Hey guys,

So i have an issue that has been bugging me day in and day out. A couple weeks ago, my car threw a CEL. I got the codes read, and it was misfire and random misfires. I replaced all plugs with NGK iridium ix's and reset code. Stayed off for a few days, and came back, so i replaced all the coil packs, all oem. same thing, stayed off for a few days, and came back, but this time it came back with a P1399 EGR. So I took apart the manifold and cleaned everything out with 4 bottles of throttle body cleaner, including ALL egr ports, and it still came back!! So I essentially replaced the EGR, but non-oem, and same thing again. Now I am running out of options. My question is I have heard / read that there is an upgraded EGR kit to open it up more and solve this problem, and has anyone heard the same or had any experience with it? Also, any input or suggestions on what I should do next is greatly appreciated, and I apologize if this is a repost, but i searched and couldnt seem to find anyone that has the same issues exactly as me. My car is an 03 tl-s with ~130k with exhaust, intake, and lightweight pulley set. all other parts are stock / original from car. once again guys, thanks in advance!!!

 

did you gap the spark plugs correctly? also, tightening/torquing the spark plug too much will cause it to function improperly.

 

and check the intake manifold gasket.. i had mine flipped the other way around.. someone installed it incorrectly.. and as soon as that was flipped to the correct side.. problem fixed. i had the same exact symptoms when i first got my '03 tl-s. changed spark plugs, ignition coils, and cleaned egr but still CEL.

 

I don't think the correct spark plugs need to be gapped. There's a thread on the CL side about it.

 

Make sure the top im cover gasket is on correct. (but seeing this happened before you did the work i doubt it that) As for the EGR kit, that was ONLY for the 99. Did you clean out the tube that goes from the EGR to the IM?

Next thing i would check is the fuel injectors. They will cause the misfire. Does the code that comes up start out with a specific cyl and not just the all cyl misfire?

 

Get mud guards....aint throw'n a code since...

 

?

 

 

lol thanks for the response. could someone post a pic of how the gaskets should be set? im almost positive that put them back correctly, but no harm in checking. as far as codes, its all cyclinder, then random misfire, then the egr code. as far as the tube fsttyms1, i didnt see one, could you be more specific? and mr.maker, i have mud guards...still CEL lol

 

I had the same issue and it turned out my im gasket was torn. Replaced it and no more cel. On top of changing plugs cleaning egr and testing coils, I also replaced my cat.

 

I'm gonna check my gaskets again. Then O2 sensors, then just replace cat lol. What is the proper testing procedure for O2 sensors?

 

there is an electrical spec for them

the uppermost gasket under the manifold cover can be installed flipped= upside down
when that happens a critical port is blocked by the gasket- on the upper cover side
verify correct by placing gasket on top piece--then install

are you using the clock fuse to reset ecu, or a code scanner--use the fuse to fully reset the system

ngk used in USA wont need gap set--Canada cars use diff setting!

 

now to be more specific, which gaskets did you guys have issues with, was the plate on the manifold up top, or between the manifold and the block?

 

CEL Code 1399 is described as a temporary code in the Acura service manual. It points to replacing sparks plugs in the testing/repair procedures. I'm wondering if you received the wrong heat range plugs ?

Sounds like changing the plugs is the culprit.

 

You're also right at the mileage where tight exhaust valves start causing misfires. Have they ever been adjusted?

 

You need #6 plugs, IZFR6K11, for tl-s, not #5.

I don't have mudguards, but there is no code.

 

valves have never been adjusted. was looking into getting that done at the same time as my timing belt maintenence. and i will also double check to make sure i have the right plugs. thanks guy, i will keep you guys updated. really appreciate it.

 

ok so i replaced the plugs with OEM ones straight from Acura. Car ran great for about 3 days, then bam, check engine light. Same thing. I am now in the process of replacing throttle body, upper, and lower intake manifold gaskets. my other question is, i have the the AEM pulley set, which i believe is underdrive. Could this cause an issue with triggering lights? I know lower voltage and what not can trigger sensors, but this is always the same ones. thanks for the help guys, keep the suggestions coming.

 

before you invest in parts that are not needed: have you reset the ecu??
remove CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute

otherwise it carries old codes and thought process of bad parts

your pulley is not at fault-- unless the battery is shot- have you gotten that tested? free at parts stores

plugs from acura are the same exact ngk you buy at parts store,,except way more $ at acura

 

when you cleaned the egr system-
you removed the intake manifold from the car and ran a wire coat hanger all the way thru the length of the manifold--not just poked at the clogged ports?
and all the ports and opening under egr valve got cleaned out too?

 

01tl4tl, i did use the CLOCK trick and also erased it with a scanner. the coat hanger, i did not, i just used a brush and some serious amounts of throttle body cleaner. i am replacing the gaskets because i never have before and they have been removed from the car multiple times. if someone could post a picture of how the gakset for the intake plate on the very top of the manifold should sit, that would be great, because after doing it i completely forgot the way it sits lol.

 

lay the gasket on the upper cover ,,not on the engine side
make sure all the holes are clear and lines up
flip it over to see which one of the cover ports gets covered when wrong

if you didnt run a hanger or wire rod of some kind THRU the manifold length,,
only poked at the holes and dribbled carb cleaner thru the main passage-
-there is likely a large clogging of carbon somewhere along that passage

 

3 cans carb cleaner is the average amount users report= needed to fully clean the system

 

Well Im 100% new to this car and really everything about it. I just sold a 98 yesterday and bought a 2002 today. Im excited about it! But this problem WDPTLS has seems to be a real PITA! I hope I dont get these types of problems.

 

thank 01tl4tl, i will try to do that tomorrow night when my new gaskets come in. tonight i will doing my 3x3 trans fluid drain. hopefully the hanger method along with new gaskets all around will bring this misfire issue to and end! but on the other hand, i appreciate all the help from everyone.

 

please elaborate? my ngks were pre-gapped to the right spec, but i only compared the specs to a u.s manual. how are the canadian cars different? i've been running them since september without a problem....

sorry for getting off topic a bit

 

those cars get their own healthcare by the govt.

 

another Canuk recenlty posted they had to regap,, slightly wider than usa spec
I had to guess it was canadian smog spec vs usa

 

ck your owner manual for exact spec, or underhood sticker should have plug specs

 

but no problem with running it under the us. spec though, right? not too concerned with smog, alberta has no laws for emissions.

ill check my owner's manual tonight.

 

I have no idea of the actual canada spec vs usa--ck your underhood sticker

 

could someone post a picture of the torqueing order of the intake manifold bolts? i forgot and the ones i found were not for the type-s manifold, they were for the old ones from 99-01. hopefully after this my issue will go away

 

its the same pattern
start from center and work your way out- opposite sides back and forth- equal out to the sides, meaning spread the load out from the center across the entire surface
Not tighten one end and then the other

then go back and recheck each bolt, as some may change
also recheck after 500 miles as heat cycles may loosen bolts and cause running problems

I do torque in 3 stages to bring it up gently and even
all hand tight, then ratchet held by its head tight (approx 10 pounds) and final torque 16--for this job

 

Here is the entire manual that was posted in a different thread:wink:

http://home.comcast.net/~amberlani01/ServiceManual.pdf

 

any insight on how i could test the injectors if they are functioning properly?

 

anybody?

 

well still having the issue....any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

I had a misfire that would come up every so often. Eventually I realized that the cause was the cheap gas (still used 93) by my parents house. I have not gas another misfire since I stopped getting gas from there. Good luck

 

Were there any checks on them outlined in the manual?

 

I have this same problem, after a complete cleaning of the intake manifold off the car, the code cleared and then came back on but only displaying a 1399. What finally solved your problem?