Misha322

Hi All,

So for some time now I am noticing some mechanical noise out of my front suspension/steering. I had alignment done and was told everything is nice and tight, but car still pulls badly to the right and I can feel in my pedals noise slight knocking from what seems steering. The last check that I did and that assures me there is something loos in the steering, is when the car is in park and on I turn the wheel back and forth left/right, I hear a knocking noise at the end of the turn of each direction. It drives me crazy as I know something is up. I drive long commutes, 1-1/2 each way on the interstate and the last thing I need is for something to go terribly wrong in transit. I try to do thing my self on the car and need advice as to what it could be so I can judge if it is something I can handle.

fsttyms1

Find a different mechanic!!!

Sounds like it may be a ball joint or tie rod end.

Misha322

I do want to disclose one more thing, about a year ago i did curb check going about 30mph with my right front wheel during some bad weather. I'm sure that might of been the culprit or just accelerated the unavoidable required maintenance.

01tl4tl

you probably bent the tie rod end and somehow the alignment shop still got it in spec- or close and sent it out still pulling--

whats your spec sheet say on the final readout?

Have another shop look at it and mention the damage!

totaledTL

I once had a car that pulled one way. The local tire/alignment shop couldn't seem to correct it after several attempts. They insisted it was aligned. Not until I took it to a specialty alignment shop was it fixed.

Misha322

I was not sure if there are shops that only specialize in alignment/steering

fsttyms1

Find a different shop. Tell them about the curbing and what side. Tell them of your alignment issue of still pulling after an alignment.

Misha322

Reading the DIY post for Upper Control Arm, it appears he had the same symptoms, I wonder if it could be that as well??... I know how to check for a bad Tie Rod, how you check for bad Control Arm?

01tl4tl

the caster will be off as well as other alignment probs

Misha322

So a little update:

Purchased L/R Tie Rod Ends and L/R Front Upper Control Arms to help solve the problem that might lie in loos Ball Joints. Went today to the new local DIY Auto Repair Shop to get it all installed.

(On a side note, I do want to recommend this new shop to all who live in Central Florida area, for a flat hourly rate you get to use car lifts, air tools and any other tool you can possibly need, as well as ASE certified mechanics help and advice. Worked on my car for three hours today and only cost me $60. http://<span style="color:Blue">www....air.com</span> )

So as I start working on my car, I ask the mechanic/owner to come by and help me inspect the steering to see if it's really what I think it is. After some looking around his diagnoses is that it's Steering Rack and Pinion. All ball joints seemed fairly tight, but I replaced them anyway as the car dose have 120,000 miles on it. But it seems that I now have to get a new/rebuilt Rack and Pinion which runs around $300 price tag from my quick search.

Any suggestions, comments or past experiences with this part are very much welcome. Not too much comes up on this subject in the search for the second gen., other then another guy who curb checked like me. The only instructions on its replacement that I found are in my copy of the Acura service manual.

01tl4tl

a few here have replaced the rack due to leakage- its probably from lack of fluid change and age
ask fsttyms1 about it if not in the DIY section- he did his iirc

This is why you let a pro diagnose things-- before you buy random parts

01tl4tl

you will want to do a full fluid flush of the pump and lines or old crud in system will ruin new rack

Misha322

You are absolutely correct, would not even think of arguing with you on this point. I think the only reason I did buy parts before fully diagnosing the problem, is after all the forum reading, it became evident that these items are due for a preventative swap if anything, like the motor mounts. But again, money could have been better spent on a more pressing and present problem.

Misha322

Now that I have been doing some digging for a part I ACTUALLY need.....

What would you all suggest is a wise choice, an OEM and what I think are new parts from a dealer like www.acuraoemparts.com (can you recommend another?), who sells all the components and part separately and all together will bring the price tag in the neighborhood of $800.

Or...

Go with a Remanufactured complete assembly from places like RockAuto.com or car-stuff.com (other dealer recommendations are welcome), that will run me around $300-$400 after I send back the core. Can you recommend a good re-manufacturer? (ATSCO, A-1 Cardone, Maval, CarSteering.com)

01tl4tl

get a rebuilt from whoever has a good warranty and price

I wasnt poking you over the parts purchase- but trying to get others in same situation to go to a shop for diagnosis

Never heard that motor mounts were preventive mait.- just replace one when broken is my feeling~
Same for control arm bushings and tie rod ends- when they get worn out and you plan to keep the car-replace
Should be sometime past 100kmiles depending on the roads in your area
Ca roads will beat it up bad,,,

As long as its fixed now is all that matters, and your car is tight again!

fsttyms1

if you know for a fact that the rack is what you need try to find a used one. They dont typically go bad. Use this to search for used ones. New they are expensive.

http://www.car-part.com/

Misha322

Well, when you grab the wheel (left or right) and you push it left then right, it will freely move in each direction until it reaches a dead end, roughly one (1) to two (2) inches of play in each direction. You can hear something like a rod hitting dead end when it comes to a stop.

01tl4tl

an alignment shop is your best place for accurate diagnosis on this- they know suspension and steering issues

Ck your local auto dismantling and recycling yard- formerly called junkyards till they figured out marketing~ and they are removing hazmat zenon hid bulbs etc for the govt on dead cars thereby serving the public safety.

If there is a TL with rear damage...good rack...