I've read the posts about year 2000+ cars not having a transmission fluid cooler - and really no practical way of adding one. Therefore, the timely changing the fluid seems to be imperative.

Here's are my questions:

1. What do you recommend as a change interval?

2. What fluid would you use?

3. Can you use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF?

4. Is there a filter change needed/required?

5. How much fluid is needed to complete a change?

6. Any other pearls of wisdom on this???

 

I changed my last car one a year, for less than $20 in parts I definitely dont see the harm, and will be doing the same on my TL-S. For all the debates about Synthetic Oil and Filters(which I use) you hear of far more tranny problems in Automatic Cars than you do about Engine failures due to wear or contaminants.

ONLY use Honda ATF as specified in the manual. I used synthetic on my last Accord, but that car could take it. Honda ATF wasnt required at that time which it is now.

You need 3 quarts to do an oil change type of change where you remove the drain plug, drain it, put it back in and refill. A Full tranny flush which can only be done at shops which have the flush machines will require much more.

No other pearls of wisdome really, its actually much easier than an oil change.

 

I use to work in a tranny shop when I was a kid....The old timers advise which held up then and I still practiced 25 years later.....Change the tranny fluid after 3000-5000 miles...Why??? All the parts in the tranny that are assembled are not squeeky clean from the machining process (Metal chips and burrs). Also when the parts are breaking in..an extra amount of metal is made. I drain my tranny oil at around 5000 on every new car that I have owned........Never a tranny problem....

Scientific fact I don't know.... I'm not a metallurgist
Common sense.... YES

Question... I just got my TLS a few weeks ago...Where's the tranny filter???? I can't find a pan... Does it have one?

 

i took my car in at around 3000miles and they told e to ocme back after i tack on 700 or more... they said the new cars they put some special oil in there so it can last a little longer than your ususal 3000miles.

BG

 

Syncivic was mentioning the tranny failures being do to bits of metal floating around. Perhaps a "true" flush early on (as you suggest) would be worth the money.

I've talked to a few people who have gotten a "true" flush from some of the dealers (claimed that all "gunk" was removed and all old trans. fluid was replaced) -- Any comments? (I had my Maxima SE pressure flushed and it was the first time the fluid looked perfectly clean.)

 

I checked with the dealer not too long ago and he informed that it's just a fluid change, there are no filters in tranny to replace. Can't confirm this and i want to believe dealer's service rep would know.

 

I personally changed my transmission fluid at 30K with the Honda ATF (only). Did not see any gunk when it was draining out.

 

Blackshadow,

How many bottles of fluid was needed to replace what was taken out, also, is it just unscrew the drain plug and let it run?

Thanks for the details, man.

 

when i changed the tranny fluid in my then 95 civic with amsoil synthetic, the honda dealer refused to do it saying that the slickness would dry out the cam seals and cause leaking. and i also thought that as long as the new fluid as the proper ingredient (dexcron III in that civic) then it was ok.

any truths to either points...

 

Jeez, the amount of crap that dealers and others float around is unbelievable!

1) Use only Honda ATF Z1 in our cars!
2) Synoils do not destroy seals, except perhaps the cheap Group 3 engine oils
3) There is no pan or filter - this is a transaxle!
4) There is a magnet on the drain plug - that will have tiny wear material on it - clean it well before re-installing

I recommend and replaced my fluid at 7500 - not so much for the wear debris issue, but because I want to ensure that the additives get into my transmission. Factory fills are from very large containers, and sometimes the additives fall out of suspension into the bottom of the containers. With bottles from the dealer, you turn them upside down for a day, then fill your transaxle, assuring that everything needed is actually in your tranny.

I swear (placebo effect) the transmission shifts smoother after I changed the fluid.

 

Yea you just unscrew the drain plug and let it run. Then refill it. I don't remember how many bottle(s) but I filled it up to the "full" mark on the stick.

 

On the Trans on the CL-S, 2.75 qts comes out, The correct flush method is to replace with two qts run for two minutes and repeat 3 times, refill the last time with 2.75 qts. This is Honda's method for removing 98% of the old trans oil. I did this myself, total cost was around $48 for the Hondas Trans oil. The fill plug is on top of the tranny marked "ATF", made this job really easy.

 

hmmmm, im not sure about the that flush process, it sounds expensive...but a little hint. go to ur honda dealership, i paid $3/bottle. at the acura dealership, it was $5/bottle

that ATF marked bolt sure makes things easy...!!!

and no, there is no filter in the tranny. i confirmed this a year ago when i first got my 97 cl 3.0

it takes just under 3 quarts to fill.

i am glad i read this. i have about 5 quarts laying around in my garage, gonna change it out whenever i get to 5k miles....

 

Good thread. I'm now convinced that changing my trans. fluid at 5k (or there abouts) is the right thing to do. What the heck, I'll do mom's Accord while I'm at it (she's right around 26k miles.)

Always get what you can (oil filters, drain plug washers, ATF, etc.) from a Honda dealer. Not only will it usually be cheaper, they're more willing to discount the parts prices! This I know for a fact (at least in my neck of the woods.) They can order Acura parts (not accessories,) if you provide them with part numbers. Works for me......

Jim

 

actually, my local honda dealership gave me the ATF washer...while my acura dealership wanted $$$ for everything..huh...ironic cause base price for cking over the car at acura is cheaper than at honda...jeje

 

erikL,it had been mentioned before,but the valdity is still in question,(if someone could get wayneG or Jens ) that a power flush may acctually force any of the metal or other contaminants into our internal permanant filter..yes,we do have a trannny filter i think all do,ours is internal..I'd really like to know because i entend to go red line...






im bumping this beacause i'd reall like to see an answer on the power flush...as intend to do a fluid change soon...

 

^

 

i was told by the guys in the service dept that there is a wire mesh filter in the tranny but its not serviceable, can only be gotten to when rebuilding it

 

The flush method I used (post earlier) was from "Jens" and also from Honda (Acura) service dept. The Honda Trans oil Z1 is about $5 qt. I used 9 qts doing the flush method; so I said my cost was around $48 doing the job myself. It's really easy to do. Still have a oil place do it if you feel better. I'm not a good judge of what's easy; I worked as a auto mechanic for a couple of years before getting into Electrical Engineering for the last 20 years.

 

Given the current state of affairs with our transmissions- I strongly reccomend that you change your trans oil at the first or second (3500 or 7500) oil change. It is cheap to do, can't hurt, and may even prevent future problems. Make sure to use genuine Honda/Acura fluid- I have heard (not seen) of problems with performance when using aftermarket fluid- so why temp fate?

Practice safe shifting- change your fluid

 

This is all good information. Since my S has 10K miles on it, it sounds like I might be doing a trans flush this weekend.

The dealer in my area charges $3.92 per quart and confirms the 9 quarts noted by fender4. The dealer charges $105 to perform the whole operation, including the ATF and washer.

BTW, the Honda dealer next door charges $5.88 qt for the same stuff.

 

Wayne & All-
Making an early fluid change sure can't hurt. But here's some interesting comparisons:
1. The Helms manual for the 2001TL recommends fluid change
at 120,000 mi or 6 yrs for normal driving & every 60,000 mi or 5 years, thereafter. For Severe Conditions it's every 60,000 mi or 3 yrs, followed by every 30,000 mi or 5 yrs. (see pg 3-14)

2. The TL tranny has an internal filter screen (not accessable at normal maintenance) for catching visible stuff & a magnetic drain
plug for trapping wear fines. The tranny & differential assembly holds 7.6 quarts, but drains only 2.9 quarts at fluid change.

3. My 1996 Volvo 850 w/ high pressure Turbo has no required changeout. Just inspect & add fluid if reqd. The automatic tranny & differential assembly holds 8 quarts.

4. In the '80s, my wife had a VW w/manual tran. There was no reqd fluid change, but it did have a magnetic drain plug.

5. I'm unable to find out what Acura/Honda parts actually fail. Tranny is very complex. Dealerships don't disassemble & fix, but send to factory for a rebuilt. Wayne, do you have any count of replaced TL trannys at your store? 1999?, 2000?, 2001?

6. My lo mi '01 TL runs great, no problems, sweet machine.

 

I was told that all Honda trannys have no filter pan.
Just take out the plug and drain.
Its easier than an engine oil change.

I did this on my civic and it took about 3 quarts.
Cost me $4 a quart.

 

there isnt much to undoing the drain bolt at the bottom of the tranny and taking off the filler bolt at the top of the tranny...then again, who has the patience to do that flush you described

 

Also, it isn't really a "flush". Each tranny drain removes approx 1/3 of total fluid. If you do it 3 times, you get a nice dilution of old & new fluid.
If you took a dump in the toilet, & used the same scheme, you'd get rid of the brown, but you'd still end up with tan.....Think about it.....

 

If you just drain and refill every year, the fluid will never deteriorate significantly, and debris caught on the magnet will be removed, and one can inspect the oil carefully. That is how I plan to handle it. To me this makes far more sense than doing the triple drain every 30k miles.

 

As usual, I agree with Road Rage. I do have one question, What's the best way to put ATF back in? It's hard to get adaptors for the small dip stick hole............

 

My goodness, I about passed out from LMAO!!! Well put.

Agree with RR as well. Change the fluid (at least it's a partial) once a year and clean the magnet. Cheap insurance.

And what about that tiny holed dispstick tube? That'll be a PITA.

Jim

 

Someone covered that earlier. There is a fill hole on top of the trans. Look for a screw labelled "ATF."

 

Got it. It helps when ya look! :p

Jim

 

I'm really cheap so I do everything myself; but if you want,
take it to Park Ave and "Wayne" they have the patience to replace the fluid or the trans and remember "Practice safe shifting- change your fluid"

 

yep, and didnt i mention that already...btw, dont even need a repair manual to figure it out...

hmmm, big bolt on the top of tranny w/letters ATF??? hmmmm???

also, i am cheap too, i always do all the maintenance/repairs myself...so long as i have or can borrow the right tools.

list on 97 cl:
change motor oil
tranny oil
replace alternator
change brake pads f/r
custom made cai
replace spark plugs
install redtop optima battery

list of paid service:
replace brake rotors w/poweslot ones
replace timing belt(damn, i need an air compressor and impact wrench)

 

Just spoke with my Acura Dealer today regarding the tranny fluid change and he recommended not to change as of yet. i am right at 5k miles and he said to wait until my 7500 mile service. Something about some special factory fluid that is meant to stay in the tranny until the 7500 mark.

 

I took a quick look under the car and see the drain plug, It looks like a 3/8 ratchet would do the trick, but it is most likely a metric size. Can anyone verify the exact size for the drain plug ?

 

I can't find the big bolt on the top of tranny w/letters ATF ! HELP !

 

i don't bother with a tranny fluid change every 5k miles.. i just end up getting a new tranny anyways...

 

The tranny re-fill bolt/plug is a 22mm size. Use a 22mm socket with a long extension to get the ratchet wrench up above the clutter so that you can work on it. It's a piece of cake then.

The actual plug is ON TOP of the tranny. You access it from under the hood. Take a look with a flashlight down to the top of the tranny just behind the air intake and just towards the center of the engine from the brake reservoir. YOU CAN'T MISS IT IF YOU TAKE THE TIME TO SEARCH AROUND A BIT. The BOTTOM DRAIN plug is a 3/8 inch SQUARE hole. Just use a short 3/8 inch extension on your ratchet wrench WITHOUT a socket attached and the square drive will fit exactly into the drain plug.

You can buy replacement crush washers from the dealer. In fact they give me new ones whenever I buy the HONDA ATF fluid from them. MAKE SURE YOU USE HONDA FLUID!!! They do not supply a new washer for the TOP re-fill plug. There is NO PRESSURE at that point in the system, and thus it does not need to be replaced when the fluid is replaced. Just replace the bottom drain plug washer. You will also probably find that BOTH plugs are extremely tight to break loose. I have a piece of 3/4 inch pipe about 10 inches long that I slide over my 3/8 inch ratchet wrench for added torque when loosening the nuts. Works just great. Obviously I don't put that much torque back on the wrench when I re-tighten everything.

GOOD LUCK!

 

it amazes me how you know that exact socket size...im always fumbling for the right socket then just throw it back into the tool box w/out thinking about what size it was. as for the bottom, piece of cake...why cant more huge bolts/plugs be made the same...?