Just found out that my driver side rear toe adjustment is seized. Wonder if anyone has any ideas on how to break it free. Also I have no clue to which on nut I'm looking for as I'm just used to working on older honda suspension.

 

is the rear toe out of spec limits? if not leave it alone

lube the upper control arm bolts in the rear suspension- thats the adjustment area
You should be able to see threads next to the nuts same as the fronts

 

its most likely alrdy in spec, depending on how agressive ur aftermarket rims are (if any) i would just leave it until an alignment points it out

 

How did you find out it is seized? Did a shop tell you that trying to adjust it for you? If so id find another shop.

 

What are you talking about? The toe adjustment in the rear is a cam located on the inside pivot of the lower control arm.
I do agree; if it's not out of specs, leave it alone. Get a second opinion.

 

x2


and at a maxinum you will need a new control arm (might also be a couple of arms and bolts, depending on how the wheel end is attached exactly)(cause of the bushing having the bolt siezed in it) then a new adjustment bolt also

others saying to find a new shop, the shop may of just let him know that it was siezed and would have to pay some in order for them to loosen it up, so it can be adjusted, and depending on how truely siezed it may be, he might also need some parts to go along with it (once you start, kinda gotta finish the job)

and also i think the toe may also be out, cause other wise why were they trying to adjust it in the first place



also OP where do you live, the state is fine, just so we kinda know what type of winters you got, and potentually how siezed it may be


and as far as older honda suspensions, you still adjust it the same way as older ones, with the eccentric bolt, the suspension just has more arms on it

 

As to the find a new shop. If the shop told me that the bolt was seized and they couldnt do my alignment i wouldnt bring it back to them for it. I would find a shop that would loosen/break it off and get the parts needed to fix the issue.

 

must be one of those northern cars huh?
id lube the hell out of it and have at it with my super long breaker bar. carefully moving from left to right left to right. or should i say tighten and loosen tighten and loosen slowly. if you try to just loosen, be prepare to buy a new bolt and possibly a toe arm. yes it will break. i broke mine before i learned to be patient

 

The car is from b.c canada, They rear toe is in the spec they just wanted to dial it in perfect and noticed it was seized when they went to adjust it.
Ill deal with it when I install the new shocks and springs and in the meantime im just spraying everything with some pb blaster.
Thanks for the replys

 

trash--
please forgive me for getting the details off- upper vs lower arm

if you can find any rear control arm look for the adjuster and lube-PB the crud out of it
Heat- cold-prayer all have been used

I must have been hangin in gen3 too much and was thinking of their setup

 

if your adjuster is siezed--a possible car-wide problem exist due to location of owner

I would pull the wheels and especially brake rotors- they like to stick to the center hub and require sledgehammer to loosen
get them cleaned up and lubed with brake caliper grease so nothing is `permanent` in there~

 

oh, i can get it off, but as said a couple of parts might be required though (and even then he may have declined the work), but read below

yeah sometimes you get lucky with getting them out, but not always though

to hear that is where you are from, with all that rust (thank god i don't have to deal with that shit on a daily basis)
fair enough, and it sounds like it is a good shop with giving you the option to take care of it, or leave it as is (and that they tried to make it perfect); just know that you might have increased tire wear in the mean time due to it not being perfect
and if you do indeed get it out, i would still at least get a new bolt, so it is not coated in rust and such, and has the zinc coating back on there; then i would make sure to coat it in antisieze also, to help prevent this from ever happening again (and since it will have to be aligned again for that side, i would pull the other side out too and coat it in antisieze too)
then if you really want to be friendly and help them align it in the future, i would also pull apart the tie rods up front and coat those too (so you get all the factory adjustment points)

 

btw don't forget to do all the bolts removed when doing those shocks and such, especially the lower "whishbone" (the fork that goes around the axle) bolt up front, those like to sieze up on hondas also, then if you try to hammer on it at all, it bends that wishbone, then you gotta get a new one of them

so just remember antisieze is your friend especially if you plan on keeping the car for quite a while longer, when you gotta do any future work