everything work better, as the valves open and close when, and for how long they are supposed to.
At least 2-3 or more will be off spec, that limit being very close
myself- before valve adjustment, run seafoam ~1/2 can and drive 30+ minutes, change oil and filter
Now the adjustment areas will be clean and running fresh oil ,so clearances will set right the first time
as for 100kmiles being a `rule`- where it says As Needed (guess how you tell if its needed--stick a feeler guage in it!)
the book also says earlier if severe service conditions
Find me someone on Earth NOT driving in severe conditions~
With your mechanics stethascope you can monitor the valve noise and tell when one is not perfect anymore, it stands out thru them
fuel injected cars need good valve settings- its constant calculations against formulas and sensors
With all that done at spec on a new engine
While you may think your car runs great now- it will run better with this done
Damn your reasoning is getting me thinking now. I always do whatever I can to make sure my car runs perfect. Now my OCD side is letting your post change my mind and want to do a valve adjustment.
09-03-2010, 10:37 PM
#24
it will help it run if you do it --maybe `foam and oil change so all the surfaces are clean
gets the best reading
do the TL adjust dead cold-overnight cold to get accurate reading
any heat changes the clearance and it will be off when running
back in the early days of the datsun 280Z- their first fuel injected engine in that body-
they needed valve adjustments every 7500 miles! and they really did need it!
bimmers were the same and worse to work on
gets the best reading
do the TL adjust dead cold-overnight cold to get accurate reading
any heat changes the clearance and it will be off when running
back in the early days of the datsun 280Z- their first fuel injected engine in that body-
they needed valve adjustments every 7500 miles! and they really did need it!
bimmers were the same and worse to work on
09-03-2010, 10:47 PM
#25
you are at 209,000 Miles and never did the valve adjust--
and you say you take the best care of your car?? and it runs fine
cant wait to hear how many were off in which direction--
and how much smoother, faster and overall new feeling the car is
Tip- Mark the 2 correct size feeler blades you are using with different tape colors- one for intake and the other exhaust blue and red or write on masking tape IN OUT
double check which is about to measure each time, easy to get confused
always run thru the entire set once to set, then again to ck they are all perfect
Its easy to get a little movement in the adjuster as you tighten the locknut
done the plugs in the last 75k?
and you say you take the best care of your car?? and it runs fine
cant wait to hear how many were off in which direction--
and how much smoother, faster and overall new feeling the car is
Tip- Mark the 2 correct size feeler blades you are using with different tape colors- one for intake and the other exhaust blue and red or write on masking tape IN OUT
double check which is about to measure each time, easy to get confused
always run thru the entire set once to set, then again to ck they are all perfect
Its easy to get a little movement in the adjuster as you tighten the locknut
done the plugs in the last 75k?
09-03-2010, 10:54 PM
#26
Its NOT OCD to perform required routine maitenance on your car 
look at the actual list in the book of what to do at each interval,,who lubes all the cables hinges and door locks,,does the proper inspection procedure on the cv boots,,,thats just doing a good job
Its not even close to obsessive until you have to polish the painted brake calipers before a ziner meet
washing repeatedly isnt enough...must repaint and polish...
look at the actual list in the book of what to do at each interval,,who lubes all the cables hinges and door locks,,does the proper inspection procedure on the cv boots,,,thats just doing a good job
Its not even close to obsessive until you have to polish the painted brake calipers before a ziner meet
washing repeatedly isnt enough...must repaint and polish...
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