Tie Rod selection, OEM or Acdelco
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Tie Rod selection, OEM or Acdelco
Hi everyone. Thank you for viewing this. My car is a 2003 acura TL type S. I need to replace the outer tie rod end after a accident. The OEM one is about $55 each side. For aftermarket, Acdelco is the most expensive one ($27) I can find on rockauto(they seems to hold a good reputation on charging based on the price). Any thoughts on which one is better quality? Because I see some ideas says the OEM ones are just MOOG product with different label. But I check the MOOG one one rockauto. It is cheaper and not in the same shape as original one. So I am confused.
Another question is that when I was checking the tie rod ends, I can not find the cotter pins on it. You can check the the pics. Anyone see this before? Or the previous owner had the car repaired by some idiot? Any thought is appreciated.
Passenger side
Passenger side, from tip
Driver side
Driver side
Another question is that when I was checking the tie rod ends, I can not find the cotter pins on it. You can check the the pics. Anyone see this before? Or the previous owner had the car repaired by some idiot? Any thought is appreciated.
Passenger side
Passenger side, from tip
Driver side
Driver side
#2
Well, I have bought parts from RA for about 10 years and when I buy the daily driver stuff I have never, ever, been disappointed. If you can afford OEM, do it. It's going to be top notch stuff.
If money is an issue, then go RA.
If money is an issue, then go RA.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thank you. To be specific, I bounced on my left front wheel and somehow enlonged the tie rod ends. By adjusting the tie rod ends, my mechanics can make the car mostly aligned but slightly pull to left. He said the tie rod end need to be replaced if I wanna have it all correct. So if I buy an OEM one, my chance is I just need to replace the left side. But If I go with after market, I probably need to do both and the total price will be the same. Any suggestion on this situation? Is it possible that I can only replace one side with OEM parts?
#4
Racer
You don't need to replace both sides with either aftermarket or OEM if only one side is damaged. If you do one side, it doesn't really matter that the other side is OEM. However, not knowing how many miles are on the other tie rod end and the fact that you will be paying for an alignment whether you do only one side only or both, for peace of mind and a little extra added cost now, I would replace both sides and get the car aligned once.
I replaced my OEM tie rod ends with Moog Problem Solver ones about 25K miles ago and haven't had any issues.
I replaced my OEM tie rod ends with Moog Problem Solver ones about 25K miles ago and haven't had any issues.
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
You don't need to replace both sides with either aftermarket or OEM if only one side is damaged. If you do one side, it doesn't really matter that the other side is OEM. However, not knowing how many miles are on the other tie rod end and the fact that you will be paying for an alignment whether you do only one side only or both, for peace of mind and a little extra added cost now, I would replace both sides and get the car aligned once.
I replaced my OEM tie rod ends with Moog Problem Solver ones about 25K miles ago and haven't had any issues.
I replaced my OEM tie rod ends with Moog Problem Solver ones about 25K miles ago and haven't had any issues.
#6
Racer
If the threaded portion of the tie rod end where it goes into the knuckle has a small hole through the center, you use a cotter pin. Otherwise, there is no way to install one and you are fine just the way it is.
The following users liked this post:
blackhorse21 (04-18-2017)
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update:
I go with the ACDelco 45A0635/45A0635. It actually made in Japan and has the 555 mark and small details as the sankei product. I feel it just be rebranded by ACDelco. But it is way cheaper than the so called directly imported one. Aligned toe in by the traditional wire method and worked out pretty well with no pull to any side. The old left one is confirmed to be elongated by the accident previously.
Still have the clunk noise when turn the steering wheel during parking or in low speed. Need more help on that. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p.../#post16001258
Right side. Exactly the same, the picture some how show some difference
Left side, the old(black) one is longer than normal.
The connection to inner part.
The cotter pin
I go with the ACDelco 45A0635/45A0635. It actually made in Japan and has the 555 mark and small details as the sankei product. I feel it just be rebranded by ACDelco. But it is way cheaper than the so called directly imported one. Aligned toe in by the traditional wire method and worked out pretty well with no pull to any side. The old left one is confirmed to be elongated by the accident previously.
Still have the clunk noise when turn the steering wheel during parking or in low speed. Need more help on that. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p.../#post16001258
Right side. Exactly the same, the picture some how show some difference
Left side, the old(black) one is longer than normal.
The connection to inner part.
The cotter pin
Last edited by blackhorse21; 04-18-2017 at 09:30 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
If its only clunking while turning the steering wheel it has to be bushings in the control arm, steering rack bushings or depending on what was replaced in the accident, ball joints. Could even be a number of these.
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thank you for the input. I have tried to record the noise while my wife driving and turning the steering wheel slowly. The rack make no noise at all. I think it only happens when I turn the steering wheel too quick.