aaronnn

How many quarts of tranny oil do i need to get if i want to drain it out and change the oil for our gen TL's?

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

owner's manual, under fluid capacity.

off the top of my head, it's just over 8 quarts, like 8.2, i think.

aaronnn

oh ok, thanks!
i'll double check before i order the fluid
(really wish we could still give out rep points.)

TeknoKing

u should really do a flush when chaning your tranny oil. it costs about 100 bux, but that special machine that does it, is awesome.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Just make sure to load the machine with Honda ATF. The solvents they use is not good for our transmission, and Acura officially and strongly recommends against it.

TeknoKing

of course, nothing but Honda products.

MikePA

When you drain the oil, you only get 3.1 qts out. Plus, Acura recommends NOT using one of the AT flush machines, only a simple drain and refill.

wowzer

Hmmm...the local quick oil change guys suggested that I ought to have my tranny flushed. He also said that the tranny fluid is running low. First, how can I tell that it's running low? I saw the dipstick that he pulled, but I have no idea on what is considered full/empty. Can anyone help?

Secondly, if it's not good to flush the tranny, how do I replace the fluid? Can I simply just pour the ATF fluid into the dipstick hole? Should I attempt to do this myself? I'm fairly handy, but I've never learned anything about automobiles...but am willing to learn.

As for the price, the store charges $90 for the tranny flush...it didn't look like they were going to use Honda fluid, so I told him not to do it.

MikePA

You check the tranny when it's been warmed up by driving and the engine off. The fluid level should be between the 2 marks on the dipstick. BTW, local oil change guys will always recommend more service.

You drain the fluid by removing the drain plug and while you can refill via the dipstick hole, it's faster to remove the plug on the top of the transmission. (There are pictures on this board.)

It's not a hard job. Just get 9 qts of Honda ATF and a drain pan. Drain 3 qts out, add 3 qts. Drive a mile or two to mix the new and old fluid. Drain, refill. Repeat.

Mr Hyde

The tranny as a whole holds over 8qts, but if you are doing a simple drain and refill in your driveway, you wont get out more than 3 qts at a time; not all 8.

brakejob

do not flush the transmission...

here:
I'll make an actual DIY when I get home then, since i didn't find a very good one on here... but for now:

again: PICS coming soon to make everything easier

Definition for this DIY... Hand Tight = as tight as you can get it with a regular socket wrench without going overboard on the strength. ( unless you're a broly, then use your brain you meathead)

Tools Needed: (*=required, $=Suggested)

* 3/8" socket wrench
* 12mm Socket *OR* a 17mm Socket... 12mm if you have the oil jet kit, 17mm if you don't
* a jack and jack stands, or a ramp, or some way of accessing the underside of the car
* A funnel with a long spout
$ Hammer or a Breaker bar, because bolts can be on tight as fuck from acura
$ a bunch of extensions giving you about 12" of extension... it makes accesing the oil fill area MUCH easier....
* some sort of drain pan of course

Supplies needed:
* 3 or 4 quarts of ATF-Z1 per drain/fill... its about 3.1 qts from acura so I usually have an extra qt on hand for the extra .1...
$ Transmission bolt crush washer... similar to oil crush washer... some dont replace it, I do... YMMV

Instructions:
#1 drive the car 10-15 mins to warm everything up. get on it a few times and make the tranny work hard, go in SS and work through all the gears... just get everything hot and ready. This is very important, or else you WILL NOT get all of the fluid out of the tranny... a "slightly warmed" tranny will usually only yield 2.5 quarts of fluid.

#2 get some beer handy.

#3 get the car in the air (jack, ramp, whatever... try to stay as close to level of course)

#4 Look under the car. on the drivers side (right side of car if you're looking head on of course) of the engine you'll see a bolt with a 3/8" square in the middle, similar to a big ass allen bolt. Guess what goes in this square. well, besides your penis, insert your 3/8" socket wrench in there. If you can muscle it off like this, have another beer broly. Otherwise use your breaker bar or tap it with a hammer to loosen the bolt.

#5 remove the bolt, burning your fingers in the process (a required step), and drain the tranny fluid. smells good doesn't it.

#6 look at your fingers. they should be burned

#7 get a rag and wipe down the tranny bolt. That big black thing is a magnet, and will probably have a ton of metal filings on it. this is normal, just wipe it off... also make sure you're continuning to burn your fingers on this bolt, because it is usually FREAKING HOT. Replace the crush washer with the new one (if you bought one) and set the bolt aside for now.

#8 while the tranny drains/drips, we're going to open the filler. If you have the Oil Jet kit installed, go to 8a. If you're not in the oil jet crowd, go to 8b

#8a. Leaning over the driver's side fender, look directly under the air intake hose, or where the air intake hose would be if you still had one (cai,sri folks). Slightly to the right on top of the tranny you'll see a black metal tube connected to a small black hose, which goes right into the transmission. there is a bracket connected to this tube, anchored by a 12mm bolt. Use your socket wrench and socket to remove this. (If you dont have enough extensions, good luck getting it off. If you do have the extensions, its a breeze. Just extend the socket down through all the cables and tubes, and tap/breaker bar that wrench until the bolt comes loose. )
After you remove this 12mm bolt, pull up on the metal tube. it will probably be tight, but it will come off. remove the tube from the hole and let it rest to the side...

#8b Leaning over the driver's side fender, look directly under the air intake hose, or where the air intake hose would be if you still had one (cai,sri folks). Slightly to the right on top of the tranny you'll see a 17mm bolt (probably with some blue on it) in the top of the tranny. Use your socket wrench and socket to remove this. (If you dont have enough extensions, good luck getting it off. If you do have the extensions, its a breeze. Just extend the socket down through all the cables and tubes, and tap/breaker bar that wrench until the bolt comes loose. )
After you remove this 17mm bolt clean it off and set it aside. laugh because it's easier than the poor fucks who have the oil jet kit. go ahead, laugh.

#9 when the tranny stops dripping take that clean tranny bolt and reinstall it. Torque it to hand tight, dont go crazy. then wipe up your mess you damm slob.

#10 get that long spout funnel and insert it in the fill hole you just made in step 8. pour in 3 or 3.1 quarts of fluid. then wipe up your mess because you spilled ATF everywhere, you really need to learn how to pour fluids!

#11 replace whatever you removed in step 8.
NON OIL JET--> torque that 17mm to hand tight
OIL JET--> put the oil jet back in the hole, pressing down hard to ensure a proper fit, and replace the 12mm bolt. once the 12mm bolt begins to tighten down stop and press down on the metal tube. sometimes nothing happens (which is fine), sometimes it makes a small click as it seats under the pressure of the bracket (which means its now seated properly because you did not press hard enough the first time). tighten the 12mm bolt to hand tight.

#12 lower the car down and check the tranny level to make sure the fluids are at least in the tranny. The level is not accurate yet, just make sure theres something in there!

#13 check for leaks, and finish your beer. then take a leak.

#14 drive the car 10-15 mins, heating it up like in step 1. then, with the car off of course, check the fluid level. should be within spec

#15 pat yourself on the back or repeat, depending on how many changes you want to do in this sitting.

#16 seek medical attention for your burned fingers.

brakejob

you really should drive about 10-20 mins between changes, to thoroughly cycle and heat the fluid

MikePA

Great DIY instructions!

khoifl

brakejobhelp, Nice DIY. I haven't changed my trans fuild yet. With your DIY, I'll change it when I have day off. By the way, you have a good sense of humor.
Anyway, does anyone know if we have or need to change trans filter? Pics would be nice and instruction would be awsome . Thank you.

aaronnn

wow.. you guys are awesome with great explanations and info. thanks! im gonna be doing this during the weekend.

suj220

i dont think we have to change the filter on our transmissions...its part of the internal assembly and is not meant to be changed by itself. well thats what the stealership told me.

musubi TL-S

thanks for all the step by step stuff...especially the little details like "you're continuning to burn your fingers on this bolt, because it is usually FREAKING HOT" - - -that's the kinda stuff i like to know ahead of time...

looking foward to the pics....

suj220

you cant find those minor details in the manual ...lol!

brakejob

same as a coolant change, the manual never says the coolant is going to splash off the pan and onto your face/the ground


but it happens

Bxscig

Would you happen to have those pictures yet??? TIA

brakejob

nah, i had a long ass work day yesterday, sorry

Bxscig

I know what you mean, four straight days of 13 hour days for me... have tomorrow off so I was planning on attempting this tonight or tomorrow.

fsttyms1

piece of cake to do. just get a long extension for the tranny filler bolt, and a long funnel to fill the tranny. 10 min tops for each drain and fill (for those who have never done it before 15 min)

Bxscig

Hope I can find that bolt.... knowing me it'll take me 30 minutes. Your 14 min brake job, turned into a 60 minute brake job for me

fsttyms1

hahaha. if you want ill take a picture of where the drain bolt is

Bxscig

Thanks but I think I found it before when I took a break to take a look.... bolt attached to a black metal bar to a black tube... We'll see how it goes tonight

fsttyms1

are you talking to remove the oil jet? if so its the blue bolt on the piece that says oil jet in the pic on the right

TeknoKing

brakejobs, i've noticed in your every DIY your number one step is beer u must be hella drunk everytime u work on your car lol

good diy though, props!

Kris, hmm, are any TLs in your area missing engines? lol

khoifl

I had the same set up with a bolt attached to a black metal bar to a black tube. I wonder what is the black metal bar for?

Anyway, I drain and fill my trans fuild today and..it took me 4 hours until dark and still not finish yet. I guess each time fsttyms1 say time, I have to multiply it by 4 j/k.

Anyhow, here is the boring story. After the first drain, everything was fine, actually took me 20 mins and 20 mins for driving. For the second drain, I lost the washer under the black metal bar. Spent 30 mins to find. No luck. Put back the tranny filler bolt. Start the car, hear the fuild dranning under the car Turn engine off immediately. Lucky only lost 1/2 quart but I bought extra fuild so no problem. I tried to find the washer again for 30 more mins and I found it. My problem did not go away yet. As I tightened the tranny filler bolt, I could not turn it at all or it did not go into the place. Spent another 30 mins keep tighting the bolt. No hope. Not to mention mosquitoes bit both of my feet because I live in FL. Took the bolt up and I found out that the last 2 teeth of the bolt were worn out no wonder I could not tighten it. I will try to buy a new filler bolt from Acura dealer tomorrow and see. I hope the teeth on the top of tranny did not wear out.

Lesson to learn, a little late but still. Save your washers at all costs and don't spend a lot of time to screw bolts/nuts.

Bxscig

I just did 1 drain so far 20 mins ago, and I dont recall a washer under the black bar. I hope I didnt loose it since I dropped the bolt and spent 5 mins trying to get it back out w/o touching all the HOT parts.

Bxscig

1 more question, i finally did all 3 drains and 4th fill... now when I try to tighten the bolt for the oil jet, it never gets tight and it just gets a slightly tight and then loose again. I looked at the bolt and it looks fine to me.

It holds in and it doesnt seem like I can wiggle the oiljet loose but it is definitely not hand tightened.

khoifl

Try to look at the bolt carefully at the end to see if anything is worn out. I got the same problem w/ the tranny filler bolt. I hope everything is okie w/ your bolt.

I called Acura and even Honda dealer around my area and no one has the tranny filler bolt in stock . I have to order them, and hopefully it will come on Tues. So from now till then, I have to borrow my dad's car to go somewhere if he is not using the car.

Bxscig

After driving with it and checking it every so often about 100 miles I dont see any leaks at all. Unless it all got burned up on the hot surrounding.

I took the bolt out and it looks a little bent, super slightly. Just not 100% straight or it is just my eyes playing tricks on me. I guess I should order another bolt to try just to make sure. Did you have the oil jet installed? Bout how much was it?

khoifl

How can use tell if the car has the oil jet? lol. Seriously I don't know because I bought the car used, but I don't think so cause I has the 17mm filler bolt. The price is depending on the dealer. I called many Acura and Honda dealers to see if they have in stock (same part #). The most expensive place is $12 and the cheapest one is $4. So I had a special order at $4 place.

wowzer

Glad I haven't tried to replace the transmission fluid...given the trouble with the bolt. How much does an Acura dealer charge for this service?

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Look at the picture above. The one on the right has the oil jet kit, held in place by the black plate. The one on the left does not. It's obvious.

Bxscig

Its only after like the 4th time I removed it that it happened. I am not sure what went wrong that time though.

fsttyms1

if you have the oil jet kit and its the small bolt that doesnt seem to tighten the threads on the littel bracket may have gotten stripped. it doesnt need to be that tight to hold the bracket in place. there isnt a washer under it either

Bxscig

Nope no washer. So I guess getting a new bolt wont help then, maybe I'll just throw a few crush washers to help hold it down. NO problems for about 300 miles afterwards and I hope it stays that way.

fsttyms1

are you talking the filler bolt or the oiljet bracket bolt?