Transmission Filter
#1
Transmission Filter
Believe it or not 3.2Tls do have an external filter that very few people are aware of. There are a whole lot of threads about transmission maintenance (and failures) and I thought there should be a dedicated thread to this little known filter. I called a few Acura and Honda dealerships and 2/3 didn't even know the part existed until they looked it up on their computer and the other said that he has never seen the part changed. The part number is 25450-P7W-003 which is also shared by the 99-03 Honda Odyssey (Tranny also prone to failure). Why this filter isn't listed in any manual is beyond me but I believe that this little filter is contributing to our tranny woes. I found the part for $45 which I think is a little pricey but is inexpensive insurance in the long run. I'm getting the part sometime this week and I will try to post pictures when I do get around to changing it. I can't find the schematic of the tranny now but I know it's somewhere on the site so if you find it please post it. The filter looks like a fuel filter that is next to the filler bolt and should not be all that difficult to change. We may need to remove the air filter box to make some room but that is about it. Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
The following users liked this post:
webmastir (08-03-2012)
#3
Believe it or not 3.2Tls do have an external filter that very few people are aware of. There are a whole lot of threads about transmission maintenance (and failures) and I thought there should be a dedicated thread to this little known filter. I called a few Acura and Honda dealerships and 2/3 didn't even know the part existed until they looked it up on their computer and the other said that he has never seen the part changed. The part number is 25450-P7W-003 which is also shared by the 99-03 Honda Odyssey (Tranny also prone to failure). Why this filter isn't listed in any manual is beyond me but I believe that this little filter is contributing to our tranny woes. I found the part for $45 which I think is a little pricey but is inexpensive insurance in the long run. I'm getting the part sometime this week and I will try to post pictures when I do get around to changing it. I can't find the schematic of the tranny now but I know it's somewhere on the site so if you find it please post it. The filter looks like a fuel filter that is next to the filler bolt and should not be all that difficult to change. We may need to remove the air filter box to make some room but that is about it. Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
Make sure that while removing the steel fluid line not to damage the o-ring. I replaced mine when I replaced my filter. Be sure to coat it with trans fluid before installing the line.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for the pics and instructions. This is something everyone should know about. You wouldn't let your oil filter go 100k+ without being changed, why would you let this one? I just wish I had known about this little secret sooner.
You can find the filter here for $35 but with shipping and handling charges you might as well call your local Honda dealership with the part number, it should be about the same price. The acura dealer was more by about $5 here in CT. http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...1=&inputstate=
You can find the filter here for $35 but with shipping and handling charges you might as well call your local Honda dealership with the part number, it should be about the same price. The acura dealer was more by about $5 here in CT. http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...1=&inputstate=
#10
Not a noticable difference. I had no issues with my trans so it was more of a maintaince thing rather than a fix to a problem. Kind of like engine maintainance....you change your oil and your filter..... nothings wrong with your engine but you change your filter to keep the oil as clean as possible and to prevent problems in the future......
#11
Three Wheelin'
It's interesting that it's there, in my shop manual there is no reference to when it would need replacing.
I'm going to get mine replaced with my next service. 130k on the original filter is likely pushing it.
I'm going to get mine replaced with my next service. 130k on the original filter is likely pushing it.
#12
Senior Moderator
This filter is known about, I even posted about it in a thread the last couple days with a pic of where its at. I can tell you its not part of the cause of the trans failure problem. Its not a key element but it wont hurt to change.
#14
It's similar to what honda did with fuel filters for the last few years before they put them in the tank. Same filter, same location as always, but NO recommended replacement. I try to do them at 100k or so also.
#16
Senior Moderator
After looking it doesnt look like the 99s have one. Its probably the reason they last longer
#19
Senior Moderator
If i remember right the 99 has one built into the radiator. If so you could just use those lines.
#20
im try to find out which line, i see a line run across the top of the tranny i might try to pull out the line to see if there a if the red ATF in it tomorrow, but i still confuse about which way is the flow tho, i might try to hoop up a clear rubber line and start the car and turn it off right away and see. Think that a good idea?
#21
Senior Moderator
look for lines that connect to the radiator (other than coolant)
#22
hey Fsttyms1 thanks alot, i might not do it tho, like you say if im not racing or towing den i dont need it. you remind me of my dad!. What you put that things in your car for!!!!!!
#25
bringin lead
^^there have been threads on that question. going from memory on this, but i think the general consensus was that it's not a big help if any at all. someone correct me if i'm wrong...
#26
Senior Moderator
#27
#29
S E L L
Thanks for the pics and instructions. This is something everyone should know about. You wouldn't let your oil filter go 100k+ without being changed, why would you let this one? I just wish I had known about this little secret sooner.
You can find the filter here for $35 but with shipping and handling charges you might as well call your local Honda dealership with the part number, it should be about the same price. The acura dealer was more by about $5 here in CT. http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...1=&inputstate=
You can find the filter here for $35 but with shipping and handling charges you might as well call your local Honda dealership with the part number, it should be about the same price. The acura dealer was more by about $5 here in CT. http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...1=&inputstate=
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/discoun...0-P7W-003.html
#31
Trans Filter
Got mine replaced on the weekend. It wasn't that hard. The key for this job is Tools. You need to have an offset wrench # 10, like a Z shape to remove the 5 bolts (4 on the filter side and 1 on the back holds the trans fluid tube), the 6th bolt you can use your regular socket tool. Total 6 bolts as shown on the pictures above thread. The trans filter itself is either 1" or 15/16. You can use either adjustable wrench or open wrench. I have a 1" socket but it would not fit in the open space because it is 2" long socket, so I used my 15/16 open wrench. Once you remove the fluid line from the filter, use paper towel to plug it, then slowly remove the filter and stand it up so fluid will not drip on the other end. I made a mistake due to the thread answer above thinking to pay attention to the fluid in the filter, but that was not where the fluid leaked for me.
Here is where fluid leaked, once you removed the filter, put it aside and quickly put paper towel or a rag on the transmission side where the filter goes in, about 2 or 3 oz of fluid will come out. I was looking at the old filter and trying to cut it open, then when I looked over, fluid was on the floor. Anyway, it is very easy to do and I remove my battery for easy access. I think it is easier than working from the top down through the air intake.
Here is where fluid leaked, once you removed the filter, put it aside and quickly put paper towel or a rag on the transmission side where the filter goes in, about 2 or 3 oz of fluid will come out. I was looking at the old filter and trying to cut it open, then when I looked over, fluid was on the floor. Anyway, it is very easy to do and I remove my battery for easy access. I think it is easier than working from the top down through the air intake.
#32
Update On the New Trans Filter
Based on my own experience with my car, it is definitely an improvement. The shifting point from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 is a lot smoother. No hard jerking and yanking at the shifting point producing a metal to metal contact sound. I can still feel the jerking but a smooth one, the shifting contact sound seems to be obsorbs by flowing fluid; like a tennis racket with the vibration stopper. Normally it jerks very hard when the tranny is still cold in the morning, I had to ease on the gas when it shifts or drive it like a stick shift to avoid jerking. With the new filter, I can feel the fluid flow sufficiently. It downshifts and upshifts a lot quicker than before. I am sure any new filter is a good maintenance for the right price.
#34
doing this for sure sometime this week! thanks for bringing up the subject with a nice diy guys. im starting to notice some gear slippage. really hope that new atf fluid and filter solves the problem. beats paying 2500+ for a new tranny!
#35
When the transmission gets replaced on a 99 TL with a remanufactured unit, there is an external filter kit that gets installed. Im sure you can get this kit from the dealer.
#36
I have a few questions if you don't mind:
What's the part number for the o-ring? This is #23 in the diagram? I presume it is not included with the filter.
The filter is depicted as #9 in the diagram, what is that second piece? The photo looks like the filter has a threaded extension and screws into the body of the transmission. Any sealant needed on the threaded part? Was the original screwed in by Hercules? Tough to remove?
Why is it necessary to remove that single bolt behind the oil jet? What is that used for?
Thanks, I'm going out for that filter as soon as the weather turns a little warmer.
What's the part number for the o-ring? This is #23 in the diagram? I presume it is not included with the filter.
The filter is depicted as #9 in the diagram, what is that second piece? The photo looks like the filter has a threaded extension and screws into the body of the transmission. Any sealant needed on the threaded part? Was the original screwed in by Hercules? Tough to remove?
Why is it necessary to remove that single bolt behind the oil jet? What is that used for?
Thanks, I'm going out for that filter as soon as the weather turns a little warmer.
#37
I have a few questions if you don't mind:
What's the part number for the o-ring? This is #23 in the diagram? I presume it is not included with the filter.
The filter is depicted as #9 in the diagram, what is that second piece? The photo looks like the filter has a threaded extension and screws into the body of the transmission. Any sealant needed on the threaded part? Was the original screwed in by Hercules? Tough to remove?
Why is it necessary to remove that single bolt behind the oil jet? What is that used for?
Thanks, I'm going out for that filter as soon as the weather turns a little warmer.
What's the part number for the o-ring? This is #23 in the diagram? I presume it is not included with the filter.
The filter is depicted as #9 in the diagram, what is that second piece? The photo looks like the filter has a threaded extension and screws into the body of the transmission. Any sealant needed on the threaded part? Was the original screwed in by Hercules? Tough to remove?
Why is it necessary to remove that single bolt behind the oil jet? What is that used for?
Thanks, I'm going out for that filter as soon as the weather turns a little warmer.
- #9 is the filter, there is no second piece that you will need, that is the o-ring that comes with it.
- You don't need any sealant, it has an o-ring that comes with the filter on that end. lube it before installing. very easy to remove, the end-nut on that filter is 15/16, any adjustable wrench will do it.
- You need to remove that nut behind the oiljet because it holds the tranny fluid tube that is plugged into the filter. You have to remove that nut so that you can PULL out the tube off the filter. #23 o-ring is for that tube. it will be a little tight, just wiggle it a bit and it will come off. you can't wiggle it if that nut is not removed.
#39
#40
Thanks guys ! It looks easy enough. I'll probably just get the o-ring at the parts counter in case it's needed. If not this time, next time the filter gets done in a few years. I think I'll drain the transmission first just to reduce any spillage when I'm pulling lines off or disconnecting the filter. A few more questions:
Should I remove the airbox or the battery for easiest access?
About how much extra ATF will I need to add to my usual 3 quart refill?
Anyone cut the old filter in half to see the accumulation of metal shavings that are in there? Come to think of it, if the filter is doing such a good job, why do I see all that crap on the magnetic drain plug (of other TLs, mine is usually just a fine residue of what looks like a graphite lubricant).
Should I remove the airbox or the battery for easiest access?
About how much extra ATF will I need to add to my usual 3 quart refill?
Anyone cut the old filter in half to see the accumulation of metal shavings that are in there? Come to think of it, if the filter is doing such a good job, why do I see all that crap on the magnetic drain plug (of other TLs, mine is usually just a fine residue of what looks like a graphite lubricant).