simplytltypes

I bought my car last year Certified with 100k warranty from an Acura Dealer. Supposedly they changed the brakes on the car at that time. Now almost a year later, I have 20k more miles on the car. When I brake I get a decent amount of shaking coming out of the front end. So I asked the dealer to take a look at the car. They said that the rotors need to be shaved, however I have 80% brakes left, so they don't recommend it yet. However, what the hell am I supposed to do in the mean time...live with the shaking???

Ok, so here is my real question. Since the car was certified and the brakes were done from the dealer during the certification process, shouldn't they be responsible to change and fix the problem with the shake at their expense? If not, what do you recommend I do to fix this issue.

As always, thanks a million. If it wasn't for this form, I don't know where I would get such great advise...

brakejob

i think brakes pads and rotors are a non covered friction item

simplytltypes

I kind of knew that... What do you suggest I do? Spend money on brand new brakes even though I have 80% brake pad left?

It does not seem right. You mean to say, if you were to get brand new brakes from a dealer, and the rotors shaved and within having 80% brake pads left the car starts shaking you will spend the money to buy the brakes all over again only to have it happen again to you....

There has to be some way to get around this issue without getting robbed.

brakejob

id get some new rotors and pads, the oem rotors are total shit

i went with brembo blanks on oem pads and could not be happier

simplytltypes

Ok you got my attention. How much did that setup run you for parts? and how much was install? Do you think I can get the parts from outside, and have the dealer install them for me? Would they touch outside parts like the rotors and pads?

simplytltypes

Ohh yeah, and one more thing... How many miles should these rotors and pads last under normal condition compared to the stock factory ones?

optomos

Rotora rotors are extremly good as well. EBC green stuff or satisfied pads. The life of the rotors just depend on your breaking habits & the pads that you use. Use only ceramic pads.

simplytltypes

What am looking to $spend$ here?

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

The stock rotors and pads lasted me just over 20k miles, if I remember right. The shaking was so bad that I couldn't brake properly at highway speeds. The dealership didn't even try to cut them; they straight up just replaced them with new ones in the front; the rear ones were fine.

At just around 37k miles or so, the new ones started showing the initial symptoms of being warped, so I replaced them with Rotora parts.

Rotora rotors and some decent pads will run you about 400+ dollars. A good investment.

whatwasthat

well, it seems you would only need to change the fronts... rotora slotted in the fronts would only cost you about 163$.. (streetbeatcustoms.com)... and 60ish$ satisfied ceramic pads (tirerack.com) .. or you could get brembo blanks for about 90$.


then look up the DIY for changing rotors and pads on this site you save you installation money...

ojen924

yeah my brakes got really bad. Someone was driving my car while I was out of town no idea who but when i got back my brake pedal was so low to the floor I couldn't stop right at a stop sign and a cop gave me a ticket.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

1. If you don't know who was driving your car, then you've got a problem there.
2. It the pedal is low to the floor, then that has nothing to do warping. You're losing hydraulic pressure. You either have a leak somewhere, have air in the system or collected too much water. Either way, if you don't get it flushed, you'll eventually lose all braking ability... at which time a ticket for a rolling stop would be the least of your worries.

brakejob

blanks and oem pads ran me about 200 bucks

Gingerbreadman

If you pull the tires off and pull the brake assembly off the rotors (very easy it just lifts off) then you should be able to take the rotors off yourself. This takes maybe 10 minutes per tire including the time to get the car jacked up and the tire off and back on and it only cost like $5 dollars or so per rotor you want turned at advance auto/auto zone/whoever you go to.

Thats what I would do because for 20 bucks and maybe two hours time (including waiting for rotors at the store) you can fix the problem yourself and be a hero to your wife and kids. They dont have to know it was so easy ... all you do with them is puff your chest up and say in a very in control voice "that should fix it.... i just had to resurface the ole rotors... yep ... the ole rotors will get you every time"

simplytltypes

But what the dealer told me was that it is not recommended to shave or change rotors, unless you change the pads also...

Jamesmoore

My 02 tl had a rotor recall. You may want to check.

t0ast

haha....don't forget to say you spent tons of money on new parts.... then you can use the money for new toys!

Gingerbreadman

simplytltypes,
I tend to agree that if you get it all the way down then you may as well swap the pads out and would have recommended that except you said you had like 80% pad life left. New pads would be like 30 bucks a set I believe (you probably will only do the front so 30 bucks total). If you have 80% pad left then it seems like a waste to me to change them unless you change them to something better.

It will not hurt anything to just turn the rotors and not change the pads. He said it was not recommended which is much different than it will hurt something.

Personally I would do a front end brake job on it (complete... both pad replace and rotor turn) to the tune of about 50 bucks if you do it yourself and call it a day. that would be a much better option than putting up with the vibration for the next 30k miles.

Green2000TL

Ask them to shave/re-surface the rotors for you, then ask to have the mechanic doing the work use a torq wrench to tighten the bolts with the same amount of pressure/force. Warpping is caused by differnt bolt pressures and heat...where the rotor warps when breaking due to the heat and preasure created the pads pressing against the rotors. That should correct the shaking and prevent future warping if done correctly.