Synthetic vs regular oil
#1
Hollywood
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Synthetic vs regular oil
I know this is beat up to death but couldnt find the facts I need. I know Acura recommends the oil change at 7500 in the manual, I was curious if I ran synthetic oil can I go longer? if so how long? Or should I stay with regular oil every 5-6 K?
#2
Originally Posted by ddayton217
if I ran synthetic oil can I go longer?
Originally Posted by ddayton217
if so how long?
Originally Posted by ddayton217
Or should I stay with regular oil every 5-6 K?
#3
Racer
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Like you said, this issue has been beaten to death. Yes, you can go longer but your filter might not be able to handle it. That's why people have been using oversized filter like Mobile M1-105.
There's a site on the net that someone did an un-scientific experiment on the oil in his car. He would send some samples to be analyze every 1K miles. The oil does not degrade until like 14K of use.
I would stay with the regular interval but w/ synthetic instead of reg oil. I believe in prevention especially w/ car.
There's a site on the net that someone did an un-scientific experiment on the oil in his car. He would send some samples to be analyze every 1K miles. The oil does not degrade until like 14K of use.
I would stay with the regular interval but w/ synthetic instead of reg oil. I believe in prevention especially w/ car.
#5
I love cars!
Another way to look at it is: are you going to keep the car 200,000 miles? If not, I believe the benefits of stynthetic may not be worth the cost. I mean, the car was ENGINEERED to use conventional, unlike sat, the Corvette which gets a factory fill of synthetic because of the abuse it's likely to see. I have yet to see a warranty claim denied because someone used CONVENTIONAL oil, so what benefits are you looking to get by the switch?
#6
I love cars!
I ran Mobil 1 from the first oil change in my brand new 97 Z28 until I sold the car at 43,000 miles, 3 years later. Now, I did "enjoy" the car as it was intended, so perhaps I offset that some by using synthetic, but for a sluxry sport sedan, unless you plan to drive it forever, save your money for mods on your next ride. In the 3-6 years you're likely to have the TL, the only "day and night" difference in performance between synthetic oil will be the amount of cash in your wallet.
#7
Senior Moderator
I run syn and run 10-15k intervals (depending on the driving i did on the oil. If using syn i would go atleast 7500 intervals. To this day it doesnt use a drop of oil betweeen oilchanges, and im nearing in on 200,000 miles
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#8
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![Werd](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
Why don't people trust what Honda says the TL needs, since they are the ones who engineered it? I run conventional and I will not change it until the maintenance required light comes on.. even then, the oil is dark but not black.
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 03CoupeV6
![Werd](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
Why don't people trust what Honda says the TL needs, since they are the ones who engineered it?
![Werd](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
Originally Posted by vincentliwf
which brand of Synthetic is the best for our car?
#11
If you;
1. Operate the vehicle in extreme conditions, e.g., extreme cold, extreme heat, oil cooled turbo, racing.
2. Go to extended drain intervals
Then use synthetic. Otherwise, save your money.
No offense, to anyone, but people who report they 'feel' improvements after switching to synthetic oil (for any reason other than one of the aforementioned reasons) are succumbing to the power of advertising. Take 3 equally equipped TLs, one with synthetic, one with an expensive dino and one with cheap dino oil and ask people to pick the car with synthetic. The success rate would be no more than 33%.
1. Operate the vehicle in extreme conditions, e.g., extreme cold, extreme heat, oil cooled turbo, racing.
2. Go to extended drain intervals
Then use synthetic. Otherwise, save your money.
No offense, to anyone, but people who report they 'feel' improvements after switching to synthetic oil (for any reason other than one of the aforementioned reasons) are succumbing to the power of advertising. Take 3 equally equipped TLs, one with synthetic, one with an expensive dino and one with cheap dino oil and ask people to pick the car with synthetic. The success rate would be no more than 33%.
#13
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by MikePA
If you;
1. Operate the vehicle in extreme conditions, e.g., extreme cold, extreme heat, oil cooled turbo, racing.
2. Go to extended drain intervals
Then use synthetic. Otherwise, save your money.
No offense, to anyone, but people who report they 'feel' improvements after switching to synthetic oil (for any reason other than one of the aforementioned reasons) are succumbing to the power of advertising. Take 3 equally equipped TLs, one with synthetic, one with an expensive dino and one with cheap dino oil and ask people to pick the car with synthetic. The success rate would be no more than 33%.
1. Operate the vehicle in extreme conditions, e.g., extreme cold, extreme heat, oil cooled turbo, racing.
2. Go to extended drain intervals
Then use synthetic. Otherwise, save your money.
No offense, to anyone, but people who report they 'feel' improvements after switching to synthetic oil (for any reason other than one of the aforementioned reasons) are succumbing to the power of advertising. Take 3 equally equipped TLs, one with synthetic, one with an expensive dino and one with cheap dino oil and ask people to pick the car with synthetic. The success rate would be no more than 33%.
#14
Originally Posted by ..
No offense, to anyone, but people who report they 'feel' improvements after switching to synthetic oil (for any reason other than one of the aforementioned reasons) are succumbing to the power of advertising.
When it comes to oil changes though, the way I look at it ... if I take it in to get changed, i'll pay $30-$35 for the conventional what ever is in the barrel this week with a pos Fram filter and the high school kid over torquing the bolt. If I do it my self, I still spend the $30-$35 but get Mobil-1 Syntec with M1-105 filter and new crush washer ... and I feel more comfortable changing the oil every 4000-4500 miles. When it starts looking black I just think it's not very effective but my degree is in CS, not Petrol Eng so what do I know.
#15
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
I could tell imediatly in mine on how fast it cranked over, especially when the temps were cooler. I also noticed the engine idle smoother
#16
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
I could tell imediatly in mine on how fast it cranked over, especially when the temps were cooler. I also noticed the engine idle smoother
#17
Why is everyone so concerned about getting extended drain intervals? Oil is cheap compared to the investment in your car. Change the oil, and change it often. I use synthetic, but don't even consider going to extended drain intervals. I change it when I feel the oil needs changed. Since I don't drive my car daily, I usually end up changing it after 6-8 months. I went by the MID for the first change, had the oil analysis done, and it showed the oil was SHOT! I'll never trust the MID again. My car is a huge investment and I tend to take care of things that cost a lot of money. If you're gonna sell, lease or othewise get rid of the car in 2-3 years...who cares?
#18
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Originally Posted by JetJock
Why is everyone so concerned about getting extended drain intervals? Oil is cheap compared to the investment in your car. Change the oil, and change it often. I use synthetic, but don't even consider going to extended drain intervals. I change it when I feel the oil needs changed. Since I don't drive my car daily, I usually end up changing it after 6-8 months. I went by the MID for the first change, had the oil analysis done, and it showed the oil was SHOT! I'll never trust the MID again. My car is a huge investment and I tend to take care of things that cost a lot of money. If you're gonna sell, lease or othewise get rid of the car in 2-3 years...who cares?
The engine isn't something you've gotta worry about, it's going to last forever. But the transmission is cause for concern.
#20
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OEM filter is way to go, if u want to drive until 15000 miles then u just change an oil filter every 5000 miles will be good
conventional oil oxizides after 2500-3000 miles so basically u driving without the maximum power available, but synthetic oil gives the same performance at least 5000miles
i put amsoil 5W-30 and ran 3 track days and 5000 miles, afterall it is still running strong, regular oil cannot even come close, u can actually feel the difference
conventional oil oxizides after 2500-3000 miles so basically u driving without the maximum power available, but synthetic oil gives the same performance at least 5000miles
i put amsoil 5W-30 and ran 3 track days and 5000 miles, afterall it is still running strong, regular oil cannot even come close, u can actually feel the difference
#21
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Originally Posted by phaze
how bad would be it if after a year of using synthetic i switch to conventional?
#23
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Yes, this has been beaten to death. Here is a copy of my old post. Just waste your money if you wanna feel good about using synthetic. I'll buy a good lunch with what I save.
I put over 300,000 miles on my 4 banger Prelude and Accord with Castrol GTX=Always used honda oil filters. NO NEED FOR SYNTHETIC!!! Average cost per oil change was around 8 to 12 dollars. When under the car I checked the Constant V. Boots and looked for signs of leaks and other wear and tear. After you change the oil over 100 times, as I did in each of my pervious Honda products=it gets routine and easy. The Acura (99TL) is even easier since the oil filter is mounted up (not sideways) and easy to replace. A far cry from the Accord and Prelude=Messy job anyway you did it. I also get the satisfaction of knowing I'm using good oil and saving BIG BUCKS over the life of the car. Routinely changed the oil every 2 to 4 thousand in the Hondas. I figured I saved over $2000 doing it myself, with the added satisfaction of knowing other things under the car were looked at and inspected!
I put over 300,000 miles on my 4 banger Prelude and Accord with Castrol GTX=Always used honda oil filters. NO NEED FOR SYNTHETIC!!! Average cost per oil change was around 8 to 12 dollars. When under the car I checked the Constant V. Boots and looked for signs of leaks and other wear and tear. After you change the oil over 100 times, as I did in each of my pervious Honda products=it gets routine and easy. The Acura (99TL) is even easier since the oil filter is mounted up (not sideways) and easy to replace. A far cry from the Accord and Prelude=Messy job anyway you did it. I also get the satisfaction of knowing I'm using good oil and saving BIG BUCKS over the life of the car. Routinely changed the oil every 2 to 4 thousand in the Hondas. I figured I saved over $2000 doing it myself, with the added satisfaction of knowing other things under the car were looked at and inspected!
#24
Just buy it and do the oil change yourself. Lower overhead cost.
Mobil 1 $20-30
Oil Filter $10 no more than that, depending on grade you choose.
BTW, cheapest place to get Mobil 1 is Wal-mart.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Mobil 1 $20-30
Oil Filter $10 no more than that, depending on grade you choose.
BTW, cheapest place to get Mobil 1 is Wal-mart.
![Yum](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yum.gif)
#25
Hollywood
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Well I had the oil changed at the local Valvoline with 5w-20 Synthetic and it cost me 39.99......I'll feel better that I can go at least 5-7k without a oil change or if I look at it this way.....$40 for the oil change (synthetic)every 6k lets say...thats still like only $20 a regular change every 3k....Im good with that!
#26
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Originally Posted by ddayton217
Well I had the oil changed at the local Valvoline with 5w-20 Synthetic and it cost me 39.99......I'll feel better that I can go at least 5-7k without a oil change or if I look at it this way.....$40 for the oil change (synthetic)every 6k lets say...thats still like only $20 a regular change every 3k....Im good with that!
#27
It all depends what you want. Basically:
Conventional oil is about 40% additive. It will start to oxidize before its recommended change interval, but has an additive to hinder this. It will thicken up more in cold weather creating increased wear on cold starts. It needs to be changed more frequently. Its cheaper. Yes it "meets" the manufacturers requirements for lubrication. Cannot go to synthetics after using conventinal oils for an extended amount of time because it will leak out.
Synthentic oils are almost all an engineered molecules with very, very little additive. Much more slippery than conventional oils. Will not thicken much in cold weather unless you are at the North Pole. Conventional oil can be used after synthetic used for an extended amount of time.
Run times are extremely long. We tested the syns in our lab and they are barely broken in at 15,000. Ran some test engines at a 100,000 mile test and the oil was still on spec. Started a Ford 2.3 4 cylinder OVHC with conventional oil at -40 F and it took 12 minutes for the oil to get overhead cam. Syns were there in seconds.
The commercial that Mobil 1 used to have about there oil in a frying pan is very accurate. They don't degrade in excessive heat.
Synthetic oils "exceed" the lubrication requirements of most motors. If you base your decision economics, (barring warranty paranoia) one syn oil change is less than 2-3 conventional changes and offers better protection.
Yes, conventional oils work well, but not the best at cold weather startup. My choice is 100% synthetic after the first oil change. We have tested the Mobil 1 product and it is very very good. By the way, I do not work for Mobil, but one of their competitors.
ML
Conventional oil is about 40% additive. It will start to oxidize before its recommended change interval, but has an additive to hinder this. It will thicken up more in cold weather creating increased wear on cold starts. It needs to be changed more frequently. Its cheaper. Yes it "meets" the manufacturers requirements for lubrication. Cannot go to synthetics after using conventinal oils for an extended amount of time because it will leak out.
Synthentic oils are almost all an engineered molecules with very, very little additive. Much more slippery than conventional oils. Will not thicken much in cold weather unless you are at the North Pole. Conventional oil can be used after synthetic used for an extended amount of time.
Run times are extremely long. We tested the syns in our lab and they are barely broken in at 15,000. Ran some test engines at a 100,000 mile test and the oil was still on spec. Started a Ford 2.3 4 cylinder OVHC with conventional oil at -40 F and it took 12 minutes for the oil to get overhead cam. Syns were there in seconds.
The commercial that Mobil 1 used to have about there oil in a frying pan is very accurate. They don't degrade in excessive heat.
Synthetic oils "exceed" the lubrication requirements of most motors. If you base your decision economics, (barring warranty paranoia) one syn oil change is less than 2-3 conventional changes and offers better protection.
Yes, conventional oils work well, but not the best at cold weather startup. My choice is 100% synthetic after the first oil change. We have tested the Mobil 1 product and it is very very good. By the way, I do not work for Mobil, but one of their competitors.
ML
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