So I noticed recently that while driving in the range of 30 to 40 mph the tach will bounce up and down about 200 - 300 rpms. The engine will kind of make a vroom vroom noise. This is while in D5. So it did again today and I put it in D4 to see if it would continue to do this. While in D4 it drove fine. The weird thing is that it doesn't always seem to do it in D5 at those speeds just sometimes. Any Ideas. Thanks in advance.

2003 TlS

 

is the rpm actually changing, or just the indication?

vroom vroom- please explain

is the trans slipping slightly as you are on a hill,, or after its been driven an hour the prob occurs
details details details

 

miles, trans original or replaced- date
trans fluid condition = color and smell

 

The trans is soild as I go up hills at this speed it only seems to happen as I am on a road traveling around 35mph.

 

The trans was replaced around Sept of 2005 at about 50K miles. The car now has 98000 and the trans fluid was replaced at 94500 miles. Have not checked smell yet. Has external jetkit also.

 

lot of sarcasm in here.

 

Sorry for the red text. As you can see I am new around here

 

01tl4tl - thanks for helping. It usually happens about 10 minutes into a drive not after a long ride and on a flat road not while going up hills.

 

first thing for you to know:
on here red text means sarcasm/ often joking harrassment between friends on a typo or error
Not used as a color to highlight answers~

where was the fluid change done- what type fluid?
honda/acura atf or something else
method of changing atf and total qts used?

the battery connections have been cleaned and charging system tested at a parts store? (free)

carry many keys on the key ring?
try wiggling the key... while parked!! can you make it happen that way, meaning bad ign switch

Happens regardless of route taken?- just time since start? every time, only dead cold...any other details to help the band here?

 

Now I understand jjashaa comment lol. Thansk for the heads up. The Fluid change was done by Honda so I would assume it was Honda atf, right? The battery connections are extremely clean but I have not actually cleaned nor tested them at autozone since I noticed this issue. I do have a handful of keys so I will try the wiggling and let you know what I find. To be honest it usually happens on the highway and it has been cold weather. I didn't notice this in the summer. The car is always warm but usually it happens after about 10 minutes or more of running / driving. For example I will take the exit and let the car shift out at low rpms. Say im going 60 and I see traffic coming up I will let off the gas ahead of time and coast and eventually the speed drops to under 40. I will give then give the car moderate gas but not enough to downshift. This is when I notice the issue. I did some playing around today to see when it occurs. I was going around 38mph on the highway because the roads were wet, I then gave the car moderate gas and it did it, so I put it in ss and I was in 5th gear. It almost seems like the car is bogging down because I am going under 40 in 5th gear, does that make sense? It seems like the car should downshift into 4th while coasting but it doesn't unless I give it enough gas to do so which doesn't slip one bit. So whenever the car is in 5th gear and im going around 40mph it seems to happen. If I put the car in d4 and do the exact same driving the car is fine. So it is only in 5th gear. Thanks again for your help!

 

you are talking the speed range where its hunting for 5th gear and TQ lockup is on and off- the ecu wants different than your reality at that moment

Normally if stuck in traffic like situation below 50mph- put it in D4 so it stops trying to save gas
dont forget to go back in D5 when it clears

actual tach jumping.. I leave for our electronic experts to point out where a connection may be at fault or ???

 

Thanks for the info. It is just kind of weird that it just started doing this as I have been driving the same way all along. The only change that I know of is the cold weather. When you say hunting for 5th gear what exactly does that mean because I am already in 5th gear? Is it possible that it is electrical? Also I noticed that is does this anywhere around 45mph.

 

So I have really been watching the tach as I drive. I thought it was only 5th gear but it is not. Today I was on a road with a speed limit of 40mph. I started off after a red light and the car shifted normally. All of a sudden the tach was surging when I was moving at about 40mph. I put it into ss mode to check the gear and I was in fourth. 01tl4tl - Does this change your thought about it hunting for 5th gear and trying to save gas? Please let me know because I it could be serious (beginning of tranny failure...again) I would like to take it to Honda/Acura asap as I put many miles on my car daily. Thanks again for all of your help.

 

If you frequently drive at speeds like that try putting it in D4 and see if it continues.

 

so its just the displayed rpm- not actual engine surging- is that correct?

and yes it does open more possible causes than lockup/hunting etc of TC

 

No it's not just the displayed it is the engine also. I can hear and feel the engine surge.

 

I have briefly put it into d4 after d5 was surging and it did not do it once in d4. I will try that again today and let you know what I get for results. What does that mean when d5 surges and d4 doesn't?

 

the 5th gear clutch pack is going
dont remember which gear it shares a shaft with--probably 2nd~

 

What exactly does that mean? The cars throttle response is great in d4 but sometimes in d5 it isn't good at all unless I really get on it. If the 5th gear pack is going then why does it surge when in d5 and 4th gear? Thanks again for your help.

 

stop by aamco and let them test drive it, for an in person opinion

 

Can just the 5th gear pack be fixed or is it a bigger issue? Also any idea how much if just the 5th gear pack an be fixed?

 

if its one clutch pack- its all of them
that means the friction material has worn off the disc- the grabbing/slipping feeling is them trying to grip and hold to engage the trans

if its a worn pack set, its total rebuild time and new Torque Convertor, as the particles will have plugged its outlet screens to the system that makes the trans actually work

expect a low of $1500
( ziner found that shop quote Please ck in with results)

to a average high of $2500- even $3500 has been reported!!

(major reason for cars value decline=trans issue)

depends on how many parts it needs- you cant tell for sure on auto trans until its in 100 pieces on the workbench- clean and measure-inspect everything...

of course you can have many other things wrong that will make your symptoms
thats why a trip for free inspection would be next
they ck for codes and test drive looking for specific symptoms. ck the cv axles etc for you to find the problem

 

Thanks for the info. What are other symptoms of the clutch pack going bad? Does it make sense that d4 drives fine but once in a while d5 does the surging? What would I look for in the cv axels? Is there anything else that I can check. I have loss some throttle response while in d5, does that go along with the clutch pack going bad?

 

meaning what- you push the gas and it doesnt come out of `overdrive`tc lockup, and start to go faster right away?

Have you cleaned the TB air plate inside it, hows the spark plugs?
ever run good cleaner thru gas or manifold vac port?
air filter clean- all basics covered right--tire pressures..no broken motor mounts

symptoms of pack wearout: slipping-revving under load, doesnt want to engage or hold--
example: full throttle getting on freeway from 20 mph and stand on it, whats it do

evidence of material in fluid change

flashing D5 light on dash probably with slipping of clutch

code for engine overspeed, but not in limp mode and runs fine,,never over revved
(we do have a rev limiter, but it could fail)

doesnt want to shift on longer drives as material clogs the TC outlet screens
(if that happens- park and wait 30-60 minutes)

You can take a 3 ounce sample of atf and have a lab like blackstone test it!
Also the amount of metal and whats in it,, on the drain plug magnet- will tell wear inside

 

Isn't it usually 2nd & 3rd, not all of them?

 

haha..

vroomm vrooommmmmmm