For those with UR pulleys....

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Old 07-23-2004, 11:51 AM
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For those with UR pulleys....

Can you guys with pulleys give me an idea of how hard the UR pulley mod is and how long it takes?
Old 07-23-2004, 12:02 PM
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shouldnt take more than an hour to install and it's really not that hard.. just remove the belts and take off the pulley.. put the UR pulley on along with new belts. that's it.



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Old 07-23-2004, 12:49 PM
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You will need an impact to get the crank pulley off, or the special tool designed for taking it off.
Old 07-23-2004, 01:34 PM
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where could i fine UR pulleys?
Old 07-23-2004, 01:39 PM
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are they just as good as AEM pulleys?
Old 07-23-2004, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by moahdriven
where could i fine UR pulleys?

www.unorthodoxracing.com
Old 07-23-2004, 04:01 PM
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Its WAY HARDER...you'll need an impact gun. Then you'll need to lift the car/side take off the wheel and the plastic part (this is the easy part). After this you gotta find a way to get the gun to the bolt at an angle that the nut wont strip (180degrees or you'll strip your NUT) <---this doesnt sound right!!

Thats the "taking it off par" (more dirty thoughts), but first you gotta loosen the power steering pump and probably the alternator to take the belts off (haha they just keep coming)...OR you can just cut them 'couse you wont need them anymore.

i'm going to the gym and get my mind cleared!!

And theres a lot more going on, this is just what i saw the mechanic doing to my TL.

1-2hr sounds about right.
Old 07-23-2004, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by moahdriven
are they just as good as AEM pulleys?

bwaahaaa. Dude, AEM pulleys suck donkey nuts. They have virtually no performance value.

The UR crank is the only one that makes any power.
Old 07-23-2004, 09:12 PM
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the UR pulleys, how much power does that give?!
Old 07-23-2004, 09:28 PM
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5-8whp claimed...expect 5.
Old 07-23-2004, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tpatel
the UR pulleys, how much power does that give?!
Based on a bone stock CL-S 6speed.



The results on a TL should be close to the same. Power will increase from idle to redline. Modifications like the UR pulley and the UniChip that add power throughout the power band are much more valuable than modifications that only add power once VTEC is engaged.
Old 07-23-2004, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Based on a bone stock CL-S 6speed.



The results on a TL should be close to the same. Power will increase from idle to redline. Modifications like the UR pulley and the UniChip that add power throughout the power band are much more valuable than modifications that only add power once VTEC is engaged.
o wow, that adds a hefty amt. i thought I/H/E were the only bolt ons that would give a nice gain. i shall add the UR pulleys to my wishlist
Old 07-24-2004, 03:46 AM
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apparently its horrible for your cars engine in the long run
Old 07-24-2004, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by moahdriven
apparently its horrible for your cars engine in the long run

i dunno if that's 100% true though. an improperly manufactured and balanced one is, yes. but if the product is well made it shouldnt have any harmful side affects. plus we have members here with high miles who are running UR pullies. let's see if they chime in.

SSTS
Old 07-24-2004, 08:48 AM
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I have most of the bolt on modifications. Comptech Icebox, headers, springs, sways, Mugen thermostat and fan switch.

I have been reading about the UR crank pulley for quite a while. This is one mod I will probably pass on as the gains are not worth the risk of long term bearing damage.

I plan on keeping my car for several years. If there are members who have put more than 50,000 miles on their cars and have had their crank bearings checked, I would like to hear from them. If they can verify no excess wear, I would consider this mod.
Old 07-24-2004, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by moahdriven
apparently its horrible for your cars engine in the long run
MYTH!


People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
Old 07-24-2004, 04:10 PM
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^^tru, tru...its been talked over in MANY threads
there hasnt been 1cast reported with such a problem.
Old 07-24-2004, 08:36 PM
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Mr Steve:
So are you saying that our TLs do not have harmonic balancers, and therefore it doesn't matter if we change the OEM crank pulley? Just want to confirm...thx.
Old 07-24-2004, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by patrick
Mr Steve:
So are you saying that our TLs do not have harmonic balancers, and therefore it doesn't matter if we change the OEM crank pulley? Just want to confirm...thx.
Unorthodox Racing would not have built a crank pulley if our cars required one. Unorthodox Racing is a very reputable company and their products are top notch.
Old 07-25-2004, 05:00 PM
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How about 181,000 miless, is that enough proof?
Old 07-26-2004, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by chuckstl
How about 181,000 miless, is that enough proof?
181,000 miles? ?!? That's a lot of mileage! Thx Chuck, good to know.
Old 07-26-2004, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by chuckstl
How about 181,000 miless, is that enough proof?

How many of those miles with the UR Crank pulley?
Old 07-26-2004, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dj5
How many of those miles with the UR Crank pulley?
Werd. Good question.
Old 07-26-2004, 01:36 PM
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3piece

Is buying and installing the UR 3 piece pulley set for our car safe also?. I heard that its ok as long as you dont install a huge sound system.
Old 07-26-2004, 02:01 PM
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i think if you guys go around and look at the other boards with domestic and foreign cars you will find that underdrive pulleys are safe if manufactured correctly. it's not like they're new. they've been around for a long time now.

if you have a large sound system the alternator pulley can have adverse effects. the alternator will not be turning as fast and you may be 'starving' some things of power. this is just as bad as putting too much voltage across something. i can't remember offhand if UR said they have a pulley for just this type of setup. although alot of people have not had any problems with the alternator pulley as i have read here. personally it seems like alot of work to me to do the PS and ALT pulleys. the crank pulley is what you really want.

SSTS
Old 07-26-2004, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by darkfox12
Is buying and installing the UR 3 piece pulley set for our car safe also?. I heard that its ok as long as you dont install a huge sound system.
14) "Can I use the underdrive pulleys if I have a high wattage stereo system?"

All of the pulleys allow stereo systems of up to approximately 600 watts RMS. If the stereo system in question is above that wattage amount then the owner has two options. They can purchase our stock or oversize diameter crank pulley or we can make a custom alternator pulley, which will be smaller in diameter and will increase the voltage output.

Capacitors are a smart addition as they store the power the amplifiers need for peak draw. Our stock diameter series used with capacitors allow the vehicle owner to achieve the cleanest and most powerful sound with no loss in voltage output. Another good option would be to install a second battery or batteries just for the stereo.
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