Rotors are warped... Big Time. What to get?
07-31-2013, 10:19 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Rotors are warped... Big Time. What to get?
Alright so my '02 has never gotten new rotors or pads. The rotors are warped big time, getting off the highway when i put the brakes on the whole freaking cars shakes. So ive come to the conclusions of the cars needs new rotors and pads. What aftermarket rotors and pads would you guys recommended that still will work with my stock calipers?
07-31-2013, 10:26 PM
#2
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Alright so my '02 has never gotten new rotors or pads. The rotors are warped big time, getting off the highway when i put the brakes on the whole freaking cars shakes. So ive come to the conclusions of the cars needs new rotors and pads. What aftermarket rotors and pads would you guys recommended that still will work with my stock calipers?
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Golfe .:R (08-05-2013)
07-31-2013, 10:29 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I got the rotor and bad combo from brake motive in the sponsored sales/group buy section for 145 shipped. I've got about 30-40k miles on mine and no signs of warping. I've done repeated back to back stops and higher speed brakeing and it just seems to take whatever I throw at it. When I need new brakes I'll bit te same thing back on
08-01-2013, 06:59 AM
#4
Safety Car
I put the Power Stop brake and rotor package from rock auto for 250.00. I have only encountered silky smooth braking since installing them.
Haven't seen a bad review for either.....
Haven't seen a bad review for either.....
08-01-2013, 08:24 AM
#6
Yeah, check out the package deals. Rockauto has several to choose from. Try your local auto parts stores for specials. Definitely an easy "DIY", check the sticky for installation tips. Hardest part is removing the rotor's retaining screws. Save the labor bucks for another more difficult project.
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08-01-2013, 03:12 PM
#9
Moderator
^^ Pretty darn easy if you dont have a stuck security bolt in your Front Rotors.
> Get your car on stands (Front Axle or Rear Axle or All Axles)
> Get wheels off
> Get a the right sockets for Caliper and Caliper Bracket (IIRC they are 12mm and 17mm / Rears are 10mm? and 14mm?)
> Undo the Caliper and Remove the Brake Pads and Pads shims from Caliper
> Remove the Caliper Bracket
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Front Rotors (IF YOU CAN!)
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Rear Rotors (Pretty Easy, They dont Stuck).
> If installing legend calipers first fill the caliper with Brake Fluid (So most air gets out)
> Remove the Brake Line (Think its a 14mm socket)
> If you can swap the calipers ASAP so if wont leak much from the brake line.
> Install new Rotors and install the security bolts* "not too tight" (Works on both Axles)
> Install the Caliper brackets
> Install pads and shims
> Install the Caliper and start the bleed process...
> Install wheels
> Remove stands
> GOOD TO GO..
Difficult? 1 out of 10 for Hardcore DIYers.. Perhaps 4 or 5 out of 10 for New DIYers..
> Get your car on stands (Front Axle or Rear Axle or All Axles)
> Get wheels off
> Get a the right sockets for Caliper and Caliper Bracket (IIRC they are 12mm and 17mm / Rears are 10mm? and 14mm?)
> Undo the Caliper and Remove the Brake Pads and Pads shims from Caliper
> Remove the Caliper Bracket
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Front Rotors (IF YOU CAN!)
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Rear Rotors (Pretty Easy, They dont Stuck).
> If installing legend calipers first fill the caliper with Brake Fluid (So most air gets out)
> Remove the Brake Line (Think its a 14mm socket)
> If you can swap the calipers ASAP so if wont leak much from the brake line.
> Install new Rotors and install the security bolts* "not too tight" (Works on both Axles)
> Install the Caliper brackets
> Install pads and shims
> Install the Caliper and start the bleed process...
> Install wheels
> Remove stands
> GOOD TO GO..
Difficult? 1 out of 10 for Hardcore DIYers.. Perhaps 4 or 5 out of 10 for New DIYers..
08-01-2013, 03:17 PM
#10
^^ Pretty darn easy if you dont have a stuck security bolt in your Front Rotors.
> Get your car on stands (Front Axle or Rear Axle or All Axles)
> Get wheels off
> Get a the right sockets for Caliper and Caliper Bracket (IIRC they are 12mm and 17mm / Rears are 10mm? and 14mm?)
> Undo the Caliper and Remove the Brake Pads and Pads shims from Caliper
> Remove the Caliper Bracket
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Front Rotors (IF YOU CAN!)
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Rear Rotors (Pretty Easy, They dont Stuck).
> If installing legend calipers first fill the caliper with Brake Fluid (So most air gets out)
> Remove the Brake Line (Think its a 14mm socket)
> If you can swap the calipers ASAP so if wont leak much from the brake line.
> Install new Rotors and install the security bolts* "not too tight" (Works on both Axles)
> Install the Caliper brackets
> Install pads and shims
> Install the Caliper and start the bleed process...
> Install wheels
> Remove stands
> GOOD TO GO..
Difficult? 1 out of 10 for Hardcore DIYers.. Perhaps 4 or 5 out of 10 for New DIYers..
> Get your car on stands (Front Axle or Rear Axle or All Axles)
> Get wheels off
> Get a the right sockets for Caliper and Caliper Bracket (IIRC they are 12mm and 17mm / Rears are 10mm? and 14mm?)
> Undo the Caliper and Remove the Brake Pads and Pads shims from Caliper
> Remove the Caliper Bracket
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Front Rotors (IF YOU CAN!)
> Remove the 2 security bolts off the Rear Rotors (Pretty Easy, They dont Stuck).
> If installing legend calipers first fill the caliper with Brake Fluid (So most air gets out)
> Remove the Brake Line (Think its a 14mm socket)
> If you can swap the calipers ASAP so if wont leak much from the brake line.
> Install new Rotors and install the security bolts* "not too tight" (Works on both Axles)
> Install the Caliper brackets
> Install pads and shims
> Install the Caliper and start the bleed process...
> Install wheels
> Remove stands
> GOOD TO GO..
Difficult? 1 out of 10 for Hardcore DIYers.. Perhaps 4 or 5 out of 10 for New DIYers..
08-01-2013, 03:36 PM
#11
Moderator
Dude I can get that done in 40 minutes :S
4 Hours is taking your long damn time hahahahaha...
2 Guys? 1st Diyers? In 1 hour tops.. If your being careful 2 hours TOPS...
2 Ton Jack is more than enough.. Even a 1 Ton would do per Wheel.. 2 Tons Works better to lift the whole front end or rear end and do 2 wheels at the same time.
4 Hours is taking your long damn time hahahahaha...
2 Guys? 1st Diyers? In 1 hour tops.. If your being careful 2 hours TOPS...
2 Ton Jack is more than enough.. Even a 1 Ton would do per Wheel.. 2 Tons Works better to lift the whole front end or rear end and do 2 wheels at the same time.
08-01-2013, 04:07 PM
#12
Dude I can get that done in 40 minutes :S
4 Hours is taking your long damn time hahahahaha...
2 Guys? 1st Diyers? In 1 hour tops.. If your being careful 2 hours TOPS...
2 Ton Jack is more than enough.. Even a 1 Ton would do per Wheel.. 2 Tons Works better to lift the whole front end or rear end and do 2 wheels at the same time.
4 Hours is taking your long damn time hahahahaha...
2 Guys? 1st Diyers? In 1 hour tops.. If your being careful 2 hours TOPS...
2 Ton Jack is more than enough.. Even a 1 Ton would do per Wheel.. 2 Tons Works better to lift the whole front end or rear end and do 2 wheels at the same time.
08-01-2013, 04:39 PM
#13
Moderator
The main difference is Brake Feel! Dont expect shorter stopping times or anything like that.. Its just to have the FEEL of braking something we didnt had with 1 pot.
08-02-2013, 03:15 AM
#15
Moderator
Ill get you something better:
FRC10628
FRC10627
08-02-2013, 05:33 PM
#16
Sok saBai jia dtay?
I searched the forums a few months back with the same question, and ended up going with Brakemotive - great price and generally positive feedback. I've had stellar results - no weird noises and very smoooooth braking. 2 months of 50/50 City (bumper to bumper) and freeway driving - would easily order these when the rotors on my civic crap out.
I do notice, however, that the slotted rotors make an interesting thwip/thwip/thwip/thwip (do this noise at what ever speed you are traveling at) kinda like the old baseball card in the bike-spokes type noise.
I do notice, however, that the slotted rotors make an interesting thwip/thwip/thwip/thwip (do this noise at what ever speed you are traveling at) kinda like the old baseball card in the bike-spokes type noise.
08-02-2013, 07:26 PM
#17
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
I searched the forums a few months back with the same question, and ended up going with Brakemotive - great price and generally positive feedback. I've had stellar results - no weird noises and very smoooooth braking. 2 months of 50/50 City (bumper to bumper) and freeway driving - would easily order these when the rotors on my civic crap out.
I do notice, however, that the slotted rotors make an interesting thwip/thwip/thwip/thwip (do this noise at what ever speed you are traveling at) kinda like the old baseball card in the bike-spokes type noise.
I do notice, however, that the slotted rotors make an interesting thwip/thwip/thwip/thwip (do this noise at what ever speed you are traveling at) kinda like the old baseball card in the bike-spokes type noise.
Last edited by Stephen00TL; 08-02-2013 at 07:30 PM.
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Golfe .:R (08-05-2013)
08-04-2013, 01:58 PM
#20
I just replaced my rotors yesterday.
Australia 4000xs in the front.
EBC Sport in the rear.
Akebono Premium Ceramic all around.
Couldn't be happier, smooth and I'd swear the car handles better.
Australia 4000xs in the front.
EBC Sport in the rear.
Akebono Premium Ceramic all around.
Couldn't be happier, smooth and I'd swear the car handles better.
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Golfe .:R (08-05-2013)
08-04-2013, 10:17 PM
#21
Thanks for all the good advice guys. I just finished installing Brakemotive drilled and slotted rotors. They look great only cost $145 on eBay for 4 rotors and ceramic pads! This forum provided easy install instructions. I saved so much money doing it myself.
Thanks
Thanks
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Golfe .:R (08-05-2013)
08-07-2013, 01:46 PM
#22
You get what you pay for. I'd highly recommend our AZ brake packages which use STOPTECH components.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-398965.aspx
These Acurazine brake packages are designed to improve braking performance and durability at a reasonable price. The packages include Powerslot/STOPTECH performance rotors and STOPTECH Performance pads. All of the rotors have a black e-coating on the hubs and vanes and an advanced alloy composition. The Powerslot slotted rotors for the front of most Acuras also have a Power Alloy composition and a curved vane construction, which helps reduce heat in the brake system. The STOPTECH Performance pads are a para-aramid compound, which has great initial bite and long-term performance and lower dust and noise than most aftermarket brake pads.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-398965.aspx
These Acurazine brake packages are designed to improve braking performance and durability at a reasonable price. The packages include Powerslot/STOPTECH performance rotors and STOPTECH Performance pads. All of the rotors have a black e-coating on the hubs and vanes and an advanced alloy composition. The Powerslot slotted rotors for the front of most Acuras also have a Power Alloy composition and a curved vane construction, which helps reduce heat in the brake system. The STOPTECH Performance pads are a para-aramid compound, which has great initial bite and long-term performance and lower dust and noise than most aftermarket brake pads.
08-08-2013, 03:06 PM
#23
Pro
I second the EBC Sport dimpled/slotted rotors. I paired them with EBC RedStuff pads and replaced the stock brake lines with Goodridge stainless steel ones. I love the pedal feel with this combo, and they work great in the rain.
08-08-2013, 03:06 PM
#24
Pro
I second the EBC Sport dimpled/slotted rotors. I paired them with EBC RedStuff pads and replaced the stock brake lines with Goodridge stainless steel ones. I love the pedal feel with this combo, and they work great in the rain.
08-08-2013, 06:54 PM
#25
My mechanic told me to look into cryo treated rotors, they have them online at tire rack. But I'm still debating on wether or not its worth ot to get drilled or slotted rotors. Any suggestions? I have a '05 RL
08-14-2013, 07:41 PM
#28
Moderator
08-18-2013, 12:38 PM
#29
GOLFE R i know ur rotors are already install even if it takes you 8 hrs. take ur time you don't do this for a living. it' it's better 2 b safe than sorry. always double check your work. what's better a chicken or a dead rooster. AND NEVER MINE I DIED TRYING.
08-18-2013, 01:27 PM
#30
3rd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2013
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I'm having the same exact issue, In fact I had my car taken in to be repaired and new rotors were installed along with new brake pads... A little over a month later I started to feel the vibrating again. I have a feeling my calipers have something to do with it :\
08-22-2013, 11:00 PM
#32
I need 2 more gears
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Racing Brake rotors and pads are excellent choices. Also Legend LS coupe calipers (switch sides when installing) and SS lines with good DOT 4 fluid and you are golden.
08-25-2013, 06:42 PM
#33
[QUOTE=bonknhead;14615657]I second the EBC Sport dimpled/slotted rotors. I paired them with EBC RedStuff pads and replaced the stock brake lines with Goodridge stainless steel ones. I love the pedal feel with this combo, and they work great in the rain.[/QUOTE
I had the EBC green pads and EBC slotted rotors - not recommended.
They do grip well - much better than Acura OEM pads/rotors for a quick stop, but after a short while they caused such a bad vibration in the front end when braking due to the sudden grip that I had to remove the pads and replace them back to new Acura OEM pads. The EBC pads caused a vibration that was so bad I though I may snap something in the front end.
I can't recommend them (and yes, I broke the SBC brakes/rotors in per the instructions and even retried several times after that). Immediately after reinstalling new Acura pads (still keeping the EBC rotors), the vibration went away and braking was normal yet I can still hear the pads 'swooshing' as they rub across the EBC slots on the rotors. Next time, I'm going with flat rotors (maybe Centric?) and stick with the Acura OEM pads. The 'hardly used' EBC pads are still sitting in a box in my garage.
My 2 cents
and experience.
I had the EBC green pads and EBC slotted rotors - not recommended.
They do grip well - much better than Acura OEM pads/rotors for a quick stop, but after a short while they caused such a bad vibration in the front end when braking due to the sudden grip that I had to remove the pads and replace them back to new Acura OEM pads. The EBC pads caused a vibration that was so bad I though I may snap something in the front end.
I can't recommend them (and yes, I broke the SBC brakes/rotors in per the instructions and even retried several times after that). Immediately after reinstalling new Acura pads (still keeping the EBC rotors), the vibration went away and braking was normal yet I can still hear the pads 'swooshing' as they rub across the EBC slots on the rotors. Next time, I'm going with flat rotors (maybe Centric?) and stick with the Acura OEM pads. The 'hardly used' EBC pads are still sitting in a box in my garage.
My 2 cents
and experience.
08-26-2013, 08:20 AM
#34
Pro
I had the EBC green pads and EBC slotted rotors - not recommended.
They do grip well - much better than Acura OEM pads/rotors for a quick stop, but after a short while they caused such a bad vibration in the front end when braking due to the sudden grip that I had to remove the pads and replace them back to new Acura OEM pads. The EBC pads caused a vibration that was so bad I though I may snap something in the front end.
I can't recommend them (and yes, I broke the SBC brakes/rotors in per the instructions and even retried several times after that). Immediately after reinstalling new Acura pads (still keeping the EBC rotors), the vibration went away and braking was normal yet I can still hear the pads 'swooshing' as they rub across the EBC slots on the rotors. Next time, I'm going with flat rotors (maybe Centric?) and stick with the Acura OEM pads. The 'hardly used' EBC pads are still sitting in a box in my garage.
My 2 cents and experience.
They do grip well - much better than Acura OEM pads/rotors for a quick stop, but after a short while they caused such a bad vibration in the front end when braking due to the sudden grip that I had to remove the pads and replace them back to new Acura OEM pads. The EBC pads caused a vibration that was so bad I though I may snap something in the front end.
I can't recommend them (and yes, I broke the SBC brakes/rotors in per the instructions and even retried several times after that). Immediately after reinstalling new Acura pads (still keeping the EBC rotors), the vibration went away and braking was normal yet I can still hear the pads 'swooshing' as they rub across the EBC slots on the rotors. Next time, I'm going with flat rotors (maybe Centric?) and stick with the Acura OEM pads. The 'hardly used' EBC pads are still sitting in a box in my garage.
My 2 cents
and experience.
08-26-2013, 09:47 AM
#35
Senior Moderator
Ive got over 200k on my Rotora rotors (and 2 sets of EBC Green pads and 1 set of reds). Zero warping but in need of changing as the slots are almost completely gone 
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