tOny3

iTrader: (9)

All the knobs are down on the amp, freq is at 80 and bass boost is at 0.

I went to pick my sis up today from work and was in the car for about 45-1hr and the bass never cutoff on me. So really i dont know whats going on now

sl33kTL

Well hey nice budget system.
You did the right choice by going with custom ported box. I have been through 2 12 W1, 2 12" W3, 2 12" Alpine Type R's and finally settled down with my current babies, two 12" Rockford Fostgate T1's (The new Black ones, not the silver ones) and let me tell you THEY HIT HARD! I absolutley LOVE these subs, best I've ever owned. They are powered by RF T1000-1bdcp giving 1320 RMS at 2 ohms. Have two small Kinetic Batteries in the back and one Kinetik 1800 battery upfront.

The biggest difference in the amount of bass, obviously other than the actual woofer size is the box!! Currently have them in a 4 cubic foot box and THEY SLAMMMM!

PLEASE do youself a favor and ditch the stock deck or put an EQ, I REALLY LOVE what the first response did; installing an EQ where the tray on top of the deck is. Looks clean.

But I'm running a Pioneer DEH-80PRS. This is an AMAZING headunit. With 15 band EQ and you can equalize each side separately, well worth the money. But you will notice a significant difference in sound quality but installing an EQ or Good aftermarket deck.

I too would recommend replacing the stock speakers. Thats the first thing i did. I installed Polk DB components in the front and back, so each door has its own tweet and boy do they SCREAM! Sounds great. They are powered by a Rockford Fosgate T400-4.

After going through so many amps and speakers, I will forever ONLY buy Rockford, JL, or Zapco amps. Just my personal preference, you really do get what you pay for.

Oh and any future installs for anyone PLEASE PLEASE CHECK OUT Knukonceptz!! BEST WIRE for the LOWEST price!! GREAT RCAs, GREAT power wire and speaker wires. I only use Knukonceptz for my installs and its easy on the wallet. Check em out.

Skirmich

You seem to be running a Gain Wall Tony... You see GAIN Multiplies the Voltage obtained at your LOC some AMPs dont really like Low-Level inputs above 5V (The JX is one of Those with only 4V RMS) so did you see how much Low-Level RMS puts out your LOC?? If its 7V youll be running that Gain Wall Frequently....

If its lower than 4V then your gain is just too high.. I recommend you to Set your gain with a Volt-e-Meter to the JL SPECS! I put together some Info of your AMP and the Correct AC Voltage Target GAIN:



For the W6 your Looking at the 2 OHM Target of 31.6!!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Im SO GLAD i got the custom ported box. Hits WAY HARDER. As for the sub cutting off it only did it once today, i think the amp is getting too hot cause everytime i get out and touch it its burning. Prob keeps going into protection mode.

Skirmich

You need to Set your Gain Rights...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Well when we tested the new box the dude said my gains were off so he set them for me.. Unless he did it wrong also... LOL

I looked at my LOC and it said "Fixed Output line out converter" i think it said 10v or somin

Skirmich

The Loc Needs to be feeding less than 4V to the JX AMP or else the gains cannot be set right without a Volt-E-Meter its not just trying to find the "Sweet Spot" if you Adjust it with a Volt-E-Meter you will be IN the Sweet Spot and avoid any Heat Issues.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

So you're saying i need to go spend even more money and buy a new LOC/Voltmeter?

Skirmich

Nope you need a trusty good old Volt-E-Meter! If you have an Overvoltage RMS Feed you just Adjust your gains to Fit it..
The Stock Position for the Gain is at the Middle but thats for -4V Feed if you have over 4V RMS then its just too high for the AMP: Need to Adjust Accordingly.


Ex:
Your AMP Multiplies X RMS feed to the SUB End Voltage.
Your amp can Only Multiply less than 4V to your Sub.
Your Amp is getting OVER 4V = Your AMP is Working Overtime Multiplying more That it was built For.
(This is RAW not Exact by any Means but you get the Idea)

I Seriously doubt your LOC is Feeding that Much but since you dont Really Know the Exact End Voltage I can only Assume...
You need a Volt-E-Meter ANY Type or Kind even 10bucks cheapo will do..

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Im going to harbor freight in the morning so ill see what i can find volt meter wise. You're gonna have to guide me step by step through this LOL.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Bought a cheap multimeter like you told me to. 10$ at harbor freight. Now what should i do..?

Skirmich

Youll need "79hz Sine Wave"
Which can be found Here: http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
Then just put in an iPod or CD RW If you Have one (Since you Have the OEM HU)

Step by Step:
0.- Disconnect your SUB from AMP.

1.- Put your iPod with no EQ at All and set an Infinite Loop Play for the Sine Wave Clip. If its a CD do the same at the HU.

2.- Put the OEM HU at 0 BASS and TREBLE, FADE at 0, SIDES at 0..

3.- If you Have a Speaker AMP you need to Disable it, Just unplug Main Power or Ground (If Not this Get Complicated)
Since you have to Set your HU at 3/4 of the Volume Knob your speakers will not be able to handle the 79hz Wave
Soo You know where Im getting? You need to Unplug your 4 Speakers Manually at the Doors.

4.- Play the Sine Wave and put the HU at 3/4 Volume leave it like that and go to the trunk obviously with no Speakers or Sub you will not be able to hear Anything dont worry...

5.- Set your AMP at 80hz and no bass boost, Gain at the Middle.

6.- Most cheap Volt-e-meters cant Show Digits of less than 200. AC Voltage set it at that...

7.- Connect your Volt-e-meter at the AMP Sub Out if should give you a Reading when the Sine Wave is Playing!!

8.- Move your Gain until you get around 31v If your planning on using Bass Boost then set it at less than 30v depending on how much Boost you want, You can Move the Boost at the same time and it will change the Reading (Adjust both until you get the desired 31v)

9.- Back down the Volume at the HU and Put a Normal Song on the iPod, connect your sub and Test.

10.- If everything is Alright then you have Succesfully Adjusted your Gain at JL AUDIO Specs.
Which then Should give you the Maximum db Signal-to-Noise Ratio and the Best Experience with Basically all Types of Music.

11.- If you cannot get your AMP to Show 31.5v Even with Gain at the Minimum then your AMP is Unable to handle the Voltage Feed a Different LOC is Needed with Less RMS Feed.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I think i can do all that but the speakers. I dont have time to take all 4 door panels out and unplug the speakers. Also you mentioned 79hrtz, i see most people use 60?

Skirmich

Nope if you go to Volume Knob at 3/4 with that thing playing you will most likely damage the Speakers...
Also the Sine Wave used is for the AMP Setting you will use all the time to make a Perfect Signal-Noise-Ratio if your going to use 60hz on the AMP then use a 60hz Sine Wave... If your going to use 80hz use 79hz Sine Wave and Etc...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Ok ill use 79 then but about the speakers.. what do i do lol. My work schedule doesnt allow me to take out every door panel and unplug the speakers.

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

revive old thread:

nice setups yous have. so i got tired of my gains on my vocals being halfway. heres my dilemma. i have a ground loop -__- (engine noise) i figure maybe its my ground. where did all you guys put your ground? i have mine behind the hook on the left of the trunk. no idea what that hook is for .

fsttyms1

Find a good bolt to remove (one of mine is a bolt for the trunk latch, another is a bolt for one of the cross bars that stiffen the rear tower/seat back) and make sure there is bare metal for the contact to touch. Also what gauge ground wire are you using? The ground is more important than the power.