is it possible to shut off 2 cyclinders and use only 4? and how would that be accomplished. i know a lot of engines out there that are already built with that feature can do it, but can we do it manually to our engines?

 

i dont think anyone has tried it

cut the wires to the spark plugs? ripe out teh fuel injectors?

just kidding, dont do that.


im sure you can accomplish this, but its going to require some custom work a lot. also it depends how much your willing to spend. are you trying to increase fuel economy?

 

but your better swapping out an engine that has cylinder deactivation.

 

yea, and probably every wire going to and from the engine.
short answer: probably not worth it

 

Why in gods name would you want to do that?

 

good luck!

 

even if you pulled the spark plug wires, i think the injectors would still be pumping fuel in, so that would suck
even if you stopped that, the car is not designed for cylinder deactivation so it'd run very very poorly.
it's not worth it to even try IMO
for better mileage, be gentle on the gas (let it shift around 2500rpm), keep the tires pumped up, let off the gas if you know you have to stop, etc.

 

i dont think he wants to permanently make it 4cyl, but to be able to have it kick down to 4cyl while cruising and such like the newer cars/trucks do automatically to save fuel..

entirely too much work for a minimal change in gas mileage i would think.. dont even bother..

 

Our cars already get excellent fuel economy if well taken care of. I get 24 city 33-35 highway.

Put in iridium plugs, seafoam (search it), minimize weight (wheels included), go easier on the pedal, cruise up to lights, check egr port for blockage, etc etc...

If you want 4 cylinder fuel economy then buy a gutless four banger or a shitty Chrysler.

 

Our cars already get excellent fuel economy if well taken care of. I get 24 city 33-35 highway.

Put in iridium plugs, seafoam (search it), minimize weight (wheels included), go easier on the pedal, cruise up to lights, check egr port for blockage, etc etc...

If you want 4 cylinder fuel economy then buy a gutless four banger or a shitty Chrysler.

 

 

No, I understand the concept, but we dont get bad mileage to begin with.

 

Trade your car in and buy something with cylinder deactivation.

 

+1 it aint worth going through the trouble.

 

Probably wayyy to much work to get the valves to stay closed.

 

^^^ minus the fact of needing the ecu from a car with the cylinder deactivation (otherwise will have misfire codes, or bad injecter codes and so on), the heads would also have to be swapped with one's from a engine having cylinder deactivation on it from the factory (but a set of custom cams might do it though, but not sure)


how ever you look at it still going to be very $$$ to make said feature work in our cars (let alone that $$$ saved by not doing it, sure buys a shit load of gas)

 

for the few hundred you may save in gas- it would cost thousands to do
Or buy a newer acura with the feature! spend thousands either way

 

my car gets 21mpg hwy.

im gonna need to open up the engine and see what is wrong. any tips? i think ihave debris inside the cyclinders.

 

i would think debris in the cylinders would make a lot of noise and cause significant power issues/destroy the uquickly. 21mpg hwy is pretty damn bad though, how old are your spark plugs/air filter etc?

 

sell the tl, buy a 4cyl car and add some nitrous so u still get the punch u want but great fuel economy.

 

lol what would make you think that? Have you tried seafoam? Spark plugs?

 

Find the problem. Have you done plugs, seafoam, ect??? If you are getting only 21 on the hwy you have problems. Have you ever done a compression test? do you burn oil?

 

Debris?? Why in the world do you think that? Is it making strange noises?

 

EGR ports may be plugged
If anything solid was in the piston, like a spark plug tip--you would hear realllllly bad noises and poor running,, and not long before it stops running

If excess carbon and crud buildup causing predetonation- that sounds like something in the cylinder- seafoam that thing!
Pull a plug or 2 for a reading of whats going on- how many miles on the plugs?

Any rotten egg smell? thats cat plugging (seafoam will help clean cat too!)

 

been running on 87 octane?

 

-91 octane only
-change and clean k/n air filter constantly
-have used seafoam all around a couple times
-use fuel injector cleaners every 3 months

-spark plugs havent been changed
-nothing in engine has been cleaned.


i was looking to do the intake manifold clean this week, thats all i know for added mpg

so, change plugs and clean EGR? any other engine cleaning i can do?

 

for further details...since ive owned it at 70K, ive never changed the plugs, its now at 100K

btw, do all new plugs give around the same mpg?

 

Stick with the stock NGK's. New plugs should boost gas mileage.

 

NGK Iridium IX is what you want from local parts store- 8 bucks each

Seafoam the intake manifold before anything else- that gets crud off the pistons and valve seal edge, improves performance and mileage when the spark has a clean work area
Use a full can of seafoam (deep creep aerosol for intake is easier) and 1 16oz can of seafoam in 1/2 tank-8 gallons of gas to clean the injectors and more on everything else

when ready for oil change add 1/2 can to warm oil (engine off) then drive and change oil and filter
Optional- install new filter -add foam- drive 150 miles and change everything- will do a great job of desludging the internal oil passages

a week after the gas and manifold, install the new spark plugs
A month after that repeat seafoam manifold and gas then good for a year

 

thanks! will get right on it


btw, how do i seafoam the intake manifold? ive seen instructions 3 ways (tank, engine, vac line) or is the vac line the same one ur talkina bout? p.s. ive done all that twice before

but now, im gonna do that with the oil change and spark plugs and go from there. thanks!

 

ya the vac line is the intake manifold method

 

the vac PORT at the TB/top of manifold is the one to use,has the hose with a squeeze clamp you can open with your fingers, and hose the size of a finger
Only one like it anywhere near there

Error in early diy was using a vac line on the side of the engine compartment that did not feed all 6!

Now we use the right one where its got 20 inches of vac sucking seafoam into a tornado if using jar method with hose an inch above liquid
Or Deep Creep aerosol makes a tornado from an inch away

You can spray deep creep into the TB throat with rubber snout to airbox removed- clean the air plate and lubes its hinge pivot as well as feeds all 6 and gets a little area there that may otherwise be missed
The warm up before foam and blowout drive after are what make it work
give the car a few days after the vac port method before plug change

oil- 1/2 can in 5 qts- 10 minute warmup drive- shut off engine- add foam- drive 30 minutes minimum, change oil and filter while warm or sludge reforms

 

kinda confused as to which line u are talking about. do you think u can point it for me?

http://img176.imageshack.us/i/img2567df7.jpg/

 

one of the one's next to that big line going to the brake booster (towards the back of the manifold)

 

Most of us use the MASTER VAC PORT -(not the brake booster line-its harder to reach)

On that pic, its the hose that makes a U turn- from front side of TB it makes a left U turn and goes to a pipe
Remove that hose from the TB- it will have a squeeze clamp, and when hose removed there is a metal nipple coming out of the TB- apply seafoam thru there
Now you are at the right place!

Warm engine 10-15 minute drive, some 4000 rpm helps- HEAT makes seafoam activate, I spoke with a seafoam rep yesterday to get new info
Then stop engine and remove hose, use Deep Creep aerosol version of seafoam to spray into nipple- it will make tornados if you hold straw an inch away from nipple
If using a piece of tubing from the nipple into a container with liquid seafoam in it- be VERY VERY careful to not stick the hose into the fluid or it will suck it so fast (a few seconds and suck in the can!)
it may stall the engine or backsplash fluid all over you- totally uncool according to those it happened to

You can damage the engine if you ignore these precautions- follow the directions and you get excellent results

Keep hose an inch away from fluid level- sip sip- let engine stabilize, sip sip, stabilize
Engine will labor as seafoam is added to system
2000 rpm while adding seafoam really gets some action and likely smoke from exhaust
I do both just above idle and then 2000, idle then 2000
1/2 -3/4 can is usually enough for intake method-engine will be barely running,
Stop engine -wait 15 minutes (minimum 10) (put vac hose and clamp back on!)
wash hands!

Start engine and let idle stabilize DO NOT REV wildly trying to make smoke
add throttle gently till engine sounds stabile and will rev to 2000.
now drive in low gear at 2000, smoke trail will follow you, engine will sound better, then rev to 4000 easily
Hop on freeway and 4000 rpm- use lower gears to stay within speed limit

again HEAT is what makes this stuff work, so the engine and exhaust will be the right temps with 4000 rpm for 5-10 minutes
Do some 4000 to 5000 rpm runs to get vtec parts involved

Make sure you clean the main TB air plate -remove rubber tube from air filter to TB- spray the round plate on both sides and edges- wipe up runoff, start engine and do rest of TB cleaning thru vac port

add 1 can to 1/2 tank gas before anything -so its in there working during the high revving time- most effective

Use Deep Creep or wd40 to lube the throttle return spring where the cables attach to TB on rear side of it

 

Yet another seafoam thread-

 

Isn't there a j series with this option?

 

so do i use deep creep or seafoam for this "u turn" hose?

 

Seafoam makes deap creep. its just in an aerosol can

 

Yes.