joe80055

As you guys already know, I started having my tranny slip a while back and decided to go ahead and purchase a used one to go ahead and replace from the old. I asked fsttyms1 for more info in his 6 speed converion thread but I didn't want to throw it off topic so I made this one up instead. I'm planning on swapping the trannies myself, so before I begin, I need to know two things:

1. The tools needed to remove the bolts on the tranny (i.e. sockets, wrenches, etc.)
2. Other than coolant lines, wiring, and removing the CAI what else should I remove.
3. Are there any bolts I should be aware of on the tranny that might be a PITA to remove.

I'll provide pictures of the progress, but all I need to do is get started off on the right foot. Hopefully this will only be a 6-10 hour job...hopefully.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

You're swapping 4-speed tranny with another 4-speed tranny?

joe80055

yup, replacing a no good tranny with a decent one.

03CoupeV6

A decent 2nd Gen TL tranny?! Those exist?!

Good luck on that swap. Wish I were brave enough to attempt something like that.

fsttyms1

not really that hard. no different than any other part that bolts on to the motor(other that it weighs over 300 lbs)

If you use common sense and figure out what needs to be unbolted its not bad at all

Bob_F

Definitely take a pile of photos!

I've never replaced a transmission so I'll just offer some general advice.

Be prepared to bag and label parts as you go. That can save you a lot of grief down the road.

Make sure that you have good quality tools. (You can get hurt using cheap tools that can fail. I learned that lesson the hard way.)

Do you have a Helms or a Haynes service manual for some amount of guidance?

Does the used transmission have any sort of warranty should it have problems? If it has a 30 day warranty you'll want to get moving in case you run into a problem.

How many miles are on the used transmission?

Good Luck!

Bob

fsttyms1

Go buy a bag of ziplock bags and a sharpie. and stick the bolts you remove from specific parts into them and label them so you can take alot of confusion out when its time to reassemble (i did when i swapped out autos the first time and for my 6 speed swap and it made it much much easier)

joe80055

haha, I'll take pictures and start posting as of today. Just wait and see I bought new toys to play with and everything.. I'm just going to have some serious issues getting that tranny out of friend's trunk.

So far, there is 35k miles on the transmission.
I bought only Craftsman tools:

1. an ATV Jack for the transmission--comes sith the braces for support so I can strap on the tranny so it doens't roll over or anything.
2. 1/2" drive 24" breaker bar... I think it's longer, I have to see
3. an SUV jack for more clearance
4. metric sockets 3/8 drive (I have the 1/2-3/8 adapter)
5. 18" flex socket wrench

The installation starts tomorrow!! I was thinking of using duct tape to label where all the holes are and use a sharpie to give each hole and screw their number. Also, I'd use the unmounted tranny as reference. Is that okay enough?

I'll take pictures tonight (probably around 3am after work) and post them up.

SodaLuvr

fla-tls has a transmission shop, perhaps he'll chime in or you can ask him.

Why don't you just buy a rebuild kit from bulkpart and rebuild your existing unit?

fsttyms1

there really arent that many bolts and nuts. just label them something you can remember and it will all go ok. You mostlikely wont be able to use the atv jack for teh tranny. it needs to be sliightly tipped and there isnt much room for it under the car.

Ive done it twice already, i dont believe he has. Its not hard at all.

As for the rebuild kit. I wouldnt even start to attempt this (well i actually would and did, but this is far above the standard DIY job, and if you have to ask how to get teh tranny out step by step this is NOT something you should attempt)
There are special tools needed to take apart and assemble, feeler gauges/mics ect.. Pluss special instructions on assemblyNot something for the beginner or even moderate DIYer

joe80055

I'm ready to do the swap but I'm really having a hard time getting the tranny out of the trunk and there's no available manpower to help me at all... any suggestions to lifting this tranny?

fsttyms1

Man Power That or go to teh local rental shop and rent a engine hoist. (might not be a bad idea for this project any way. It woul dmake droppint the tranny out alot easier. You could use that to hold the tranny. Most rental places have them. (if you were closer id let you use mine)

joe80055

sweet! good Idea, I'll look into that. So far I got as far as removing the battery compartment, CAI, and now working on draining the coolant and disconnecting the coolant tubes in the way, I'll give another update later this afternoon

special e. dition

Go get em Joe!!!!!!

fsttyms1

you will need to remove the front bumper and lower splash gaurds.

Also to make you life a little easier. un hook the washer fluid line on the passenger side from the clip on the strut tower. Then unhook the struts from the hood (hood side) raise hood to vertical position. Take a 12mm wrench loosen the strut ball on the hood on the drivers side, and thread it into the threaded hole down lower and conect the strut to it, that will hold the hood in a vertical position to give you alot more working room

joe80055

cool beans, I'll go ahead and do that then..

Questions:

There's a black cable that runs out from the bottom of the tranny, as I was undoing the bolts which were unscrewing easily, all of a sudden, without any force or anything both those bolts that were holding the cable to the tranny just snapped (on the old transmission) what's that cable for? Can i pull it out?... am I in trouble?

Also, the shaft that spins the wheels from the tranny, how do I go about seperating that from the tranny?

Other than that, i'm doing fine with the swap so far... found one place that rents hoists, they're charging only $15 for half the day and $20 a full day. not bad at all.

fsttyms1

where does the cable run to?

the half shafts, ONCE you get teh halfshaft nuts off (the large nut on the center of the hub) you need to remove shock fork, then you need to loosen the 2 bolts that attach the radius rod to teh lower control arm(for a step coming up) then you need to remove the lower ball joint nut and seperate it from the lower control arm. you can then pull the spindle out and away from the car pushing the halfshaft thru the hub so that it comes out. once out of the hub DO NOT and i stress DO NOT pull hard on the half shft to pull it out of the tranny.get a pry bar oe screw driver behind it where it meets the tranny to pop it out of the tranny while trying to gently pulling on it and it will pop out of the tranny

joe80055

It's the large black cable that runs into some sort of a bottom plate of the tranny... Not sure how I can describe it, there are metal fibers inside of it if that rings any bells, I wish i had my camera on me but I won't be able to get it until after 3 today.

For your directions concerning the half shalf, by any chance, do you have a picture to follow by? I'll be able to use it as reference.

fsttyms1

I know it goes to the tranny, i was talking the other end of it. Where does it go. are you talking the shift cable.

As for pics. No i dont. You will see once you start to take things off. Spend some time under the car and stuff thinking about things and what looks like it needs to be removed for it o come out. It will make more sense that way.

joe80055

Geez, the halfshaft nuts are HUGE... what's with the grove? How is it possible to remove the nut if the wheel keeps turning?

joe80055

I think I'm confusing myself here.. the half shaft nuts, they are on the wheel hub itself, correct?


After this step, I'll finally be able to drop the tranny.

ProvidenceLeaf

Hey Joe...I don't know the answer to your question, but I wanted to say good luck. I wish I wasn't so busy or else I'd be helping you out dude.

joe80055

hey! you're actually alive, you've been missing for a while. It's okay that you're busy, i'm actually showing some progress here... This is probably the heaviest DIY I've ever done for this car.

joe80055

Okay, did some research.. found some answers... This site actually helped quite a bit, off to autozone to get a punch



http://www.c-speedracing.com/

fsttyms1

nock the key way out a little. Then stick a screw driver thru the center of the caliper into the center of the rotor (by the rotor veins) to keep the wheel from spining

MikePA

Even an impact wrench wont remove the nut without holding the wheel from spinning?

kuni808

I just wanted to say Good luck bro!!! i give you a hella lot of credit for attemting this. good luck bro!!!

fsttyms1

That thing is on there. Unless you have a really good impact gun and Really big compressor, NO WAY

Ive done it 2 times, and its really not that hard. There is no need to think it a super hard job just because it got the word tranny in it. its not much different than any other bolt on project other than it weighs in excess of 300 lbs (not trying to take the limelite off joe)

fsttyms1

Joe if you can wait till tomorrow ill scan in the instructions from the helms manual for you (say like by noon ish) ????? let me know

fsttyms1

All though i think you should do it with out, like i had too

joe80055

That's fine with me, whatever floats your boat. This Helms manual, I've been looking for one for a while, is it pretty much a resource/reference CD or does it come as a paperback like most other car manuals?
!! Now that would be just wrong. lol

Question: I'm sure you know the two tubes coonected to the tranny that go to and from the radiator-- Although everything's been drained, does it matter if I can just reconnect those tubes to the new tranny even though there may be still some of the old tranny fluid in there?

It's crazy how it was pitch black, I accidentally mistook it for motor oil for a sec.

joe80055

Well shit. Shit, shit, shit. The impact gun I have only puts out 240 lbs, I guess that's not enough then huh? lol

I'll have to start looking for a rental then!

MikePA

My IR impact gun puts out over 500 lbs and as Kris said, you need a big enough compressor to get the rated performance out of it.

joe80055

^ That sucks for me then since I don't have the money to get something to expensive... how much does it cost to rent one usually?

Another thing, what's the size of nut on the wheel hub?

fsttyms1

there arent any tubes that go from tranny to radiator (atleast not on the 5 speed. Where are the tubes? on the back?)

As for impact gun, unless you have a high enough rated compressor the gun wont do any thing. The guns require a specific cfm at a rated psi and thats usually found on larger (2 stage belt driven compressors) Just get yourself a good breaker bar and pipe (i used one that was 4 foot long) and muscle away. you can buy or rent the socket at alot of auto parts stores

joe80055

I have the breaker bar already.. I'll just head over to lowes and get the pipe early this afternoon.

I guess this applies to the 4-speeds only, but yes, there are two tubes that lead going into and out of the radiator, as if there was a built-in tranny cooler installed in there somewhere. It's weird. AH! camera phone!! I love technology.. sweet, here are some pictures.. be surprised and amazed. Maybe this could be another reason as to why the 4-speed lasts longer than the 5AT?

Look at the two shiny metal tubes pointing out to the right... they have duct tape labels over them.





The tubes connected



The tubes going to the radiator



Anyone want to chime in on this?

mr.motoring

I used my electric 240 ft/lbs 1/2" impact wrench and removed that nut no problem. Maybe I got lucky, at least try it out before moving on to bigger power. You can also add your own muscle torque by turning the gun counter-clockwise with your hand while the gun is rocking away.

SodaLuvr

Those are pipes holding ATF, that head to a concealed portion of the radiator. The purpose of running ATF to a separate section of the radiator is to serve as a heat exchange for the ATF and coolant together, to aid in warm-up and a consistent temperature.

AFAIK, both the 4-spd and 5-spd units in the 2G TL have a radiator heat exchanger. The BDGA? unit in the 3G TL does not have pipes running to the radiator, but instead has a "heat reducer" type unit.

You MUST flush the cooler lines and the radiator heat exchanger (one holding ATF) prior to installing the transmission. If you do not, any residual metal will KILL your new transmission. Lubegard makes a cooler line flush product that comes in an aerosol can. You hook up the can to a cooler line, press the button, and it cleans out your heat exchanger and lines...it works OK, but isn't perfect.

fsttyms1

The 5 speeds Do NOT have tranny fluid that runs to the radiator. That is a 4 speed only thing. The 5 speed has the heat exchange on top of the tranny.

But Yes, you really should flush your lines and radiator out.

SodaLuvr

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/t...ler_kleen.html