Transmission Filter
#42
Senior Moderator
Thanks guys ! It looks easy enough. I'll probably just get the o-ring at the parts counter in case it's needed. If not this time, next time the filter gets done in a few years. I think I'll drain the transmission first just to reduce any spillage when I'm pulling lines off or disconnecting the filter. A few more questions:
Should I remove the airbox or the battery for easiest access?
About how much extra ATF will I need to add to my usual 3 quart refill?
Anyone cut the old filter in half to see the accumulation of metal shavings that are in there? Come to think of it, if the filter is doing such a good job, why do I see all that crap on the magnetic drain plug (of other TLs, mine is usually just a fine residue of what looks like a graphite lubricant).
Should I remove the airbox or the battery for easiest access?
About how much extra ATF will I need to add to my usual 3 quart refill?
Anyone cut the old filter in half to see the accumulation of metal shavings that are in there? Come to think of it, if the filter is doing such a good job, why do I see all that crap on the magnetic drain plug (of other TLs, mine is usually just a fine residue of what looks like a graphite lubricant).
The stuff you see on the plug is from the clutchpacks.
#43
Honda Odyssey guys have older geeks who know their stuff
2001-2005 Odyssey vans have the same 5spd trannies and same amount of problems and failures. They're changing filters too check out the link.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showth...threadid=28594
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showth...threadid=28594
#44
I finally got around to changing the filter last week. Took me about 1 and a half hours to do it. I spent about 20 minutes trying to fish a wrench i dropped down the intake (I took the intake and battery out). Down shifts are noticeably smoother and feels like there is less of a lag between up shifts. Maybe it is all in my head but for $40 and a little of of your time is well worth the peace of mind.
#47
LFG RANGERS!!!!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (6)
Try Peoria Acura, they had it in stock & discount.
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/shoppi...&siteid=214055
Here is how mine looked inside:
https://www.oemacuraparts.com/shoppi...&siteid=214055
Here is how mine looked inside:
Last edited by e30cabrio; 03-13-2009 at 09:03 PM.
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webmastir (08-02-2012)
#49
the 99 4speed is less prone to failure than the 00+ 5 speed, supa
your good to go- enjoy it and dont put negative thought into the trans life
your good to go- enjoy it and dont put negative thought into the trans life
#51
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Yea, I was wondering the same thing. I had a transmission fluid exchange at the dealership, and am now wondering if they changed the external filter. Also, does anyone know if they do the 3x3 fluid drain/fill at the dealer? I remember someone saying a dealer actually machine flushed it.
#52
typically its not replaced with a fluid change--they drain and refill
most dealers will only do a 3 qt drain and refill on a gen2,,knowing our problems with the 3x3 on high mileage trans
Others will happily do a machine powered changeout,,customers finacials be damned!!
most dealers will only do a 3 qt drain and refill on a gen2,,knowing our problems with the 3x3 on high mileage trans
Others will happily do a machine powered changeout,,customers finacials be damned!!
#53
if its not listed on your invoice in the parts section--it didnt get one
#54
Atf
Have any of you guys tried Castrol High Mileage ATF? I've been using it with really good results. I figured the Honda ATF couldn't be all that great with so many transmission problems so I decided to give something else a try. My tranny was shuddering on upshifts and downshifts between 2-3. I had about 150k on my 03 TL when I did a 1x3 and the the problems pretty much disappeared within a week. I've done 2 more drain and fills since then and now shifts are buttery smooth. Every once in a blue moon I'll get a a little shudder between 2&3 but they are so infrequent that it's not a big deal. I'm sure the tranny would benefit from some new solenoids but that's a project for another time. I only recommend Castrol's High Mileage formula, I've tried the import ATF in the black bottle and shifts were smoother but the shuddering never went away completely. If I were to do it all over again I would probably do a couple drain and fills, drive a thousand miles then change the trans filter and do a couple more drain and fills.
#55
see threads by I Hate Cars, where he compares different fluids and results
he has been testing different fluids in gen3, as they have our problem,, and no warranty~
so far, Redline racing ATF has the right combo of things in it to reduce friction and wear-
per current testing by many ziners
cleaning the selenoids is supposed to do a great job with fluid change
Note on changing fluid types
the 3x3 method calls for 12 qts total, and 5 minute drives with shifting thru each gear a few times- that moves fluid out of chambers- the TC, and passages into the drain area
More time than that actually mixes the 2 fluids, not what we want!
See threads where fluid color change was observed but not color expected,,with just 3 qts~
total capacity is 7.3 us qts, with lots of it hidden in places as only 3 to 3.4 can be drained out at a time
he has been testing different fluids in gen3, as they have our problem,, and no warranty~
so far, Redline racing ATF has the right combo of things in it to reduce friction and wear-
per current testing by many ziners
cleaning the selenoids is supposed to do a great job with fluid change
Note on changing fluid types
the 3x3 method calls for 12 qts total, and 5 minute drives with shifting thru each gear a few times- that moves fluid out of chambers- the TC, and passages into the drain area
More time than that actually mixes the 2 fluids, not what we want!
See threads where fluid color change was observed but not color expected,,with just 3 qts~
total capacity is 7.3 us qts, with lots of it hidden in places as only 3 to 3.4 can be drained out at a time
#56
let us know how the castrol does over the next several months/thousands of miles
Many things are a temp band-aid and will come back to bite you
a 4 ounce sample of fluid sent to a lab like blackstone will tell you the condition of trans internal parts/wear and how the fluid is doing
Many things are a temp band-aid and will come back to bite you
a 4 ounce sample of fluid sent to a lab like blackstone will tell you the condition of trans internal parts/wear and how the fluid is doing
#57
I don't doubt that Redline makes a superior transmission fluid but you won't find it at your local auto parts store and it's $11 a quart plus shipping. Is it worth every penny? Maybe. But I've driven 15,000 miles since I first changed over to Castrol High Mileage ATF without any hiccups. If anything the transmission is shifting smoother then ever. I can only speak to my own experience but after having such good results I wouldn't spend twice the money.
#58
#59
Ok, judging from the pictures, it looks like the oil filter would come with a factory rebuilt transmission. So I would assume that they would put a new filter on a factory rebuilt transmission even if it does not specify it in the dealer's invoice. From what I can see, they just get the entire unit rebuilt from Honda, then they install it.
#60
thats correct kk
what I was referring to on- if not on the invoice: was replacment of the external filter with a standard fluid change of 3 qts drain and refill
no - they dont usually replace filter then --
special request for it would show up as the part being listed specifically
the complete rebuilt trans come from a series of rebuilders acura has contracts with across the country..for everything from alternators to trans- they have shops that do nothing but rebuild acura/honda parts and store them in warehouses for shipment
the trans do get new filter as part of the job. new clutches. new seals, new bearings etc,, and used parts like shafts or gears that pass several inspections and are fine to reuse
what I was referring to on- if not on the invoice: was replacment of the external filter with a standard fluid change of 3 qts drain and refill
no - they dont usually replace filter then --
special request for it would show up as the part being listed specifically
the complete rebuilt trans come from a series of rebuilders acura has contracts with across the country..for everything from alternators to trans- they have shops that do nothing but rebuild acura/honda parts and store them in warehouses for shipment
the trans do get new filter as part of the job. new clutches. new seals, new bearings etc,, and used parts like shafts or gears that pass several inspections and are fine to reuse
#61
thats correct kk
what I was referring to on- if not on the invoice: was replacment of the external filter with a standard fluid change of 3 qts drain and refill
no - they dont usually replace filter then --
special request for it would show up as the part being listed specifically
the complete rebuilt trans come from a series of rebuilders acura has contracts with across the country..for everything from alternators to trans- they have shops that do nothing but rebuild acura/honda parts and store them in warehouses for shipment
the trans do get new filter as part of the job. new clutches. new seals, new bearings etc,, and used parts like shafts or gears that pass several inspections and are fine to reuse
what I was referring to on- if not on the invoice: was replacment of the external filter with a standard fluid change of 3 qts drain and refill
no - they dont usually replace filter then --
special request for it would show up as the part being listed specifically
the complete rebuilt trans come from a series of rebuilders acura has contracts with across the country..for everything from alternators to trans- they have shops that do nothing but rebuild acura/honda parts and store them in warehouses for shipment
the trans do get new filter as part of the job. new clutches. new seals, new bearings etc,, and used parts like shafts or gears that pass several inspections and are fine to reuse
#64
my 99 had the trans replaced and there was no external filter on the replacement. There was about 3 extra quarts in the trans. Got it back and it would shift hard or 'bump' when tipping into the throttle in 4th while cruising. Seems that the tech my have filled it twice.
I checked the level and it was almost 1/2 inch over the top mark on the dipstick.
Drained to the proper level and it shifts fine.
Always check all work after any service is what I learned.
I checked the level and it was almost 1/2 inch over the top mark on the dipstick.
Drained to the proper level and it shifts fine.
Always check all work after any service is what I learned.
#65
just a reminder:
to ck the TL atf level you must drive 15 minutes at freeway cruise speed
get off the freeway and quickly park in safe level area
shut engine OFF,,trans in Park
remove atf dipstick- wipe clean- insert fully, remove and read
needs to be BETWEEN the 2 upper dots
not at either one,,between them --fluid level indicated changes with trans fluid temp!!
to ck the TL atf level you must drive 15 minutes at freeway cruise speed
get off the freeway and quickly park in safe level area
shut engine OFF,,trans in Park
remove atf dipstick- wipe clean- insert fully, remove and read
needs to be BETWEEN the 2 upper dots
not at either one,,between them --fluid level indicated changes with trans fluid temp!!
#66
Instructor
iTrader: (6)
just a reminder:
to ck the TL atf level you must drive 15 minutes at freeway cruise speed
get off the freeway and quickly park in safe level area
shut engine OFF,,trans in Park
remove atf dipstick- wipe clean- insert fully, remove and read
needs to be BETWEEN the 2 upper dots
not at either one,,between them --fluid level indicated changes with trans fluid temp!!
to ck the TL atf level you must drive 15 minutes at freeway cruise speed
get off the freeway and quickly park in safe level area
shut engine OFF,,trans in Park
remove atf dipstick- wipe clean- insert fully, remove and read
needs to be BETWEEN the 2 upper dots
not at either one,,between them --fluid level indicated changes with trans fluid temp!!
What is the easiest way to take some of the fluid out without making a huge mess?
Pat
#68
that was going to be my first suggestion~
#69
Got mine replaced on the weekend. It wasn't that hard. The key for this job is Tools. You need to have an offset wrench # 10, like a Z shape to remove the 5 bolts (4 on the filter side and 1 on the back holds the trans fluid tube), the 6th bolt you can use your regular socket tool. Total 6 bolts as shown on the pictures above thread.
#72
its up there pretty high--no reason to drain trans unless doing a 3 qt with filter- which would make sense
make sure to reset fluid level correctly-- with the 15 minute freeway drive to warm fluid to proper temp for reading by the dipstick
sidenote: you can change engine oil filter without draining oil too
make sure to reset fluid level correctly-- with the 15 minute freeway drive to warm fluid to proper temp for reading by the dipstick
sidenote: you can change engine oil filter without draining oil too
#74
The OP posted
"If you have an oil jet kit installed
remove the hold down bolt, pull out the oil jet and set aside"
I remove the 5th bolt in the 3rd pic of initial posting then remove the hold down bolt but I am unable to pull out the oil jet. It seems something else still holds it back.
Is it done by pulling upward with brute force?
As seen in my picture the battery, air filter housing and air intake tube have been put away otherwise there is not much room to operate.
"If you have an oil jet kit installed
remove the hold down bolt, pull out the oil jet and set aside"
I remove the 5th bolt in the 3rd pic of initial posting then remove the hold down bolt but I am unable to pull out the oil jet. It seems something else still holds it back.
Is it done by pulling upward with brute force?
As seen in my picture the battery, air filter housing and air intake tube have been put away otherwise there is not much room to operate.
#75
My car is now lying there without battery, air filter housing and air intake tube waiting for ATF filter replacement.
I can't get the oil jet kit out. When you pull it straight up after removing the hold down bolt, do you grasp (1) on the metal pipe which goes into the filler hole, (2) on the connection between metal pipe and rubber tube or (3) on the freed hold down bracket?
Do you have to use brute force?
Does the bracket come out with the pipe?
Thanks!
I can't get the oil jet kit out. When you pull it straight up after removing the hold down bolt, do you grasp (1) on the metal pipe which goes into the filler hole, (2) on the connection between metal pipe and rubber tube or (3) on the freed hold down bracket?
Do you have to use brute force?
Does the bracket come out with the pipe?
Thanks!
#76
according to other ziners it pulls straight out,,, without brute force~
#77
#78
I grasp with both hands on the bend of the metal pipe and on the bracket, use a lot of force but it won't budge grrrr.
picture taken underneath the hold down bracket shows a big bolt, does it need loosened?
picture taken underneath the hold down bracket shows a big bolt, does it need loosened?
Last edited by texholdem; 03-22-2011 at 11:58 AM.
#79
Senior Moderator
No, the big bolt doesnt need to be turned. The oil jet simply pulls straight up. It is ONLY held inplace with the one bolt. If yours wont budge, try twisting it one way or another, it may be slightly seized.
#80
After getting confirmed that there is nothing else holding the oil jet kit, I am not afraid of using brute force any more; but even by prying it from beneath with the biggest screw driver against the bracket and simultaneously pulling the pipe straight up, still it simply won't budge a bit, not one mm.
I gonna figure out if a puller can help.
I gonna figure out if a puller can help.