Rotor debate - need opinions
#1
Rotor debate - need opinions
I have a 2003 TL with warped front end rotors. this will be my 4th set of rotors in 5 years. I have decided that enough is enough, and I want to upgrade. Here are the options I was presented:
My mechanic found a set of rotors by Wagner that have a "lifetime warranty". They are expensive. $200, and the repair will cost $600 total. If the warranty is what is says it is, then I will be able to replace them if necessary for free - but will still have to pay for new pads and labor.
Then there are vendors, like Excelerate on this site, who sell cross drilled/scored rotors for less, and the whole cost of the repair would be probably $350-$400, but no guaranty.
What would you do?
Thank you!
My mechanic found a set of rotors by Wagner that have a "lifetime warranty". They are expensive. $200, and the repair will cost $600 total. If the warranty is what is says it is, then I will be able to replace them if necessary for free - but will still have to pay for new pads and labor.
Then there are vendors, like Excelerate on this site, who sell cross drilled/scored rotors for less, and the whole cost of the repair would be probably $350-$400, but no guaranty.
What would you do?
Thank you!
#2
$200 is a ripoff for oem style rotors. you can get Racingbrake rotors for only $50 more.
this is what i went with:
EBC Blackdash rotors ($166) + EBC Red Stuff pads ($85) + installation from reputable shop ($85) - 12% discount from www.placeforbrakes.com = $306
this is what i went with:
EBC Blackdash rotors ($166) + EBC Red Stuff pads ($85) + installation from reputable shop ($85) - 12% discount from www.placeforbrakes.com = $306
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#4
^ well not after this time. it was the first time the brakes were done when the car was in my possession. i wanted the mechanic to check everything and make sure it all looked right. im a big DIYer but im no professional.
#5
yes, I have a mechanic do it because i'm a girl, an attorney, and I do know nuthin' 'bout fixin' no cars. Truly, this is waaaaaaay out of my league.
So, I'm not sure from the responses what the recommendation is? Buy non-warranty cheaper (cross drilled, etc.) rotors or get the warranty?
So, I'm not sure from the responses what the recommendation is? Buy non-warranty cheaper (cross drilled, etc.) rotors or get the warranty?
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#7
Thanks, TotaledTL (eek! ominous name!). I actually have searched, and while I get some info that says use this, I get other info that says use that. It's all particular to each person's situation. I'm just tryin' to see if someone more experienced would evaluate the question of the benefit of the more expensive warranty vs. the less expensive (but good quality) rotors without a warranty. Is the warranty worth it?
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#8
RB = racingbrake.com rotors (see our vendor mrheeltoe) will outlast and outperform anything else for the street car
you dont need warranty when its built right!!
those lifetime warranties know its going to fail,, and when you return for exchange- sell you new pads and other parts too
brembo is another very good brand, ebc is above original quality, stoptech above oe quality
that would be my choices, starting at rb and working down
side slots and dimples or cross drilled are total bling for 90 percent of their users
Never get the system hot enough for any of that to matter~
more holes in the rotor = noise from brakes all the time
you dont need warranty when its built right!!
those lifetime warranties know its going to fail,, and when you return for exchange- sell you new pads and other parts too
brembo is another very good brand, ebc is above original quality, stoptech above oe quality
that would be my choices, starting at rb and working down
side slots and dimples or cross drilled are total bling for 90 percent of their users
Never get the system hot enough for any of that to matter~
more holes in the rotor = noise from brakes all the time
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#12
I've had good experience with stop tech, rotora and brembo's in the past... stop tech is probably best bang for the buck for aftermarket rotors that are an improvement over OE... anything less is asking for trouble.
Also, rotors don't really "warp" very often unless you've had someone tighten your lug nuts improperly...more times than not, it has to do with an uneven build up of pad material on the rotor itself causing the "shake" when you brake.
sometimes repeating a brake "bed-in procedure" http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
may decrease or even get rid of the "shake" that you experience sometimes.... not always, but good info to keep in mind
Also, rotors don't really "warp" very often unless you've had someone tighten your lug nuts improperly...more times than not, it has to do with an uneven build up of pad material on the rotor itself causing the "shake" when you brake.
sometimes repeating a brake "bed-in procedure" http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
may decrease or even get rid of the "shake" that you experience sometimes.... not always, but good info to keep in mind
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#13
If youre not an agressive driver you could try brakemotive. Hes an acurazine vendor and has an eBay store. He has good prices. Ive had mine for about 5k miles now with no problems so far. They stop very well.
Go for the regular blanks, no holes or slots.
Go for the regular blanks, no holes or slots.
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#14
++++1
You are not a race driver so there is no need to spend way too much money on brakes.
I bought the Brakemotive F/R slotted cross drilled plus pads all around for 3 of my vehicles for $160 per kit w/ free shipping (because I bought 3) $170 w/ free shipping is the normal price and I have beat the hell out of them and I have no problems/complaints at all. I think that this is the best deal going...period.
$169.99 FREE shipping--can't beat it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...Q5fAccessories
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#15
Uhm, thanks for the accolade but, somebody else repaired it- I just try to keep it up myself so I can drive it a long time & save $ too. I'm no expert by any means....
#17
My .02 says pick up a set of the Centric rotors from tire rack with the akebono pads and you will be happy.
If you can't do the work your self at least you are buying some decent products that will last.
I did my wifes TL-S about nine months ago and it still stops nice and smooth.
BTW the rotors are plain flat rotors. No holes or slots or anything like that. she drive the heck out of that car, but not racing.
good luck
TRIX
If you can't do the work your self at least you are buying some decent products that will last.
I did my wifes TL-S about nine months ago and it still stops nice and smooth.
BTW the rotors are plain flat rotors. No holes or slots or anything like that. she drive the heck out of that car, but not racing.
good luck
TRIX
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#18
Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors. Around 30,000 trouble free miles.
Also, $600 is pretty damn steep for a brake job. I'd suggest getting a few more quotes.
Also, $600 is pretty damn steep for a brake job. I'd suggest getting a few more quotes.
Last edited by Gfaze; 10-06-2010 at 11:37 PM.
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#19
#20
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
We've actually put together a great package for Aziners. It includes STOPTECH/Powerslot slotted rotors, which have a black coating on the hubs and vanes and a power alloy composition (in this case the front rotors also have a curved vane), along with STOPTECH performance pads. You can see the specs on the pads in this illustration:
Here's the link to the package:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-398965.aspx
Here's the link to the package:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-398965.aspx
#22
I use Wagner rotors and they don't cost $200.
Fronts are typically around ~$70 and the backs ~$45. They may have different grades and quoted you grade 3. The Wagners I use are rated as grade 2.
I'd also ask a lot of questions about the lifetime warranty. You, being a lawyer and all, should know some "lifetime warranties" aren't actually warrantees at all and just another way to increase revenues.
Fronts are typically around ~$70 and the backs ~$45. They may have different grades and quoted you grade 3. The Wagners I use are rated as grade 2.
I'd also ask a lot of questions about the lifetime warranty. You, being a lawyer and all, should know some "lifetime warranties" aren't actually warrantees at all and just another way to increase revenues.
Last edited by smartypants; 10-07-2010 at 10:23 PM.
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Yumster888 (12-01-2011)
#23
for all: to reduce brake dust--which is a natural byproduct of active braking--
clean the wheels on both sides--do a really good job removing old crud to prep surface.
use wheel cleaner if bad
Now apply 2-3 coats SYNTHETIC car wax, same stuff you use on the car is fine.
regular carnuba wax has a 100f lower melt point and will be gone.
buff the wheels to your satisfaction and install on car- tighten lugs the right way to avoid rotor warpage cause!!
80 foot pounds final torque for the TL
Scorching hot brake particulate matter gets flung off the pads and sticks to the nearest object,the rim
which then makes an easy place for more of itself and road grit to attach = brake dust
With wax on there its very slippery, so reduces friction = less attachment= wheels stay much cleaner and clean up easy too
thanks to excel detail for that tip!
clean the wheels on both sides--do a really good job removing old crud to prep surface.
use wheel cleaner if bad
Now apply 2-3 coats SYNTHETIC car wax, same stuff you use on the car is fine.
regular carnuba wax has a 100f lower melt point and will be gone.
buff the wheels to your satisfaction and install on car- tighten lugs the right way to avoid rotor warpage cause!!
80 foot pounds final torque for the TL
Scorching hot brake particulate matter gets flung off the pads and sticks to the nearest object,the rim
which then makes an easy place for more of itself and road grit to attach = brake dust
With wax on there its very slippery, so reduces friction = less attachment= wheels stay much cleaner and clean up easy too
thanks to excel detail for that tip!
#24
Just a very belated thanks to all for replying here. And an update, I went with the Wagner, paid the fortune, and haven't had any problems since - except when the brakes are cold and at creeping speeds - when I'm backing out of the drive, they squeal a bit. But, no vibrating, and they are working.
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