I have been getting the usual PM's about this viscosity issue, and seeing posts from the usual Internet "experts", so I though you might be interested in this post I made on Stangnet. Ford went to 5w20 across the board and in the 2003 Cobras especially (same basic engine as 2001, which used 5w30...hmmmm).
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthrea...hreadid=181784

Short answer: 5w20 is for emissions and economy, period. It does not provide the high temp, high load protection of a 5 or 10w30 oil. Use it if you *****foot around, but I do not know one colleague at the SAE who does use it in summer months.

You can use 5w30 and 10w30 safely as long as the temp does not go below 0 degrees F for the 10w30.

Read the EPA letter - you can see how the EPA squeezes the mfr's to its will regarding the mineral oil requirement. So that is why when the worrywarts on the Stang threeads called SVT and asked them about synoils, they got a "your engine was not designed for it " idiot answer and posted it as an "in your face" response. I cracked that nonsense open with my EPA retort, and the simple fact that the mfr must recommend the oil that an enine was certified with, which in the case of the 5w20 juggernaut sewing machine oil, is mineral based.

Oh, and please, no responses that "Honda knows best" and "I am protecting my warranty". Honda does what is in its best interest first and foremost, and your warranty anxiety does not interest me particularly. Plus, thyey could never tell the difference - by the time a 5w20 mineral oil has 3000 miles on it, its lighter factions have boiled off, and it resembles a 30 weight anyway.

 

so...which one would u recommend and will u use 5W-20?

 

Actually, I am going with a 0w30 from Amsoil, the Series 2000 - it has the best additive package I have seen.

 

Sorry bud, but the 01 Cobra called for 5W20 also and there is not much that is the same between the 01 and the 03 motor.

Anyway back to the topic, me thinks all this garbage the manufacturers spew about oil viscosity is kind of like what doctors say about red wine every year, this year we think it is good for you, next year we won't.

 

So, Road Rage - When do you change your Oil... I went to Amsoil website and their recommendation is their oil will last 3 times as long. Would you go with their recommendations depending on how you drive your car???

"SERVICE LIFE

In personal cars and light-duty trucks with non-turbocharged gasoline engines: change the oil at 35,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first.

In turbocharged gasoline engines and occasionally used gasoline engines: change the oil at intervals up to three times longer recommended by the engine manufacturer or six months, whichever comes first.

In high performance and racing engines: specified by Owner Experience/Oil Analysis.

Marine four-cycle gasoline engines and infrequently used automotive four-cycle gasoline engines: drain oil at intervals up to three times longer than those recommended by the engine manufacturer, or one year, whichever comes first.

In fleet and industrial engines: drain oil at intervals up to two times longer than recommended by the manufacturer, or six months, whichever comes first.

AMSOIL Oil Filters should be changed at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals (whichever comes first) in gasoline engines. If a Hastings or other filter is used, filter should be changed at manufacturer's recommendation. "

 

I have always been of the "opinion" that the 5W20 was being pushed on us for fuel economy and emissions by the EPA. I have always felt that it was inferior as an engine lubricant and long term protection for vehicles driven in hot climates. I live in SO Cal, and make several trips to Las Vegas.

Unless I'm technically informed that it's a big mistake, I use Mobil-1 "SuperSyn" 5W30 and change it every 3k-5k miles. Due to paranoia, I also drain the tranny fluid with every oil change, and refill it with the 2 quarts of Honda ATF that drains out. It's easy enough to do while you're under there. Does anyone feel that I'm wasting my efforts in that regard, or is it a good thing for preventative "peace of mind" maintenance?

I now feel comfortable with my oil choice based upon Road Rage's expert evaluation of the situation. I would use the amsoil, if it were easily availble. But the Mobil 1 has got to be good enough for everyday drivers. I don't take it to the grand prix track or anything, so the hassle and price doesn't seem warranted to me. BUT I'm NOT flaming anyone who goes to that extreme.

Thanks again Road Rage for your continued great service to this board with your petroleum reports!

 

but can the syn oil reallie last 3 times longer?? it can be dried up in hot summer b4 it comes to the recommended mileage...

also i found it isn't necessary to change oil at their suggested mileage...usually can last about 600-1000miles more and still runs gd...

IMO, changing syn oil every 3k is just draining money out of ur pocket....the oil life has a lot more to go with that...=)

 

Road Rage = Our oil expert!

I would not take advice about oil if it isn't from Road Rage.

 

I would do what they say - in my case, i time out long before I mileage out - I drive the beast less than 3000/year, so I will drain at 6 months.

Kramer: My Stang buddies say it was 5w30 for the 2001 Cobra. And the engines are similar enough between 2001/2003 to eliminate the old "tolerances" argument demanding a thinner oil (that is why I made the comparison).

 

It can, and it does. Look at the factory cars that use oil monitors (like Porsche and BMW) - they can go as high as 15,000 miles before they demand an oil change on synoils.

Most people overchange their oil - cheap insurance and all that. But changing a quality synoil at 3,000 miles (unless you have reached the time interval) is wasteful. There IS plenty left on the shelf, and it could easily go 7500 miles or more. Red Line and Amsoil even longer, 10-12,000.

I do not recommend 25,000 intervals for any oil, even with the filter changes recommended (and 1 quart of makeup oil). Main reason is there could be a mechanical problem that would not show up and you might have run thusands of miles with coolant in your oil, a bad ring or bearing, etc.

That is why I rcommend a yearly oil analysis so you can monitor the health of your engine over time. That is real cheap insurance!

 

Man, I just change my oil and I find out you switched brands. :p

Anyway, I went with Mobile1, but mixed in a qrt of 0w-30 with 5w-30 for this go round.

The idle is smooth, and I hear no more noise than before. I was planning on going with a 50/50 ratio next time, but was a little unsure of the effects.

Based on your running 0w-30 all the way, it sounds like there shouldn't be any issues.

RUF

 

Ruf87:

Life moves pretty fast...you gotta stay on your toes!

All of the top tier oils, including the mineral oils, are outstanding. Agonizing over which is best will drive people crazy - witness how much binary storage is devoted to this stuff on these Forums.

I could use Mobil1 all day and night without any apprehension. As the unofficial Lube Man of the Stang sites, I have a rep to maintain.

You can mix viscosity types without worry - they are serial.

That is, according to my formula:
Vis = V1,2,3,4,5,6 /Vn

Where V1-V6 are the low and high numbers of a multivis, and Vn is the total number of quarts.

So if you have 3 quarts of 5w, and 3 of 0w, low vis = 15/6= 2.5

3 qts of 20w, 3 qts of 30w. = 150/6=25w

So you would have effectively a 2.5w/25 weight oil.

 

 

Road Rage,

I hear you. The fact that I even mixed indicates I've spent to much time thinking about what to use.

And thanks for the time you take to give us the necessary insight to make our decisions.

BTW - I'm still tempted to try Royal Purple. Being an old drag racer type it's tempting. However, drag racing is a bit of a different beast considering those engines are putting out 6,000HP and are never last for more than a couple of run, or usually less than 1 mile.

RUF

 

Use Royal purple and expect your engine to not last as long.

Royal Purple is made only for a short interval for racing only. Using it for normal driving, it showed MORE WEAR than a dino oil. It also showed it building up LOTS of sludge after using it a while on normal 3000 oil changes.

Royal Purple is just another crappy gimmick. It is mostly water and not really a good protectant to proven tests from BlackStone Labs. Use Amsoil or Redline if you want good protection.

 

Roadrage is absolutely correct. For some real data, go here.

eCo

 

Just for the record a 2001 cobra takes 5w-20. I personally owned one, and just sold it 3 weeks ago to get the tl-s. But never the less, I also agree that 5w-30 is better than 5w-20, and everything else in the posts about the wear issues of the 5w-20.

 

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Road Rage
Actually, I am going with a 0w30 from Amsoil, the Series 2000 - it has the best additive package I have seen.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Roadrage,

I think that much of what you write is very informative, but I am confused at some of the complete reversals in your choice of oils. Has something happened with Redline's additive package, at one time you used their 5w-20 exclusively. Then I recall you writing that you were using one Qt of Redline with 4 Qt's of Dino oil, and that this was more than sufficient for you. Now it's on to Amsoil, have they changed their additive package to be a better choice ?

So what oil company gets the silver star when your engine lasts for 200k ???

 

Although I have questions about their science and some of their claims, I find you post outrageous - mostly water - that is an outlandish claim and completely false..

 

If you read all my posts in their entirety, it is not at all inconsistent. I do admire Red Line, but I believe I said I would use its 5w20 only were I to use a 5w20 oil. I stand by what I have said about 5w20 oil, and if you read the EPA documents I referenced you would see that pertains to mineral oil, which i never have endorsed in 5w2o format.

I have also many times said that Red Line is hard to justify for most street drivers based on its cost.

I did reappraise Amsoil's new Series 2000 formula - although I still have major displeasure with the way they can mislead customers (such as the Falex tests), I did analyze the Series 2000 formula (which is costly) and found that it had the best additive package in terms of anti-wear components - even better than Red Line in that regard. Red Line is still the high temp king, which is better for racing.

I believe the mineral oil + 1 quart of synoil was a response to cost effective oil use, and to address some PM's I had revceived about synblends - my advice, roll your own and save.

Plus, for my Cobra, 0w30 made the best sense, and RL does not make that grade, but Amsoil does. So at least until the warranty expires, I will go with that, soince it is all but impossible for the drealer to differentiate from 5w20.

The thinking man constantly evaluates his positions and amends them to conform to proof....you guys always get my latest thinking, which you can accept or reject, depending on your wont.

 

Oil? Is that something we're supposed to be putting in our cars?

Seriously, it's nice to have you around again, RR, dropping some real knowledge on us.

 

Thanks, Hokie Boy! Hey - how is your tranny holding up? Love those ringers y'all play early on.