Trunk wont open
Trunk wont open
Why wont my trunk open? I took off the door panel and the connection seems fine. The switch in the glove compartment is the on position. When I hit the button, I don't even hear a click, nothing
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I checked the fuses too, nothing. Any advice? Any info would be great. Been about 2 months now, driving me crazy. I just throw everything in my back seat, groceries, stroller, etc,
,
I checked the fuses too, nothing. Any advice? Any info would be great. Been about 2 months now, driving me crazy. I just throw everything in my back seat, groceries, stroller, etc,
theres an emergency trunk release button if you open the middle compartment in the back seat. just reach up and just pull it and the trunk will open. might help for now until you find out whats wrong with it.
Yeah, Try what FreeaTLast suggested, as it'll get you closer to the problem.
If the driver's side button and the key fob don't open your trunk, and you've already
checked the glove box switch...........then on to the potential problem.
The clicking sound is more than likely the relay trying to energize the trunk latch's solenoid. The solenoid is located to the right side of the latch assembly on the bottom of the deck lid. A simple enough thing to replace, but chances are that you will need to go through ACURA to purchase this part. You'll still save the labor costs of the "stealership". Good luck man, let us know how it works out.
PS: There's a way to check the power to the solenoid and all that stuff. One other thing is to get in the glove box and work that trunk opener switch on and off to make sure that it's not gunked up !
If the driver's side button and the key fob don't open your trunk, and you've already
checked the glove box switch...........then on to the potential problem.
The clicking sound is more than likely the relay trying to energize the trunk latch's solenoid. The solenoid is located to the right side of the latch assembly on the bottom of the deck lid. A simple enough thing to replace, but chances are that you will need to go through ACURA to purchase this part. You'll still save the labor costs of the "stealership". Good luck man, let us know how it works out.
PS: There's a way to check the power to the solenoid and all that stuff. One other thing is to get in the glove box and work that trunk opener switch on and off to make sure that it's not gunked up !
I had to remove my rear seat before and crawl through trunk, unscrew the latch from car/trunk to open the trunk. I turned my speakers up and the cable came loose from the latch mechanism.
If your trunk wont open you have to go this route. GL
If your trunk wont open you have to go this route. GL
Thanks guys. I think I'm going to run a new wire with a latch somewhere into the cabin so I wont need to reach the middle compartment. When people are the back seat, so annoying. I have to ask someone to step out so I can open the trunk, WACK! I think old school manual latches are the shit. Simple and effective, the worst thing that can happen is the wire snaps but hopefully that wont be the case. Maybe use the original trunk button for a cut off switch or something.
If you have a basic VOM, there's a few things that could be done at the switch at the drivers door. If you remove the switch, you will see two wires: a blue/white and a white. With your VOM set to 12 volts DC, the blue/white wire should read battery voltage (12.6V). With switch plugged in and the button depressed, the white wire should now read the same voltage (12.6V). If it doesn't read the same as the blue/white when you depress the switch, you have a bad switch and need to replace it. You can confirm the switch is bad by jumping both wires at the connector with a small piece of wire and it should then energize the trunk actuator thus open the trunk. If there's no power at the blue/white, you either have a bad main switch inside the glove compartment (you already confirmed it was ON) or fuse 12 (20A) in the passenger side fuse block. If the switch is passing power, you more than likely have a bad trunk release actuator or a break in the harness...or a bad ground of which is located in the left rear of the trunk near the drivers tail light assembly.
Good luck and hope this helps!
Good luck and hope this helps!
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For those who need help with ANY problem you might have that involves anything with a wire, don't hesitate to ask me to help. Just do me a favor before asking: make sure you have a VOM on hand or if your check engine light is on, the codes pulled from the ECM's memory.
@ Yungone501 : Wow, that's a very thoughtful and generous offer on your behalf !
It's good to know that we have an experienced fellow 'Ziner willing to share his knowledge to help walk us through troublesome electrical issues.
Thanks again, and as always, if there's anything that we may be able to help with, we will try our best!
It's good to know that we have an experienced fellow 'Ziner willing to share his knowledge to help walk us through troublesome electrical issues.
Thanks again, and as always, if there's anything that we may be able to help with, we will try our best!
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