Replacing rotors and pads (Rotora Slotted & Green Stuff)
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Replacing rotors and pads (Rotora Slotted & Green Stuff)
After crusing the forum for hours I finally decided to replace my current rotors (that are warped to hell) with Rotora Slotted rotors and EBC Green Stuff pads. I bought the car with 42k and it appears that the rotors and pads have been replaced with el-cheapo aftermarket junk and warped in less than 10k. They are also missing the majority of the rotor screws...but that doesn't seem to be a problem.
I got the pads for $102 shipped and the rotors for $290 shipped. I hope I didn't over pay.
Everything should arrive later this week and I'll be sure to post back with feedback.
Also wanted to say to all the noobs out there (myself included) that there is a lot of information on this board if you take the time to look for it. Thanks.
I got the pads for $102 shipped and the rotors for $290 shipped. I hope I didn't over pay.
Everything should arrive later this week and I'll be sure to post back with feedback.
Also wanted to say to all the noobs out there (myself included) that there is a lot of information on this board if you take the time to look for it. Thanks.
#2
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Welcome to the forum. Good choice on parts
#3
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sounds good - there is a very good DIY on here also if you need instructions
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116747]
I am going to use the same rotors, but stay with stock pads - I want to make sure it is all quiet and the stock setup is fine for me, just the warped rotors gets annoying
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116747]
I am going to use the same rotors, but stay with stock pads - I want to make sure it is all quiet and the stock setup is fine for me, just the warped rotors gets annoying
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Pads arrived on Saturday via FedEx and Rotors are scheduled for delivery tomorrow. If everything works out I'll be tackling this tomorrow night.
Tonight is penetrating oil application night.
Tonight is penetrating oil application night.
#6
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Originally Posted by TheNuke
Pads arrived on Saturday via FedEx and Rotors are scheduled for delivery tomorrow. If everything works out I'll be tackling this tomorrow night.
Tonight is penetrating oil application night.
Tonight is penetrating oil application night.
#7
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Make sure to get a Impact Screwdriver to make removing the Rotor screws alot easier
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Originally Posted by kcblack02tl-s
i didnt use an impact screwdriver i just simply used a hammer focused on the screw locations to knock it loose and it worked perfectly with NO damage.
#9
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Originally Posted by kcblack02tl-s
i didnt use an impact screwdriver i just simply used a hammer focused on the screw locations to knock it loose and it worked perfectly with NO damage.
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Well, I had to work late last night, so tonite was the first chance I had to get started. Glad to say, no real problems on the fronts. I have a feeling that the reason my current rotors felt so warped is because the rotor screws were drilled out, but not smoothed out...so the rotors weren't sitting flush. Took care of that with the Dremel.
However, when I went to get the front end down my floor jack wouldn't lift the car. I opened the valve and gave it a few pumps to clear any air, but nothing. And I don't have any jack oil. So I ended up lifting it with the factory jack on a 2x4 to get it off the jack stands. Pain. After that fiasco I quit for the night.
Round 2 tomorrow.
However, when I went to get the front end down my floor jack wouldn't lift the car. I opened the valve and gave it a few pumps to clear any air, but nothing. And I don't have any jack oil. So I ended up lifting it with the factory jack on a 2x4 to get it off the jack stands. Pain. After that fiasco I quit for the night.
Round 2 tomorrow.
#12
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Originally Posted by TheNuke
After crusing the forum for hours I finally decided to replace my current rotors (that are warped to hell) with Rotora Slotted rotors and EBC Green Stuff pads. I bought the car with 42k and it appears that the rotors and pads have been replaced with el-cheapo aftermarket junk and warped in less than 10k. They are also missing the majority of the rotor screws...but that doesn't seem to be a problem.
I got the pads for $102 shipped and the rotors for $290 shipped. I hope I didn't over pay.
Everything should arrive later this week and I'll be sure to post back with feedback.
Also wanted to say to all the noobs out there (myself included) that there is a lot of information on this board if you take the time to look for it. Thanks.
I got the pads for $102 shipped and the rotors for $290 shipped. I hope I didn't over pay.
Everything should arrive later this week and I'll be sure to post back with feedback.
Also wanted to say to all the noobs out there (myself included) that there is a lot of information on this board if you take the time to look for it. Thanks.
#13
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Originally Posted by ou sig
I heard you can do that...how do you do that exactly? Just use a punch at an angle to break the screw loose?
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
Where did you get your parts from. I'm looking on modacar and it looks like 170 shipped just for the slotted rotora's. And that's just for the front. I actually am debating on wether this is a good price or not. If someone could answer in the next few mins it would be very helpful. Otherwise I'll just buy them and find out if it was a bad call later
they should have some holiday deals
#15
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I just checked out streerbeat and they charge 10 dollars more and I couldn't find the green stuff pads have any other suggestions as far as where to get them
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You could also look here for the ROTORA Slotted Rotors: https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/rotora-slotted-drilled-slotted-rotors-special-cl-tl-tsx-324531/
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
I just checked out streerbeat and they charge 10 dollars more and I couldn't find the green stuff pads have any other suggestions as far as where to get them
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
I just checked out streerbeat and they charge 10 dollars more and I couldn't find the green stuff pads have any other suggestions as far as where to get them
Use code MC051069 for 10% off all EBC Products. $102 shipped.
$392 shipped for all 4 rotors and pad sets.
#19
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Well I ended up getting them from brakesrus.com and paid too much. It wasn't until later when I went to the EBC website and clicked on a link for ajusa.com and found them there for about 15 bucks cheaper. Man, I guess I learned a lesson. Next time I will wait until I have researched completely. Thanks for all your help guys.
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i have the rotoras on my 2001 CL-S.. all is fine with the rotors except for a cosmetic complaint.. the black area that is supposed to be rust resistant is covered with rust on my rear rotors after only 1 year of use..
#21
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Good choice on the rotors, they're awesome! Here's a tip when installing the rotors if you haven't done so, release the e brake when you are about to remove the rear rotors. I did mine for the first time, and I couldn't figure out for hr why the rotors wouldn't come off. It was a new mistake..=)
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Originally Posted by hangbok
Good choice on the rotors, they're awesome! Here's a tip when installing the rotors if you haven't done so, release the e brake when you are about to remove the rear rotors. I did mine for the first time, and I couldn't figure out for hr why the rotors wouldn't come off. It was a new mistake..=)
I know I'm supposed to expect some noise in the first few hundred miles, but I can't help but wonder if the squeal when I stop is normal...
#23
Originally Posted by TheNuke
I got my rotors at streetbeatcustoms.com for $290 shipped. Use coupon code INSTANT40 to get $40 off.
I was gonna try and use the code Nuke but it appeared that you could only use the free shipping code or the instant40 code. How much were front and rears total shipped? (290 total right?...no other fees) Did you combine the codes?
Thanks
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Originally Posted by Chauncey
I was gonna try and use the code Nuke but it appeared that you could only use the free shipping code or the instant40 code. How much were front and rears total shipped? (290 total right?...no other fees) Did you combine the codes?
Thanks
Thanks
#25
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Originally Posted by kcblack02tl-s
i did it straight on no angling the hammer, and the screw came loose. i didnt want to use an impact screwdriver because of the chance of damaging the screw. plus hammers and banging things are much more fun. Although i did have to use my uncle's air compressor to take off the rims.
Impact screw driver. Not air powered, wont damage screws and you get to use a hammer
#26
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Impact screw driver. Not air powered, wont damage screws and you get to use a hammer
#27
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Impact screw driver. Not air powered, wont damage screws and you get to use a hammer
I just got done putting the rotora's on and the green stuff pads and I used the impact screwdriver thing on the rotors. It worked perfectly, I didn't damage the bolts at all. I didn't use a manual so my dumbass took off the giant center nut on the hub, then realized that it wasn't necessary. I did learn something new though. I'm sure every body knows this, but I had to use 8mm screws to get the rotors off. Oh and while I had the wheels off I went ahead and removed my intake resonator, it sounds great, and there is no more shuddering from the brakes.
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Well, I finished up my install on Saturday. No problems other than those I already mentioned. The most frustrating of which was that the dealership I bought the car from left the stubs of the rotor screws they drilled out. I'm guessing that's why I experienced the "warped" feeling after such a short time.
I have about 300 miles on the rotors and pads (yes, since Saturday) and about 60% are highway miles. They squeal like a banshee when I come to a stop. If I slow from highway speeds and they get hot the sound goes away. I plan on taking it easy on the brakes for another full tank of gas (about 350 miles) and then bedding them in. Should I expect the squealing to stop?
I have about 300 miles on the rotors and pads (yes, since Saturday) and about 60% are highway miles. They squeal like a banshee when I come to a stop. If I slow from highway speeds and they get hot the sound goes away. I plan on taking it easy on the brakes for another full tank of gas (about 350 miles) and then bedding them in. Should I expect the squealing to stop?
#29
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I installed mine on monday and I'm at 176 miles and I only heard a little squeeling and it only lasted for like a sec. I have been taking it easy on the brakes the whole time. I read the instructions on the pads and it said to brake easily for the first 200 to 500 miles and that's my plan. Haven't had a prob yet. I'l let you know if I do.
To TheNuke, did you bed them in when you put them on by coming to an abrupt stop from high speeds?
To TheNuke, did you bed them in when you put them on by coming to an abrupt stop from high speeds?
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No I didn't bed them in immediately. I was under the impression that you need to brake softly for a few hundred miles and THEN bed them in.
I hope I didn't mess that up. Thanks for the tip though. I've got some reading to do...
I hope I didn't mess that up. Thanks for the tip though. I've got some reading to do...
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I ran through a few tanks of gas since my install and felt that I had put enough miles on the pads to bed them in. Last night I started with four 40mph - 10mph runs to warm up the pads and rotors. I followed that up with six 60mph - 5mph runs. Never coming to a complete stop. After that I drove around for about 20 minutes to cool everything back down before I parked the car for the night.
I drove the car this morning and everything feels great! Not a peep out of the pads, just silky smooth stops.
If anything changes, I'll post an update, but I'm really liking the setup.
I drove the car this morning and everything feels great! Not a peep out of the pads, just silky smooth stops.
If anything changes, I'll post an update, but I'm really liking the setup.
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Like I said, if anything changes, I'll post....
Unfortunately things have changed. Rotors are warped. Properly broken in and bedded. It's been less than 8k.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.
Unfortunately things have changed. Rotors are warped. Properly broken in and bedded. It's been less than 8k.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.
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Honestly, I'm not sure what to do now. I'm wondering if there is something more serious wrong with the brake setup. This is the second set of rotors that have warped in a total of a little over 10k. Is it possible that something else is causing this?
#35
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Are you sure they are warped or just slight shaking that could be caused by some build up and the slots? Unless you have a brake hanging up causing them to constantly over heat the rotor, nothing will cause the rotors to warp. Doubtfull you have a rotor hanging. You would feel it pluss it would really want to pull to that side
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I just installed my Rotora slotted/drilled rear rotors and Rotora ceramic pads on my 05' WDP 6MT. I was surprised to see that we have drum brakes and disks in the rear. I've never seen this before. Install was simple and complete in no time. The instructions say to apply the brakes lightly for the first 250-500 miles. The look and feel are great, now I'm just waiting for Rotora to release the front slotted/drilled rotors for the 6MT and replace those as well. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
#37
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Originally Posted by TL-CrAzIe-05
I just installed my Rotora slotted/drilled rear rotors and Rotora ceramic pads on my 05' WDP 6MT. I was surprised to see that we have drum brakes and disks in the rear. I've never seen this before. Install was simple and complete in no time. The instructions say to apply the brakes lightly for the first 250-500 miles. The look and feel are great, now I'm just waiting for Rotora to release the front slotted/drilled rotors for the 6MT and replace those as well. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
#38
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Originally Posted by TheNuke
Like I said, if anything changes, I'll post....
Unfortunately things have changed. Rotors are warped. Properly broken in and bedded. It's been less than 8k.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.
Unfortunately things have changed. Rotors are warped. Properly broken in and bedded. It's been less than 8k.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Are you sure they are warped or just slight shaking that could be caused by some build up and the slots? Unless you have a brake hanging up causing them to constantly over heat the rotor, nothing will cause the rotors to warp. Doubtfull you have a rotor hanging. You would feel it pluss it would really want to pull to that side
I can try bedding the pads again to try and get rid of any build up...is that the best course of actio to remove bulid up?
I'm also doubtful that its a hang-up. The car doesn't pull at all. I checked into the warranty and its 500 miles, so that's out.
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Originally Posted by ou sig
wow that is bad. anyone else with these rotors have problems? I have been wanting a new brake setup for a long time now, and was going to buy some soon...dont want to mess with warped rotors again thats for sure