finalcross

iTrader: (3)

I ignored this until I saw a video saying if it takes more than 2 seconds for your transmission to shift into drive, it means you have a tranny problem. Also if there is a jolt, it means... I don't have any slipping and my reverse works perfect with no jolts and once I shift it goes smooth. I also did the 25 mph full throttle and no slipping.

The only problem I have is with D5 once I shift to it. No matter cold or hot, if I shift to D5, I will feel it moving into Drive as the car moves up slowly but then after a second I feel like a little jolt and then the tranny fully engages into Drive and it starts moving forward faster than once I first shift into D5. Its like it takes 2 shifts. If I shift into D5 and let go of the brake, the car will move up a little and then jolt forward and move at a faster pace at idle than once I shift and let go of the brake. Its like it engages a little and then fully engages after like 2 seconds. If I just shift to D5 and hold onto the brake for like 2 seconds. It doesn't jolt or take "2 shifts" because I guess that is long enough for it to fully engage and it will drive off nicely.

I don't see any other common problems like revs jumping up or anything. But the only thing is that I do notice like a little pull back once I let off the gas at around 20 mph (I think its 2nd gear). I'm pretty sure its 2nd gear because I tested it with SS mode. In 2nd gear if I let go of the gas completely, I will feel like a pull backwards on the car but in 3rd gear or any other gear, it doesn't do that.

I just want to know if I am expecting tranny problems soon or are these common things. I'm not sure because I haven't seen anyone else with these problems. But the shifting into D taking 2 seconds does sound like possible tranny problems soon.

youngson141

My car did this also and now i'm working on getting my trans rebuilt. but actually a lot of cars do this, some quicker then others. My moms 04' highlander takes about 2 seconds and it also jolts forward it put it in drive and release the brakes; if you keep the brake applied until it fully engages theres no jolt. My girlfriends lexus (still a toyota) switches faster into drive and doesn't jolt at all with or without the brake being applied, but she also recently had her trans rebuilt and my mom is still under her original trans. The day my trans started slipping, i shifted into drive and hit the gas trying to avoid getting hit by an idiot not looking behind him; i usually would've put it in drive, while holding the brake to let it engage itself completely.

This is just my experience though, i know somebody else would let you know if somethings wrong

acutee

That does not mean you have tranny problem. What's the mileage? One drain and refill, and replace the external tranny filter is the best maintenance insurance.

01tl4tl

wait until the car is engaged in Drive before trying to drive off~
2 seconds is normal time

Ck front motor mount- those will fail at 50k miles and never be seen until 90~
will make car run bad if vac boosted mount.. or allow movement that feels like trans prob

finalcross

iTrader: (3)

My tranny was changed in like April 08. I just bought it recently but I saw on the carfax that the transmission was overhauled during that time. I would expect that by 2008 they should be fixing the trannys perfectly but you never know. I was just wondering does anyone elses 99-03 TL do this? so I know if this is normal for the Tl's crappy trannys.

I told my friend to check my motor mounts but he said it was okay. He just did a visual check. I did a visual check too and my engine jumped up like 2 inches when I do the motor mount test. He said it was okay but I don't know. I'll have to record it and show you guys a video to see what you guys think. And I can't check for weird vac oil leaks because I live in the city and there is drops of water or spots on the floor no matter where u are so you never know if its from your car or it was already there unless its a big ass puddle.

01tl4tl

your friend is wrong- there should not be any movement- especially a 2 inch jump at the front motor mount on revving in park or drive

thats your problem

for its flud leak you will see that only if looking directly up from underneath- its only a few drops of a trail of fluid

Mr. Maker

iTrader: (4)

"your friend is wrong- there should not be any movement- especially a 2 inch jump "

have your buddy put your car in gear..hold down brake and accel...
if you see the motor move 2" or even 1"...then yes mnts are bad..

DuvalAcura

The front mount near the radiator and the passenger side mount are the most common on the 3.2 TLs. The actual transmission mounts hardly ever see any extensive wear, not saying the never go out though. Keep your trans regularly serviced, in fact OVER regulary since the 99-03 TLs are known for horrible transmissions.

finalcross

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I guess I should get my engine mounts checked out by a professional. Anyone know anywhere thats good in NYC? I don't feel like going to a dealership to get robbed.

What about the 2 shifts/ 2 seconds to shift into Drive problem? Should I worry about that?

01tl4tl

see how it is after the motor mounts
the front and rear are fluid filled AND vacuum boosted- so a bad mount causes vac/miss and driveabilty issues

2 seconds delay into drive from N is perfectly normal

01tl4tl

duval- its pretty late for a gen2 to get on an aggressive trans fluid change program--more problems than cures at this age

those with replaced trans, yes- get on a yearly change program

Mr. Maker

iTrader: (4)

i just told you how to check the mnts....

DuvalAcura

Yes I agree that there is a more than common problem with the 99-03 transmission. We see and average of 3-5 per week get replaced in our shop. I stated the fluid suggestion as it is a cheaper solution that may possibly help the situation, or at least prolong failure. All and all, agreed, your transmission will eventually go out. Depending on how often you spend money with your local dealership, they often times will split the cost of a transmission, wether it be 50% customer pay 50% warranty or 75/25 etc.