tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Ok just finished everything except for the LOC, power wire came in today but LOC did not. Let me tell you.. the power wire was a BITCH to install LOL. In the end everything is in place and ready to go. Went to test it out using my RCA to 3.5mm aux cord and put it to my phone's highest volume. Shit was moving everything around in my car LOL, what you said was true though. Stepped outside to see if anything and the trunk was rattling just a little bit but not enough to notice i had a 12" in my car. BUT inside the car was pretty damn crazy.

2 Problems im not sure what to do about.

1. Digital Volt Meter stays on even when car is off and locked. Is that supposed to happen?

2. After i went out to test the sub i opened the trunk and smelled a faint hint of something stinking. When i got my power cord in today it smelled weird and it was the same smell in the trunk but like a little burnt. Idk how to explain it.

Skirmich

Yes the Volt-E-Meter will remain on but since its made from LED its power draw is so little you wont have to worry about it...

hahaha Told ya the W6 its a Sleeper! Dont sound that Loud outside but its CRAAAAZZZYYYY on the Inside! Once you go Ported you will hear some Bass on the outside!

About the smell perhaps its the AMP getting warm and making smells from the inside protection grease, if you dont pop a fuse or see fire your good to go XD


WAIT! Did I see your Distribution block with 1 x 0AWG in and 1 x 0AWG out???? Dude your supposed to use the 4AWG exits or your not fused at all!!!

The other 2 x 0AWG Exits are for another set of Distribution blocks or Batterys not to be used as MAIN!!! You must use the 2 x 4AWG to be FUSED PROTECTED!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Should i be worried and disconnect everything right now or can i leave it? I didnt know that! Now i have to order even more wire? -___-

Cant i use the 0gauge wire but cut the copper down enough till it fits into the the 4 gauge port? Thats kinda what i did with the amp and distribution block since the 0 gauge was too big.

Skirmich

If you have Negative 4 AWG Spare you can use it!
Yup you can use a Trimmed down 0AWG just make sure to use the FUSED output of the Distribution Block!
ROFL I dont even know how the heck you made 0AWG fit the Main Power on the JX hahaha... But yes you should fix it ASAP:

You must understand the JX doesnt have any Inside fuses so in Case of a RARE Short it will catch on fire! the 300A on your Main 0AWG wont blow for such a little Short hence the 50A Fuses on the Dist Block.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

LOL i just cut it down from all sides and twisted them together, at least it worked! Im glad you're still up and responded or else something bad could've happened. I dont have spare 4 gauge ground wire but i do have about 8ft of power wire left LOL i prob ordered too much.

Anyways what should the nobs be set to? The freq and bass boost?

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Here's how she sits now!

Skirmich

Your Set!!!

Now I would start with a 80hz Cutoff and work my way around it.. Also never use the Bass Boost after set your gains! the bast Boost basically is a Little Gain for the Gain! Dont know if I make Sense.

Ex: My SLASH is set to a Gain of 32v but if I use the Bass Boost cranked all the way to +18 The final Gain Voltage sits at around 39v heavily distorting the sound. So I back up a few Volts on the Gain at Around 27v dead +Around 7-10 Set in the Bass Boost allows me to stay in the 32V sweet Spot! So I have full Power with alot of Punch without distorting even at 30 Clicks on Volume! Thats pretty loud!

You should use a Volt-e-meter to set your gain to the JL Spec and Work the bass boost from there.
From seeing you Bass Boost seems you havent set your gains Right! Always set the Gains at 0db Bass Boost!!!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Actually that was the previous owners setup. Looked like he knew what he was talking about so i left it. So freq at 80 and bass at 0?

Skirmich

That much Bass Boost? is almost Maxed! Remember Gains are Set due to Setup! If he had AMPd Speakers he could set the Gains to suit the Gains of the Speakers AMP.

I Believe JL Stock settings sets the gain at the middle and Bass Boost to 0db.
Also Bass Boost is also Affected by the Sub Used and Box! So whatever the sets he had doesnt really need to be perfect for you (In Almost all Cases).

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

So basically i should just keep the bass boost under 10 realistically? Try to keep the freq around 80-90? Mind taking a pic of your settings?

Skirmich

My settings would not work with yours since My SLASH has alot more of parameters to Adjust and Also having the Ported Box makes it different.

Also I have my Bass Boost Knob which I always set with different Music.


Adjusting with your Hearing is a Good Excersize which you basically want is a Deep Punch at lower FQs with still useable Volume perfect for the W6. So the General starting point is 80hz LPF Cutoff + 0db Bass Boost! why 0db? bass boost is nothing more than a Boost to the Gain so you must setting the Boost to suit different music! Rap or Hip-hop uses alot of BASS so if you set your Bass Boost to Ex: 10 to suit Heavy Metal it will be just too Much for Rap! It will keep pounding too hard! Thats why finding a SET Bass boost is difficult! i recommend you not to adjust it until you can use the Remote Bass Boost!!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I want a bass knob but i dont see spending 30 dollars on a JL one lol, the cheap ones look ugly to me. Ill most likely keep the bass boost at 0 now and the freq at prob 80-85..

Skirmich

Hehehe that bass boost costed me 5 bucks on ebay! Any bass boost will work you dont have to cash up for the Hilariously Expensive JL One... Just make sure is for Adjusting BASS not Gain which uses different ways of connecting trough the Telephone Line.

This is how it actually looks behind the oem Cover:

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

My cover is already taken up by a switch. Cant say what that switch does though LOL

J0rg3

I have 2 1200 watts 12" MTX Terminator subs with a RF amp and it sounds really good. I used a LOC to get rca signal it was connected to the bose sub I believe which at the end I had 3 subs if you count the bose one but about 2 weeks ago I put a nav/dvd screen on my car and now it sounds way better(louder) and bose sub no longer works.

As I was reading thru the thread I saw one comment said that it was bad to run the rca in the same side as the power wire, why is that? When I installed the screen I had to run the rca to the HU and I placed it in the same side as the power wire.... did I make a horrible mistake?

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

RCA = low voltage
Speaker/power wire = high voltage

basic physics. when running parallel, the high voltage wire will cause interference in the low voltage wire and you will hear static or whine. well, the magnetic fields interfere with each other. the only way to have a high and low voltage wire together is to run them perpendicular.

basically, don't run your 12V wires next to you low voltage RCA cables.

Skirmich

Yup I ran All My Power trough the Driver Side (Main and Speakers) and RCA trough the Passenger Side.. its a Little more hassle but worth it! Basic 1-0-1 Avoiding Static and Alternator whine Solver.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

Here is how i ran mine...a little late but for future reference

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

So i thought of a cooling solution. More of a fanless cooling solution. Since we know the port on the box pushes out air do you think i can put my amp against the back seat and put the port behind the amp? SO when the sub is playing its pushing the air against the amp thus moving the hot air away.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

That might work. Two things though.

1, as you have the the bass going the magnet, coils in the speaker heat up so the air will.get a little hotter as the time passes.

2, if you put the amp too close to the opening your blocking it, the point of a bandpass/ported box is the sound does come from the port, along with the free flowing air...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

No im not gonna have it up close, at least 3 inches away should be good.

Skirmich

Dude really that JX is not going to thermal any time soon... Have you seen the Heatsink closely? Most of the weight of the JX is becouse of the Heatsink which is the ENTIRE Aluminium Case! In all my time using my JX Speaker AMP I have never been able to go to thermal and Im talking with almost 115°F outside with No Fans or any other means of ventilation on the trunk with Proper Volume....

Also you should really REALLY cancel that Port..
2 Words: "Over-Excursion" is No.2 Killer of Subs and on that +50hz tuned box you can ran into it! It would kill me to know that W6 died from over-excursion... The W6 is made very well and its coil can handle alot of Heat so going Sealed is not a concern over Heat!

Basically you can Run the W6 on that box if you want to but You should be very Careful not to Blast the Volume/High Gain or your W6 will bottom out easily on that box once it has bottom out the coil basically sits still for over a second and the Coil starts to overheat from no ventilation = Die Soon...


To "dreem1er" Thats a very difficult way to get you Main power... Why you didnt use the OEM Hole??
That Solobaric L7 is awesome It was my first choice but then I decided to go SQL and Not worry too much about SPL....
Whats with the A/B AMP??? You should CLASS D THAT MONSTER!!!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Im getting my custom box made this week, hes already started on it. Should be done before friday so my current box wont be used anymore. Im not currently using my sub anyways, my LOC STILL hasnt came in yet .

Skirmich

Ohh Forgot about that hahaha I was given for granted you was using it becouse you had it all Installed XD.. Its a Shame you are not using an Aftermarket HU.. The OEM HU will not make that thing shine with the Crazy OEM LPF Cutoff on the Speakers...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Ill upgrade to a nice in dash screen eventually. Ill be using my phone through aux to play music also. I really dont wanna spend anpre money audio wise. I still need to finish my lipkit , get new wheels and other various things.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

my amp is a class d, 800 Watts how i have it wired right now, 1600 if i change it back to how i had it before. With that box...i got it for $40 leather wrapped, got it from a guy that had 2 L7 separate boxes in a tahoe...as i was saying with that box i rewired the speaker to drop the amp to 800 because it was nasty at 1600
..

The hardiest part of running the cable the way i did was passing through the fender, which feeding it and fishing it out was maybe 2-3 minutes. It was very easy, the hardiest/longest part of running it was passing all the cable through the gourmet.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Aw shit stash spot stash spot!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

If it was a stash spot switch i wouldnt have the switch in plain sight. Good try though! Something else.

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Hidden in plain sight!!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

He sent me a progress picture on my box.

25" Wide 14" Tall 12" Deep



Idk if its me but this doesnt look like a deep enough box? Put everything in RE Box Calculator and it came out to 36hrtz. Now if it was 14 Deep it would come out to 32hrtz. Idk whats going on

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

Air volume is measured.from the inside...you have to remove the thickness of the wood/mdf to get the right numbers

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

Also check the speaker manual, it will have max/min numbers for boxes ported/sealed try to stay somewhere in the middle of those numbers and your golden.



Not sure if its been covered but is that a dual voice coil speaker? If so be very careful when wiring it, you can melt the speaker and blow the amp...i also learned the hard way...don't drink excessively and wire your system i got lucky my shop has been a kicker dealer for more than 20 years i just paid shipping and kicker sent out a new speaker.

jliu6789

it's very close to the recommended size. what kind of wood ? you are not using MDB.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I talked to him some more and its the right specs. I didnt calculate the port opening and second port length. All is good! Now i just want the box already so i can see how good it is.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I FINALLY got my LOC in, install went great and sub hits nice! Now i just need the new ported box! Oh i also need a remote bass knob also lol.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Well.. good things dont last forever. I was on my way to work and out of no where the bass cut off completely, i turned off the radio and turned it back on, still didnt work until i changed a few songs then bass came back. Couple mins later it happened again, pulled into bestbuy and touched the amp and it was hot as hell. Makes me not want a sub since im running into all these problems. The money i used could've went to some other stuff.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

That really sucks. It's always risky buying used amps. Do you know why the previous owner was selling?

If you keep having issues with the JL, I would just sell it and buy a new (cheaper) amp. Hifonics Brutus line is a great amp. Powers my 2 10s sufficiently.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

He busted his sub in his trunk, tools hit the sub and ripped it. Seemed legit since he gave me the actual sub/box for free. If im going to sell anything ima sell everything. Make some of my money back and put it towards something else.

Skirmich

The JX is thermalling? Check the little Red LED on it once the Sub Cuts-out... How did you Set your gains? Too much Gain can and will stress the AMP.. Thats why I dont usually use A/B Amps for Subs..

I would check those before calling it DOA... If the AMP is Thermalling A Fan would do the Trick.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

If its going into protect be careful. Turn all levels completely down, and see if it takes longer. Double check all connections, a bad connection builds resistance and heat. When it goes into protect check the temp on amp and cables, also check that the amp has the right fuse, should be one or 2 on the amp itself simple basic car fuse