Tranny fluid change
#1
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Tranny fluid change
I wanna change my tranny fluid today,,
hust wondering how many quarts of fluid I'm
going to need,,,4 or 5..
I'm only doing a drain & fill.
thanks in advance, too lazy to look for & read tl manual
03 type s
hust wondering how many quarts of fluid I'm
going to need,,,4 or 5..
I'm only doing a drain & fill.
thanks in advance, too lazy to look for & read tl manual
03 type s
#3
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Originally Posted by fla-tls
Well we're to lazy to give you the answer. Do a search.
flushing the tranny and quality of mobil 1 fluid.
I'll be using Honda's tranny fluid, and will drain and
fill twice to get rid of that brown fluid..
every time I that i've done it in the past,,
i was never sure if i had put enough fluid..
I don't wanna mess around w/my TL..
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It's less than 3 quarts per fill (like 2.7ish). And yes - you should use Honda fluid.
Remember to check the level when the engine is off - and the engine/tranny are at operating temps.
Remember to check the level when the engine is off - and the engine/tranny are at operating temps.
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Originally Posted by fla-tls
It's less than 3 quarts per fill (like 2.7ish). And yes - you should use Honda fluid.
Remember to check the level when the engine is off - and the engine/tranny are at operating temps.
Remember to check the level when the engine is off - and the engine/tranny are at operating temps.
That's strange, I was always told to check the level
while the engine was running.. thanks man.
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Yeah - this is the first car I've ever owned where you check it with the engine off. If you check it with the engine on it will read WAY over the full mark.
#7
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the most that will drain out is 3 to 3.2 qts. i got 3.1 out of mine just like the manual states.
as for checking it fla-tls is correct. you check it with the car off. this is also my first car you check it off, but you want to do it with the fluid warm. take it for a drive around the block.
on a side note you could measure the amount taken out sso you know exactly how much to put in but its not necessary. 3 will come out 3 will go in
as for checking it fla-tls is correct. you check it with the car off. this is also my first car you check it off, but you want to do it with the fluid warm. take it for a drive around the block.
on a side note you could measure the amount taken out sso you know exactly how much to put in but its not necessary. 3 will come out 3 will go in
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#8
Burning Brakes
is changing tranny fluid a DIY? i always thought i hve to go to the dealer to do it and i keep procrastinating b/c of the price... so can i do this myself???
#10
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Originally Posted by SFOX
Where is the filler for the tranny fluid? since my tranny has been mod'ed with oil injector. Thanks!
and yes changing the fluid is a very easy DIY. pull the plug let it drain, fill er back up
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#12
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two locations to fill?
So there's a tranny dipstick tube and also a filler bolt. Which one am I supposed to use to fill tranny fluid with ? I thought most cars fill through the tranny dipstick but our TL's have another fill bolt? Pics of the filler bolt and dipstick tube are shown below.
Filler bolt (it should be this one I think)
Dipstick tube
By the way, is there a tranny filter that needs to be replaced along with a gasket for the tranny pan? Or just remove the drain plug and that's it?
Filler bolt (it should be this one I think)
Dipstick tube
By the way, is there a tranny filter that needs to be replaced along with a gasket for the tranny pan? Or just remove the drain plug and that's it?
#13
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Use the filler bolt. However, a lot of time, the dealer got that bolt on pretty dang tight. I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar w/ extension to get the bolt out.
You can fill it through the dipstick but it's quite small so you will have to find a hose or tube that will fit it. Also, it takes a long time to fill up 3 qts.
You can fill it through the dipstick but it's quite small so you will have to find a hose or tube that will fit it. Also, it takes a long time to fill up 3 qts.
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Anyone know the torque (lbs. ft.) of that filler bolt? I don't have a breaker bar so I would need to try to take it off with just a ratchet and extension. Hopefully I have a 6pt. socket or else a 12pt. might round off the bolt.
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The filler bolt supposed to have only 33 lb-ft but it felt more like 50+. First time, I tried to get it off w/ a 3/8 - 16" ratchet and it wouldn't even budge. I got the bolt out after picking up a 1/2"-24" ratchet.
The dealer said that they put it on w/ an impact wrench, "It has to be secured!!" This way you are forced to bring it in for ATF service.
The dealer said that they put it on w/ an impact wrench, "It has to be secured!!" This way you are forced to bring it in for ATF service.
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$6.55/qt x12 = $79
Originally Posted by tweedle99
First time, it cost me $70!!! For just a drain and refill!!! ATF fluid is $4/qt x3 = $12. Plus an hour of labor for the drain/refill. NOT!!!!
Now I'm thinking of trying to see how tight the filler bolt is held on. If I feel like I'm going to f*** it up , then I'll fill through the dipstick (bought a narrow funnel tube, hope it fits) instead of removing the filler bolt. Just wanted to make sure filling through the dipstick won't cause any problems. Does anyone know if the filler and/or drain bolt have a washer that needs to be replaced like the oil drain plug? Thanks.
#18
The drain bolt uses an aluminum crush washer like the oil drain plug (it's just a little bigger though, 18mm vs. 14mm, I think). There is no filter in these trannies to replace, fluid change is the only user service you can do on these trannies.
You can certainly add fluid back through the dipstick hole, that's how I do it, it's just a little slower but the same effect is achieved.
Do the d&f a couple of times and you'll have diluted the old fluid so much with new that it's practically like doing a fluid flush. I buy the Honda ATF-Z1 by the case and do the d&f every oil change (2x/yr.); not a problem yet!
Don't worry, you can't mess it up. As long as you put the same amount of fluid that came out and the drain plug doesn't leak, you're all set.
You can certainly add fluid back through the dipstick hole, that's how I do it, it's just a little slower but the same effect is achieved.
Do the d&f a couple of times and you'll have diluted the old fluid so much with new that it's practically like doing a fluid flush. I buy the Honda ATF-Z1 by the case and do the d&f every oil change (2x/yr.); not a problem yet!
Don't worry, you can't mess it up. As long as you put the same amount of fluid that came out and the drain plug doesn't leak, you're all set.
#21
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its a little easier to remove teh bolt when the tranny is warm (drive it before you change the fluid, fluid comes out better too)
as for the honda fluid, i go to my local honda dealer. the fluid is cheaper there
as for the honda fluid, i go to my local honda dealer. the fluid is cheaper there
#23
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Originally Posted by Flounder
I know what you guys mean by how tough that bolt is tightened. I broke a rachet the first time i have to loosen that thing.
#24
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Originally Posted by Flounder
I know what you guys mean by how tough that bolt is tightened. I broke a rachet the first time i have to loosen that thing.
Yeah I barely managed to loosen the bolt when I did the ATF drain & fill... good thing i didnt break anything.
Flounder: i suggest invest in a breaker bar (or some metal tube that fits the handle of the rachet)
#27
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Originally Posted by Oskar
I can't see the picture of the drain plug above...Does anybody have it? Also, what is best method when refilling if u are using the dipstick hole?
thanks.
thanks.
and good luck getting the bolt to losen on the first time
#29
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Originally Posted by Oskar
Subtle thanks for this great picture...But I need the pic for the drain plug...
here ya go:
and be sure to clean the metal shavings that are stuck to the drain plug (its magnetized) check out mine... lots of tranny wear and tear!
#31
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Originally Posted by Oskar
these are great pictures. I see you didn't need to jack the car up...Am I seeing right?
The jack stand was on the driver's side only so you cant see it in the pic. its too low to do the drain without lifting the car at all. and now that i got the bodykit + springs i REALLY have to lift the car to work on anything underneath.
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Originally Posted by subtledreamer
sure thing, glad i can help out.
here ya go:
and be sure to clean the metal shavings that are stuck to the drain plug (its magnetized) check out mine... lots of tranny wear and tear!
here ya go:
and be sure to clean the metal shavings that are stuck to the drain plug (its magnetized) check out mine... lots of tranny wear and tear!
If you reassembled those shavings really really carefully, do you think they'd all go back on the 3rd gear clutch pack and extend the life of your tranny????
#33
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Originally Posted by PeteTLS
If you reassembled those shavings really really carefully, do you think they'd all go back on the 3rd gear clutch pack and extend the life of your tranny????
#34
If you had the oil jet installed on your transmission, that oil filler bolt has been replaced with something you want to leave alone. See the sensor just to the right? It's a little closer to the driver side fender and is covered by the red circle on subtledreamer's photo. That sensor is held down in the transmission case by a ring which is anchored by a 10mm bolt. Get a 1/4" drive socket set with a long extension and remove the 10mm bolt. Make sure any dirt is wiped clean before you lift the sensor out. Refill here. I can't believe anyone would have the patience (or could find a funnel) that would fit down that dipstick tube.
Why would I leave the oil jet alone? My tranny is still working fine, but if it takes a dump in the next year and a half, the last thing I need is an argument about how it's my fault because the oil jet was redirected. I know that's an unrelated issue, but why get into it?
Why would I leave the oil jet alone? My tranny is still working fine, but if it takes a dump in the next year and a half, the last thing I need is an argument about how it's my fault because the oil jet was redirected. I know that's an unrelated issue, but why get into it?
#35
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Originally Posted by green t el
If you had the oil jet installed on your transmission, that oil filler bolt has been replaced with something you want to leave alone. See the sensor just to the right? It's a little closer to the driver side fender and is covered by the red circle on subtledreamer's photo. That sensor is held down in the transmission case by a ring which is anchored by a 10mm bolt. Get a 1/4" drive socket set with a long extension and remove the 10mm bolt. Make sure any dirt is wiped clean before you lift the sensor out. Refill here. I can't believe anyone would have the patience (or could find a funnel) that would fit down that dipstick tube.
Why would I leave the oil jet alone? My tranny is still working fine, but if it takes a dump in the next year and a half, the last thing I need is an argument about how it's my fault because the oil jet was redirected. I know that's an unrelated issue, but why get into it?
Why would I leave the oil jet alone? My tranny is still working fine, but if it takes a dump in the next year and a half, the last thing I need is an argument about how it's my fault because the oil jet was redirected. I know that's an unrelated issue, but why get into it?
#37
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Thanks everybody for all the information and encouragement...! I was able to do the drain-fill-drive twice without even jacking up the car. It was actually easier than the oil change. Got a breaker bar and an extension, good to go after that.
The fluid was brownish-red. So, I am quite pleased that I did this.
I think it took me about 1 hour to complete the whole job. Now I believe I have 67% new fluid. I will get another 6 quarts to reach about 90% new fluid.
The fluid was brownish-red. So, I am quite pleased that I did this.
I think it took me about 1 hour to complete the whole job. Now I believe I have 67% new fluid. I will get another 6 quarts to reach about 90% new fluid.
#38
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Originally Posted by Flounder
Chris, do you have a pic of the oil jet when it's installed?
ill try to get a pic later when i get home
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1- Since the filer bolt is so hard to get off the first time, will an impact wrench fit in there to remove the bolt? I would not use it to put it back on, but is it ok to use it for removal?
2- Since my car has the oil jet installed, from the picture above it looks like there is a smaller (blueish in the pic above) bolt to remove. It looks like the jet part itself just sits inside where the old bolt used to be and just pulls out.
Sorry, i know that sounds kinda wierd, and maybe a stupid question but i have never done this and dont want to screw it up.
2- Since my car has the oil jet installed, from the picture above it looks like there is a smaller (blueish in the pic above) bolt to remove. It looks like the jet part itself just sits inside where the old bolt used to be and just pulls out.
Sorry, i know that sounds kinda wierd, and maybe a stupid question but i have never done this and dont want to screw it up.
#40
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if you dont have the oil jet a impact wrench would work with use of a large extension.
if you have teh oil jet just remove teh small 10mm bolt (blue in the pic) and pull it straight up. and then get a long funnel and stick er in the hole and fill er up
if you have teh oil jet just remove teh small 10mm bolt (blue in the pic) and pull it straight up. and then get a long funnel and stick er in the hole and fill er up