Urgent Help: How to Tighten Manifold-Downpipe bolts?
11-18-2005, 04:24 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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Urgent Help: How to Tighten Manifold-Downpipe bolts?
hey im installing my headers RIGHT now and i have no idea how to tighten the Manifold-downpipe bolts.. someone suggested to me using an adjustalle wrench but that shit does not fit in at all...
also,i dropped one of the Manifold bolts and lost it... can i buy any kind to replace it?
thanks
also,i dropped one of the Manifold bolts and lost it... can i buy any kind to replace it?
thanks
11-18-2005, 09:31 PM
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2400 Watts in a TL...Why?
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use a socket set... there's no way an adjustable would fit in there..
Use can easily buy another bolt.. but what do you mean manifold bolt? The bolt holding the headers to the downpipe? (both piece came in the aftermarket headers).. THe manifold is on the engine and it has studs, not threaded holes.. meaning nuts will hold the headers onto the eninge not bolts..
Use can easily buy another bolt.. but what do you mean manifold bolt? The bolt holding the headers to the downpipe? (both piece came in the aftermarket headers).. THe manifold is on the engine and it has studs, not threaded holes.. meaning nuts will hold the headers onto the eninge not bolts..
11-18-2005, 09:40 PM
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i meant where the header-downpipe meet.... like if you just tighten the bottom you have to hold the top still.... finally got it.... took me 9 hrs by myself to install 
11-18-2005, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by big mike 13
i meant where the header-downpipe meet.... like if you just tighten the bottom you have to hold the top still.... finally got it.... took me 9 hrs by myself to install
beware of the rattling cat cover.
11-19-2005, 08:19 AM
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2400 Watts in a TL...Why?
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The "proper" way to do it would be to use a short (4") cresent wrench for the top header bolt and then a socket set for the lower nut, or bolt, depending which way you put the bolt.
I didn't have a short wrench or an adjustable when I did mine. I had to contort my arm into the engine bay from thebottom to hold teh nut while I used a socket wrench to tighten the bottom.
Another trick would be to buy a lock washer for each bolt. That way once the bolt tightens down onto the washer it will get resistance, thus holding the bolt from spinning , giving you the ability to tighten the bolt from one side.
Good to hear you got it done..
Jobs today:
- remove downpipe and install new gaskets (thanks to ndawood) on my downpipe/manifold connection
- Mobile 1 oil change with Fram synthetic filter
Oh by the way it's SNOWING OUT !!!! I better not spend 9 hours under my car!!
Wish Me Luck...
I didn't have a short wrench or an adjustable when I did mine. I had to contort my arm into the engine bay from thebottom to hold teh nut while I used a socket wrench to tighten the bottom.
Another trick would be to buy a lock washer for each bolt. That way once the bolt tightens down onto the washer it will get resistance, thus holding the bolt from spinning , giving you the ability to tighten the bolt from one side.
Good to hear you got it done..
Jobs today:
- remove downpipe and install new gaskets (thanks to ndawood) on my downpipe/manifold connection
- Mobile 1 oil change with Fram synthetic filter
Oh by the way it's SNOWING OUT !!!! I better not spend 9 hours under my car!!
Wish Me Luck...
11-19-2005, 08:30 AM
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well the #1 problem for me was removing the O2 Sensor harness.... lol
took me an hour to figure out how to unclip it...
i was going to use Crush washers like Austin319 says to use but i couldnt find them anywhre?
also took me hours to figure out how to hold the bolt..
took me an hour to figure out how to unclip it...
i was going to use Crush washers like Austin319 says to use but i couldnt find them anywhre?
also took me hours to figure out how to hold the bolt..
11-19-2005, 08:40 AM
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2400 Watts in a TL...Why?
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Got to love tackeling problems with your own two hands.. nice work brother.
-you will have to dive under there to tighten the bolts with in the next two weeks.. they naturally loosen after instllation as the pipes rattle/ bounce into the proper positions.
- If you have any hissing, after the bolts are re-tightened, I would suggest getting some liquid gasket from your local autozone, loosen the header connections, prefurbably not the downpipe/manifold connection, but the other three .
-Add liquid gasket to the gaskets both sides, and then re-install the gaskets.
and here's a post I did in another thread to solve the cat cover ratteling on the header/cat flange connections.
-you will have to dive under there to tighten the bolts with in the next two weeks.. they naturally loosen after instllation as the pipes rattle/ bounce into the proper positions.
- If you have any hissing, after the bolts are re-tightened, I would suggest getting some liquid gasket from your local autozone, loosen the header connections, prefurbably not the downpipe/manifold connection, but the other three .
-Add liquid gasket to the gaskets both sides, and then re-install the gaskets.
and here's a post I did in another thread to solve the cat cover ratteling on the header/cat flange connections.
The key is finding four bolts that are approx 2 inches in legngh.. inch and a half would work but it's easier with two inch.
1. Remove the bolts holding the cat cover on .
2. Get four new, longer bolts to use in place of the stock cat cover bolts.
3. Attach the new bolts to the one side of the cat cover,
4. Now on the opposite side of the (first) cat cover, attach two nuts to each bolt..
5. Then put the (first) cat cover onto the cat under the car.
6. Now attach another two nuts onto each of the bolts holding the (first) cat cover to the cat.
7. Attach the (second) cat cover to the cat, you may need to drill out the nuts welded to the (second) cat cover. Depending on the replacement bolts you choose, the ones I had lying around in the garage had a different thread pattern then the stock nuts so the replacement bolts would not properly screw into them. I quickly drilled out the center of the nuts to fix that problem.
8. Finally, attach another nut to each of the bolts, thus keeping everything, each cat cover and the cat, properly secured together, and spaced (by the nuts in steps 4 and 6) apart enough to clear the flange causing the ratteling.
Tada... Your cat cover is now properly on your car, spaced away from the cat, and it only took an hour MAX of your time..
1. Remove the bolts holding the cat cover on .
2. Get four new, longer bolts to use in place of the stock cat cover bolts.
3. Attach the new bolts to the one side of the cat cover,
4. Now on the opposite side of the (first) cat cover, attach two nuts to each bolt..
5. Then put the (first) cat cover onto the cat under the car.
6. Now attach another two nuts onto each of the bolts holding the (first) cat cover to the cat.
7. Attach the (second) cat cover to the cat, you may need to drill out the nuts welded to the (second) cat cover. Depending on the replacement bolts you choose, the ones I had lying around in the garage had a different thread pattern then the stock nuts so the replacement bolts would not properly screw into them. I quickly drilled out the center of the nuts to fix that problem.
8. Finally, attach another nut to each of the bolts, thus keeping everything, each cat cover and the cat, properly secured together, and spaced (by the nuts in steps 4 and 6) apart enough to clear the flange causing the ratteling.
Tada... Your cat cover is now properly on your car, spaced away from the cat, and it only took an hour MAX of your time..
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11-19-2005, 10:04 AM
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I need 2 more gears
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I agree tightening downpipe bolts are a pain, but once you get the right tools it is pretty easy. I tightened all 6 of mine in about 5 mins using correct tools and resonsnce was decreased also removed cat cover/heat shield as all the bolts were rusting away. now noise level is much lower and resonsnce is not as noticeable, still there but not bad. after over a year my stones look brand new still, great deal IMO. BTW what kind of headers did you get?
11-19-2005, 01:24 PM
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i went from Megans to Comptechs...
Megans always hissed under acceleration, and after i dropped my car i made a hole in teh flex pipe and also dented teh downpipe....
what a big difference! my car is finally quiet and feels like a whole new car...
but now i have a clunking sound.... i dont know if its my header... or my SWAY bar which i tried to change out... but i stripped my hex key and couldnt tighten it all the way on one side.... do you think this is causing the clunking or can it be my header?
hopefully i wont have no leaks because i dont want to do anything anymore
thanks
Megans always hissed under acceleration, and after i dropped my car i made a hole in teh flex pipe and also dented teh downpipe....
what a big difference! my car is finally quiet and feels like a whole new car...
but now i have a clunking sound.... i dont know if its my header... or my SWAY bar which i tried to change out... but i stripped my hex key and couldnt tighten it all the way on one side.... do you think this is causing the clunking or can it be my header?
hopefully i wont have no leaks because i dont want to do anything anymore
thanks
11-19-2005, 08:45 PM
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2400 Watts in a TL...Why?
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Originally Posted by big mike 13
just read your thread residual... what is this rattle you speak of? doesi t always happen? and why
It often happens because the header flange is slightly larger then the stock cat flange... The cat cover touches the aftermarket header flange, so when the car is on the cover tends to rattle on the flange.
I'll take pics tomorrow.. it's an easy fix..
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