Reset my ECU, great results

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Old May 17, 2002 | 11:52 PM
  #1  
Jaydef's Avatar
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Reset my ECU, great results

my car seems a lot slower than the numbers i see for it. it feels like high 7s 0-60, when it shud b at 7 flat. its a 2000 TLp, and i have trouble with alotta cars. i tied a stock accord! that shudnt happen! the car's in perfect condition, so i figured i shud reset the ECU. well i did, and then drove it REAL hard. and now i hook onto 1st gear alot easier, and VTEC kicks in alot earlier and stronger. the VTEC roar is now almost a full second longer than it was.
i put it to the test, i raced my friend 4.4 X5 and put up a real good fight. whereas before, he wud prolly smoke me. and i alos raced my friends WRX, and he must be a ****ty driver, bc i was at his back door up until 30, and then i hadda slow down for a parked car.... but it cud just be because his turbo hadnt kicked in yet....

but either way, im pretty satisfied with the results.
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Old May 18, 2002 | 01:15 AM
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'Big Daddy Diggler'
 
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From: Yonkers NY
See, you gotta listen to me some more.....
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Old May 18, 2002 | 01:18 AM
  #3  
ArN 2000 TL's Avatar
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From: Nassau County, NY
How exactly did you reset the ECU? Just by unpluggin the battery for a few minutes?
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Old May 18, 2002 | 02:58 AM
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How would resetting the ECU help? I'm under the impression that the ECU knows when you are going full throttle, and will adjust whatever to compensate. What am I missing here?
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Old May 18, 2002 | 03:15 AM
  #5  
SimTypeS's Avatar
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Originally posted by patrick
How would resetting the ECU help? I'm under the impression that the ECU knows when you are going full throttle, and will adjust whatever to compensate. What am I missing here?
The ECU is supposed to be able to adapt to the driver (well, whoever put the earliest miles on it, anyway). So,if you were taking it easy during break-in (as you should), it might be holding back a little. There's a fuse you can take out, for like 15 seconds, if I remember right, put it back and and it has to adapt to your driving all over again. Bada-bing, bada-boom!
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Old May 18, 2002 | 03:41 AM
  #6  
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just disconnect the batter. the fuse is under the front passenger seat or some place annoying. you will have to enter in your radio/navi codes then however.
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Old May 18, 2002 | 04:53 AM
  #7  
SL1200MK4's Avatar
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How do I disconnect the battery?

I mean should I disconnect the ground (- al a black) first? or the + ala red?

for how long I should do that?

do I have to enter the security code for the radio after?

thx
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Old May 18, 2002 | 08:12 AM
  #8  
Racer
 
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From: sarasota:fl
would i lose the addresses in my Nav?
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Old May 18, 2002 | 08:59 AM
  #9  
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According to Roadrage, in an earlier post, the easiest way to reset the ECU is to pull the ECU/Cruise Control fuse and step on the brake for 30 seconds. This avoids any problems (lost addresses, codes being re-entered) that disconnecting the battery might pose.

Apparently, pushing the brake activates one of the pins on the ECU and either drains what little power it had left in it, or acts as a reset signal (was not clear on which one it was).

Hope that helps.
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Old May 18, 2002 | 10:17 AM
  #10  
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Exclamation swapped out a battery

was disconnected for 40 minutes. reconnected , put in neutral, and redlined it for a couple of minutes! added my fuel cleaner, and wooooosh! props to bigman for the redlining tip! kman by the way, i don't know about you guys but there is a small white decal on the glove compartment panel on the side when i open it that has my radio code right there! takes me 2 secs to redo my stations.
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Old May 18, 2002 | 10:31 AM
  #11  
Burning Brakes
 
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Hmm...very interesting tip...think I'm going to try it...
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Old May 18, 2002 | 12:32 PM
  #12  
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pulling ecu/cruise control 15amp fuse on drivers side

i did as one of the post stated. i pulled the ecu/cruise control fuse on the drivers side its a 15amp fuse. i held the brake down for a while. i also started the engine with the fuse out. all kinds of light were on and blinking. i put the fuse back in and started the engine. all lights were fine except the engine malfuntion light. it stayed on. i know it was because of me taking out the fuse, so i know i dont have an engine problem. is the light going to go out or is there a way to reset it like the change oil light?
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Old May 18, 2002 | 01:40 PM
  #13  
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Re: pulling ecu/cruise control 15amp fuse on drivers side

Originally posted by stinkboy
i did as one of the post stated. i pulled the ecu/cruise control fuse on the drivers side its a 15amp fuse. i held the brake down for a while. i also started the engine with the fuse out. all kinds of light were on and blinking. i put the fuse back in and started the engine. all lights were fine except the engine malfuntion light. it stayed on. i know it was because of me taking out the fuse, so i know i dont have an engine problem. is the light going to go out or is there a way to reset it like the change oil light?
shouldnt of turned on your car without that fuse...anyways..to reset the check engine light, you have to disconnect the battery for a minute, then reconnect it.
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Old May 18, 2002 | 01:48 PM
  #14  
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Re: swapped out a battery

Originally posted by kman156
was disconnected for 40 minutes. reconnected , put in neutral, and redlined it for a couple of minutes!
Redlined for a couple minutes???

not the whole time right?? Did you just rev it to redline back n forth for a few??..
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Old May 18, 2002 | 05:39 PM
  #15  
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Damn, reseting the ECU makes an improvement. :wow: Ever since I changed my Denso plugs, I didn't notice much different. But now, my baby zoooooooooooommmmmz. :wow: I remove the ECU/cruise control fuse brake method. Did I forget to mention that my baby zooooooms? HEHE:p
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Old May 19, 2002 | 01:21 AM
  #16  
UW RL's Avatar
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i will do it tomorrow morning and see what's up.
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Old May 19, 2002 | 01:40 AM
  #17  
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From: Vancouver, BC
It would be most appreciative if someone can provide step by step instructions on what needs to be done to reset the ECU. It'll help the non-mechanical guys like me out a lot. :o Thanks in advance!
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Old May 19, 2002 | 01:44 AM
  #18  
UW RL's Avatar
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according to my manual, you remove the driver's side fuse #6, which controls (alternator, charging system light, cruise main/TCS swtich, Cruise control unite, ELD unit, engline mount control solenoid valve, EVAP bypass solenoid valve, PCM, and a lot of other engine stuff)

I just wanted to confirm that it's #6 fuse that we pull out. right guys?
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Old May 19, 2002 | 02:03 AM
  #19  
Racer
 
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From: 604 area
yes, it's the number 6 one
but afterwards, do i press on the brakes for about 30 seconds

and then after i start engine again do i need to redline the car, if yes, do i put it in neutral to redline the car, or do i redline at acceleration??
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Old May 19, 2002 | 08:14 AM
  #20  
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yea instruction would be nice :p
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Old May 19, 2002 | 08:34 AM
  #21  
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From: Quebec
yea instruction would be nice
I want instructions too!!


@cUr@-TL
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Old May 19, 2002 | 09:11 AM
  #22  
Jaydef's Avatar
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From: Westchester NY
well, the way i did it...
disconnect the positive cable from the battery for a good 20 minutes (dont let the cable touch any part of metal on your car!)

hook the positive back on, and let the car idle for 15 minutes (during this time you can punch in the code for ur navi and radio, which should all be on the front page of your owners manual).

drive like a mad man for a good 15 minutes, deeply redlining it in 2nd and shifting hard... do this alot during the 15 minutes.

the ECU gets used to this driving style and is more response....

---thanks bigman
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Old May 19, 2002 | 11:32 AM
  #23  
speed's Avatar
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Kman, When you redlined in neutral, how long did you do this for? I think it would be easier to do this than to drive like a maniac on the streets for 15 minutes!
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Old May 19, 2002 | 12:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by Jaydef
well, the way i did it...
disconnect the positive cable from the battery for a good 20 minutes (dont let the cable touch any part of metal on your car!)

hook the positive back on, and let the car idle for 15 minutes (during this time you can punch in the code for ur navi and radio, which should all be on the front page of your owners manual).

drive like a mad man for a good 15 minutes, deeply redlining it in 2nd and shifting hard... do this alot during the 15 minutes.

the ECU gets used to this driving style and is more response....

---thanks bigman
Here's a tip. Never disconnect the positive cable first - always the negative first.

Why? If you accidentally touch your wrench/socket to the car body/engine/etc while disconnecting the positive... you might spot weld your wrench to your car!

If you would have already removed the negative cable, the short wouldn't happen.
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Old May 19, 2002 | 05:55 PM
  #25  
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From: BOCA RATON, FL.
Exclamation check my 130 mph post

that will tellyou what i did before i ran it, plus a good post on a badass audi TT! kman
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Old May 19, 2002 | 08:08 PM
  #26  
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So this is what I do, correct me if I'm wrong cuz I'm trying this tomorrow:
-take out fuse #6
-press the brake pedal for 30 secs
-turn the car on(?)
-rev hard for how long(?)

pleez help me to understand. Is it noticeable when you do this?
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Old May 19, 2002 | 08:56 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by badazzTL
So this is what I do, correct me if I'm wrong cuz I'm trying this tomorrow:
-take out fuse #6
-press the brake pedal for 30 secs
-turn the car on(?)
-rev hard for how long(?)

pleez help me to understand. Is it noticeable when you do this?
With car off...

1. Take out fuse
2. Press on brake pedal for 30 sec
3. Put fuse in

your done.

Is it noticeable? That's up for debate. I think it's not very noticeable, but others (certainly in this thread) would disagree.

However, I never tried the revving thing...
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Old May 19, 2002 | 09:10 PM
  #28  
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Originally posted by fla-tls
well since you're sort of "teaching" the ecu to adapt to the way you drive, I would imagine it would only benefit if you drive hard while its trying to learn your driving habits. Im going to try this, it cant hurt
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