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It happen always same way at 32F or below. First it happen only in morning when car wasn't driven over night. Probably will be during days to when get colder but not for now. I start car. From parking to R go perfectly good. From R, when I'm out of parking spot, to D5 go perfectly good to. Then I drive a block or so till first stop. I guess tranny go to 3. speed along way. There when I stop at first stop and lift my foot of brake pedal and car is in D5 is where car stay in spot. I have to do D5 to neutral or just wait for 30 seconds and up, depend at how cold is it. After it car drive good and tranny switch speeds good to. Just always at that point at first stop after starting in morning.
I'm aware of that tread https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p...-again-929434/ . It is cleaning of two pressure solenoids. Wonder if someone pinpoint problem. I see many ziners have same problem in multiple generations. I do not have any code, checked.
^
Just curious, how long do you wait, to let the engine warm up (where is needle on temp gauge?) on such cold days, before you start off on your commute?
^
It's up to you; however, with your tranny now acting like this, for grins & giggles, clock 5-7+minutes to let the car warm up and report back as to whether it makes a difference?
Warming up in morning solve problem. Yesterday was 8F in morning and did warm car 2-3 min. Had problem probably only for 1s when I did stop. If would warm up little longer all would be good. Did check lower pressure switch and it is clean as it go as is filter in pipe that is in one of holes. So didn't clean that two filters as there is nothing to clean. Will do upper one when I get time. If that do not work will simple warm up car before go.
Did clean upper, linear solenoid and did replace transmission filter. Same problem. Checked ohmage of linear solenoid and it was 5,3 and 5,4 ohms. Didn't do test under load as I have problem when is cold and it was 50F when I did cleaning. I guess will drive so till figure out how to test solenoids in driving. Obviously car computer do not help with this.
^^^ That do not prove that tranny is at way out. Can be that tranny went because of this. Strange that everyone have same symptoms, slipping in cold at first stop but nobody can clear what is problem exactly.
Well one week after filter obviously did some cleaning. Now at first stop after starting, in 10 to 20F, need go only 1-2 times to neutral and back to drive for tranny to connect. One week before it was 6-7 times. So basically good enough.
one of the early signs for me before i had to eventually do the infamous tranny swap
To the Contrary; I think most find that the transmission slowly starts to slip when warm, then slips more (creating more fluff in the fluid) which blocks passages, reducing clutch pressure and this increases the wear yet further.
When cold; things aren't plugged up yet, and clutch discs haven't warped from the heat generated from slipping some more...you can squeeze a few minutes out of driving it normally; I think further if you use SS to skip gears?
I managed to get a whole other 10 trips to the grocery store (55 miles in total) out of my TL this way...eventually I put her to rest in the garage for a few years before I found out about the AV6 swap.
Well one week after filter obviously did some cleaning. Now at first stop after starting, in 10 to 20F, need go only 1-2 times to neutral and back to drive for tranny to connect. One week before it was 6-7 times. So basically good enough.
What's the symptoms when troubleshooting in the manual? does it work in any gear? I have barely noticed recently that D2 skips 1st gear? any movement in R or D2?
I drive only in D5 and symptoms are as is wrote in post #1. Now whit new filter as I said need only once to twice do D5 to N and basically problem is solved. I can live with it. If tranny will go there is always 3-4 Accords 06-07 at my U pull and tranny is 100$. Would rent a garage for one month where my friend do maintenance. But I do not think it will happen any time soon. My acura tl 03 has 296k and I plan to keep it for next 5 years or so. Key for long lasting in Mn is rust fighting, and I do spraying of Fluid Film in subframe and cosmoline over rust. Just as I do with my pickup.
R always connect, not slipping in R.
I drive only in D5 and symptoms are as is wrote in post #1. Now whit new filter as I said need only once to twice do D5 to N and basically problem is solved. I can live with it. If tranny will go there is always 3-4 Accords 06-07 at my U pull and tranny is 100$. Would rent a garage for one month where my friend do maintenance. But I do not think it will happen any time soon. My acura tl 03 has 296k and I plan to keep it for next 5 years or so. Key for long lasting in Mn is rust fighting, and I do spraying of Fluid Film in subframe and cosmoline over rust. Just as I do with my pickup.
R always connect, not slipping in R.
that’s right, I normally drive in D4 or D5 myself, but next time it occurs try out those other modes to see how they react; that could tell you a little more information with regard to where the issue is and with that perhaps you could resolve it completely.
Still always automatic in 1. and 2.. "Even with the Sequential SportShift Mode selected, the transmission will automatically upshift and downshift between first and second gear."
I was wrong. I have first gear to at manual. Just move from 2. sh to left. And when it was in 1 transmission shifted without problem. Obviously it is solenoid problem. Will replace that linear one next year but need to find some newer at U pull. Will not pay 70$ to Amazon for it nor 500$ to Autozone. Btw what Autozone management think, that only retard walk this planet?
^^^ Witetiger it was smart call to check manual 1. and 2.. It directed me somewhat where is problem. Obviously in 2003 Honda didn't have stellar capability to diagnose transmission on off, or cold weather only, problem. It would be handy if would computer throw some code.
Well it was -18F here a few days go and it make me deep thinking. My transmission, and others, always go to 1. speed after start is because moving handle from P to D5 is made by Acura so tranny bypass solenoids and act like I did move handle to 1. As I can drive now whit transmission cold because I move it to 1 than to 2, D3 and so it turn that problem, when is cold, is not only in switching from neutral to first than from first to second and up. That mean it is one of pressure solenoids and not shift solenoid as I have this problem in cold weather across multiple speed. For sure will replace one than second pressure solenoid this summer.
Capability to manually switch to 1, 2, D3 is huge help as now I cannot go stuck square across some road after go out of my side road. Imagine before wait for traffic to clear than press gas but car go just to middle of road square and live me there looking traffic coming at me from both directions and me trying N-D5 with speed of light. Now simply transfer to 1, 2 and so and go my way.
Well it was -18F here a few days go and it make me deep thinking. My transmission, and others, always go to 1. speed after start is because moving handle from P to D5 is made by Acura so tranny bypass solenoids and act like I did move handle to 1. As I can drive now whit transmission cold because I move it to 1 than to 2, D3 and so it turn that problem, when is cold, is not only in switching from neutral to first than from first to second and up. That mean it is one of pressure solenoids and not shift solenoid as I have this problem in cold weather across multiple speed. For sure will replace one than second pressure solenoid this summer.
Capability to manually switch to 1, 2, D3 is huge help as now I cannot go stuck square across some road after go out of my side road. Imagine before wait for traffic to clear than press gas but car go just to middle of road square and live me there looking traffic coming at me from both directions and me trying N-D5 with speed of light. Now simply transfer to 1, 2 and so and go my way.
I've always wanted to use this emoji...prob less happy and more nervous as cars came at you from both sides!
What I should have do is when I pulled out parallel and single pressure solenoids in summer, I should put it in freezer and then test it with battery. Will do this summer.
Still a problem here. This guy has EXACTLY the same problem. Only it in my case starts at 40F and below. Obviously many other owners have the same problem. And he found what is problem. Honda even made bulletin about it. It is in the second link. But it seems the problem goes all way to 2009 transmissions. So even baya transmission is affected.
"A fluid/filter change and a bottle of this Lucas with 6.5qurts of valvaline synthetic trans fluid and it saved me from buying an $1800 transmission. The car wasn’t shifting out of first, even manually. It shifts through all the gears, by its self and pulls great all the way through the rpm ranges."
When tranny will go in 4-5 years will go to U-pull take one from Honda 07-08 for 100$, rent a garage for another 100$ and put it on. There is like 10 Hondas and Odysseys with Baya at my U-Pull. Will check obviously first if I can move tranny at flywheel.
Holly cow. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2615-so...djustment-tool
1. Place pentagon-shaped tip of solenoid adjustment tool into adjuster screw recess of clutch pressure control solenoid “A” or “B.”
2. Turn adjuster screw 1⁄8 to 1⁄4 turn clockwise to increase pressure for solenoid "A", and counterclockwise to increase pressure for solenoid "B". CAUTION: Exceeding 1/4 turn can result in a downshift clunk.
Adjusting ratios will not compensate for severe unit wear or a defective solenoid.
Well, it was cold the past week and transmission started to behave wilder. Like even when I start drive tranny had problem go in R and 1st. Before didn't have such problem than only at first stop. And then at higher speed sometime miss 4th and 5th.. I do check from time to time and no code. Engine light is on from evap code.
Today I was 27 miles from home and it is relatively warm, 33F. At the stop light when the car was warm already car moved little but rev of engine jump. I didn't like it again stayed there for a while in the area and the car didn't do that trick again. So, I went back to hwy on my way home and car made to 5. I say OK but at O turn from N to W I hope it will make to 2 and beck up. Well, it didn't make. The car was moving after O but only 40m per hour. So I went to local streets and I think car was driving only in 2. At one point car stop completely and I had to push it one block. Get lucky to find one spot to park at side street as these days because of lot of snow you can park only at one side of street in Mpls.
I shut down the car and was thinking how to go home, bus I guess. I was 10 miles away. Tried start again and car did throw in 1st.. It was a tough call. What if it stops again and I do not find a place to park? Would be towed away and would have to pay a penalty. The car was in limp mode, only 1 and 2 work and if i press more gas only engine rev up. Well I get risk and manage to come home through side streets covered in ice. Had to drive through downtown.
Checked code and there is P0740, P0730, P01750. I know it do not look good. Will put AB solenoid that I have at hand and if that do not work will think one week about AV6 tranny. But I do not think I will go that route as the car is 312K miles. Good in bad is that I managed drive car to my parking instead of it be 10 miles away from me.
Silver lining would be that I didn't hear or feel any metallic grinding.
"Usually with this type of failure, codes P0740, P0730, and P1750 are common" - Member "Yikes" in 2013. Yeah. And this thing that car was completely stopped and after shut down and restart it moved again happened to other Ziners too.
Did put AB solenoid that I had in and same problem. P1750 come back again. I drove around the area for 15 min or so till check engine pop up. Tranny is shifting erratic. I'm exploring options at the moment. Old AB solenoid shows proper ohmage when I checked in cold weather. So AB is not a problem as "new" has good ohmage to.
11-28-2020, 11:54 AM
