they are quicker, like i said earlier.. i know my h22 accord would eat a TLS up with none of the bolt ons installed.. but the motor has to be taken care of. Remember.. these motors are 12-15 years old... and the driver cant light the wheels up on the start or it will be a very close race.. the TL-S is no slug

i have 18's on my accord and if i punch it the wheels will burn for 20 feet

and yes, i work in baton rouge, when your allowed to PM send me a message.. we have been trying for a while to get enough people together for a meet and photoshoot here...

 

I beat a h22 DA.. very close race though!!

But yeah, whoever buys a TL to race is pretty stupid, imo.

 

^COME AGAIN, missed that last part

 

lol.. or has a lot of cash to do lots of weight removal and big mods..

 

And why is that? I auto x mine and run it on lapping days and it holds its own against more powerful smaller cars. People that make comments like this are, well imho stupid

 

 

If you beat a H22 DA then something is wrong with that car.

And to those who think a TL is a good race car I'd like to hear some reasons why.

 

one reason, unsuspecting.

 

^ so

 

not so much when you have a cf hood

 

o man, a cf hood. im trying to keep the stickers off, i lose some hp but stay under cover

 

well, since TLs have gotten so cheap now, i would buy one, gut the whole interior completely, do some major mods and race it. why not ?


i guess we scared the OP away - lol



speedemon90 - shift at 6700 - 6800 if u can. hit the + at 6500 for a prefect shift cus of the delay in the shifting.

the TL-p makes 225 hp at 5600 rpm stock. why you rev higher than that is to make up the power in the next shift.

 

Okay, Thanks for clearing that up!

 

agree with gold2003tl (90). when i was "racing" in my tl-s i would up shift at 6500-6600rpm and it would shift at 6700-6800rpm. the dynos that i have done with my tl, all peek out at about 6800rpm then start to fall from their

 

Because they actually handle really well. Have you ever tried?

 

Header install takes about 2 hours, intake about 1 hour...neither are too diffcult DIY contains instructions - JUST DO IT !!!!

 

H22A1 2.2L USDM DOHC VTEC 92-96 Prelude VTEC 190hp

H22A4 2.2L DOHC VTEC 97-01 Prelude VTEC/SH 97-98: 195hp 99-01: 200hp

H22A 2.2L JDM DOHC VTEC 92+ Prelude Type-S, 97+ Prelude SiR S Spec 220ps

H23A1 2.3L USDM DOHC non-VTEC Prelude Si 160hp

i went through 3 motors in my lude. and had enough mods to whip my buds 03 6v accord 6spd anytime i wanted. i wasnt just throwing out numbers earlier.

 

Bobttom lise is. Install the bolt ons and get a tune. Then run ur friend. If u don't know where to stat, get a pulley, headers, intake. Best bangs for the buck. If u want to make sure u win and add a little kick to the fun, get a nitrous kit and spray 50-75 shot. Dry is cheaper and easier to install. If its done right all will be good.
Haven't had a problem with it on my tl-s and its in my cl-s now and spraying a bigger shot

 

lol do like my friend dirty john, take off the backseats and SPRAYYYYYYYY ! oh yeahhhh

 

ok everyone always says take out the back seats.
how much weight is lost by removing the 2 big pieces of foam and leather??
isnt every 100lbs .01 at the track?
is that worth it?
these are 4door semi-luxury people movers...

 

not even 100lbs. bottom weights around 10-15lbs and back weights about 25-30lbs

* fixed *

 

CHILL!!! lol.. I personally, like my "luxury" car just for the comfort.. I think it handles well, and is pretty quick.. BUT, when I think of a "race car" I would expect it to be gutted for weight reduction, and should have a lot more aftermarket support... Our cars are little on the heavy side.. like I said I would never buy a TL just for racing...and parts are expensive..

 

Oh, and btw, I take my TL racing every friday.. But I didn't buy it JUST for that..

 

You have those numbers reversed.

 

my bad. wtf was i thinking. thax for clearing it up kris

 

You were thinking Boost!