dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

ive had tweeters for about as long as I've had the sub, maybe thats why it doesn't bother me at all



I have thought about swapping the door speakers recently, but i have tried 4 different door speakers and didn't like any of them

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Picked up my W6 tonight! Picking up the JL JX500/1 Amp tmmrw morning.

Will 16AWG wire work for the inline wire? I have like a 50ft spool thats brand new, wanna put it to use cause im too lazy to return it, bought it for a previous project.

Ok so this is what ima order tonight so itll get here before friday.

Someone look over the list and make sure its ok before i order!

25 Ft 1/0 Gauge Positive Wire http://www.ebay.com/itm/BULLZ-AUDIO-...&forceRpt=true

5 Ft 4 Gauge Ground Wire http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Gauge-BLAC...a9f3ca&vxp=mtr

Distribution Block with a digital display http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSCORPION-DI...item3f1c968ef3

Line out converter http://www.ebay.com/itm/390470404058...84.m1438.l2649

5 Ft 8 Gauge Speaker Wire Positive http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170893853013

5 Ft 8 Gauge Speaker Wire Negative http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=180949295611

3 Ft 2 Male to Male RCA Cables *2 because i believe these are single RCA cables, need one for positive and negative* http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Grand total for everything will be around 90 shipped.

Sleeper3.2

i like how ur treat ur sub saftey always first buckle up

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Thanks ahah.

Ok i did make a mistake, always look online before purchase. Basically i found a BNIB JL JX500/1 on ebay for 180 with free shipping but i want it here before friday so thats an extra 35. Total would be 215 BNIB vs the 215 USED one i was gonna buy tmmrw morning. If he cant do 180 for the amp then ill just order it online

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-JL-AUDIO...3722aeac3#shId

Skirmich

hahahaha thats my Speaker AMP big Brother! the JX series are Very well Built and Powerful... I have actually opened my JX and I can say the Switching is not that high End but it is better than Cheap Brands... I paid full MSRP on it tough @ Crutchfield.




I tought you were going for the SLASH 500/1 this is the little bastard powering my W6:


1 thing you left out of your List is the Actual FUSE HOLDER for the Main Power at the Battery! I recommend an ANL Fuse Holder! Also Called Waffle Fuses.

This is the ANL Fuse Holder I used for the Big3:


Ah little note on BULLZ AUDIO is not True AWG so the insulator might be Bigger than with true AWG Wire...


Are you going for Ported, Sealed or Infinite Baffle for that W6?
I started with Sealed (Since I didnt want to Sacrifice Space at the time) and I can say it will shake the living crap out of the Rear Deck and Rear View mirror.... Ported becomes INSANE with trunk shaking on demand Actually the Rear Spoiler WILL FLEX.

Skirmich

We almost had the same Pic:


And this is the 1/0 I used for the Big3 and my Main now Discontinued:


"Stinger XPRT Oval Series"...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Nice, i thought it was the SLASH 500/1 too until i seen pics. Ill prob get the JX for now and upgrade later, seeing videos on youtube and the JX 500/1 with a W6 pounds pretty hard. Im going for a ported enclosure btw

As for the bullz audio issue, i dont think its that big of a deal. Im only trying to power 1 amp and 1 sub, if i were to power more then it'd be a big deal.

Just added an anl fuse to my order so i should be good!

What amperage do i get for the fuse though?

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Just gonna go order this. Trying to get everything shipped out asap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gold-ANL-Fus...639f97&vxp=mtr

Skirmich

You will need a 100A for Main ANL Fuse and 50A in the Dist Block for the Actual Amps.

Basically the main uses the Actual amount of Pull from the Amps ex:
2x 50A Amps = 100A Main and Etc. But you can go Higher on the Main since its ending in a Dist Block. just keep the ones in the Dist Block to Amp close to the actual rating from it.
All current JL Audio Amps asks for 50A Fuse (My JX and SLASH Included).

Ported? Nice an Excelent Starting point is by Going tru the JL Audio Spec Box! I Believe its tuned for 35hz which is Excellent for Almost any Kind of Music.


And the BULLZ Cable comment was becouse with that big fat ass Insulator it might be a Tight Fit trough the Firewall OEM Hole!! Might need a Little Trimming.

Skirmich

Didnt saw the link!
Dont worry about that 300A Included fuse. Since your getting a Fused Distribution Block your covered! Just make sure the Dist Block uses the 50A Fuse to Amps! The JX range dont have any On Board fuses so the only thing protecting your System are the Fuses on the Dist Block!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the reply just placed my order. HOPEFULLY everything gets here before saturday so i can install. Had to make a few changes to the order.

Speaker Wires
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170893853013...84.m1439.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180949295611...84.m1439.l2649

Ground
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271010793875...84.m1439.l2649

Ground Terminal
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260347191230...84.m1439.l2649

LOC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390470404058...84.m1439.l2649

ANL Fuse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230844243863...84.m1439.l2649

Digital Distribution Block
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271062568691...84.m1439.l2649

Positive
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230700242737...84.m1439.l2649

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Finally got the amp and a free custom box and busted 10w3 lol. I dont think it'd be smart to put the 12 in the sealed box.. LOL

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

http://www.jlaudio.com/galleries/Mob...1=Mobile+Audio

Heres mine, I did this about 10 years ago still sounds great. Since then I have moved the 12w7 to a sealed box.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

the links keep redirecting...


Did you order 8 gauge speaker wire? Seems a bit much a good 12 gauge should do fine.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Yea i should've ordered 12 but i wanted a tight fit so i ordered 8. Ill take pics of everything once they come in.

Skirmich

I also used 8 but only becouse I had Spare Monster cable from an Old Build... haha The 8 AWG was actually Used as the Main Power for the AMP XD

Sleeper3.2

i have to disagree with u right here and say wow, u dont know what amps can take or cannot take u think most amps wont accept anything more then 4 gauge.
wow i have had 4 diff amps in 4 diff cars all 0 gauge. i wouldnt even use an amp if it isnt 0 gauge cause hell y buy an amp that cant put out power

also the only amps that i have had that had 4 gauge where my 4 channel amps each 800 watts and those are for the doors if u want bass u need
2 channel 1000+ watt amp with one or 2 subs ur choice
i run 2 12's with 2000watts each

• Up to 500 watts RMS = 8 gauge
• 500 – 1000 watts RMS = 4 gauge
• 1000 – 1500 watts RMS = 2 gauge
• 1500 -2000 wats RMS = 0 gauge

if your going to have bass go with a amp that is 1000 watts and up use only 2 or 0 gauge cause your power will flow much better



it will cost u but its ok you have to Pay to Pay

Chevelle66

You should check out caraudio.com/forum and search around or post there.
Also http://www.bcae1.com/ is filled with tons of info.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Update, i did as much as i could before actually installing the whole system. Still waiting on my LOC and 0 gauge power wire to come in. Everything else came in already. Had to run all over town just to find a damn ported 12" box. First store i went to didnt have one, their sister store did so i ran do there, found out the box was broken so i left. Searched craigslist and found a new one for 30 bucks.

Shitload of pics LOL. the sub will be facing the rear seats, i dont want anything to puncture the sub with all the shit in my trunk.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

Nice, what was the total cost?



Also you may want to do something in the trunk to keep the speaker in place. either a piece of mdf cut to fit the trunk, or a cheaper fix is a small "L" bracket, one side into the box, the other into the cardboard trunk tray. Just be careful not to get close to the spare, i have a pin hole in my spare for not checking first

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Box - 30
Amp - 215
Sub - 200
Wires & misc - 100

535 total for everything, stayed under my budget of 600 max!

I am mad though, mail man came and no power wire or LOC. I'll prob be leaving neutral feedback.. their date for arrival to my house was before or on today. And still havent got anything. I was really anxious to get everything installed today also.

Yea i was gonna screw some L brackets down, i have no spare so no worries. I will be worried when i get a flat though cause i have no spare/jack/tools in my trunk LOL

Skirmich

Just a tip: Dont install the AMP with those long ass Bolts... The W6 will shake them out of the box easily.. If your eager to install the amp onto the Sub Box do it completely flush! The Heatsink is on top of the JL AMP so no heat issues with installing it that way... hahaha I dont know why but I feel excited your doing this XD I need to install more systems ASAP.....

And Another thing that BOX is way wayyyyyy Overtuned for the W6! That pre-made box is for cheap Subs and its tuned way over 50Hz... If I were you I would Cancel the Port and try to seal the box Just by looking the thing is almost at the exact specs for the Sealed Box it will sound 1000x Times better sealed than badly ported...

FYI: PORTED W6 BOX? Its about DOUBLE that Thing in Size....
This is the Recommended Box Size for Ported W6:

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Now your setup is nice, that box is just a temp box so i didnt mind putting out 30 dollars. I might go find a store or get my co worker to build me a custom box up to specs. 32-35htz i believe. Im gonna have my sub facing the seats though and have everything hidden.

Skirmich

I wish my Setup was that Clean I just have the Same Box but with no Fancy Covers on the Sides since Sometimes I need to carry stuff in the Trunk so I have it easily Removeable.

But My AMPs are on the Sides Facing Rear for Show.. If your doing a Complete Sealed System think about adding some Fans since the JX500/1 is Not a Class D AMP (As Opposed from the JX1000D) so it Might Get a Little warm with a Sealed setup Possibly even go Thermal...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Oh no i didnt mean build a wall to hide everything, although i would like that. Too much money spent already. A custom box is prob around 100-150 so im trying to look for someone to do that. Hidden as in the sub facing the seat so it just looks like a big ass box in my trunk lol. As for the JX500 getting hot thats why i didnt sit it flush against the box, left some air under. You said the heatsink is above but just wanna make sure and have air at the bottom also.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Well i spent the day "installing" the sub, ran the remote wire and ground and mounted the sub in the car. I cant install the power wire or LOC since i still dont have them . I noticed a problem though.. i looked under the driver side dash and i cant even find a gromet or hole i can route the power wire to! Any pics of where you guys routed yours? Much appreciated!

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

it's above and to the right of the gas pedal. i believe there was a picture in one of the DIY threads but the pic might be long gone now.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Is that it? I looked in the engine bay around that area and i dont see where it could possibly come out of.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

i think that's it. stick your finger in it and see where it takes you

Skirmich

Yep thats it! You should look on the Firewall Side you will see it beneath the Driver side Wiper area.. Just to the Left of Master Cyl, Its the same size and cut as the one inside the car its just a little hidden behind the GAS line that attach to chasis thats why its hard to spot it.

Grab a Flat Screwdriver and Carefully pry it open on both ends and you will have your access.

Skirmich

Pheww I found a Google PIC (This is what MOST of us USE):


Another dude Used this (This is Rare):

But I have no Experience using it.

jliu6789

the battery wiring in my 01 TL NBP was done as in your 2nd pic (see the red line in my pic). it was done by an audio pro shop (as you can they even wrapped the gauge wire). then you can go from left sill all the way to the trunk through the openning of back seat.

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

The blue one is where that gromet is? The one i took a pic of? Hopefully the power wire and LOC wire comes in tmmrw so i can try it out.

I also wanna see the look on my neighbors face when i blast my sub LOL.

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

I'll post a pic of where i have mine, its through the fender, in through the door gourmet

Skirmich

With that box I bet it would not be that Loud inside the car with that Box: I know it by Experience XD
Remember the W6 is an SQL Sub sooo If might get loud but Inside the Car (With Sealed Box).... Not that far from it...

With the Proper (Spec Ported Box) You will be turning Alarms Off every once in a While but STILL Not that loud like "Dude I can hear you 2 Blocks Away" or that kind of stuff.

I would leave the W7 to do that kind of Stuff hehehe But I hear from a Member that the W7 screwed his TL Suspension! That Heavy it is...

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

I found a local guy that can build boxes. He said price would be 125 for properly spec'd box @ 32hrtz and whatnot. Carpeted also so i guess thats a good deal.

Skirmich

Its a good deal! With the proper Ported Box youll see your rear window flex XD

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

Just hope it doesnt shatter lol. Heres how the box will most likely look. I love the 45's look, most people charge extra but hes including them!



Hopefully its small enough to where i can still put the sub dead center of the cabin/trunk seat port area.

Skirmich

That looks like a well Built Box! I also got a friend do it for me but it all set me 70 Bucks! Just for the Materials! Labor free of Charge and Carpeted too!

tOny3

iTrader: (9)

He made a deal with me since my friend wanted a box also. 175 for 2 ported boxes, carpeted also!